2009 Santa Fe B1346 / B1481 Air Bag Codes And Clockspring ...

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CM (2007-2012) Santa Fe

Torgo T I don’t post here often, but I didn’t find a simple summary for this, just different bits and pieces in other threads, so I’ll outline this in case it’s useful to someone else. I own a 2009 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L V6. My Air Bag light came on. I only had a basic OBD-II scanner that couldn’t read the SRS codes, so I bought a better one, a Launch Creader 619. The codes came back: B1346 and B1481 which are high resistance faults in the first and second stages of the air bag. They were active and did not clear – light stayed on. From the other pieces of information I was able to collect, it looked like the most likely culprit was the clockspring. I did some checking and decided to buy an aftermarket clockspring on eBay for about $10. As I’ll explain in a bit, it wasn’t a direct replacement, but with a little modification, it worked out OK. Tools needed: T40 bit or screwdriver Small flat head jewelers screwdriver 22mm socket and ratchet for steering wheel nut Magic marker 8mm nut driver Small flat head screwdriver Sorry I don’t have pictures to better illustrate, but here’s an outline of the steps required. 1) Remove ( - ) terminal of battery, wait ~10 minutes. 2) There are two airbag retention bolts on the left and right side of the steering wheel. Loosen fully with the T40 tool. 3) Pop off the air bag from the steering wheel. Don’t pull too hard, just wiggle a bit and work to separate. Once released, hold with 2-3 inches of clearance since cables have to be removed. 4) Disconnect both air bag cables from the air bag. They are retained with yellow locking tabs – use the jewelers screw driver to lift them up first, and the connectors will pull out from the air bag easily. Disconnect the GND connection from the air bag. The air bag is now fully disconnected and can be set aside until reassembly. 5) Remove the connector for the steering wheel controls from the bottom left of the clock spring. 6) Before popping the steering wheel off at this point, make sure the tires are straight and mark the shaft, nut, and the steering wheel. I didn’t have any problem maintaining the orientation during reassembly, but it’s an easy, extra sanity check to add. 7) Remove the steering wheel nut with the 22mm socket and ratchet. This may require a little torque to break the seat, and you may have to hold the steering wheel in place as you do this so it doesn’t actually turn the shaft. Once it’s off, there’s also a locking washer under it to remove as well. 8) Give the steering wheel a couple of gentle whacks around its circumference, and it should pop it off easily. Double check the air bag connectors before yanking, and release any retaining clips, just to make sure you don’t pull any cable connections along with the steering wheel. 9) To fully access the clockspring, you’ll need to remove or loosen the top and bottom plastics around the steering column. There are 5 bolts/screws – 2 in the front, 3 from below. Remove these and remember their locations. Separate the two plastic parts – they’re retained with some interlocking tabs – and you’ll now have easy access to the clockspring. 10) Remove all the cables from the bottom of the clockspring – there are 3 total. 11) Now you can remove the clockspring itself. There are three tabs – two plastic ones on the bottom half, and a metal one at the top. There are two plastic alignment holes as well. Using the small flat head screw driver to release the bottom two plastic tabs will allow you to slide off the clockspring from the steering column. Now, at this point, I needed to do a couple of things to the new clockspring: 1) First of all, there’s a hall sensor clipped to the back of the clockspring for monitoring the steering wheel angle. It has one of the 3 cable connections. You’ll need to unclip this from the original clockspring and transfer it to the new clockspring. There are a couple of orientation tabs that will line up. 2) The biggest issue was the aftermarket clockspring only had one airbag connector, not two as required for this 2-stage air bag. So I ended up de-soldering the two air bag connector cables from the original one, along with the one on the new clockspring, and then soldered the two original ones onto the new one. The important thing to highlight is that the new clockspring itself was standard and had the internal connections for both cables, but only one had been solder to it. I double-checked the connections and used an multimeter to confirm all four of the connection points through the new clockspring – all was good. I also noticed that sure enough, the new clock spring showed a few ohms less resistance than the original one on these connections. Now it was time for reassembly, which is more or less the reverse of the above steps. One of the 3 connectors going back on the new clockspring was a little sticky, but a little extra effort took care of that. Everything else was straightforward putting it back together. It was time for the moment of truth – started the car and the air bag light was still on. I was a little disappointed at this point, but I put back on the scanner and took a look. Codes were still there, but there was a big difference, instead of being active they were now shown as “history.” So I cleared them, and unlike before, they cleared and didn’t reappear. Since then, the air bag light turns on when starting the car as it’s supposed to, but it goes out and stays out. Total cost for parts, including the higher-end scanner, ran me about $80. If you have the tools already, the only part I actually bought for the repair was the clockspring which was $10 on eBay. But it did required a modification for the 2-stage air bag connectors. Total time, outside of the clockspring modification to access and reassemble was an hour or so. Overall a pretty easy job. The estimate from the