Blue Grass Seed Information & Techniques

Note: If you are simply trying to “fill in your existing lawn”, do a soil sample and feed your existing lawn first. Iowa is literally the grasslands of the United States, if grasses are underperforming in an Iowa lawn it is almost always due to lack of nutrients, compacted soils, or insufficient sunlight. Ignoring any of those three issues will result in poorly performing grass, whether it is an existing lawn, sod, or new seed.

It is also important to keep in mind that it can be difficult to match grass types to established lawns and if you don’t want a “patchwork” look in your yard, it is better to work with what you already have! This is a big reason why we do NOT recommend overseeding lawns “to thicken them up”.

That said, sodding isn’t the perfect solution for all budgets for all projects. To ensure the greatest chances of a successful seeding, it is important to have a proper understanding of the work and maintenance involved. If you use top quality products and you aren’t afraid of some elbow grease, (and if Mother Nature plays nicely too) seeding can result in a beautiful lawn.

First, buy high quality seed. If you look closely at the label of cheap seed from most hardware or big box stores, you will notice that specific cultivars are not labeled (meaning that there is no chance you will be able to know if your seed will match your lawn) and a typical germination rate will usually be around 60%.

At Blue Grass, we sell top sod quality seed that has been subjected to rigorous university and impartial third party research. From this research, we select elite cultivars that have been bred for disease and insect resistance, drought, wear and shade tolerance, slow growth rate (for less mowing), and uniformity in color and texture. The three blends of seed we carry here all have germination rates of 90% or higher. This is why we recommend such a light seeding rate, because a little of our seed goes a long way. Additionally, our seed has passed the strictest weed seed regulations in the country. Fewer weed seeds means fewer problems for you in the early stages of your lawn’s life!

How Do I Seed?

Remember, any time you are working with seeds from any plant, you need to think of yourself like a farmer. This means that sometimes your projects will go well (nice rains and lovely temps), and sometimes they won’t (unexpected monsoons, droughts, scorching temps). There is only so much you can control, but, there are things you can do to help make your gamble have some better chances for success!

We have often joked with customers that if seeding were easy, there wouldn’t have been a need for sod farms, but here we are. Just remember that if your seeding project doesn’t go well, we are here and you can sod any time of year - so your project can get done, even if Mother Nature doesn’t play nicely with you!

Here are our recommendations for the best seeding techniques:

1. SEED-TO-SOIL CONTACT

Soil should be worked up as well as you can, at least to a depth of three to four inches. Your goal is to alleviate any compaction in the area and ensure good drainage in the future, which will help you avoid future lawn diseases.

We recommend rototilling to reduce any clodding. If the soil is already prepared, rake to level the area and remove any rocks. Grass seed can be spread with the same equipment used to spread fertilizer, or by hand for small areas. The seed should be divided into two lots. Spread the second lot at right angles to the first. To ensure good seed-to-soil contact, the areas should be lightly raked, raking too hard will redistribute the seed and also plant it too deep. The average depth should be between 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Once this has been completed the area should be lightly rolled to ensure good soil contact.

2. ADEQUATE SOIL MOISTURE

Hopefully, Mother Nature will aid you in keeping the seedbed moist. However, you should be prepared to help. Improper watering is probably the biggest factor that causes new lawns to fail. For seeds to properly germinate, the top layer of the soil must not be allowed to dry out. After planting, saturate the lawn to almost puddling. After this point light and frequent sprinklings will be needed, the surface must not be allowed to dry out until the lawn is well established. If it is extremely warm or windy, more frequent watering will be needed. Once the lawn is long enough to mow, reduce your watering to once or twice a week, as conditions dictate.

3. ADEQUATE SOIL TEMPERATURES

Most cool-season grasses germinate when the SOIL TEMPERATURES reach about 50 degrees. In Iowa, this typically happens in May. Any seeding done prior to soil temperatures of 50 degrees will lay dormant until they reach this point. Generally for fall seeding, seed no later than September 15 to ensure fall germination. For dormant seeding, the dormant seeding will lay idle until soil temperatures are consistent with germinating at the first available time frame that following spring. Read more about dormant seeding techniques here.

4. ADEQUATE SOIL NUTRIENTS

The grass seed itself has enough “food” or nutrients to germinate and send out a root. However, the reason the seed has sent out a root is in search of food, so it is important to maintain an adequate supply of nutrients at all times. Use a STARTER fertilizer when seeding. A starter fertilizer contains phosphorus which is a critical nutrient for root development. Starter fertilizers are typically entirely consumed within about three weeks, so you may need to feed the area multiple times until full establishment has occurred. Once established begin a regularly scheduled fertility program and enjoy the benefits of a healthy lawn.

Frequently Asked Questions

Author’s note: I adapted this section from a FAQ section I stumbled across online earlier this year that contained advice that was really inappropriate for Iowa soils, weather, and grasses.

Tiny sod farmer soap box: Always remember that anyone in the world can put anything on the internet - so look critically at the content you are reading and ask if the solutions being presented really make sense for you and where you live. When you are working with plants, it is important to specify what species, soil types, and weather patterns you commonly are working with. Better yet, find experts you trust in your area and specifically follow their advice. This will be much more helpful to you than randomly Googling an unspecific topic and reading whatever pops up first.

Behold! Here is a good list of questions, modified for Iowa responses! Enjoy!

What Spreader Settings Should I Use?

Spreader settings can vary, depending on what grass seed type and spreader you are using. And frankly, grass seed is so itty-bitty that a tiny imperfection in the spreader can result in a major distribution issue. The best thing to do is to do some testing to see what setting gets you 10 seeds/square inch. This is a generous seeding rate. Resist the urge to add additional seed. When you add additional, unnecessary seed to a project you are simply introducing more competition in an area with limited resources. This will actually stunt the success of your project.

I Planted My Grass Seed and It Didn't Grow. What's Wrong?

Let’s face it, if getting grass seed to grow was easy there wouldn’t be sod farms. There are many things that could have happened. Too much or too little water, weather conditions, washing, use of weed control products, and/or poor soil conditions can all be possible causes.

Also, check the calendar before you panic. Master Blend, for example, can germinate in as few as 14 days or as many as 28 days, depending on weather and soil conditions. Nu Lawn and Dense Shade both will have germination times closer to 14 days.

Don’t panic, you may still be in an ideal planting window if you want to try again… Or, better yet, you can sod any time the ground isn’t frozen. <3