How To Grow Gorgeous Mulberry Trees - Gardener's Path

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Skip to content Gardener's Path Menu A close up horizontal image of ripe and ripening mulberries on the tree ready for harvest. A close up of ripe purple and red mulberries hanging from the branches of a the tree.A collage of photos showing different views of mulberries and the tree that fruits them.A close up vertical image of ripening mulberries growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background. To the top and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

Morus spp.

Mulberry trees are members of the Moraceae family, which includes over a thousand species of flowering plants. The Morus genus has 19 species of deciduous mulberry trees.

Home gardeners in Zones 4 to 10 who shop for mulberries will likely find three Asian species: black, Morus nigra, white aka silkworm mulberry, M. alba, and paper mulberry, which was previously classified in the Morus genus but now goes by Broussonetia papyrifera.

In addition there are two species endemic to North America: red, M. rubra, and Texas or Mexican M. celtidifolia, aka M. microphylla. The names refer to the color of the flower buds, not that of the fruits.

A close up horizontal image of ripe and ripening mulberries on the tree ready for harvest.

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Gardeners have a love/hate relationship with the mulberry tree. Proponents cite its value as a landscape shade tree, benefit to beneficial pollinators and wildlife, and abundant fruiting.

Adversaries dislike its production of potentially allergy-inducing pollen, the mess made by birds that consume berries and leave droppings on cars and laundry, and its ability to self-sow.

White mulberries are so aggressive with their ability to grow in poor soil and self-seed abundantly that Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee have placed them on the invasive species list and banned them.

Similarly, the paper mulberry is a Category II Invasive Species monitored for its ability to displace native flora.

So before you plant, check with your local agricultural extension to make a sound environmental choice that complies with the regulations in your region.

That said, let’s get into the details of how to grow and care for mulberry trees in the home landscape.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

What You’ll Learn

Quick Look

How to Grow

Species and Cultivars

Maintenance

Propagation

Pests and Disease

Harvesting

Cooking Ideas

A mulberry tree has oval, mitten, or heart-shaped green leaves with prominent veins and serrated margins. They shade yellow in the fall.

A close up horizontal image of ripe mulberries set on a wooden surface with a leaf partially covering them.

In the spring, nondescript green, spike-like catkins bloom.

Fruiting varieties produce multiple pink, red, black, or white drupes, which are fruits that consist of little “druplets,” each containing a seed. The average fruit is about an inch long.

Mulberries are generally monoecious, which means they bear both male and female flowers.

There are some that are dioecious, where both a male and a female tree are required for pollination.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Mulberry

Plant type: Deciduous tree

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-10

Native to: sia, Central America, North America

Bloom time / season: Spring flowers, summer fruits

Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Soil type: Organically rich, well-draining

Soil pH: 6.0-6.5, slightly acidic

Time to maturity: 4-10 years

Mature size: 12-50 ft wide x 8-70 ft high (depending on type)

Best uses: Shade, specimen, fruit tree

Taxonomy

Order: Rosales

Family: Moraceae

Genus: Morus

Species: Alba, celtidifolia, microphylla, nigra, rubra

Depending on the type you choose, home landscape options range from eight to 70 feet tall and 12 to 50 feet wide.

Early records of red mulberry consumption in North America date to the 1500s, when the Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto saw the indigenous Muskogee people eating the dried fruits.

A close up vertical image of freshly harvested ripe white mulberries in a wooden bowl.

The white mulberry (M. alba) is native to China, where for thousands of years it was cultivated as the food of choice for silkworms (Bombyx mori).

By the 1600s, a thriving silk industry in China was the envy of the British. King James sent silkworms and mulberry seeds to Virginia to begin sericulture – the raising of silkworms for silk – in America.

“Mulberry mania” took place in the 1800s, when multicaulis, a superior variety of the white species, was imported from China and prices for mulberry trees soared.

The silk produced from silkworms fed on M. multicaulis foliage was superior to that of those fed on M. alba foliage.

From 1843 to 1844, a blight killed many trees. Compounded by silkworm disease and the inflated prices from speculation, the American silk industry waned.

The fruits of this iconic tree never found a place in the commercial market, being too soft for transit and too short-lived to be profitable.

Sometimes the fruits make their way into local farmers’ markets, and are a treat when they do.

