Do I Really Need To Burp The Coolant System? - IH8MUD Forum

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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. do i really need to burp the coolant system?

• Thread starter Thread starter rc51kid
• Start date Start date Jul 31, 2015

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rc51kid

10 Year 15 Year Joined May 31, 2010 Threads 690 Messages 2,799 i just dont get why this is needed? the fsm states to just refill, turn on heat,warm up and check levels. i filled the radiator. ran unill warm and kept topping off with heat on. filled overflow to proper level and drove it. once it cooled i had to add about 1/2 inch to overflow tank. i figure i will just keep chexking the level over the next few days. shouldnt any small air bubbles just work themselves out into the overflow tank as it heats and cools? temps look great right now on both dash and dig temp gauges.

IanB

10 Year 15 Year Joined Jan 23, 2010 Threads 55 Messages 4,512 Location Winnipeg, MB You should be fine doing it this way, as long as you drive with the heat cranked from time to time so any air in the heater core gets pushed out. '93 Land Cruiser HDJ81 VX LTD - 3x locked, OEM winch, ICON Stage 1, DEPO HID's, 285/75/16E Duratracs, armor, GTurbo, 3" exh, Webasto '04 Lexus GX470 - Tandem Charlies, 265/70/17 DuratracRT, Dobinsons 2F/1R springs/shocks, GX460 front brakes, 4300k HID '15 Lexus GX460 - '91 Land Cruiser HDJ81 VX LTD - 3X locked, OEM winch, OME 861/862, 285/75/16E Duratracs RIP '96 Hilux Surf SSR-G - RIP

inkpot

SILVER Star 10 Year 15 Year 20 Year Joined Jan 30, 2003 Threads 181 Messages 13,506 Location All over Arizona On all the rigs we work on, e never fiddle with the "burping". Do like you. Fill radiator and reservoir and drive. If cap is working, it will burp out air and suck in liquid. With a good amount off rpm, the rushing liquid will pick up any air bubbles/pockets an replace it with fluid by burping. 97 FZJ80, 3xlocked, 37" Cooper STT Pros , 4.88s, 5" lift, M12000, 76 FJ55, Safari Grade, SOLD, 85 Toyota mini truck -SOLD 72 FJ 40 -SOLD Tonto Recreation Alliance

Tedward

95 LC

SILVER Star 10 Year Joined Feb 2, 2015 Threads 45 Messages 1,254 Location Cleveland OH I think the "pinhole" that is in the 12o'clock position in the thermostat takes care of the air bleeding. I have filled the cooling system several times and not had any trouble. If ya want, fill rad and res, run till warm before you put the cap on. With the heat on of course. 95 LC. Just over 438,000. Second owner. fan of step #6

greentruck

SILVER Star 10 Year 15 Year Joined Aug 26, 2009 Threads 93 Messages 6,408 Location flat earth Midwest Admittedly, not absolutely necessary...but if you're having issues after a cooling system repair, it is the low-hanging fruit that helps rule out this part of the unknowns. I do it by force of habit, because I want my cooling system topped off before I do much more than test that it's not leaking in the driveway. In the wintertime, not such a big deal, but in the summer I just don't push my luck when it comes to to cooling system fill. It is, after all, a vehicle known to have a HG issue from time to time... The rear lines do cause issues if you don't know to turn on the heat. Even if you burp, if you don't turn the heat on it could still cause issues, so that's always a good reminder, burp or not. Last edited: Jul 31, 2015 Mike 96 LX 450 SheLex now CRASH TESTED 337k, ARB w/ Warn VR10k, TCC H-C Rear, 255/75 R16 KM3, 80 series alloys, Bowfin Cruisers rack & sliders, rear e-Locker, dual batteries/Hellroaring isolator w/ Blue Sea battery switch, 37-gallon LRA main tank, LRA 42 gallon Aux, OME 850/864 w/ Icons, CDL switch w/ 7-pin mod, Temp gauge mod, Odin-mounted Starlink, ARB Twin Air, IceCo 55 APL, Bluetti Charger 2 + Elite 100 v2 97 FZJ80 The Sacred Cow RIP M101 CDN, 255/85 R16 KM3, w/ custom fenders, 500 lb crane

LS1FJ40

SILVER Star 10 Year 15 Year 20 Year Joined Aug 9, 2005 Threads 139 Messages 8,873 Location Cedar Rapids, IA Why not do it? If I had a vehicle that is known to have HG issues with any overheating I would take the extra 15 minutes to try to prevent it from overheating. Allowing the radiator cap to vent while running the heat in should work. This of course assumes that you radiator cap is working properly. If it's not relatively new then I wouldn't count on it. And I would buy a new one. 92 FJ80 "LC" 252k mostly back to stock and going strong... 93 FZJ80 "Mollie" 348k, 3X Locked, Pin 7, Koso temp gauge, Trail Tailor sliders, Trail Tailor dual swing out rear, Trail Tailor INTI clone rack w/solar, dual battery system, fridge/freezer, vinyl flooring, 2" Tough Dog Lift, dorkel The thread I never thought I'd start... TLCA #15145 "You can pour beer in the fuel tank and urinate in the crank case and it will run for another 50K miles." Jon Held with regards to the 3FE.

rc51kid

10 Year 15 Year Joined May 31, 2010 Threads 690 Messages 2,799 i have to admit that maybe i dont know exactly what the "burping" is. i thought it was kind of involved. is it simply raising the front end while filling and having the heat turned on?

