How To Build A Table - Pretty Handy Girl

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Building a Farmhouse Table has been on my mind for several years. I was never crazy about our hand-me-down dining set. But, I never had the time to build a table from scratch. Now that the table is done, I don’t know why I put it off for so long. Building a table is relatively easy DIY project. You basically need four table legs, 1″ x 4″ boards for the apron and a table top. Depending on your style, you can use anything for the top. You can cut grooves into an existing table top to create the plank look, like Lauren from Bless’er House did:

Or you could use 2″ x 6″ lumber to create a new table top like Jaime from That’s My Letter did:

Or wrap MDF with galvanized sheet metal for a zinc top, like Traci from Beneath My Heart did:

Feel free to create a table top with something less conventional like a slab of marble, tempered glass or an old door! Use your imagination and creativity.

I chose to work with reclaimed lumber for a true farmhouse table top. I bought reclaimed rafters from The ReUse Warehouse in Durham, NC. When I paid for it, the lumber looked like this:

But, was transformed into this:

Here are the details for creating the reclaimed wood table top.

Today we’re going to learn how to build the table base!

How to Build a Table Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

• 4 Table legs (rope twist legs I used from Osborne Wood Products)
• Table top
• 1″ x 4″ Premium Pine (poplar or other straight knot free wood)
• Kreg Jig
• 2″ Pocket Hole Screws (you may also need different depth screws if you have a thin table top)
• Tape Measure
• Combination Square
• Clamps
• Pencil

Optional: 2″ x 4″ board for additional center support

How to Build a Table Instructions:

Measure your table top and subtract 8″ from the length measurement (my table is 71″ long, so the measurement I need for the base is 63″.) Measure the table top width and subtract 5″ from that measurement (my table is 42″ wide, so the measurement I need for the base is 37″.)

Next measure the thickness of the top of your table legs. Then double that number. This will give you the width of both legs per side. Subtract this number to get the length of your apron rails. (For example, my table base final measurement is 63″ x 37″. My table legs are 4″ wide x 2 = 8″. Therefore my two side rails need to be 55″ and the end rails should be 29″.)

Cut the 1″ x 4″ boards to the size you figured out above.

Lay your legs and apron rails upside down on a flat surface. Double check your measurements, square and the table top dimensions against the table base.

Pull the apron rails aside. Mark the center of each rail. Measure and mark 6″-8″ out from the center mark and continue making a mark every 6″ – 8″. Transfer the marks onto the parallel apron board. These will be your pocket hole locations.

Drill two pocket holes into the ends of each rail. These will be for attaching the rails to the table legs. Drill pocket holes at all the pre-marked locations. This will be for attaching the table top to the base.

Lay out the legs and rails on the flat surface again. Mark 1/4″ in on the table leg.

Line up the apron rail with this mark and use clamps to hold the rail in place. Drive 2″ pocket screws through the rail and into the legs.

Continue attaching the rails to the table legs. Work upside down on the flat surface to assure that your table base top will fit flush with the table top.

Your table base should be complete and look like this:

For added support, you may wish to attach a 2″ x 4″ board to the center of the table base. Simply drill two pocket holes per end and attach it to the apron rail.

When attaching two different thickness boards together, refer to this Kreg Jig chart. It is an invaluable resource!

Click Here to download a PDF version.

Set your table top on top of the base and center the top onto the base. Make sure the overlap on both sides are equal and the overlap on the two ends are equal.

Secure the top to the base using pocket hole screws. (My table top is 1.5″ thick, I used 1 1/2″ pocket screws, but you may need to use the chart above to figure out what length screw to use.)

Your table is finished!

That was fairly easy, wasn’t it.

Next week I’ll show you details about my rustic farmhouse table top and how to distress and age the table legs.

In the meantime, I can’t wait to invite anyone and everyone over to sit down for good food and great conversation around this beauty.

Have a great weekend!

Disclosure: I was provided with complimentary table legs from Osborne Wood Products. This is not a sponsored post. I was not told what to write. This post contains some affiliate links.

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