How To HAND SEW - Best Beginner Tutorial - Treasurie Blog

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Learn hand stitching and how to hand sew a seam the easiest way with this tutorial. The two most common ways to do hand sewing are using either a running hand stitch or a backstitch. They are not always as strong as using a sewing machine, but sometimes you can’t beat the convenience of sewing by hand. This article will show you how to hand sew as well as go through the best hand sewing stitches.

How to Hand Sew Tutorial

If you have a quick alteration, sewing project or something to mend, then hand stitching is a great way to quickly get the job done with a minimum of tools and without getting your sewing machine out of the cupboard.

This article goes through numerous different methods of hand sewing depending on what you are trying to achieve.

Hand sewing can be done for

• Sewing or fixing seams
• Decorative embroidery
• Sewing hems

Why Should You Hand Sew Instead of Using a Machine?

There are 2 main reasons why hand sewing is better than using a machine. These are to do with greater precision and control and the ease of use of sewing by hand.

Hand sewing gives you greater control when sewing delicate fabrics or intricate areas. It is great for basting difficult pieces before sewing with a machine. Blind hems with a hand stitch give beautiful invisible results that you just can't get with a sewing machine.

When you are sewing small or simple projects, it can be much faster to grab a needle and thread than to get your machine out of the cupboard. You can also take your sewing project anywhere, which is very appealing.

Supplies for Hand Sewing

• FABRIC: Scrap piece of fabric for your project to be sewn. For beginners, the easiest fabric to sew is a light to medium-weight cotton called quilting cotton.
• NEEDLES: Hand sewing needles come in assorted sizes.
• THREAD: A strong thread in a matching color. I have used a contrast thread for my sample photos but you will find using a matching color will be more forgiving and the stitches will be invisible.
• TAILOR's CHALK or removable fabric pen for marking.
• RULER or measuring tape
• SHARP SCISSORS
• LIGHTS: You will need good lighting! Sit near a window or a bright lamp. You will be amazed at the great results you will get with decent light. If you wear glasses, these are essential so go and find them now.
• SEAM RIPPER - Because we all make mistakes some days.

What is the Best Needle for Hand Sewing?

Choose a hand sewing needle type that suits your thread and fabric. If you are sewing woven fabric, then choose a sharps needle in an appropriate size for your thread. Most fabric stores have packets of needles in assorted sizes, so you always have an appropriate size handy.

Here are the top 5 types of hand sewing needles and what you can use them for.

Needle Type	Description	Common Uses
Sharps	Medium length, sharp point, and small eye.	General-purpose sewing, embroidery, buttonholes.
Embroidery (Crewel)	Longer than sharps with a larger eye and a sharp point.	Embroidery, decorative stitching, appliqué.
Quilting (Betweens)	Short and sharp with a small eye.	Quilting, detailed handwork, layers of fabric.
Tapestry	Large eye, blunt point, and medium length.	Cross-stitch, needlepoint, and other woven fabrics.
Ballpoint	Similar to sharps but with a rounded point.	Knits and stretch fabrics, avoids snagging threads.

What is the Best Thread for Hand Sewing

If possible, try and avoid the threads that come in a sewing kit. They tend to be of poor quality and tangle easily. This will make you think that learning how to hand sew is harder than it really is.

Instead, choose an all-purpose polyester thread or cotton thread of good quality. When you are learning, avoid dark colors of thread. The reason for this is that they are hard to see. Black, in particular, can be hard to sew neatly.

How to Hand Sew a Seam - Step by Step Instructions

Step 1 - Thread the Hand Sewing Needle

Start by threading a needle, either double or single, and knotting the end of the thread.

Just hold the needle up to the light and put the cotton through the eye. A sharp pair of scissors to trim the end will be your best friend. Don't even try to put a ragged end through the eye of the needle. It won't work.

If your cotton is thin, then double it over, then knot the ends together. Thicker threads, such as embroidery floss, can be threaded singularly.

Best Thread Length for Hand Sewing; Overly long threads tend to tangle so try starting with a maximum length of 12 inches (30cm). So if you are threading the needle with a double thread, cut 24 inches.

