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Pets and Animals
Birds
Bird Breeds
Poultry
Chickens
How to Make Nesting Boxes for Chickens Make your feathered friends comfortable and secure Co-authored by Alexandra Doss
Last Updated: February 18, 2026 References
Designing Your Boxes
|
Measuring and Cutting the Pieces
|
Assembling the Boxes
|
Encouraging Your Hens to Nest
|
Expert Interview
|
Expert Q&A
|
Things You'll Need
|Show more|Show less X
This article was co-authored by Alexandra Doss. Alexandra Doss is a Poultry & Livestock Expert expert based in Ruskin, Florida. She owns and manages Stellar Game Birds, Poultry, Waterfowl LLC, a selective breeding operation with game birds, poultry, and waterfowl. With over 14 years of experience, she produces strong genetics and health in her hatching eggs, eating eggs, and live birds. The farm is FWC game farm licensed, FDAC licensed for quail, chicken, and duck eating eggs and meat, and NPIP certified. She is known as the Quail Lady and has published several books on raising Coturnix. Her work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Backyard Poultry, Grit, The Chicken Whisperer Magazine, and Community Chickens. She also has a career as a Workforce Management Supervisor and has a certificate in project management. She received a BS from Oregon State in Animal Sciences. There are 12 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 73,665 times.
Whether you have a full flock or a few backyard chickens, making your own nesting boxes can be an easy and affordable way to bring fresh eggs to the table. With a little planning, a few tools, and some scrap wood, you can make boxes for your chickens that will encourage laying and keep them happy and healthy.
Steps
Part 1 Part 1 of 4:
Designing Your Boxes
1 Make at least 1 box for every 2-4 hens. Hens will trade off using the boxes depending on who is laying, so this will ensure that your hens have enough space and don’t have to fight over boxes. However, if you are thinking about getting more chickens eventually, you may want to consider making more.[1]X Expert Source Alexandra DossPoultry & Livestock ExpertExpert Interview [2]XResearch source
2 Determine how large your boxes should be. For most chickens, 16 by 16 by 16 inches (41 × 41 × 41 cm) is a good size. If you have a larger breed, like Orpingtons or Rhode Island Reds, you may want to make larger boxes, like 18 by 18 by 18 inches (46 × 46 × 46 cm). You can make your boxes smaller if your space is very limited, but they should be at least 12 by 12 by 12 inches (30 × 30 × 30 cm).[3]XResearch source Advertisement
3 Choose a place for your nesting boxes. They should be inside the coop and 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) off the ground to protect your birds from predators.[4]XResearch source However, they should be lower than your chickens’ roosting spot and 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m) away from it, or they may end up roosting in their boxes instead, which will lead to very messy nests.[5]XResearch source
Advertisement Part 2 Part 2 of 4:
Measuring and Cutting the Pieces
1 Choose a flat wood like plywood that is about 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick. You can buy this at a construction supply store like Lowe’s or Home Depot, but you can also use scraps from a place like Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore for much cheaper.
If you have scrap wood lying around from a past project, this can be an ideal use for it.[6]XResearch source If you are making 16 × 16 × 16 in (41 × 41 × 41 cm) boxes, the scraps should be at least 16 inches (41 cm) square. You should also have 6 pieces that are as long as all your boxes put together, and 3 of them should be at least 16 inches (41 cm) wide.
2 Cut out your side and divider pieces using a circular saw or table saw.[7]XResearch source You should have 1 of these for every box you’re making, plus 1 more. They should be the width and length that you want each box to be.
If you’re making 16 × 16 × 16 in (41 × 41 × 41 cm) boxes, your side and divider pieces should be 16 inches (41 cm) square.
Measure and mark where you will cut before using your saw. You should always wear work gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask while cutting, and work on a stable surface.[8]XResearch source
3 Make support pieces for your sides and dividers. These should be the same length as your side and divider pieces, but only 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide. You will end up using these pieces to hold the sides and dividers in place and make the boxes more stable. Cut 1 for each side and 2 for each divider.[9]XResearch source
4 Create back and top pieces long enough to cover all your boxes. The width of these pieces will be the same as your side and divider pieces, and you can calculate how long it should be by multiplying the width times the number of boxes you’re building.
For instance, if you’re making 3 boxes that are 16 inches (41 cm) wide, your top and back pieces should be 16 inches (41 cm) wide and 48 inches (120 cm) long.