How to Grow

When provided with the right conditions, growing mulberries is easy.

Let’s take a look at their cultural requirements.

Location

Choose a location with full sun or part shade.

The spot you choose should be big enough to accommodate the large, shady canopy and equally wide root system, away from your house, overhead wires, septic tile, and underground utility pipes.

Soil

The ideal soil is organically-rich, moist, and well-draining, with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Water

After planting, water weekly in the absence of rain. As they mature, trees develop drought tolerance.

Fertilizing

Fertilize every spring using a nitrogen-rich, slow-release, granular product.

Sprinkle it manually, starting six inches out from the trunk and continuing to the edge of the leaf canopy.

Tree-Tone provides a nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium (NPK) ratio of 6-3-2 and is suitable for fruit, ornamental, and shade trees. It’s an organic ready-to-sprinkle product.

Tree-Tone

Tree-Tone is available from Espoma via Amazon.

Species and Cultivars to Select

In addition to straight species suited to Zones ranging from 4 to 10, there are cultivated varieties.

Depending upon potential restrictions in your locale, the following are options to consider:

Chaparral

M. alba ‘Chaparral’ is a dwarf weeping white cultivar with downward arching branches you can prune artistically for an umbrella effect. This cultivar does not produce fruit.

A square image of a 'Chaparral' weeping mulberry tree in the landscape.

‘Chaparral’

This option is suited to Zones 4 to 8. It has a medium growth rate and modest dimensions of eight to 10 feet tall and 12 to 15 feet wide.

‘Chaparral’ weeping mulberry trees are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Dwarf Black

This dwarf variety of M. nigra produces full-size, juicy black berries from July to September.

A square image of the yellow fall foliage of a dwarf black mulberry tree.

Dwarf Black Mulberry

It grows best in Zones 6 to 10, has a fast growth rate, and reaches 12 to 15 feet tall and wide at maturity.

Fruiting dwarf black mulberry trees are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Red

The red mulberry, M. rubra, is a North American species that produces bountiful yields of luscious red-to-purple berries from June to August.

A square image of a red mulberry tree growing in the landscape pictured in bright sunshine on a blue sky background.

Red Mulberry

Fast-growing red mulberry trees thrive in Zones 5 to 9 and reach heights of 50 to 70 feet with a 30- to 40-foot spread.

Red mulberry trees are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Maintenance

A mulberry tree is one of the easiest to care for, requiring just a little pruning during winter dormancy to remove damaged or sickly branches.

Avoid pruning in early spring when the sticky sap flows.

When it’s mature, your landscape specimen can easily transition from delight to nuisance.

As mentioned, the mulberry has attained the status of “weed” in many areas, as it self-sows effortlessly and can grow in sidewalk cracks and along building foundations.

Remove wayward seedlings in the spring while their roots are shallow, to prevent them from taking hold.

Propagation

Mulberries like to reproduce themselves which makes propagation easy.

A close up vertical image of mulberry fruits ripening on the tree pictured on a soft focus background.

You can start with seeds, cuttings, air layering, simple layering, or by transplanting a sapling from the nursery.

From Seed

If you find seed available for purchase, make sure it comes from a reliable source.

You can also harvest seeds from existing mulberries – just be aware that in the case of cultivated varieties, seeds may not grow true to the parent plant.

To harvest and sow seeds:

  1. Pick ripe fruit in late summer or early fall.
  2. Strain the fruit to remove the flesh.
  3. Rinse and air dry the seeds.
  4. Prepare to sow them immediately. Work the ground soil to a depth of eight to 12 inches, until it is loose and debris-free.
  5. Sow one or two seeds every eight to 12 inches.
  6. Barely cover them with soil.
  7. Water lightly.
  8. Natural cold stratification through the winter promotes spring sprouting.
  9. In the spring, thin the seedlings to one per interval.
  10. When they are 12-inch saplings, thin them again to accommodate mature dimensions.

Alternatively, you can save seeds for spring planting. But if you do this, you’ll need to cold-stratify them before sowing.