For completely new sewers, I have an article on how to thread a needle that will help you. Needles are easily threaded by learning how to use a needle threader. This little silver device will thread the needle for you, so you don't need to squint and get frustrated.

Step 2 - Insert the Needle into the Fabric

Pin the fabric seam together to hold it in place before you hand sew.

Put the needle in the wrong side of the fabric up to the top. The knot will catch underneath and stop the thread from pulling through.

Always try and start somewhere your knot will be hidden. Look for a fold of fabric or start somewhere the knot won't be visible from the outside finished item.

You've started! On you go.

Step 3 - How to Hand Sew a Seam

There are 2 main ways how to hand sew a seam.

1. Running Stitch
2. Backstitch

How to Hand Sew with Running Stitch

Running stitch is one of the easiest and fastest hand stitching methods. Use this method if this is your first time sewing or if you have a seam that will only be under a small amount of stress. This basic hand stitch is also good to use as a basting stitch to hold pieces of fabric together before the final stitching.

Running stitch is not quite as strong as backstitch, but considering how easy it is to do, it is certainly a great option.

Running Stitch Hand Sewing Instructions

1. Put your fabric with the right sides together.
2. We will be stitching on the wrong side of the items so that when your seam is the right way out, the stitches will be hidden on the inside.
3. Insert the needle into the fabric and make small up-and-down stitches of even length.

For right-handed sewers, you will find it easiest to work from right to left. Left-handed sewers will work the opposite way from left to right.

For seams, I recommend evenly spaced gaps and stitches. As you gain confidence, you will be able to sew several stitches at once in an up and down motion.

The smaller your stitches, the stronger your seam will be. Start with small stitches that are ⅛ inch (3mm) or ¼ inch (6mm) for thicker fabrics. Click here for how to sew a running stitch step by step.

How to Hand Sew with Backstitch

Backstitch is a hand stitch that will give you a nice strong seam and is great for repairing clothing and for small sewing projects as a substitute for using a sewing machine. Put your fabric pieces with right sides together, ready to sew the seam.

1. First, put the needle up through the fabric from underneath at (1) and insert it down a short distance away (2).

If you are a beginner, test sewing your backstitch seam with stitches that are at most ¼ inch (6mm) in length. The smaller the stitches are, the better. See if you can get it down to ⅛ inch (3mm) once you have the hang of this stitch.

2. Then take a small backstitch in the fabric inserting it in at (4) which is the same as the original position (2).
3. Bring the needle up in front of (3) at an equal distance at position (5).

4. Now just keep repeating. Your needle will go in at position (3) next.

How to Hand Sew a Seam with More Stitches

Running stitch and backstitch are certainly the easiest, but they are not the only way to hand stitch a seam.

There are 2 more options you can use:

1. Whipstitch - Uses an over the edge motion or diagonal stitches and is great for sewing felt seams and for mending holes in seams. It has the advantage of sealing the edges and is very easy for beginners.
2. Ladder Stitch (Slip stitch or invisible stitch) - Gives an invisible finish and is great for closing gaps in seams and mending holes. It is created by sewing in the fold of the seam from the outside and passing the needle from side to side.

Below shows you what the finished ladder stitch looks like. I used a contrast thread so you could see my stitching, but this stitch is almost invisible when you use a matching thread and take small stitches.

Now you know how to hand sew a seam, what will you be using these easy hand stitches for?

Step 4 - How to Finish Hand Sewing

Once you have finished your hand stitching, you will need to knot off the thread so it doesn't come undone.

To finish your hand stitches, take a very small stitch backward, and before you pull the loop tight, put the needle through it to form a knot.

Do this a couple of times and then cut off the tail thread.

How to Hand Sew with Embroidery

As well as sewing seams, hand sewing is used extensively to embroider and decorate items.

Embroidery is a relatively cheap hobby and is really relaxing. All you need is some fabric, an embroidery hoop, and some embroidery floss.

The best needles to embroider with are crewel needles which have a longer eye to pass thicker threads through. Read my article on embroidery tools.