5 Make a bottom piece as long as the top piece but 10 inches (25 cm) wider. The bottom piece will create a ledge on the front and give you a place to put a perch bar for your hens to hop up onto when they enter the boxes.
6 Cut 1 long piece for the front lip. You’ll want a short board that stretches across the bottom front of all the boxes, to keep the bedding and eggs from falling out.[10]XResearch source This should be as long as your top piece, and at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide.
You can also use a long wire for the lip instead of a board. This will make it easier to clean your boxes as it can be easily removed, but may not be as effective at keeping eggs and bedding from falling out. The wire can be hooked onto a screw or nail on each side of the boxes, and removed when you want to clean dirty bedding materials out of the boxes.[11]XResearch source
7 Cut two pieces for the top trim and perch bar. These should be as long as your top piece and 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) wide. One will go along the front top of your boxes and screw into the top and sides for extra stability, and one will be screwed to the front of the protruding bottom piece to serve as a perching bar for your chickens. This will give them something to grasp when they hop up onto the platform to enter their boxes.
Advertisement Part 3 Part 3 of 4:
Assembling the Boxes
1 Measure and mark where your dividers will go on the bottom piece. If you are making your boxes 16 inches (41 cm) wide, measure 16 inches (41 cm) from one side, mark it, and repeat this for each divider. This will ensure that you’re placing the dividers evenly so that all the boxes end up the same size.
You should measure and mark along both lengthwise edges of the bottom piece to be sure your measurements are straight.
2 Glue your sides and dividers to the bottom piece using wood glue. Follow the markings you made on the bottom piece and glue your dividers in place, using a heavy object to prop them up on each side while they dry. Glue your side pieces in place on each short edge of the bottom piece and prop them up as well.
When you’re propping up the piece to dry, use a level to make sure they’re positioned straight up and down. Otherwise, you’ll have trouble attaching the top piece.[12]XResearch source
3 Attach supports to the bottom piece next to each side and divider. Once the glue on the sides and dividers is dry, take the support pieces you cut and screw or nail them down on either side of each divider. Do the same next to each side piece.[13]XResearch source
4 Add the top piece to your boxes. It should fit on the boxes so that it’s flush with the top edges of each side and divider. Attach it with 2-3 screws or nails in each place where it meets a side or divider.[14]XResearch source
Make sure your nails or screws are long enough to go through the top piece and at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the sides or dividers underneath it.
For extra stability, flip the boxes over and put 2-3 screws or nails in the bottom piece in each place where it meets a side or divider.
5 Turn the boxes over and attach the back piece. The back side of the boxes, where you will attach the back piece, should be facing up so that you can rest the back piece on top while you attach it. Use at least 6-8 nails or screws for each box to ensure that it’s well secured.
Since the bottom piece will stick out farther in the front, you may need to set the boxes on top of cinder-blocks so that it can lie flat. You can also have 2 people hold the back piece in place while you attach it instead of turning it over.
6 Attach the front lip and trim. These are the two long, thin boards that you will attach to the top front and bottom front of the boxes to secure them and keep bedding from falling out. Flip the boxes over so that the front faces up and the back piece is resting on the ground. Place the front lip along the bottom edge and attach it, using one screw or nail for every side and divider. Do the same with the trim along the top edge.[15]XResearch source
7 Add the perch board to the bottom piece. Set it so that it runs along the front edge of the bottom piece where it sticks out further than the boxes. Attach it using 1 screw or nail for every box.[16]XResearch source
Advertisement Part 4 Part 4 of 4:
Encouraging Your Hens to Nest
1 Make bedding material for your boxes. Hens will be more likely to use the boxes if they contain some nest-like material. Straw and dried grass can make good bedding, as long as you’re sure they didn’t come into contact with pesticides or chemicals. Shredded paper can also be an affordable option, but steer clear of paper with colored inks, glossy paper, and receipt paper, as these can all be toxic to your hens. Wood shavings are ideal, as they are easy to clean and usually have a pleasant smell.[17]XResearch source
The boxes should have at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) of bedding, and you may need to add more periodically if it becomes flattened or is kicked out of the boxes.
If you are using wood shavings, avoid cedar, since it contains aromatic oils that can be harmful to chickens. Pine is best.
2 Use fabric scraps or feed sacks to make curtains. Hens will be more likely to nest if the boxes feel private and safe.[18]XResearch source Cut 2 pieces for each box so that a hen can easily enter the box between them, then attach them to the top of each box with thumbtacks, staples or glue.
