How Often Do You Tighten Your Lockring? | Road Bike, Cycling Forums

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r_o_b_s_o_n R Hi, I picked up a KHS Flite 100 about 4 months ago... and I'm wondering about the rear hub. I've actually had the rear wheel replaced under warranty already after the threads started pulling apart where the lockring threads meet the cog threads.... the hub was literally coming apart... that happened maybe 3 or 4 weeks after I bought the bike. I have tried to keep the cog/lockring tight, even more so after getting the replacement wheel. I've only started riding the bike again in the last two weeks or so, and have been trying to check the cog/lockring after every ride, but I think I forgot to check it between the last time and today... I don't ride that many miles in a day... maybe 20-40 km or so...any way today I felt something slip as I was starting from a track stand, and thought that didn't feel right, and I got off the bike, and checked the chain tension, wondering if maybe the wheel slipped in the drop out... any way I started again, and next time when I applied back pressure (not even a skid) I felt the same thing, so I rode home only applying forward pressure (good thing I keep a brake on the front!) any way, how often is it normal to have to tighten the cog/lockring? I certainly wouldn't think you would need to tighten it more than once a day... also... when I got home tonight, I checked the lockring to see if it had slipped and indeed it didn't take much pressure to loosen the lockring so I can only imagine it had slipped... how ever when I was putting the wheel back in place I tightened up the axle nuts and stripped one of them... I've always been under the impression that you basically want the lock ring/cog/axle nuts to be as tight as you can get them... but it sounds like I may have some sub par hubs? is it known that KHS flites have **** hubs? I've seen a fair bit of slop in the bearings on the rear wheel as well... when I had the first wheel replaced the shop lent me a Soma Hub with an Ambrosio rim and I didn't seem to have any issues with that wheel.... so is it just an issue with cheep stock hubs, or am I doing something wrong? any recommendations for a hub? what should I avoid? will a Dura Ace hub stand up to street riding well? or should I got with something like the soma, or Formula? or just suck it up and get phills? I would really really appreciate some good advice!! thanks!! #1 · Sep 26, 2011 Hi, I picked up a KHS Flite 100 about 4 months ago... and I'm wondering about the rear hub. I've actually had the rear wheel replaced under warranty already after the threads started pulling apart where the lockring threads meet the cog threads.... the hub was literally coming apart... that happened maybe 3 or 4 weeks after I bought the bike. I have tried to keep the cog/lockring tight, even more so after getting the replacement wheel. I've only started riding the bike again in the last two weeks or so, and have been trying to check the cog/lockring after every ride, but I think I forgot to check it between the last time and today... I don't ride that many miles in a day... maybe 20-40 km or so...any way today I felt something slip as I was starting from a track stand, and thought that didn't feel right, and I got off the bike, and checked the chain tension, wondering if maybe the wheel slipped in the drop out... any way I started again, and next time when I applied back pressure (not even a skid) I felt the same thing, so I rode home only applying forward pressure (good thing I keep a brake on the front!) any way, how often is it normal to have to tighten the cog/lockring? I certainly wouldn't think you would need to tighten it more than once a day... also... when I got home tonight, I checked the lockring to see if it had slipped and indeed it didn't take much pressure to loosen the lockring so I can only imagine it had slipped... how ever when I was putting the wheel back in place I tightened up the axle nuts and stripped one of them... I've always been under the impression that you basically want the lock ring/cog/axle nuts to be as tight as you can get them... but it sounds like I may have some sub par hubs? is it known that KHS flites have **** hubs? I've seen a fair bit of slop in the bearings on the rear wheel as well... when I had the first wheel replaced the shop lent me a Soma Hub with an Ambrosio rim and I didn't seem to have any issues with that wheel.... so is it just an issue with cheep stock hubs, or am I doing something wrong? any recommendations for a hub? what should I avoid? will a Dura Ace hub stand up to street riding well? or should I got with something like the soma, or Formula? or just suck it up and get phills? I would really really appreciate some good advice!! thanks!! See less See more Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Sep 26, 2011 I only tighten it when I change the cog. Which means...every few months. But I don't do hipster things with my fixed gear (no skids and tricks) and I haven't always used a lockring. A fixed gear bike with brakes shouldn't even need a lock ring. #3 · Sep 26, 2011 Hi, how are you tightening the cog? The cog is right hand thread and the lock ring is left so I'm thinking if the cog was not put on tight before the lock ring it might slip when you jump on the peddles. This would then cause the lock ring to back of a tick. When I put my fixed gear bike together I used the peddles to get the cog good and tight before I put the lock ring on. That or maybe try some red locktight - I did not, I used anti seize. Just be aware that if you decide to try the red locktight you may have trouble removing the cog and lock ring, might have to use heat on it. Hope this helps, Axlenut #4 · Sep 26, 2011 whoa, there's about a baziliion questions there. I'll hit a couple of them. I never check a lockring between changing cogs (we're talking track use here). If yours is loose, something's not being done correctly. Lots and lots of track racers use DuraAce hubs. That says a lot about their strength and durability. #9 · Sep 27, 2011 you use a lockring on the track? :skep: Show more replies 0 Reply #5 · Sep 26, 2011 Are you using the proper tools? Chain whip to tighten cog and lockring tool (Park Tool HCW5) to tighten lockring If yes, you shouldn't have any worries. If not, you may not be tightening enough. Definitely no need to check every day, week or month. As other have stated, only need to tighten when you change cogs. #6 · Sep 26, 2011 I am using a chain whip and lockring wrench... as I said above, all my sources have suggested you tighten the cog and lockring as much as is possible, which I have been doing... about the only way I could get them any tighter is to use a pipe on the end of the wrench, but I didn't think that would be necessary. Yes I have done some track riding, and I know that on the track you can easily get away without a lockring since you're not using much back pressure, so I understand that. I know that Dura Ace hubs see tons of use on the track, but has anyone who's ridden them on the street had any experiences that would make them not ideal for street use? as you have all stated above, I've always been of the impression that you shouldn't have to check the lockring/cog as often... I think maybe the hubs that came with my bike are cheep shitty hubs, and no matter what they will eventually fail... so... new hub!! #7 · Sep 26, 2011