Here’s how:

  1. Three months before your last spring frost date, soak the seeds for two to four days in enough water to cover them. Change the water daily.
  2. Lay the seeds in a single layer on a moist paper towel.
  3. Place another moist paper towel over them.
  4. Put the seed “sandwich” in a sealed zippered plastic bag in the refrigerator at 33 to 41ºF for one to three months.
  5. Sow the seeds, two per cell, in well-draining seed trays filled three-quarters full of potting soil. Barely cover them with soil.
  6. Place the tray in bright, indirect sunlight.
  7. Water well and maintain even moisture.

When they have two sets of true leaves, transplant the seedlings to individual containers two inches wider and deeper than the root mass, or into the ground outdoors.

Alternatively, after the last frost date, sow cold-stratified seeds directly into garden soil, eight to 12 inches apart in a sunny location.

Water well and keep the soil moist.

Thin in-ground saplings when they are 12 inches tall to accommodate mature dimensions.

From Stem Cuttings

Early summer is the best time to take cuttings, so they have a chance to root well before the first frost.

A close up horizontal image of hardwood mulberry cuttings sprouting new foliage.

Here’s how:

  1. Choose a healthy, flexible branch and sever it eight to 12 inches from the tip. It should have at least three growing nodes (bud or leaf).
  2. Snip off all but the top few leaves. The bottom two to four inches must be bare.
  3. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder if you wish.
  4. Prepare containers filled with potting soil or work garden earth to a depth of eight to 12 inches until it is crumbly and free from debris.
  5. Place the cut end two to four inches deep. There should be at least one node below the soil surface.
  6. Provide bright, indirect sunlight indoors or full sun outdoors.
  7. Water well and maintain even moisture.

When you see new growth, that’s a sign the cutting has taken root.

Air Layering

Spring is the time to propagate by air layering:

  1. Select a healthy, straight stem.
  2. Measure down about a foot from the tip.
  3. Use pruners to “girdle” the stem, cutting shallowly into the outer bark layer all the way around.
  4. Make a second girdle two inches above the first.
  5. Slice vertically from the top girdle to the bottom one.
  6. Peel off the outer layer of bark between the girdles.
  7. Press a handful of sphagnum moss or potting soil around the “wound.”
  8. Encase the soil firmly in a clear plastic wrap or bag.
  9. Secure the ends with plastic zip ties.
  10. Loosen the wrap weekly to moisten the soil and reseal it.
  11. In a few months, roots will be visible.
A close up horizontal image of the process of air layering a branch of a mulberry tree, pictured on a soft focus background.

When you see roots, use pruners to remove the rooted upper stem from the lower portion as close to the root mass as possible.

Transplant into a container two inches wider and deeper than the root mass.

Maintain even moisture without oversaturation and care for the new plant in its container for the first six months to a year.

Simple Layering

Spring is also ideal for simple layering, which is similar to air-layering, except we put the stem in the soil instead of wrapping it with sphagnum moss.

This is only really applicable to specimens that have branches very low to the ground.

Here are the steps:

  1. Choose a branch close to the bottom of the plant.
  2. Press the stem until it touches the ground, making sure one or more leaf nodes are in contact with the soil.
  3. Dig a shallow depression about two inches deep and four to six inches long below the portion touching the ground.
  4. Snip off one or more leaves so the stem portion that touches the ground is leafless.
  5. Press the stem gently into the depression, making sure that one or two leaf nodes are inside.
  6. Cover the stem portion with a few handfuls of garden or potting soil.
  7. Place a rock on the mounded soil to keep the branch in place.
  8. Leave the branch in place until the following spring.
  9. In the spring, lift the rock. The stem should hold fast because it has grown roots.
  10. Detach it by cutting just below where it touches the ground.

Transplant into a container two inches deeper and wider than the root mass.

Transplanting

When transplanting from a seed starter cell or container, it’s important to note the depth of the seedling, cutting, layered stem, or sapling in its original container.

You’ll want to replicate that same depth in the landscape to reduce transplant shock.

Prepare the garden soil to a depth twice as wide and twice as deep as the root mass you intend to plant. If your sapling is substantial and wrapped in burlap, remove the wrapping.

Loosen the roots and place the tree upright in the freshly dug hole and backfill with soil to hold it in place.

Water well and tamp the soil firmly.

Fertilizer is not required at planting time.

Trees should be far enough apart to allow them to achieve mature dimensions unimpeded.