The curtains should be large enough that they cover the entire opening of the box. If your hens do not seem to be entering the boxes, try pinning or tying the bottoms of the curtains to the side to make the opening between them obvious.
Any kind of fabric will do, but if you want to avoid unsightly unraveling, use stretchier knit fabrics or hem the edges.
3 Add golf balls or fake eggs to encourage laying. Hens may be more likely to lay and become broody if they believe there are already eggs in the nest.[19]XResearch source Fake eggs can be purchased from farm supply companies or even hobby stores.
4 Keep your boxes clean. Check them every week or so to make sure the bedding is not damp or stinky, and that the boxes are not full of manure. Straw, dried grass and shredded paper are especially likely to become smelly within a few weeks, and the bedding should be changed out when that happens. Clean nests will help keep your hens safe from disease and infection.[20]XResearch source
When you clean out the bedding, check to see whether the box itself seems to be crusted with dirt or manure. If it is, clean it with some water, a scrub brush, and an unscented, eco-friendly cleaning solution like Dr. Bronner’s.[21]XResearch source
5 Avoid pest problems by using herbs. Mixing a few handfuls of dried herbs such as lavender, rosemary and thyme in with your bedding can help deter pests such as mites, while also keeping your boxes smelling fresher. Avoid using fresh herbs in the boxes, as they may decompose too quickly and create bad odors or mold.[22]XResearch source
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Expert Q&A
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Question Should I have one nesting box for every hen? Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert Alexandra Doss is a Poultry & Livestock Expert expert based in Ruskin, Florida. She owns and manages Stellar Game Birds, Poultry, Waterfowl LLC, a selective breeding operation with game birds, poultry, and waterfowl. With over 14 years of experience, she produces strong genetics and health in her hatching eggs, eating eggs, and live birds. The farm is FWC game farm licensed, FDAC licensed for quail, chicken, and duck eating eggs and meat, and NPIP certified. She is known as the Quail Lady and has published several books on raising Coturnix. Her work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Backyard Poultry, Grit, The Chicken Whisperer Magazine, and Community Chickens. She also has a career as a Workforce Management Supervisor and has a certificate in project management. She received a BS from Oregon State in Animal Sciences. Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert Expert Answer Yes, you should! It is ideal to have one nesting box for every hen so they don't fight over it. Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.Thank you for your feedback. If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow Yes No Not Helpful 8 Helpful 3
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Things You’ll Need
Building materials for 3 16 by 16 by 16 inches (41 × 41 × 41 cm) boxes:
At least 50 screws or nails (having some extra is a good idea), 4 inches (10 cm) or twice as long as the thickness of your plywood
4 16 by 16 inches (41 cm × 41 cm) pieces of plywood for sides and dividers
2 16 by 48 inches (41 cm × 122 cm) pieces of plywood for top and back
1 26 by 48 inches (66 cm × 122 cm) piece of plywood for bottom
6 16 by 2 inches (40.6 cm × 5.1 cm) pieces of plywood for supports
3 3 by 48 inches (7.6 cm × 121.9 cm) pieces of plywood for trim, lip and perch bar
Tools:
Measuring tape
Level
Saw
Wood glue
8 Cinder-blocks or heavy objects for propping up glued pieces
Work gloves
Dust mask
Safety glasses
Hammer or drill
Carpenter’s pencil
Additional materials:
Bedding material (wood shavings, shredded paper, straw, or dried grass)
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Expert Interview
Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about nesting boxes, check out our in-depth interview with Alexandra Doss.