all my sources have suggested you tighten the cog and lockring as much as is possible, which I have been doing Click to expand...

"As much as possible" is not the recommended torque spec for any part I've ever heard of. I suspect you are damaging your lockring threads (possibly the cog threads as well) by tightening too much. The fact that you stripped an axle nut reinforces my suspicion that this is an "incredible hulk" operator error. The lockring is a steel part threading onto a pretty small number of pretty small threads on an aluminum hub shell. It doesn't take much torque. The reverse thread arrrgement pretty well takes care of loosening, as long as you thread both the cog and ring on completely. One question: when you put on the lockring, does it tighten firmly against the cog shoulder, or is it possible it hits the bottom of the threads before firm contact. Some cheap cogs aren't thick enough, and this will allow a little play, which sounds like what you've experienced. Both of my street fixies have "suicide hubs" - old freewheel hubs with no provision for reverse lockring. I have front brakes and use them, and I don't skid, but I do use back pressure to slow moderately. I put on the cogs with blue loctite, and I've never had one move, at all. #8 · Sep 26, 2011

JCavilia said: The fact that you stripped an axle nut reinforces my suspicion that this is an "incredible hulk" Click to expand...

I'm inclined to agree. I only tighten the lockring after changing cogs. So far that's twice in two years of riding. Tightening down a bolt, nut, or other fastener "as much as you can" is advice I usually see coming from people who have never broken a tool by hand. The fact you were able to strip axle threads indicates you need to stop before you've hit your physical limit. Stripping aluminum threads isn't as hard as some people believe. You might have a cheap cog. You might have a cheap hub. You might have gorilla forearms. If you don't have access to a torque wrench to help learn the feel of different degrees of torque on a part I'd recommend stopping when it feels "tight" rather than "snug", but before "dang, will I ever be able to get this off again?". Can we get any more vague suggestions? Perhaps, but I'm fresh out. 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply

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