Best/Easiest Way To Remove A Lacquer Finish?

• Forums New posts
• Photo Gallery New media New comments
• What's new Featured content New posts New media New media comments New resources Latest activity
• Resources Latest reviews
• Members Registered members Current visitors
• AAW Main Site

Log in Register What's new

• New posts

Menu Log in Register Install the app Install How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

• Congratulations to Bernie Hyrtzak, People's Choice in the January 2026 Turning Challenge (click here for details)
• Congratulations to David Croxton for "Geri's Basket Illusion" being selected as Turning of the Week for February 2, 2026 (click here for details)
• AAW Symposium demonstrators announced - If the 2026 AAW International Woodturning Symposium is not on your calendar, now is the time to register. And there are discounts available if you sign up early, by Feb. 28. Early Bird pricing gives you the best rate for our 40th Anniversary Symposium in Raleigh, North Carolina, June 4–7, 2026. (There are discounts for AAW chapter members too) For more information vist the discussion thread here or the AAW registration page
• Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

• Forums
• Woodturning Forums
• Woodturning Discussion Forum

You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Best/Easiest way to remove a lacquer finish?

• Thread starter Thread starter Grey Darrah
• Start date Start date Feb 7, 2019

Grey Darrah

Joined May 6, 2018 Messages 74 Likes 28 Location Cartersville, GA I've got a large-ish (12" tall by about 10" diameter) HF that I put 9 coats of lacquer on, let cure for 2 months, then sanded back a bit and polished. It's got issues...a number of areas with blushing (it's a real problem here in the humid southeast) and a number of small areas that got over sanded down to the wood. I want to get rid of the lacquer and finish it in oil or wipe on poly (haven't decided yet). Is sanding it down the best way to go, or is there a chemical option that would be quicker? My only hesitation in sanding is that I already have the wood sanded to 2000 grit. I'm guessing that to sand off the lacquer, I'm probably going to need to go at it with something like 120 and then work my way through all the grits again. Thanks, Grey Semper Fi

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert

Joined Apr 26, 2004 Messages 8,719 Likes 4,806 Location Cookeville, TN lacquer thinner will remove most of it. You might need to use a small brush to get it out of any pores or cracks. Then sand. then you will be good to go. Are you spraying your lacquer, brushing, or wipe on. I find a bit a retarder works well for my spray finishes. I have been using minwax wipe on poly for the last year and really like it. I still use lacquer when I need a really thick glossy finish but I really like the gloss that I get from a few coats of minwax followed by the Bealle buffing system. And I'm in Middle Tennessee and know about the humidity problems. R

Richard Coers

Joined Aug 14, 2009 Messages 2,718 Likes 1,817 Location Peoria, Illinois I find wipe on poly more difficult to apply than lacquer. Most people apply several coats of shellac first, then the poly. What you did in a couple of days with lacquer will take a week with wipe on poly. Since poly dries slower, you'll have to sand it when done to remove dust nits and imperfections as well. Then if you want to buff it, you have to wait longer than with the lacquer since poly stays soft for a longer period of time.

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert

Joined Apr 26, 2004 Messages 8,719 Likes 4,806 Location Cookeville, TN Wipe on poly dries very quickly. You obviously dont get the build of several.coats of lacquer but it leaves a beautiful finish after buffing. I get lots of compliments on my finishing. I do use lacquer when I want that thicker look.

Grey Darrah

Joined May 6, 2018 Messages 74 Likes 28 Location Cartersville, GA I've never used lacquer thinner to take dried lacquer off of something. What's the process...just soak a few paper towels and start rubbing? Thanks, Grey Semper Fi

Steve Bonny

Joined Feb 12, 2014 Messages 176 Likes 729 Location Waterloo IA You can use paint stripper on lacquer also. I use it on guitars to just strip a small area I want to glue. You just slop it on, wait 10 minutes and scrape it off with a cabinet scraper or similar. Wash it after with water to get rid of the stripper residue which is acidic. I would re-sand after this 220 up to whatever you want.

Steve Bonny

Joined Feb 12, 2014 Messages 176 Likes 729 Location Waterloo IA Note also, with your original post with worm holes, with lacquer you can drop fill the holes. Just drip a tiny blob of lacquer in the hole off of a tooth pick or tiny brush. Repeat until the lacquer is proud of the surface and then sand locally down to the surface, spray a coat or 2 over the top, allow it all to cure and then start your sanding / polishing.

Mark Wollschlager

Joined Jul 28, 2005 Messages 391 Likes 125 Location Alexandria, VA When I have used lacquer thinner to remove a bad finish I have found a couple of things the hard way. Depending on the type of wood it may also remove color ( extractives in the wood that are soluble in thinner ). Lacquer thinner is Nasty, wear a respirator rated for that type of chemical, or have ample fresh air. I always recoated with lacquer after I removed the defective finish. I am not sure if any residue soaked into the wood will effect another type of finish ( oil or poly ) Mark Wollschlager

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert

Joined Apr 26, 2004 Messages 8,719 Likes 4,806 Location Cookeville, TN To go one step further on spot filling holes with lacquer thinner, I use a razor blade first to get the hardened dot close to flush with the surface. Then it's easy to sand level. If you just try sanding it to level its too easy to sand through the finish around the dot. Sometimes I'll use a file after the razor to really get close to level before final sanding.

Bryan Lisowski

Joined Jan 12, 2019 Messages 17 Likes 2 Location South River, New Jersey If you used something other than lacquer when you polished, thinner and sanding is best. However, lacquer will burn into previous coats, so you may be able to salvage without taking it off. I would spray another coat, then sand after it dries (not months), if you see improvement repeat, if not then take it off. A

Arkriver

Joined Jan 18, 2006 Messages 101 Likes 50 Location Pueblo West, CO maybe I broke some rule, but I have used lacquer sanding sealer and then used Antique Oil over it with no problem. In the case of maple it seems to help keep the white color. I have also used shellac as a base cot but have had problems buff though the top coat of Antique Oil. Allyn You must log in or register to reply here. Share: Facebook X Bluesky LinkedIn Reddit Pinterest Tumblr WhatsApp Email Share Link

• Forums
• Woodturning Forums
• Woodturning Discussion Forum

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Back Top