References
↑ Alexandra Doss. Poultry & Livestock Expert. Expert Interview
Co-authored by: Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert This article was co-authored by Alexandra Doss. Alexandra Doss is a Poultry & Livestock Expert expert based in Ruskin, Florida. She owns and manages Stellar Game Birds, Poultry, Waterfowl LLC, a selective breeding operation with game birds, poultry, and waterfowl. With over 14 years of experience, she produces strong genetics and health in her hatching eggs, eating eggs, and live birds. The farm is FWC game farm licensed, FDAC licensed for quail, chicken, and duck eating eggs and meat, and NPIP certified. She is known as the Quail Lady and has published several books on raising Coturnix. Her work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Backyard Poultry, Grit, The Chicken Whisperer Magazine, and Community Chickens. She also has a career as a Workforce Management Supervisor and has a certificate in project management. She received a BS from Oregon State in Animal Sciences. This article has been viewed 73,665 times. 36 votes - 82% Co-authors: 6Updated: February 18, 2026 Views: 73,665 Categories: ChickensArticle SummaryX
To build nesting boxes, you should make 1 box for every 2 to 4 hens you have so they have enough space for laying. Each box should be 16 by 16 by 16 inches. When you’re ready to start building, first get flat wood like plywood that’s around 2 inches thick from a construction supply store or scraps you have from a past project. Then, using a circular saw or table saw, cut out side and divider, support, top, back, and bottom pieces for the boxes. Remember to measure and mark where you’re cutting and to always wear protective gear like work gloves and safety glasses before using the saw! Once you have all of the pieces for your box, glue the side and divider pieces to the bottom piece with wood glue and then use nails or screws to attach the top and back pieces. For more information, including how to attach the front lip and trim to your nesting boxes so they’re secure, scroll down.Did this summary help you?YesNo
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Yes No Advertisement Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Co-authored by: Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert Co-authors: 6Updated: February 18, 2026 Views: 73,66582% of readers found this article helpful. 36 votes - 82% Click a star to add your vote
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Co-authored by: Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert This article was co-authored by Alexandra Doss. Alexandra Doss is a Poultry & Livestock Expert expert based in Ruskin, Florida. She owns and manages Stellar Game Birds, Poultry, Waterfowl LLC, a selective breeding operation with game birds, poultry, and waterfowl. With over 14 years of experience, she produces strong genetics and health in her hatching eggs, eating eggs, and live birds. The farm is FWC game farm licensed, FDAC licensed for quail, chicken, and duck eating eggs and meat, and NPIP certified. She is known as the Quail Lady and has published several books on raising Coturnix. Her work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Backyard Poultry, Grit, The Chicken Whisperer Magazine, and Community Chickens. She also has a career as a Workforce Management Supervisor and has a certificate in project management. She received a BS from Oregon State in Animal Sciences. This article has been viewed 73,665 times. 36 votes - 82% Co-authors: 6 Updated: February 18, 2026 Views: 73,665 Categories: Chickens Article SummaryX
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1 Make at least 1 box for every 2-4 hens. Hens will trade off using the boxes depending on who is laying, so this will ensure that your hens have enough space and don’t have to fight over boxes. However, if you are thinking about getting more chickens eventually, you may want to consider making more.[1] [2] 
2 Determine how large your boxes should be. For most chickens, 16 by 16 by 16 inches (41 × 41 × 41 cm) is a good size. If you have a larger breed, like Orpingtons or Rhode Island Reds, you may want to make larger boxes, like 18 by 18 by 18 inches (46 × 46 × 46 cm). You can make your boxes smaller if your space is very limited, but they should be at least 12 by 12 by 12 inches (30 × 30 × 30 cm).[3] Advertisement 
3 Choose a place for your nesting boxes. They should be inside the coop and 3–4 feet (0.91–1.22 m) off the ground to protect your birds from predators.[4] However, they should be lower than your chickens’ roosting spot and 4–5 feet (1.2–1.5 m) away from it, or they may end up roosting in their boxes instead, which will lead to very messy nests.[5] Advertisement 
1 Choose a flat wood like plywood that is about 2 inches (5.1 cm) thick. You can buy this at a construction supply store like Lowe’s or Home Depot, but you can also use scraps from a place like Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore for much cheaper. 
2 Cut out your side and divider pieces using a circular saw or table saw.[7] You should have 1 of these for every box you’re making, plus 1 more. They should be the width and length that you want each box to be. 
3 Make support pieces for your sides and dividers. These should be the same length as your side and divider pieces, but only 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide. You will end up using these pieces to hold the sides and dividers in place and make the boxes more stable. Cut 1 for each side and 2 for each divider.[9] 
4 Create back and top pieces long enough to cover all your boxes. The width of these pieces will be the same as your side and divider pieces, and you can calculate how long it should be by multiplying the width times the number of boxes you’re building. 
5 Make a bottom piece as long as the top piece but 10 inches (25 cm) wider. The bottom piece will create a ledge on the front and give you a place to put a perch bar for your hens to hop up onto when they enter the boxes. 
6 Cut 1 long piece for the front lip. You’ll want a short board that stretches across the bottom front of all the boxes, to keep the bedding and eggs from falling out.[10] This should be as long as your top piece, and at least 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide. 