BILT4ME

10 Year Joined Nov 9, 2012 Threads 29 Messages 15,342 Location Olathe, KS, USA It is having the front end on ramps (or facing uphill on a really steep driveway), take the cap off, fill it, and run it until it is warm with heater valve to "hot". Rev it up a few times to help carry the bubbles. Fill the overflow tank with mix. Install the cap, drive it at highway speed Park it on the ramps or uphill overnight to let it cool completely. Fill the overflow tank and the radiator in the morning and you should be good to go. I did mine this way 3 times and it worked well. When I took it on its first 3 hour drive, it dropped again about 1 QT. Filled it up and it hasn't moved since. 1996 FZJ80, Unlocked, Stock w/ Chrome Package, Badlands 12K Winch, 285 Duratracs, CDL, Pin-7, BH3D Cupholders, OME 2.5" Heavy Springs & Shocks, WKOR Sliders ***Dis-use is harder on a car than mis-use. ***Fix a man's a truck and he will drive it for a while. Teach a man to work on his own truck and he will drive it for a lifetime and hopefully quit bothering you.

rc51kid

10 Year 15 Year Joined May 31, 2010 Threads 690 Messages 2,799 ok. i guess that is really about what i do except for the hill part. but i can see the advantage of raising the front if having trouble getting air out. good to know and thanks for the info.

greentruck

SILVER Star 10 Year 15 Year Joined Aug 26, 2009 Threads 93 Messages 6,408 Location flat earth Midwest Burping could easily be considered one of those odd OCD practices many 80 series owners practice. I actually went back and edited "will require" burping to "would suggest" burping in my. Burp if you must, as mom used to say Didn't mean to make it mandatory. I'd require it. Others would beg to differ That's OK. I learned my mechanicking on the farm. If you didn't get it fixed and keep it fixed, you walked. And "no, you can't take the whole tool chest with you because you're not sure about what you'll need, pick out something." So some of it is a little odd in its internal logic, but seems to get me home. Fastidious, as they say back home. At least I can't remember much walking...but I may just be getting old. BTW, doesn't need to be a big incline, but something that does promote bubbles rising, if present. A pair of average jackstands should suffice is it came down to it, but the driveway works in many case. Be sure and set those parking brakes, etc, though on those inclines. Mike 96 LX 450 SheLex now CRASH TESTED 337k, ARB w/ Warn VR10k, TCC H-C Rear, 255/75 R16 KM3, 80 series alloys, Bowfin Cruisers rack & sliders, rear e-Locker, dual batteries/Hellroaring isolator w/ Blue Sea battery switch, 37-gallon LRA main tank, LRA 42 gallon Aux, OME 850/864 w/ Icons, CDL switch w/ 7-pin mod, Temp gauge mod, Odin-mounted Starlink, ARB Twin Air, IceCo 55 APL, Bluetti Charger 2 + Elite 100 v2 97 FZJ80 The Sacred Cow RIP M101 CDN, 255/85 R16 KM3, w/ custom fenders, 500 lb crane T

TDavidson

10 Year Joined Oct 13, 2012 Threads 33 Messages 335 Location Fernie, BC I had no heat in the winter. Burped it and fixed. T

TDavidson

10 Year Joined Oct 13, 2012 Threads 33 Messages 335 Location Fernie, BC I had no heat in the winter. Burped it and fixed.

jonheld

10 Year 15 Year Joined Dec 8, 2006 Threads 455 Messages 13,037 Location New Jersey Website www.sdsysdesign.com I had to play around with my son's Honda Civic, but I replaced radiators in both the 3FE and 1FZ-FE without issues and both have rear heat. Never burped anything, parked on a mostly level driveway. Jon Held 1991 FJ80 "Lumbering White Rhino" sold to a good home 1997 LX450 "Creampuff" Buy your FJ80 FSM here: FSM Scans Gotham City Land Cruisers

Pin_Head

10 Year 15 Year 20 Year OG Joined Feb 6, 2002 Threads 29 Messages 15,435 Location OC, CA I don't know what a burping radiator is, so I just drink a beer and burp that.

