IN2DEEPI Ok..... I don't want to give away my secret invention, but it involves the mechanism from the wipers from a CJ. So anyway, I was wanting to attach something to the mechanism, but I don't have a welder or any obvious means of attaching. So I was going to just JB Weld the thing to it. I have only used JB Weld once (with good results), and I'm wondering if the constant back and forth movement might be too much stress for it. I know this post is vague, but I really can't help it. I think I'm going to try the JB Weld anyway, but I just wanted some examples of it's use. The stuff seems great for the small jobs I want to tackle. I guess I was looking for some "war" stories. Thanks Drew IN2DEEP 78 CJ5 302 FORD /wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif T176/D300 35" BFGS #1 · Aug 26, 2000 Ok..... I don't want to give away my secret invention, but it involves the mechanism from the wipers from a CJ. So anyway, I was wanting to attach something to the mechanism, but I don't have a welder or any obvious means of attaching. So I was going to just JB Weld the thing to it. I have only used JB Weld once (with good results), and I'm wondering if the constant back and forth movement might be too much stress for it. I know this post is vague, but I really can't help it. I think I'm going to try the JB Weld anyway, but I just wanted some examples of it's use. The stuff seems great for the small jobs I want to tackle. I guess I was looking for some "war" stories. Thanks Drew IN2DEEP 78 CJ5 302 FORD /wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif T176/D300 35" BFGS See less See more 1 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Aug 26, 2000 According to its package, it says it was used to hold a Caterpillar engine block together, saving a company around $4000. Well I'm a landscaper, and at work we tried it on part of the throttle body of a weed whacker, it didn't later a day. All it had to hold was the force of a cable pulling it with the amount of force exerted from one finger...the JB welb package has many examples of what its done, but from personal experience, its not very good. #3 · Aug 26, 2000 ive never used it a "stressed" application, only to patch various leaks in stuff. it works well if the surface is prepperd good, wire brush then solvent. it does after some time in teh elements get a littl crusty and faded, so itll eventually crumble. there are several products around that do about the same things. can you not drill a few holes and use some screws or bolts? OzarkJeep "Too small to be seen, and too big to control, and treated like a walking bomb." #4 · Aug 26, 2000 i've used it through the years on plastic stuff that broke like survey equip ie hand held radios cases etc. wouldn't rely on it much though with any moving mech parts. you know the routine mr! #5 · Aug 26, 2000 I've had really good luck with JB Weld. I've used some other types of stuff about like JB Weld, and been disappointed. Here are some tips... 1. NO SUCH THING AS TOO CLEAN. It won't stick if there is oil, grease, fuel residue or anything else keeping it from getting a hold of the metal. 2. NO SUCH THING AS TOO ROUGH. It won't stick very well to polished or really smooth surfaces, but if you make a few grooves with a file or tough sand paper, it can get a hold much better. 3. HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND. He will lower the viscosity of the epoxy (make it runny) and it will fill cracks and pin holes much better. Also, the heat will force out trapped moisture and air in blind holes. 4. THE BEST TOOLS ARE FREE. Popcicle sticks and tooth picks are the best tools to work with JB Weld. Uncoated wood, and uncoated brown cardboard boxes seem to make the best mixing pallets and working tools. If you need to contain the JB Weld around a small area, try a rubber 'O' ring or if you don't have to heat it, 'Play Dough' or 'Silly Putty' works well. Both exude oils, be careful to not touch the stuff you want the JB Weld to stick too, and the JB Weld wont stick to your 'Mold' material. 5. DON'T TRY 'BUTT' CONNECTIONS. Sticking things end to end usually doesn't work. Try roughing up the two parts so the JB Weld can get a grip on them, and then slipping a piece of tubing over them, and filling the tube. Let the JB Weld fill in around the pieces and get a grip. You can always work it down some when it's hardened. A paper, tape or cardboard tube works just as good as steel or rubber because the support is from the JB Weld. 6. JB WELD IS FUEL IMPERVIOUS. No common fuel I know of will affect JB Weld after it's hardened. I can't think of a single other kind of epoxy or no heat material that will do that. 7. JB WELD WORKS ON PLASTIC AND GLASS. The epoxy in JB Weld works as well on plastic and glass as long as the surface is rough enough to get a grip on. When you are rebuilding plastic parts, CLEAN THEM WELL WITH ALCOHOL, then mock everything up, and fill in on the back side with JB Weld. It's not super glue, and doesn't work that way, so remember to puddle a little on the back side for support. On glass, sand blast or use one of those vibrating engraving tools to rough the surface, then clean and apply the epoxy. 