Managing Pests and Disease

Successful cultivation requires vigilant monitoring for signs of pests and disease.

The best defense against pests and disease is to meet all cultural requirements for sun, soil, and water and to practice sanitary habits, like cleaning hand tools and garden shoes after use.

Pests

Aphids, mealybugs, scale, and whiteflies are sapsucking insects that damage foliage and fruits, causing discoloration, deformity, leaf drop, and stunting in advanced stages.

A close up horizontal image of mealybugs infesting a mulberry tree stem.

Stem borers are beetle larvae that burrow into trunks and branches. Species in the Oberea genus are common in the United States and target mulberries.

As they feed, they create tunnels of dead plant tissue that can kill branches and entire trees. Remove affected stems immediately and destroy them. Insecticides may not be effective.

Disease

There are a variety of diseases that may affect your mulberry trees. Here are the main ones to be aware of:

Bacterial Blight

Telltale signs of mulberry bacterial blight, caused by Pseudomonas syringae pv. mori, include watersoaked leaf lesions and wilted, desiccated foliage at the branch tips.

Control measures include pruning affected portions and treating with a liquid copper fungicide.

Canker

Cankers are dark lesions on the bark caused by numerous species of fungi, including those in the Cytospora and Dothiorella genera.

Prune dead material and ensure you support plants with adequate watering and fertilizing, as weak specimens are most vulnerable.

False Mildew

False mildew, from the Mycosphaerella mori fungus, is a disease mainly seen in the south, with symptoms presenting on the leaf undersides, including white, powdery patches, and a web-like appearance.

Destroy affected leaves and apply a copper fungicide.

Leaf Spot

Various fungi, including Cercospora moricola and Cercosporella spp., cause leaf spot.

Symptoms include tan spots bordered by red, and advanced cases may lead to defoliation. Remove affected foliage and apply a liquid copper fungicide.

Popcorn Disease

Popcorn disease, which is common in southern regions, adversely affects mostly white mulberries, disrupting ripening, but not overall tree health.

It is caused by a fungus, Ciboria carunculoides. Remove all affected fruit and dispose of it in the trash. A Bordeaux mixture of copper sulfate and lime is the treatment of choice.

Powdery Mildew

If you have ever grown zucchini or pumpkins, you’ll likely be aware of powdery mildew. This fungal condition shows up as a white dusting on the surface of the leaves.

We have a guide to powdery mildew which details how to identify and treat this common condition.

Root Rot

Southern cotton root rot, caused by Phymatotrichum omnivorum, and mushroom root rot, caused by Armillaria mellea fungi, are most likely to affect trees rendered vulnerable by injury to their roots and/or poor health.

Symptoms include wilting and lower leaf drop. Pruning away affected roots, improving drainage, and treating with a copper fungicide may save the tree.

Harvesting

Depending on the type you are growing, you can expect to begin harvesting mulberry fruits when your tree is between four and 10 years old.

A close up horizontal image of ripe and unripe mulberries growing on the tree pictured on a soft focus background.

Picking is easy – too easy. When they are ripe and ready to harvest, the slightest touch to fruit or branch releases the berries. And unless you are overly vigorous, those still green or pale in color remain attached.

The best way to gather them is to put old, clean sheets around the tree’s base and gently shake the branches to release their bounty. The fruit-stained linens are easy enough to wash and reuse the following year.

Mulberries do not keep well, so plan to wash, eat, preserve, or cook them immediately. Discard any that are deformed, discolored, malodorous, mushy, or pest-infested.

Cooking Ideas

What can you do with these culinary delights?

Mulberries are a tasty addition to any recipe requiring berries. However, they are very juicy and may water down your creations.

Try them as a substitute for raisins, toss them into salads, pancakes, or muffins, or feature them in your next shake or smoothie.

Are you a wine aficionado? Imagine the possibilities!

A close up horizontal image of an open palm holding a few mulberry fruits, pictured on a soft focus background.

As the Native Americans understood, mulberry fruits and leaves have healthful properties we now know and appreciate as antioxidants.

We can dry the berries – albeit with a dehydrator – as they have long done, to avoid wasting any of our precious harvest.

100 Years of Shade

Mulberry trees provide shelter and fruit for generations, living for 100 years or more.

