How To Level A Toilet (with Pictures) - WikiHow

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Terms of Use wikiHow is where trusted research and expert knowledge come together. Learn why people trust wikiHow How to Level an Uneven Toilet Yourself PDF download Download Article Plumbing pros explain how to level a wobbly toilet bowl Co-authored by Dave Jones and Amy Bobinger, BA

Last Updated: December 6, 2025 Fact Checked

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  • Using Shims
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  • Fixing the Closet Flange
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  • Things You'll Need
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This article was co-authored by Dave Jones and by wikiHow staff writer, Amy Bobinger, BA. Dave Jones is a Professional Plumber and the Midwest Regional Vice President at Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. In 1992, Jones joined Roto-Rooter as a drain service technician at the age of 18. Since then, he has risen through the ranks into positions of increasing authority. Dave served as general manager of Roto-Rooter’s Charlotte, North Carolina, and Atlanta, Georgia branches before being promoted to Contractor Area Manager and later to Regional Vice President. Dave holds Master Plumber Licenses in Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Georgia. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 60,280 times.

If your toilet wobbles whenever you use it, you may need to level it. But don't worry—you don't have to be an experienced handyman to level a toilet. In some cases, it’s a quick fix, but even more in-depth repairs can be a DIY job. We’re here with everything you need to know about how to fix your wobbly toilet, including expert tips from handyman Patrick Johns and master plumber Dave Jones.

How do you level a toilet?

  1. Use a level to find out which side of the toilet needs to be raised.
  2. Take off the bolt caps and use a wrench to loosen to hex nuts.
  3. Push plastic or rubber shims under the base of the toilet to level it.
  4. Tighten the bolts, then trim the shims to size.
  5. Caulk around the base of the toilet if it has stopped wobbling.

Steps

Section 1 of 2:

Leveling a Toilet on an Uneven Floor with Shims

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  1. Step 1 Use a level to determine where the toilet is unlevel. 1 Use a level to determine where the toilet is unlevel. Johns says that the first step to leveling an uneven toilet is to “find out where it’s not even.” To do this, set a level on top of the toilet tank or toilet seat.[1]
    • If the bubble is higher on the left side of the level, you need to raise the right side of the toilet, and if the right side is higher, you need to raise the left side of the toilet.
  2. Step 2 Remove the bolt caps and loosen the hex nuts. 2 Remove the bolt caps and loosen the hex nuts. There are two bolt caps on the base of the toilet that secure it to the floor. Pry off the bolt caps to reveal the hex nuts, then loosen the bolts with a wrench.[2]
    • Even if you only need to raise one side of the toilet, loosen the bolts on both sides—this will make it easier to insert the shims where you need them.
    • In some cases, the toilet may be wobbly because these nuts are loose. If that’s the case, simply tightening the nuts may be enough to fix the wobble—put the bolt caps back on and you’re finished!
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  3. Step 3 Wedge shims under the base of the toilet to level it. 3 Wedge shims under the base of the toilet to level it. Push rubber or plastic shims between the base of the toilet and the floor. It can help to gently tap the shims with a hammer to wedge them under the toilet. Start with 1–2 shims on the side that you need to raise—but depending on how uneven the floor is, you may need to use more than that. Continue adding shims until the toilet feels even and level. [3]
    • Avoid using wood shims—the humidity in a bathroom can cause them to deteriorate, and your toilet will start wobbling again.[4]
    • If you don’t have toilet shims, stainless steel washers can also work, but you won’t be able to trim them to size.
    • If your toilet still seems wobbly even after adding multiple washers or shims, you may need to make larger adjustments. Remove the toilet to adjust the closet flange if adding washers or shims has no effect on how level it is (more on this below).
  4. Step 4 Re-tighten the hex nuts once the toilet is steady. 4 Re-tighten the hex nuts once the toilet is steady. Once the toilet has stopped wobbling, tighten the hex nuts again with your wrench. Place the bolt caps on top of the hex nuts to keep them secure so they don't loosen later on.
    • Don’t trim the shims until after you’ve tightened the nuts in case you need to make minor adjustments.
  5. Step 5 Cut any excess material off of the shims. 5 Cut any excess material off of the shims. Once the toilet is level and the bolts are tightened, use a utility knife and carefully cut the shims down to size along the base of the toilet. Or, if you prefer, mark each shim with a permanent marker, then pull them out one by one and cut them down to size with cutting pliers.
    • If you pull the shims out to cut them, only pull out one at a time—that way, the remaining shims will hold the toilet in place and you won’t have to adjust it again.
  6. Step 6 Test the toilet for wobbliness again. 6 Test the toilet for wobbliness again. Sit on the toilet again and rock back and forth or use a carpenter's level to test how even it is. If the toilet is level enough to your liking, it’s now fixed. If not, you may need to make additional adjustments.[5]
  7. Step 7 Caulk the toilet to the floor if the problem is fixed. 7 Caulk the toilet to the floor if the problem is fixed. If adding washers or shims fixed the problem, Johns recommends caulking around the base of the toilet to get a finished look.[6] Use a caulk gun to squeeze a bead of caulk around the toilet’s base on the front, left, and right sides. Smooth out the bead using your finger, then wipe your finger on a wet rag.
    • Caulking the toilet keeps the shims and washers secure.
    • Leave about a 4–6 in (10–15 cm) space in the back of the toilet where you don’t caulk. That way, if the toilet leaks in the future, the water will spill out onto the floor and you’ll be able to see—and fix—the problem right away.
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Section 2 of 2:

Removing the Toilet & Fixing the Closet Flange

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  1. Step 1 Turn off the toilet's water supply and empty the tank. 1 Turn off the toilet's water supply and empty the tank. Find the toilet's shut-off valve, usually near the back of the toilet and connected to the wall. Jones advises turning the valve handle clockwise to shut off the water. Then, “flush the toilet repeatedly until most of the water is out of the tank and use a sponge to soak up the remaining water in the tank.”[7]
  2. Step 2 Disconnect the water supply line from the tank. 2 Disconnect the water supply line from the tank. The water supply line is the tube that connects the shut-off valve to the toilet. Jones says to “use an adjustable wrench to remove the water supply line from the bottom of the toilet tank.”[8]
  3. Step 3 Remove the closet bolt caps on each side of the toilet. 3 Remove the closet bolt caps on each side of the toilet. Next, Jones says to locate the bolt caps on the bottom of your toilet. “Remove the bolt covers at the base of the toilet pedestal to reveal the bolts and nuts.” Then, unscrew the hex nuts with your wrench to detach the toilet from the floor.[9]
    • Jones says to completely remove the nuts and washers before removing the toilet.[10]
  4. Step 4 Lift the toilet and set it aside. 4 Lift the toilet and set it aside. To remove the toilet, Jones advises to “stand up and grasp the front of the bowl and the back of the tank. Be sure to keep your back straight. Begin lifting the toilet straight upward using your legs to lift. It should come free of the bolts and the old wax ring that sealed it to the floor.”[11]
    • Toilets can be heavy and unwieldy. If you're not confident in your strength, have another person help you lift the toilet and move it out of the way as you work.[12]
    • Toilets can leak after they've been removed from the floor. Jones recommends sitting it on a towel or some newspapers until you're ready to reattach it.[13]
  5. Step 5 Remove the wax ring to expose the closet flange. 5 Remove the wax ring to expose the closet flange. The closet flange is a round, flat tube with a cylinder on the bottom. “Use a large flathead screwdriver to pry up the old wax ring and remaining remnants,” says Jones.[14]
    • You won’t re-use the wax ring, so it’s fine to throw it away.
  6. Step 6 Check the closet flange for damage. 6 Check the closet flange for damage. Jones recommends cleaning off the flange with “a household cleaner and an old rag” so you can see it clearly.[15] If the flange is bent or cracked, use a pry bar to pry it out of the drain hole, then purchase a new closet flange in the same size and place it in the same spot as your old closet flange.
    • If the flange has any chips or cracks, it could be causing the toilet to wobble or leak.
    • In newer homes, the closet flange may be fixed to the drain with PVC glue. If that’s the case, buy a repair flange to fit over the existing one. Use a level to make sure the repair flange is level, then screw it into the floor.
    • If the flange is damaged and glued in place, it will need to be cut out. It’s probably best to have this done by a professional.[16]
  7. Step 7 Check for rotten or damaged flooring. 7 Check for rotten or damaged flooring. Inspect the flooring for mold, mildew, or signs of decay. If the subfloor is rotten or severely damaged, it will need to be fixed by a professional unless you have previous experience replacing flooring. Call a home repair business to determine the severity of the damage and whether the flooring will need to be replaced.[17]
    • If the floor is uneven but not damaged, you could cut out a plywood base slightly larger than the toilet. Place it under the toilet so it sits on a flat surface, and cut a hole in the center of the plywood for the closet flange.
  8. Step 8 Install new closet bolts into the closet flange. 8 Install new closet bolts into the closet flange. Discard the old closet bolts—they’re inexpensive, and it’s better just to replace them than to use old, rusty bolts. Screw the closet flange back into the drain hole with new bolts using a wrench. Make sure you tighten the bolts as much as you can, as loose or damaged bolts can cause wobbly toilets.[18]
  9. Step 9 Install a new... 9 Install a new wax ring over the closet flange. Get a wax ring with a rubber flange and place it on top of the closet flange, centering it as evenly as you can. Jones recommends “following the directions on the wax ring packaging to ensure it’s installed properly.”[19] Press the ring tightly to seal it to the closet flange and prevent it from slipping out of place as you attach the toilet again.
    • Do not reuse the wax from your old wax ring.
    • Replacing the wax ring helps to reseal the toilet and prevent leaks.
  10. Step 10 Put the toilet back in place and reattach it to the floor. 10 Put the toilet back in place and reattach it to the floor. Lower the toilet back in alignment with the removed hex nuts and bolt caps. According to Jones, “You’ll probably need a second person to help you guide the base so that the bolts fit through the holes on the base of the toilet.”[20] Tighten the hex nuts back in place with a wrench and cover them with the bolt caps.
    • Jones says that you may need to “use a hacksaw to cut some of the excess length off the bolts. Be sure to leave at least 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) of bolt above the nut so the covers can fit over them securely.”[21]
  11. Step 11 Test your adjustments. 11 Test your adjustments. Sit down on your toilet or use a carpenter's level to check its reading. If you don't notice any wobbling and do not feel like you're sitting at an angle, the toilet may be level. Once you’re finished, Jones says to “reconnect the water supply line to the tank and rotate the shutoff valve counterclockwise to turn the toilet back on.”[22]
    • If the toilet seems more even but is still slightly wobbly, add shims or washers to the bottom.
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Expert Q&A