Howard705

TLCA 5505

SILVER Star 10 Year Joined Feb 1, 2013 Threads 1 Messages 1,480 Location Central Illinois Lots of vehicles will trap air in the system-when it gets hot the coolant expands and pushes out into the overflow tank. Since the air goes to the top (where the hose attaches) it will be pushed out. When the coolant cools down to ambient it contracts and draws in from the bottom of the overflow tank-which is liquid. It will burp itself after several drive cycles. I always overfill the overflow tank if the system has been opened up for this reason.

rc51kid

10 Year 15 Year Joined May 31, 2010 Threads 690 Messages 2,799 i have had to add about 1 inch into the over flow a few times after driving it to get it up to full. today idrove it all day with the heat on. maybe burping would help this. the engine temps have been GREAT! 188-192 all day and 194 up steap Mt passes here in Yellowstone. it is only about 75 deg right now so my fingers are crossed that it will stay good when it is hotter. i really hope ii am adding coolant becoause there is just a liitle air trapped. the bad thing would be that it got hot when i broke the last rad and now i am leaking coolant into the cylinders. but it just runs great. so hopefully it is not that. PS is it normal to have just a LITTLE pressure in a cold rad? this morning when i added a little coolant to the overflow i also looked under the rad cap. the fluid was full to the tippy top and i heard a little "pop" when i took it off and a few drops popped out. this was a cold engine.

Howard705

TLCA 5505

SILVER Star 10 Year Joined Feb 1, 2013 Threads 1 Messages 1,480 Location Central Illinois The radiator cap is a combination pressure relief valve/check valve. Its going to be very easy to have slightly different pressures in the radiator compared to outside depending on how the engine core temp compared to ambient or probably even a change in barometric pressure.

BILT4ME

10 Year Joined Nov 9, 2012 Threads 29 Messages 15,342 Location Olathe, KS, USA

rc51kid said: i have had to add about 1 inch into the over flow a few times after driving it to get it up to full. today idrove it all day with the heat on. maybe burping would help this. the engine temps have been GREAT! 188-192 all day and 194 up steap Mt passes here in Yellowstone. it is only about 75 deg right now so my fingers are crossed that it will stay good when it is hotter. i really hope ii am adding coolant becoause there is just a liitle air trapped. the bad thing would be that it got hot when i broke the last rad and now i am leaking coolant into the cylinders. but it just runs great. so hopefully it is not that. PS is it normal to have just a LITTLE pressure in a cold rad? this morning when i added a little coolant to the overflow i also looked under the rad cap. the fluid was full to the tippy top and i heard a little "pop" when i took it off and a few drops popped out. this was a cold engine. Click to expand...

Yes that's the way it should be. Sounds like you got it burped out..... 1996 FZJ80, Unlocked, Stock w/ Chrome Package, Badlands 12K Winch, 285 Duratracs, CDL, Pin-7, BH3D Cupholders, OME 2.5" Heavy Springs & Shocks, WKOR Sliders ***Dis-use is harder on a car than mis-use. ***Fix a man's a truck and he will drive it for a while. Teach a man to work on his own truck and he will drive it for a lifetime and hopefully quit bothering you.

bicycleagent003

10 Year Joined Apr 9, 2013 Threads 232 Messages 2,107 I didn't burp my system when I redid all the hoses and flushed everything. It works fine. I figured it was a Mud OCD thing. 1996 Night Shadow Pearl FZJ80 / 267K On The Clock and Counting / 3X LOCKED / Hi and Lo Range DIY TC Regear / Dob's 2" Springs with Spacers, and IMS Shocks/ Slee Short Bus Bumper / Super Winch Tiger Shark 9500SR Winch / OPOR Sliders / BFG TA KO2 33's / Dometic 55 Fridge and Slide/ Intermediate Level Wrencher and Off Road Driver / Usually Trying to Get Lost In the Sierras or the CA Desert Somewhere

greentruck

SILVER Star 10 Year 15 Year Joined Aug 26, 2009 Threads 93 Messages 6,408 Location flat earth Midwest

BILT4ME said: Yes that's the way it should be. Sounds like you got it burped out..... Click to expand...

Agreed. And that's all burping does, get you to this point faster -- so you can worry about what else might be going on. If you prefer the patience is best method, that's cool, too, but its psychological torture for me to play that waiting game. rc51, If you're still worried about a HG failure or something else, they do make test kits for that, if it helps your peace of mind, since we are talking about that almost as much as the mechanical side of this fix now. Or just check under the oil cap for signs of the milkshake effect. Do keep a close eye on temps until you've proven to yourself she's ready for that. Mike 96 LX 450 SheLex now CRASH TESTED 337k, ARB w/ Warn VR10k, TCC H-C Rear, 255/75 R16 KM3, 80 series alloys, Bowfin Cruisers rack & sliders, rear e-Locker, dual batteries/Hellroaring isolator w/ Blue Sea battery switch, 37-gallon LRA main tank, LRA 42 gallon Aux, OME 850/864 w/ Icons, CDL switch w/ 7-pin mod, Temp gauge mod, Odin-mounted Starlink, ARB Twin Air, IceCo 55 APL, Bluetti Charger 2 + Elite 100 v2 97 FZJ80 The Sacred Cow RIP M101 CDN, 255/85 R16 KM3, w/ custom fenders, 500 lb crane

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