A close up horizontal image of a large mulberry tree growing in the landscape.

If you’ve been considering one, it’s time to make the best decision for your outdoor living space and your community. Just be sure to check ahead of time whether planting a mulberry is permitted in your area!

Will a low-maintenance native red mulberry be your next landscape specimen? Or maybe a dwarf weeping variety? Please tell us what you decide in the comments section below.

And for more information about growing berries in your landscape, we recommend these guides next:

  • How to Plant and Grow Elderberries
  • How to Grow and Care for Serviceberries
  • The Ultimate Fall Berry Planting Guide
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© Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Originally published February 12, 2019 by Linsey Knerl. Last updated February 28, 2025. Product photos via Espoma and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock.

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About

Nan Schiller

Nan Schiller is a writer with deep roots in the soil of southeastern Pennsylvania. Her background includes landscape and floral design, a BS in business from Villanova University, and a Certificate of Merit in floral design from Longwood Gardens. An advocate of organic gardening with native plants, she’s always got dirt under her nails and freckles on her nose. With wit and hopefully some wisdom, she shares what she’s learned and is always ready to dig into a new project! More Posts Subscribe Notify of new follow-up comments new replies to my comments guest Label {} [+] Name* Email*

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49 Comments Oldest Newest Most Voted Inline Feedbacks View all comments Maria Raquel Ayala Fariña Maria Raquel Ayala Fariña (@guest_1192) #1192 7 years ago

What a nice work. Thank you. I am from Paraguay and this country is a big garden… so much to learn.

2 Reply Stacy Jett Stacy Jett (@guest_1515) #1515 7 years ago

Thank you for the article- I love my mulberries- just wish the birds didn’t love them as much as I do – it’s a race to get to them. I can’t imagine wanting a “non fruit bearing” tree.

9 Reply Jason Jason (@guest_2708) #2708 6 years ago

I got beautiful mulberry trees from BayLeaf nursery on Amazon. They arrived quickly and were very healthy despite being in the mail for a few days, very well packaged. They had very thick stems for their size. They must have been cut back. They already made fruit after just a few weeks. I chose the dwarf everbearing mulberry. I got 4 trees since they sell them in bundles of 2. I can’t wait til next summer. I may have sweet fruit every day.

2 Reply Liz Liz (@guest_3215) #3215 6 years ago

Do mulberry trees only fruit when more than one tree is around? I’d love one in my yard, but im not sure I would have room for two. I grew up eating these berries and would love to be able to provide that experience for my son.

0 Reply Allison Sidhu Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu) #3271 Reply to Liz 6 years ago

What a lovely experience to pass along to your son, Liz. They’re so delicious, aren’t they?

Some types of black mulberry are monoecious, so you’ll only need one plant to get harvestable berries. But keep in mind that even with self-pollinating plants that produce both male and female flowers, you’re likely to get a larger harvest with multiple plants in the area, and higher pollination rates as a result. Wishing you the best of luck!

2 Reply Katie Olsen Katie Olsen (@guest_4306) #4306 Reply to Liz 6 years ago

You don’t need more than one to have them fruit. They’re like figs in the sense the just create fruit without flowering if you get a fruiting type. The non fruiting has flowers and reaps havoc for people with allergies. Some states have banned the non fruiting types. I have a Shangrila, ever bearing, and black Pakistani. So delicious and they love deep watering. Im in las vegas. So far so good ????

3 Reply Cécile Stelzer-Johnson Cécile Stelzer-Johnson (@guest_4144) #4144 6 years ago

Thank you for all your encouragements to try mulberries. They are indeed a most generous tree with wonderful, sweet berries. I have 26.[ Yes, I know, I went a little bit overboard]. Not at all like blackberries that taste odd after freezing or with seeds that get caught in your teeth: The seeds are tiny and unobtrusive. My honey bees like them and birds do too. The trick of placing a painter’s cloth underneath will help. If you see rain coming, wait till after the rain: The berries will be partially washed off bugs for you. Mine are just starting… Read more »

4 Reply Nan Schiller Nan Schiller (@guest_4200) #4200 Reply to Cécile Stelzer-Johnson 6 years ago

Hello Cécile –

We’re so happy to hear of your success with mulberries in Zone 4. Twenty-six, wow! Thanks for sharing, we’ll be right over for ice cream with mulberry syrup!