If you want to start learning how to embroider, here are some articles that will help you get on your way.

1. Backstitch
2. Blanket Stitch Instructions
3. Buttonhole Stitch
4. Chain Stitch
5. Chevron Stitch
6. Couching Stitch
7. Cross Stitch
8. Double Herringbone Stitch
9. How to Embroider
10. Faggoting Embroidery
11. Feather Stitch
12. Fern Stitch
13. Fishbone Stitch
14. Fly Stitch
15. French Knots
16. Hand Embroidery Stitches
17. Herringbone Stitch
18. Lazy Daisy
19. Running Stitch
20. Sashiko Embroidery
21. Satin Stitch
22. Seed Stitch Embroidery (Rice Stitch)
23. Stem Stitch
24. Straight Stitch
25. Web Stitch | Embroidery Tutorial
26. Whip Stitch

How to Hand Sew Hems

Hems can be hand-stitched with a variety of stitches. You can make your hems almost invisible using many of these hemming stitch techniques.

Stitches that can be used to hand stitch a hem include:

• Slip Stitch (great for invisible results)
• Catch Stitch (great for thicker fabrics)
• Running Stitch (easiest method)
• Blanket Stitch (use for a decorative edge)
• Blind Hem Stitch (gives an invisible look on the outside.)

How to Hand Sew with Slip Stitch

Slip stitch is one of the most commonly used hand stitches and is barely seen on the right side of the garment.

1. Start by pressing your up the hem twice so the raw edge is encased in the fold.
2. Thread a needle with either double or single thread. I like to use double but for very fine fabrics like silk, a single is suitable.
3. Bring the needle up in the fold of the fabric so the knot is hidden.
4. Working right to left, put the needle into the fold of the hem.
5. Bring the needle up to the top of the fabric and take a really small stitch that is just a few threads wide. This is what will show on the outside so make it small.
6. Repeat.

Read more about how to hand sew a hem in my hemming stitch article.

How to Hand Sew with Blanket Stitch

Hems and hand stitches, in general, don't need to be invisible. They can be decorative and done in beautiful contrasting and complimentary colors. Blanket stitch is a great option for hems on blankets, linens and baby clothing.

1. Press the hem up twice so the raw edge is encased.
2. Knot your thread and put the needle through the fold to hide the knot.
3. Put the needle down through the fold and out at the bottom edge.
4. Make sure the thread is behind the needle and pull through.
5. Read the full article on blanket stitch.

How to Hand Sew FAQs

What is the Best Stitch for Sewing By Hand?

The best stitch for sewing by hand is the backstitch. This hand stitch is strong and will not break, particularly if you use small stitch lengths. The easiest and fastest, on the other hand, is the running stitch. This is a basic hand stitch that uses a simple up and down motion.

How Can I Sew Faster by Hand?

While hand sewing is generally slower than using a machine, there are a few things you can do to speed it up including using a longer needle as it will hold more fabric, using a thimble to push the needle through, and having some pre-threaded needles on hand. Always mark your seam lines first. Sewing accurately means less unpicking.

What is the Strongest Seam Stitch by Hand?

The strongest hand seam stitch is definitely the backstitch. This basic hand sewing stitch uses a back-and-forth motion to reinforce the stitches. It is even stronger if you can sew stitch lengths of ¼-1/8 inch.

What is the Best Stitch to Mend a Seam?

The best hand stitch to mend a seam is the ladder stitch. This is also known as the invisible stitch or slip stitch. This stitch goes back and forth over the gap created and pulls tight to form an invisible mended seam. It is important to use a matching thread color.

How to Hand Sew - In Conclusion

Now you can hand sew; it is time to go and make something! Hand sewing can enhance and complement machine sewing as well as be a relaxing hobby.

More Hand Stitching Articles

• PART 1 – 6 Basic Hand Stitches
• PART 2 – How to Hand Sew a Seam
• PART 3 – How to Sew Whip Stitch
• PART 4 – How to Backstitch
• PART 5 – How to do Blanket Stitch
• PART 6 – How to Sew a Ladder Stitch

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