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  • Question Why is my toilet rocking back and forth? Patrick Johns Patrick Johns Home Improvement Specialist Patrick Johns is a Home Improvement Specialist and the Owner of CatchAll Handyman Services. With more than 28 years of experience, he has worked on a variety of home improvement projects, such as carpentry, plumbing, and door and window installations in both commercial and residential properties. Patrick Johns Patrick Johns Home Improvement Specialist Expert Answer Your floor might not have been completely level when your toilet was installed. This is especially common with tile floors. Thanks! We're glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow Yes No Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0
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Video

Tips

  • Stuff a rag in the drain hole while you work on the toilet to block out sewer gases. Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 1
  • For the sake of hygiene, wash your hands frequently while leveling your toilet. Sanitize the entire bathroom when you’re finished with the project. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 1
Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published Name Please provide your name and last initial Submit Thanks for submitting a tip for review! Advertisement

Things You'll Need

  • Screwdriver
  • Wrench
  • Sponge
  • Towel or old newspapers
  • Replacement closet bolts (optional)
  • Stainless steel washers or plastic shims
  • Carpenter's level
  • Closet flange (optional)
  • Wax ring (optional)

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References

  1. Patrick Johns. Home Improvement Specialist. Expert Interview
  2. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/how-to/a18145/how-to-stop-your-toilet-from-rocking/
  3. https://youtu.be/7grH77WJ1bE?t=43
  4. https://youtu.be/7grH77WJ1bE?t=28
  5. https://youtu.be/7grH77WJ1bE?t=97
  6. Patrick Johns. Home Improvement Specialist. Expert Interview
  7. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  8. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  9. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
More References (13)
  1. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  2. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  3. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ask-toh/rocking-toilets
  4. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  5. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  6. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  7. https://youtu.be/ChRwVmDkQMM?t=171
  8. http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/interior-projects/how-to/a18145/how-to-stop-your-toilet-from-rocking/
  9. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/plumbing/21016124/how-to-fix-a-wobbly-toilet
  10. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  11. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  12. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview
  13. Dave Jones. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. Expert Interview

About This Article

Dave Jones Co-authored by: Dave Jones Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup This article was co-authored by Dave Jones and by wikiHow staff writer, Amy Bobinger, BA. Dave Jones is a Professional Plumber and the Midwest Regional Vice President at Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup. In 1992, Jones joined Roto-Rooter as a drain service technician at the age of 18. Since then, he has risen through the ranks into positions of increasing authority. Dave served as general manager of Roto-Rooter’s Charlotte, North Carolina, and Atlanta, Georgia branches before being promoted to Contractor Area Manager and later to Regional Vice President. Dave holds Master Plumber Licenses in Pennsylvania, North Carolina, and Georgia. This article has been viewed 60,280 times. 1 votes - 100% Co-authors: 6 Updated: December 6, 2025 Views: 60,280 Categories: Toilet Maintenance In other languagesSpanish
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Yes No Advertisement If you buy through links on our site, we may earn a commission.Cookies make wikiHow better. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Dave Jones Co-authored by: Dave Jones Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Water Cleanup Co-authors: 6 Updated: December 6, 2025 Views: 60,280 100% of readers found this article helpful. 1 votes - 100% Click a star to add your vote

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