1 Reply Laura Laura (@guest_4240) #4240 Reply to Nan Schiller 6 years ago

Can a tree be kept smaller by keeping it pruned?

2 Reply Fuad Efendiyev Fuad Efendiyev (@guest_5213) #5213 Reply to Nan Schiller 6 years ago

I have few hundred on a very small 50’x100′ property, Morus Alba & Morus Rubra hybrids, invasive species. Haven’t you heard? Minus 45 Celsius is not an issue for them.

1 Reply Bob barker Bob barker (@guest_4270) #4270 6 years ago

I dissagree, mullberries dry beautifully. Like candy.

7 Reply penny penny (@guest_4305) #4305 Reply to Bob barker 6 years ago

How are you drying them?

5 Reply Enedina Enedina (@guest_4479) #4479 6 years ago

Hi my house has a tree that suddenly started to grow mulberries at least i think they are. It used to be a tree that would bloom these beautiful white puffy flowers until my father cut it down halfway and hadn’t grown new branches for a while. Is this possible? Im wondering if it would be safe to eat since they look quite smaller than pictures ive seen, we live in metro Denver and the soil at our house might be bad where the tree is located.

-1 Reply Allison Sidhu Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu) #4482 Reply to Enedina 6 years ago

That does sound rather unusual, and you should always err on the side of caution when experimenting with new wild edibles. Changes in weather patterns, availability of nutrients, and pruning can cause sudden changes in the ability to produce a harvest from year to year, for various types of trees. What do the leaves look like? What do the berries look like while they’re growing, and when they ripen? Can you send a photo? Mulberries don’t have any common poisonous lookalikes, and different types can vary a bit in appearance, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry! If… Read more »

1 Reply celia celia (@guest_4918) #4918 6 years ago

I have a weeping mulberry but I am getting more tree like branches then weeping. If I prune these branches will it encourage the weeping branches to form. The weeping branches produce fruit, the regular ones do not.

0 Reply Patricia Weaver Patricia Weaver (@guest_5096) #5096 6 years ago

I bought an Everbearing Mulberry Tree from Fast growing trees 2 years ago. It was 2 feet when I bought and planted it and now it’s 10 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Very healthy looking but it has never grown any fruit or flowers so what’s up with that? Does anyone know?

0 Reply Allison Sidhu Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu) #5101 Reply to Patricia Weaver 6 years ago

Where are you located, Patricia? Everbearing mulberries are typically known for being very productive, given the right growing conditions and care. They’re tolerant of cold, partial shade, salt, drought, and poor soils, and they tend to grow quickly as well, in a range of soil pH levels. It may simply be that your tree is still too young to produce fruit- trees grown from seed can require 10 years or more to begin producing, and the 2-foot sapling that you planted was probably on the young side. Give it another two years or so, and with any luck, you’ll begin… Read more »

3 Reply Mysterious one Mysterious one (@guest_11923) #11923 Reply to Patricia Weaver 4 years ago

I think that you should prune the plant and give it some food pruning the plant can help the plant focus on the flowers and fruit instead of the leaves

0 Reply Rhonda Prater Rhonda Prater (@guest_5255) #5255 6 years ago

I was given 8 mulberry saplings at the beginning of the summer. We are in the process of relocating so did not want to plant on the property we are selling so I planted them in 5 gallon pots in a high quality potting soil. The buckets have small holes in the bottom for drainage and the saplings have thrived well. We have purchased our new property and I would like to plant them now instead of trying to winter them. We are just now entering fall and have not had a freeze yet. Is it safe for me to… Read more »

0 Reply Allison Sidhu Allison Sidhu(@allison-sidhu) #5257 Reply to Rhonda Prater 6 years ago

To protect your saplings, I’d recommend keeping them in containers for now, if you can. Mulberry is cold hardy, but planting in the spring is recommended, to give young trees the best chance of setting roots and becoming established. Where are you located? Do you have a full-sun location on your new property, with fertile soil that drains well and a neutral pH, and plenty of space to grow? If any amending is required, it would be best to do that now if needed, then wait until spring to plant. Plants growing in containers are tolerant of frost, but you… Read more »

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