7 Cut two pieces for the top trim and perch bar. These should be as long as your top piece and 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) wide. One will go along the front top of your boxes and screw into the top and sides for extra stability, and one will be screwed to the front of the protruding bottom piece to serve as a perching bar for your chickens. This will give them something to grasp when they hop up onto the platform to enter their boxes. Advertisement 
1 Measure and mark where your dividers will go on the bottom piece. If you are making your boxes 16 inches (41 cm) wide, measure 16 inches (41 cm) from one side, mark it, and repeat this for each divider. This will ensure that you’re placing the dividers evenly so that all the boxes end up the same size. 
2 Glue your sides and dividers to the bottom piece using wood glue. Follow the markings you made on the bottom piece and glue your dividers in place, using a heavy object to prop them up on each side while they dry. Glue your side pieces in place on each short edge of the bottom piece and prop them up as well. 
3 Attach supports to the bottom piece next to each side and divider. Once the glue on the sides and dividers is dry, take the support pieces you cut and screw or nail them down on either side of each divider. Do the same next to each side piece.[13] 
4 Add the top piece to your boxes. It should fit on the boxes so that it’s flush with the top edges of each side and divider. Attach it with 2-3 screws or nails in each place where it meets a side or divider.[14] 
5 Turn the boxes over and attach the back piece. The back side of the boxes, where you will attach the back piece, should be facing up so that you can rest the back piece on top while you attach it. Use at least 6-8 nails or screws for each box to ensure that it’s well secured. 
6 Attach the front lip and trim. These are the two long, thin boards that you will attach to the top front and bottom front of the boxes to secure them and keep bedding from falling out. Flip the boxes over so that the front faces up and the back piece is resting on the ground. Place the front lip along the bottom edge and attach it, using one screw or nail for every side and divider. Do the same with the trim along the top edge.[15] 
7 Add the perch board to the bottom piece. Set it so that it runs along the front edge of the bottom piece where it sticks out further than the boxes. Attach it using 1 screw or nail for every box.[16] Advertisement 
1 Make bedding material for your boxes. Hens will be more likely to use the boxes if they contain some nest-like material. Straw and dried grass can make good bedding, as long as you’re sure they didn’t come into contact with pesticides or chemicals. Shredded paper can also be an affordable option, but steer clear of paper with colored inks, glossy paper, and receipt paper, as these can all be toxic to your hens. Wood shavings are ideal, as they are easy to clean and usually have a pleasant smell.[17] 
2 Use fabric scraps or feed sacks to make curtains. Hens will be more likely to nest if the boxes feel private and safe.[18] Cut 2 pieces for each box so that a hen can easily enter the box between them, then attach them to the top of each box with thumbtacks, staples or glue. 
3 Add golf balls or fake eggs to encourage laying. Hens may be more likely to lay and become broody if they believe there are already eggs in the nest.[19] Fake eggs can be purchased from farm supply companies or even hobby stores. 
4 Keep your boxes clean. Check them every week or so to make sure the bedding is not damp or stinky, and that the boxes are not full of manure. Straw, dried grass and shredded paper are especially likely to become smelly within a few weeks, and the bedding should be changed out when that happens. Clean nests will help keep your hens safe from disease and infection.[20] 
5 Avoid pest problems by using herbs. Mixing a few handfuls of dried herbs such as lavender, rosemary and thyme in with your bedding can help deter pests such as mites, while also keeping your boxes smelling fresher. Avoid using fresh herbs in the boxes, as they may decompose too quickly and create bad odors or mold.[22] Advertisement 
Alexandra Doss Poultry & Livestock Expert Alexandra Doss is a Poultry & Livestock Expert expert based in Ruskin, Florida. She owns and manages Stellar Game Birds, Poultry, Waterfowl LLC, a selective breeding operation with game birds, poultry, and waterfowl. With over 14 years of experience, she produces strong genetics and health in her hatching eggs, eating eggs, and live birds. The farm is FWC game farm licensed, FDAC licensed for quail, chicken, and duck eating eggs and meat, and NPIP certified. She is known as the Quail Lady and has published several books on raising Coturnix. Her work has been featured in Mother Earth News, Backyard Poultry, Grit, The Chicken Whisperer Magazine, and Community Chickens. She also has a career as a Workforce Management Supervisor and has a certificate in project management. She received a BS from Oregon State in Animal Sciences. 
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