Hakama - Japanese Traditional Clothing

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Overview

The Hakama is a pleated pants/skirt garment that was historically worn by samurai during the Heian (794c.e.-1185c.e.) and Edo period (1603c.e.- 1868c.e.). The modern Hakama is worn in a variety of Japanese sports, at Shinto shrines by female caretakers, and by females at graduationceremonies.

Appearance

The Hakama comes in two distinct styles “Umanori” and “AndonBakama.” The Umanori style, translating directly into “horse riding” were traditionally worn by samurai in order to protect their legs while riding on horses. The style was maintained even when samurai became foot soldiers because it was an identifier of the profession. Umanori style Hakama can be distinguished from the other style by the split of the legs. Andon Bakama do not have this split that divides the legs, making it more similar to a skirt. This style of Hakama is easily worn over a Kimono. Hakama can be made of cotton or a stiff silk. Modern Hakama are also created using synthetic textiles because of their ability to hold pleats, which is a significant aspect of the garment. Hakama can come in many colors, but typically are produced in darker colors, especially men’s Hakama. The most common color and style for men’s Hakama are black, white, and navy, with a solid or striped pattern. Hakama didn’t become available for women to wear until the Meiji period (1868c.e.-1912c.e.), with the abolishment of samurai class. Women attending college wore Hakama, and it eventually came to be recognized as a uniform. The typical colors of these Hakama were maroon or purple. Since they are worn over kimono or other garments, Hakama are typically solid colors with subtle designs or embroidery.

History

The origins of the Hakama date back to the Heian period (794c.e.-1185c.e.), however the style of the garment originated from the Chinese Sui and Tang dynasties. The garment was worn mostly by samurai, as a distinguishing feature of the warrior-class. During formal visits to the Shogun, Samurai would wear a formal form of the Hakama as part of an outfit known as the Kamishimo. Hakama part of the Kamishimo were known as Nagabakama because “it was about 12-15 feet long and was folded repeatedly and placed between the feet and posterior of the visitor. This necessitated shikko (“knee walking”) as their only approach for their audience, and made it extremely unlikely that they could hide a weapon or rise quickly to make an attack.” (Griffith, 2011). Nagabakama are now worn in a performative context, specifically Noh and Kabuki plays, as well as occasionally for formal shrine ceremonies. During the Meiji restoration, Hakama disappeared from everyday life, becoming more of a formal item.

Cultural Context

Hakama today can be seen in contexts of a uniform; Hakama worn as sports uniforms, Hakama worn at Shinto shrines, Hakama worn for performance, and Hakama worn at formal celebrations. “hakama is the uniform worn in traditional Japanese martial arts sports, such as kendo, aikido, iaido, and Japanese archery Kyudou. In addition, the hakama is also worn by Kabuki and Noh actors, Shinto priests, and female assistants at shrines.” (Chéron, E. J., e.t al., 2009) While Hakama are typically seen in darker colors, Hakama worn by Miko (shrine maidens) are bright red.

How to Wear Hakama

Meaning Of Hakama Folds

1. The folding of a Hakama exhibits an important aspect of martial arts. There are seven pleats when folding a Hakama which symbolize the seven virtues of bushido.
   1. Yuki = courage, valor, bravery
   2. Jin = humanity, charity, benevolence
   3. Gi = justice, righteousness, integrity
   4. Rei = etiquette, courtesy, civility (also means bow/obeisance)
   5. Makoto = sincerity, honesty, reality
   6. Chugi = loyalty, fidelity, devotion
   7. Meiyo = honor, credit, glory; also, reputation, dignity, prestige

Citations

Chéron, E. J., & Pau, R. C. (2009). Effects of contextual congruence in advertising execution: The case of Japanese culture-bound products. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 21(4), 285-297.

Griffith Aikido., (18 May, 2011), The hakama, its origins and who wears it, retrieved from http://griffithaikido.com.au/the-hakama-its-origins-and-who-wears-it/

References

• http://griffithaikido.com.au/the-hakama-its-origins-and-who-wears-it/
• https://aikidojournal.com/2019/04/30/hakama-101/
• https://melbourneaikidokids.wordpress.com/2011/10/16/history-of-the-hakama/

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