dealer to diagnose and fix was ~$500. #1 · Jan 23, 2019 I don’t post here often, but I didn’t find a simple summary for this, just different bits and pieces in other threads, so I’ll outline this in case it’s useful to someone else. I own a 2009 Santa Fe GLS 2.7L V6. My Air Bag light came on. I only had a basic OBD-II scanner that couldn’t read the SRS codes, so I bought a better one, a Launch Creader 619. The codes came back: B1346 and B1481 which are high resistance faults in the first and second stages of the air bag. They were active and did not clear – light stayed on. From the other pieces of information I was able to collect, it looked like the most likely culprit was the clockspring. I did some checking and decided to buy an aftermarket clockspring on eBay for about $10. As I’ll explain in a bit, it wasn’t a direct replacement, but with a little modification, it worked out OK. Tools needed: T40 bit or screwdriver Small flat head jewelers screwdriver 22mm socket and ratchet for steering wheel nut Magic marker 8mm nut driver Small flat head screwdriver Sorry I don’t have pictures to better illustrate, but here’s an outline of the steps required. 1) Remove ( - ) terminal of battery, wait ~10 minutes. 2) There are two airbag retention bolts on the left and right side of the steering wheel. Loosen fully with the T40 tool. 3) Pop off the air bag from the steering wheel. Don’t pull too hard, just wiggle a bit and work to separate. Once released, hold with 2-3 inches of clearance since cables have to be removed. 4) Disconnect both air bag cables from the air bag. They are retained with yellow locking tabs – use the jewelers screw driver to lift them up first, and the connectors will pull out from the air bag easily. Disconnect the GND connection from the air bag. The air bag is now fully disconnected and can be set aside until reassembly. 5) Remove the connector for the steering wheel controls from the bottom left of the clock spring. 6) Before popping the steering wheel off at this point, make sure the tires are straight and mark the shaft, nut, and the steering wheel. I didn’t have any problem maintaining the orientation during reassembly, but it’s an easy, extra sanity check to add. 7) Remove the steering wheel nut with the 22mm socket and ratchet. This may require a little torque to break the seat, and you may have to hold the steering wheel in place as you do this so it doesn’t actually turn the shaft. Once it’s off, there’s also a locking washer under it to remove as well. 8) Give the steering wheel a couple of gentle whacks around its circumference, and it should pop it off easily. Double check the air bag connectors before yanking, and release any retaining clips, just to make sure you don’t pull any cable connections along with the steering wheel. 9) To fully access the clockspring, you’ll need to remove or loosen the top and bottom plastics around the steering column. There are 5 bolts/screws – 2 in the front, 3 from below. Remove these and remember their locations. Separate the two plastic parts – they’re retained with some interlocking tabs – and you’ll now have easy access to the clockspring. 10) Remove all the cables from the bottom of the clockspring – there are 3 total. 11) Now you can remove the clockspring itself. There are three tabs – two plastic ones on the bottom half, and a metal one at the top. There are two plastic alignment holes as well. Using the small flat head screw driver to release the bottom two plastic tabs will allow you to slide off the clockspring from the steering column. Now, at this point, I needed to do a couple of things to the new clockspring: 1) First of all, there’s a hall sensor clipped to the back of the clockspring for monitoring the steering wheel angle. It has one of the 3 cable connections. You’ll need to unclip this from the original clockspring and transfer it to the new clockspring. There are a couple of orientation tabs that will line up. 2) The biggest issue was the aftermarket clockspring only had one airbag connector, not two as required for this 2-stage air bag. So I ended up de-soldering the two air bag connector cables from the original one, along with the one on the new clockspring, and then soldered the two original ones onto the new one. The important thing to highlight is that the new clockspring itself was standard and had the internal connections for both cables, but only one had been solder to it. I double-checked the connections and used an multimeter to confirm all four of the connection points through the new clockspring – all was good. I also noticed that sure enough, the new clock spring showed a few ohms less resistance than the original one on these connections. Now it was time for reassembly, which is more or less the reverse of the above steps. One of the 3 connectors going back on the new clockspring was a little sticky, but a little extra effort took care of that. Everything else was straightforward putting it back together. It was time for the moment of truth – started the car and the air bag light was still on. I was a little disappointed at this point, but I put back on the scanner and took a look. Codes were still there, but there was a big difference, instead of being active they were now shown as “history.” So I cleared them, and unlike before, they cleared and didn’t reappear. Since then, the air bag light turns on when starting the car as it’s supposed to, but it goes out and stays out. Total cost for parts, including the higher-end scanner, ran me about $80. If you have the tools already, the only part I actually bought for the repair was the clockspring which was $10 on eBay. But it did required a modification for the 2-stage air bag connectors. Total time, outside of the clockspring modification to access and reassemble was an hour or so. Overall a pretty easy job. The estimate from the dealer to diagnose and fix was ~$500. See less See more Insert Quotes Post Reply

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