Hemming A Dress - Easy Methods For Beginners - Treasurie Blog

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Hemming a dress is the final touch needed to complete the skirt and gives a distinct finished edge. A dress hem is responsible for finishing off the garment with a neat border or turned-up edge. When making a dress, the last part of the project is sewing the skirt with a hem. This tutorial will teach you how to hem a dress the basic way as well as using several other hem types.

To hem a dress, measure and mark the desired length using fabric chalk or pins. Fold the fabric along the marked line, press it with an iron, and sew along the fold. You can use hand stitches or a sewing machine. Finally, press the hem again for a neat finish.

Hemming a Dress,The Basic Hem Technique

Functional, decorative, short, long, or even scalloped, the hem is open to many different variations. As a general rule, always complete the garment before finishing the hem. The exception to the rule is finishing hems with pleats or ruffles.

Supplies

• Measuring Tape or Ruler
• Pins
• Tailor's Chalk
• Scissors
• Sewing Machine or Hand Sewing Needles and Thread

Step 1 - Measuring and Cutting

The hem is usually the finishing stage of the dress. Let the dress hang overnight to allow any stretch or fullness to drop before trimming and sewing the hem.

1. MEASURE - Start by trying on the dress and deciding on the correct length of the skirt. Every dress and every body type is different and therefore there is no hard and fast rule here for how where the skirt should end. Consider what is flattering for your body and what makes you feel comfortable.
2. ADD SEAM ALLOWANCE - Add at least 1 to 2 inches (2 to 5 cms) of fabric below the desired hem length for the hem seam allowance. For hemming a dress that is straight across, I usually add a 1-inch (2.5cm) seam allowance. This allows for a double-fold hem of ¼ inch + ¾ inch (6mm and 2cm).
3. CUTTING - Cut all the hem allowance line with a sharp pair of scissors making sure you are cutting straight.

Step 2 - Press the Hem

When you are happy with the hem length, remove the dress and turn it inside out ready to start pressing and sewing the hem.

• PRESS OVER TWICE - You will want to turn the raw edge of the hem over twice to create a neatly enclosed hem. This is called a double fold hem.
• WIDTH - The double fold of the hem does not need to be equal. The first turn over can be narrow and the second turnover can be wider. Doing a double fold adds some weight to the hem and encases the raw edge so it does not fray.

If you added a 1-inch (2.5cm) hem seam allowance, press over the hem by ¼ inch (6mm) then ¾ inch (2cm) again.

FOR CURVED HEMS - A smaller turnover is easier to manage than a wider one because of the extra fullness. A skirt with a very full hem will need extra care and a different technique to help to ease the fullness evenly.

Step 3 - Pin and Double-Check

Then measure all around to check the turned-up part of the hem is accurate and neatly pin it in place. Use pins in a vertical fashion and ease the hem on the curves if necessary. You can additionally baste the hem or rely on the pins depending on your level of experience. Have one last fitting to be sure the hem is the right length.

Step 4 - Stitch the Dress Hem

Straight stitch the edge of the hem. Your stitch length will depend on your fabric thickness and type, but a standard length is 2.5.

Step 5 - Finishing

Allow the hem to ‘drop’ or even out as some fabrics need time to settle. Press the hem and enjoy the drape and flare of the skirt.

10 Other Ways to Hem a Dress

The two basic ways to hem a dress are either by hand or by machine. There are types of tape like hemming web which require no sewing but the best method is a stitched one.

The machine-stitched hem is suitable for cotton and linens, and for straightforward hems of medium-weight fabrics. It is perfect for a straight skirt, an A-line, or a gathered skirt with moderate fullness. Here are some of the variations of a machine-stitched hem from simple to more decorative options.

1. Single Fold Hem

A single fold hem is the most simple machine-stitched hem. The raw edge is neatened with a zigzag stitch or a serger, folded once and then stitched with a straight stitch to secure the hem. When the hem is complete, the stitches will show on the right side. There is basically one folded edge.

BEST FOR - Dress hems in thicker fabrics such as wool, felt, and boucle.

2. Double Fold Hem

A double fold hem is the type of hem outlined in the basic section above. The raw edge is neatened with a ¼” (6mm) turning and then turned a second time to the desired width of the hem. The top edge of the hem is completed with a straight stitch all around.

BEST FOR - All weights of fabrics, narrower hems on dresses.

3. Twin Needle

Using a twin needle to complete the hem gives a professional-looking double row of stitches. Practice sewing with a twin needle and remember to change the needle plate to a zigzag plate to accommodate two needles stitching simultaneously.