8. WHEN SETTING FITTINGS... When you are setting fuel fitting on a gas tank, drill your hole carefully, as not to cause a spark. Sand or sand blast around the hole, and the tail of the fitting that is going in the tank. Clean both thoroughly, and put an 'O' ring around the place you are going to puddle the JB Weld, and place the fitting in the hole. Heat the JB Weld before mixing it, or heat with a heat gun while mixing, but beware, it will become very runny, and you will have to mix in a small bowl or bottle cap... Pour the JB Weld, still warm, in the 'O' ring, and use a tooth pick to move it about until everything is coated well. There should be at least 1/16" of material, and I prefer about 1/8" for a good joint. The same procedure works on radiators, metal radiator overflow tanks, oil pan leaks, ect... "I Have The Body Of A God... Buddha" #6 · Aug 27, 2000 /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif We're using it on the rollcage of our CJ to weld the various pieces together. It's SO much easier then getting the welder out and getting burnt all the time from the weld "crispies" falling all over us./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif I'm thinking that we can use it to weld the seat belt anchorages to the floor too./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif /wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif JB is just like anything else....it depends. It depends on the MATERIAL, and on the AREA that you have to get a bond over, and the LOAD that will be on the joint. Remember, JB actually doesn't WELD, but it ADHERES to the parts like a glue. Welding can be done with no rod if you puddle the two parts together and mix the material.....that's welding. Not to be confused with gluing./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif CJDave Quadra-Tracs modified While-U-Wait by the crack moonguy/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Quadra-Trac Team./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif #7 · Aug 27, 2000 If this is for a one off prototype you could use fixturing metal, these are special alloys that have melting points between 180-300 degrees F. You can build molds out of wood or plaster and melt this stuff on the kitchen stove. Pour the molten metal in the mold and presto new part in about half an hour. Other things like studs, pins, nuts etc. can be cast right into this stuff also. You can find fixturing metal in real serious model railroad shops (If they have locomotives worth more than your jeep your in the right place) or ask me and I can give you some mail order places that have it. good luck, jjc #8 · Aug 27, 2000 There is jb weld and jb quick. Jb weld takes about 24 hours to dry and jb quick takes about five minutes. I've had pretty good luck with it. #9 · Aug 29, 2000 This brings back a thought I had before. Everyone talks about tack welding the tubes on the AMC20. Others say don't, it will weaken it or make it brittle. What if the area was prepped and a bead of JB weld but around it. Would this be any benefit or is the just a plan really silly idea??? Kevin Low 84 CJ7 SE Michigan #10 · Aug 29, 2000 I would weld them. I used jbweld on 4.0 block where the motor mount attaches to the block. Used jb on the broken pieces and torqued it down. It held for a month but then you could see where it started to crack. And that wasn't doing any fourwheelin. #11 · Aug 29, 2000 I used it on my alternator in a vw scirrocco that continuously broke the mount from the motor shifting. I had the alt. on for another 2 years after i jb'ed it together. Main thing is be sure everything is clean and give it ample drying time...24 hours with weld....2 hours w/quick. 84 cj7 Laredo Superior 1 piece, more to come..... #12 · Aug 29, 2000 TeamRush, One more "cleanliness" issue..... after cleaning, don't touch it! The natural oils from your fingers will prevent full adhesion. CJDave, Watch it..... somebody might take you seriously. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Then somebody's widow will sue the JB Weld company and you because her drunk husband's JBWelded rollcage didn't protect him when he rolled his 8" bodylifted Jeep while trying to take an offramp at 90 mph..... deuce, The thing to remember is that JB Weld is just..... epoxy! It has steel particles in it which makes it stiffer and stronger in tension, but the actual adhesion is no better than any other epoxy. IOW, forget about it for axle tubes. -Dana "I've got a shotgun, a rifle, and a four wheel drive, A country boy can survive." #13 · Aug 30, 2000 I used it to hold the U-Joint caps on, after i broke the stupid little retaining tabs. It held for 45 miles, at about 30 mph, after 8 miles on the trail. still keep it as a back up. It's useful, but not a permanent tool. My .02 BJ See you on the pilf side #14 · Aug 30, 2000 a friend of mine used it to fill in a crack on the block of his kids atv...still holding today. I think the stuff is as good as they advertise... 78 CJ5 w/360 "measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, and cut it with an axe" Insert Quotes Post Reply
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