Growing & Care - Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm
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1.) Bulbs should be planted in locations with partial to full sun. The soil warms quickly in these areas, so the flowers do not have to spend extra energy looking for light. Partial shade is acceptable for most shorter types, whereas the taller varieties will stretch (growing long and spindly) and be prone to falling over. The extra energy spent looking for light also makes them more susceptible to disease and less likely to bloom again. Planting under evergreens is not advisable as there is usually not enough light in the spring for the bulbs to grow. For hot climates, check with your local garden center.
Note: Each garden contains its own microclimate. Bulbs planted against the southern side of your house may bloom up to a week earlier than the same ones planted on the north side. Bulbs planted in dense shade may be twice as tall as those planted in full sun. Cities tend to be warmer than rural areas. Bulbs planted by a warm sidewalk may be pushed out of the ground earlier due to the warmth absorbed by the concrete. Early shoot growth in the fall doesn’t seem to affect the bulbs’ ability to bloom in the spring.
2.) Plant in well-drained, fertile soil. Too much water will drown the bulbs. Bulbs need air in the soil. Most bulbs will rot in standing water, so we recommend you avoid areas prone to flooding such as at the bottom of hills or especially under drainpipes. Raised beds can improve drainage. Be sure to raise them high enough, so when planted, they are above the soil line where the water sits. Avoid peat moss because it retains too much moisture during the winter. The pH level of the soil should be 7.0 so the plants can take up nutrients better. Lime can be added to soil that is acidic in order to raise the pH.
3.) Dig a hole a few inches deeper and wider than the bulbs you are planting. Tulip and daffodils are usually planted 6-8 inches deep and 2-3 inches apart. Officially spring blooming bulbs are planted 2.5 times deeper than the bulb is wide.


4.) Place bulb fertilizer in the bottom per package directions. Be sure it is not high in nitrogen. We use a 4-12-12. Cover the fertilizer with a little soil to avoid the bulbs coming in direct contact.
5.) Plant the bulbs. The brown outer covering of a tulip is called a tunic. This often protects the bulb early in the summer but by the time we ship the bulbs to you, these have broken off or cracked. This doesn’t hurt the bulb and actually makes it easier for the bulb to root. Place the bulbs in the hole with the tip up and cover with soil. This is the pointed end where the shoot will emerge. The base, where the roots will emerge, often appears as a round, flat area. Gravitropism is a big word that means your bulbs are internally programmed so that the roots grow down, and the shoots up! So, relax if you think your 3-year-old planted them upside down, the bulbs will figure it out. The only exception is Hyacinths… they will grow upside down if you plant them with the point side down.
6.) Lightly water after planting unless it has already started to rain, and the soil is moist. This helps the bulbs to send out their roots before winter. For some bulbs, like daffodils, the roots need to be well established before the ground freezes in winter.
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