BEST FOR - Stretch fabric dress hems

3. False Hem or Faced Hem

Curved hems, full hems, and skirts that do not have sufficient fabric to allow a turned hem, may need a false or faced hem. The faced hem can be used to neaten a convex hem. A similarly shaped piece of fabric may be cut to make the false hem or a piece of bias cut fabric or bias binding will do the trick.

BEST FOR - Curved or uneven hems.

4. Blind Hem

The blind hem stitch of a machine works using one of the variations of the zigzag stitch selector. The hem needs to be folded carefully to allow the machine to stitch the blind hem while catching the hem at intervals.

BEST FOR - Wider hems on dresses where an invisible finish is desired.

5. Narrow Rolled Hem

Ideal for chiffon and very lightweight fabrics, this narrow rolled hem uses a hemming foot. The specialized foot rolls the fabric into a double fold roll measuring ⅛” (3mm). Machine stitch as you follow the rolled fabric made by the foot.

BEST FOR - Fine fabrics where a narrow hem on a dress is needed.

6. Hemming a Dress with a Piped Hem

Sewing piping in a contrasting fabric adds a pop of color to the hem. Use some ready-made piping or make your own piping. Attach the piping to the hem edge with the zipper foot and use a facing or bias tape to turn and finish the edge neatly.

BEST FOR - Dress hems where you want a pop of color.

7. Lettuce Edge Hem

Lettuce hems are attractive wavy hems created on knit fabrics. An overcast or zig-zag stitch is used as the edge is stretched and the wavy edge is created.

BEST FOR - Strech Dresses

8. Machine Embroidery

Shell edges need a machine with embroidery stitches to create the edge. Interfacing at the back of the hem supports the decorative stitches. Once the decorative edge has been created the extra fabric is cut away and the decorated edge is left.

9. Ruffle Dress Hems

Adding a frill or gathered piece to the hem is a way of adding length and variety to the hem. The piece may be pleated, gathered, or flared like a ruffle to add to the hem of the dress or skirt. Learn how to gather ruffles.

10. Hemming a Dress with a Serger

Simply serge the edge of the hem in a matching color or contrast and leave the edge as part of the finish. The serged hem will look like a wavy hem on stretch knits. Experiment first to get the right effect with three or four threads.

11. Hemming a Dress by Hand

In addition to machine-stitched hems, the hand-stitched hem can offer variations and decorative effects. Many sewers prefer a hand-stitched hem because it is less visible on the right side of the fabric.

There may be occasions when a hand-stitched hem is a better option. Thicker fabrics, fuller skirt hems, and very fine fabrics will all benefit from a hand-stitched hem. The stitching could be a simple running stitch or a slip stitch. Herringbone stitch is often used for hemming.

Catch stitch is the most popular hemming stitch for hand-sewn hems. Catch stitch gives some elasticity and movement to the hem and allows the skirt to hang softly.

A simple running stitch is a quick and easy finish for a skirt hem and can be viewed as a decorative border as well as a secure hemming method.

More Repairs

• How to Hem Pants
• Lengthen a Pattern
• Hem a Skirt
• Hemming Jeans

In Conclusion

Hemming a dress, particularly the skirt, is a very important part of completing the whole dressmaking process. It is worth spending some time on this final part of the dress. The hem or border completes the garment and ensures the dress hangs correctly and the pattern is shown off to its best advantage. Don’t feel hemmed in by this process, but feel free to try different hemming techniques and come up with the best one for your outfit, fabric, and style.

The above instructions showed you how to make a simple double-fold hem. Here are some more specialized hem articles:

1. WIDE HEMS – How to Sew Wide Hems
2. CIRCULAR HEMS – How to Sew Circular Hems
3. RUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce Hems
4. KNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to Hem Knit Fabric
5. SCALLOPED HEMS – Scalloped Edges Hems
6. PANTS HEMS – How to Hem Pants
7. HEMMING TAPE (NO SEW) How to use Hemming Tape
8. HAND HEM – How to Sew Catch Stitch Easily

Hemming a Dress

Learn how to hem a dress the best way step by step with this easy tutorial. 5/5 - (17 votes) Print Pin Difficulty: Easy BeginnerKeyword: Sewing Total Time: 13 minutes minutes

Difficulty

Tools

• Sewing Basics

Materials

• Dress Fabric

Instructions

• Try the dress on. Measure your finished dress length, add a 1 inch seam allowance and cut with a sharp pair of scissors.
• On the wrong side, press over the raw edge by ¼ inch (6mm).
• Press over again by ¾" (2cm) to fold a double fold hem.
• Stitch across the upper folded edge using a length of 2.5

5/5 - (17 votes)