11 Derm-Approved Methods To Treat Lip Hyperpigmentation - Byrdie

If your lips have started looking darker, more uneven in tone, or a different shade than usual, you might be dealing with lip hyperpigmentation. This can occur when melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color, builds up in the lips, leading to discoloration. From sun damage to fluctuating hormone levels, there are a surprising number of reasons this can happen.

Curious to learn more about what causes lip hyperpigmentation and how to treat it? Keep reading for a science-backed breakdown with expertise shared by board-certified dermatologists Tia Paul, MD, and Anetta Reszko, MD.

Meet the Experts

• Suchismita (Tia) Paul, MD, is a California-based board-certified dermatologist at Balanced Skin Dermatology and Aesthetics.
• Anetta Reszko, MD, board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.

What It Is

Lip hyperpigmentation is a common condition where parts of the lips become darker than their natural tone. It happens when there's an excess of a pigment called melanin. "It can present as flat, smooth patches, or a generalized deepening of color and may range from light brown to deep brown, bluish, or purplish hues, depending on the underlying cause and skin tone," Reszko says.

Reszko points out that hyperpigmentation can present differently depending on whether it's on the pink or red part of the lip (known as the vermillion) or the skin above the lip, which is called the cutaneous upper lip. "Discoloration of the vermilion typically results in uneven lip color and loss of the natural pink or red tones, often accompanied by darker patches at the corners or inner lips," she says. "In contrast, pigmentation of the cutaneous upper lip is commonly due to chronic sun exposure, hormonal fluctuations, melasma, or irritation from hair removal methods such as waxing, which can trigger post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in sensitive or melanin-rich skin."

Causes

Lip hyperpigmentation can occur for many reasons, ranging from sun exposure to smoking. Here are some common causes:

• Sun exposure: Sun exposure is a common cause of lip hyperpigmentation. "Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure without sun protection can lead to increased melanin production in the lips," says Reszko.
• Post-inflammatory reactions: "The discoloration could be due to post-inflammatory changes, meaning hyperpigmentation after skin irritation from chapped lips, burns, or allergic reactions [from things like] lip balms and toothpaste," Paul says. This could even happen following waxing or other hair-removal procedures.
• Fluctuating hormone levels: Changing hormone levels throughout the menstrual cycle, during pregnancy, or while taking oral contraceptives can contribute to lip hyperpigmentation.
• Reactions to medications: Medications such as antimalarials, chemotherapy, or minocycline can sometimes contribute to lip hyperpigmentation.
• Medical conditions: In some cases, underlying health conditions can cause lip hyperpigmentation. For example, Addison's disease can increase melanin production, leading to darkened skin, while Peutz-Jeghers syndrome causes dark, pigmented spots on the lips and mouth.
• Smoking: "Smoking is a common cause [of lip hyperpigmentation] due to the stimulating effects of nicotine and irritants that trigger melanin production," Reszko says.
• Genetics: "Genetics play a role as well, and certain skin tones—[particularly] those with darker skin—are naturally more prone to lip hyperpigmentation," Paul says.

Prevention

Now that you know what causes lip hyperpigmentation, you may be wondering if it's possible to prevent it from occurring in the first place. According to Paul, the best place to start is by wearing lip balm that contains SPF every day, and to avoid any lip products that tend to irritate your skin or are known to cause irritation or allergic reactions. "It is also critical to hydrate the lips with non-irritating emollients to prevent dryness and inflammation," she says. "[And] it's best to avoid licking the lips or biting/picking to avoid constant inflammation and hyperpigmentation."

Treatment

Lip hyperpigmentation treatments vary depending on the severity of the hyperpigmentation and the cause. Ultimately, treatment should be individualized, especially among people with darker skin. This individualization is important for avoiding complications like post-treatment hyperpigmentation or irritation.

"Mild to moderate cases may respond to topical agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, and retinoids," Reszko says. "These ingredients work by either inhibiting melanin synthesis or accelerating cell turnover to gradually fade the pigmentation." In cases where lip hyperpigmentation is more severe or persistent, treatment options include chemical peels, laser resurfacing, or intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy.

The Final Takeaway

Often, lip hyperpigmentation isn't anything major to worry about. It could be a reaction to the sun, dryness, or other habits that are fairly easy to address. But it can also occur because of medication reactions, medical conditions, and more. Whether your lip hyperpigmentation is caused by UV exposure, hormones, or a medical condition, understanding why it's happening is an important first step toward effective treatment. And remember: It's always a good idea to check in with a dermatologist.