— CHEST BINDER TUTORIAL - Thendyn - Tumblr

CHEST BINDER TUTORIAL

Hey, I’m thendyn, and I make and sell custom-fitted binders. What this means is that I will make a binder to fit anyone, and now I’ve made a tutorial so that you can make one for yourself!

The binders are light, breathable, and are very easy to make - everything is done with straight lines, so as long as you can cut fabric and use a sewing machine you’ll be good to go!

(Tutorial starts under the cut)

Fabric: I generally make my binders from cotton, but any non-stretchy fabric should work so long as it’s comfortable and nice on your skin.

Step 1

DOWNLOAD THIS

This is a download of the spreadsheet table I use to find every measurement needed to make the binders - all you have to do is input your measurements to the top three boxes and let the spreadsheet do the calculations for you! To measure your underbust measure around under the breast, where the bra band would go. This measurement should be close to your band size. Length is simply how long/far down your chest you would like the binder to go - measure from the armpit down. The length itself it up to you. To measure the shoulder straps measure from on level with your armpit to the top middle of your shoulder. You can also measure over the shoulder and then half the resulting value.

Step 2

Measure and cut your fabric. Because the binder uses a double layer of fabric it’s important that you remember which way you’ll need to fold it to get it to be the length you want. If you can’t remember, measure both sides and see which one matches the second ‘Fabric’ measurement (On the inches table, this is cell E8)

Step 3

Fold the fabric in half, pin it, and sew along the long edge (the one you just folded in half). Don’t sew the short edges. The spreadsheet will give you about ½-inch seam allowance, so keep this in mind when sewing.

MAKE SURE YOU A LEAVE CENTIMETER OR SO UNSEWN AT EITHER END - this will be folded inside the fabric to make another seam for the elastic.

Step 4

a) Turn the fabric inside out and iron flat.

b) Open one end of the fabric and fold it inside about an inch or so to make a seam.

c) Iron the seam flat, and repeat on the other side. (With the seams ironed in, this folded fabric should be as long as half your underbust measurement )

Step 5

a) Cut the elastic to length - you will need six (6) strips, each the same length. (If your binder is quite long, maybe use five for each side instead, so ten (10) in total). The measurement on the spreadsheet is called 'back elastic length’, and will give you an inch seam allowance at either end.

b) Pin the elastic between the two layers of cotton (so in the seam-space you just ironed) at the top, middle and bottom of the binder. Then, sew two long lines running from top to bottom, ensuring that they go over the elastic strips - one should be close to the edge of the fabric, and one a centimeter or so further in

c) BECAUSE I UPDATED THIS TUTORIAL RECENTLY I DON’T YET HAVE AN IMAGE, BUT YOU SHOULD HAVE TWO SEWN LINES LIKE THE ONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PICTURE BELOW. Only, y’know, straight and not all wiggly. Hopefully that makes sense.

d) Repeat on the other side of the fabric.

Step 6

a) Now that the elastic is sewed into the fabric it’s time to attach the zip! Start by placing the zip in the middle of the fabric and then folding the edges slightly so that you can see where the ends of the elastic would be sewed to it - hold the elastic in place with your hands and measure between the edge of the zip and the seam of the fabric. Compare this length to the measurement called 'raw length’ and trim as needed.

b) Mark with pencil where the elastic will be sewed to the zip, then repeat with the other straps.

c) Sew the elastic on twice, like when sewing it to the fabric. This time, sew one length normally and other other using a wider stitch that crosses between the fabric of the zip and the elastic. This will make sure that the elastic does not fray when being washed.

d) Repeat with the other strips of elastic.

Your binder should look something like this by now:

Step 7

a) Measure and cut the lengths of the shoulder straps. I generally make mine out of a thinner elastic. The measurement is called 'shoulder elastic’ on the spreadsheet, and you will need two (2) of them. The spreadsheet is designed for top-of-shoulder-to-armpit length measurements. If you measured front-to-back, just half your measurement.

b) Align the zip so that it is dead center on the fabric, and measure about 2 inches out to either side of it. Mark these points on the top-most band of elastic. Use these to ensure that the two shoulder straps are the same distance apart from the zip and pin them in place. Remember, you have an inch seam allowance to use.

c) Sew the shoulder straps much like you did when attaching the elastic to the zip, but use two narrow sewed line things and once that crosses between the elastic of the back straps and the shoulder straps.

d) Turn the binder over and before steps a-c again, but this time place the straps an extra inch or so apart.

The binder should now look like this:

STEP WHATEVER

Celebrate! You just made yourself a binder!

Health & safety and washing.

Do not wear the binder for any longer than 8 hours AT MOST. Listen to your body. If it’s complaining, take it off.

Wash it on a gentle/delicate setting.

Thank you for reading my tutorial! Got questions? Drop by my ask box!