How To Make A Worm Farm (with Pictures) - WikiHow

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Terms of Use wikiHow is where trusted research and expert knowledge come together. Learn why people trust wikiHow How to Make a Worm Farm PDF download Download Article Co-authored by Janice Tieperman Reviewed by Ben Barkan

Last Updated: June 5, 2025 Fact Checked

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  • Assembling the Worm Bin
  • |
  • Introducing the Worms
  • |
  • Sealing off the Bin
  • |
  • Maintaining the Worm Farm
  • |
  • Video
  • |
  • Q&A
  • |
  • Tips
  • |
  • Warnings
  • |
  • Things You'll Need
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This article was reviewed by Ben Barkan and by wikiHow staff writer, Janice Tieperman. Ben Barkan is a Garden and Landscape Designer and the Owner and Founder of HomeHarvest LLC, an edible landscapes and construction business based in Boston, Massachusetts. Ben has over 12 years of experience working with organic gardening and specializes in designing and building beautiful landscapes with custom construction and creative plant integration. He is a Certified Permaculture Designer, Licensed Construction Supervisor in Massachusetts, and a Licensed Home Improvement Contractor. He holds an associates degree in Sustainable Agriculture from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources. This article has been viewed 140,184 times.

Worm farms are bins or containers of bedding, compost, and worms that help produce worm casings—a super nourishing fertilizer for plants. Despite the name, you don’t have to live on a large property to make your worm farm. As long as you live in a relatively warm area and have some basic gardening supplies, you’re ready to get started.[1] In as quickly as 3 months, you may be able to harvest some nourishing casings for your own garden!

Steps

Part 1 Part 1 of 4:

Assembling the Worm Bin

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  1. Step 1 Poke twenty 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes in the bottom of 2 large plastic bins. 1 Poke twenty 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) holes in the bottom of 2 large plastic bins. Flip 2 large, 8 to 10 US gal (30 to 38 L) plastic bins upside down so the bottoms are facing up. Drill around 20 large holes along the bottom of each bin, which will make it easier to harvest worm casings later on.
    • If you don’t have an electric drill on hand, measure out multiple large holes along the bottom of the bin and cut them out with a box cutter.
    • The easiest way to do this is make a grid of 5 rows and 4 columns.
  2. Step 2 Drill small holes that are 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) apart along all sides of the bins. 2 Drill small holes that are 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) apart along all sides of the bins. Replace the large bit with a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) bit. Create a line of small holes that are about 1 1⁄2 in (3.8 cm) apart just below the rim of each bin. For extra ventilation, drill a second line of holes around the bin that’s about 4 in (10 cm) below each bin’s rim.
    • It’s important that your worm farm gets a lot of air, which will help them stay healthy and well-nourished.
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  3. Step 3 Create 30 holes on both bins’ lids with a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) drill bit. 3 Create 30 holes on both bins’ lids with a 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) drill bit. Make the holes even by drilling 5 rows and 6 columns of small holes along the lids. Set these lids aside for later, since you’ll need them when the worm farm is fully assembled.
  4. Step 4 Cut a newspaper into thin, 1 in (2.5 cm) strips. 4 Cut a newspaper into thin, 1 in (2.5 cm) strips. Take 50 sheets of black-and-white newspaper and begin cutting or ripping it into smaller strips. Don’t use any colored sections of newspaper, as the dyes may be bad for the worms.
    • You’ll probably need about 10 lb (4.5 kg) of newspaper to make enough bedding for your farm.
  5. Step 5 Soak the cut newspaper in lukewarm water for 1 day. 5 Soak the cut newspaper in lukewarm water for 1 day. Place the newspaper strips in a large bucket or basin of lukewarm water. Let them sit for around a day so they can soak up as much water as possible. Once 24 hours pass, squeeze any leftover water out of the strips and set them aside.
    • You don’t want the strips to be sopping wet, but more like the consistency of moist soil.
  6. Step 6 Arrange the wet newspaper strips in the bottom 8 in (20 cm) of the bin. 6 Arrange the wet newspaper strips in the bottom 8 in (20 cm) of the bin. Lay out the strips in your plastic bin. Keep in mind that the newspaper serves as the base of the bedding, and will take up the most space in the bin. Place this down first, so the worms have a comfortable place to call home.[2]
  7. Step 7 Add in a handful of leaves on top of the newspaper. 7 Add in a handful of leaves on top of the newspaper. Grab some old leaves from your yard or sidewalk and arrange them on top of this newspaper. This gives your worms more material to work with as they nest.
    • It’s not a big deal if you don’t have leaves lying around.
    • You only need to use a thin layer of leaves for this, as the newspaper will be the bulk of the bedding.
  8. Step 8 Mix a scoop of dirt into the bin. 8 Mix a scoop of dirt into the bin. Pick up a large portion of soil with a garden trowel and layer it on top of the newspaper and leaves. Note that dirt helps worms digest their food, which will improve your worm farm in the long run.[3]
    • Like the leaves, the dirt can be dumped in a thin layer on top of the newspaper and then mixed in.
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Part 2 Part 2 of 4:

Introducing the Worms

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  1. Step 1 Place a piece of wet cardboard outside overnight to collect some worms. 1 Place a piece of wet cardboard outside overnight to collect some worms. Soak a piece of cardboard under running tap water until it’s dripping wet. Arrange this cardboard somewhere outside on a section of open soil. Leave the cardboard out overnight, then check the next day to see how many worms have gathered.
    • Red wigglers are a great worm to include in your farm, since they can be found in a lot of different places.[4]

    Tip: If you don’t feel like catching your own worms, you can buy some at a store that sells fishing bait.

  2. Step 2 Weigh the worms on a scale to see if you have 1 lb (0.45 kg). 2 Weigh the worms on a scale to see if you have 1 lb (0.45 kg). Transfer the worms to a small bucket or container and place it on a scale. Subtract the weight of the bucket to get an idea of how heavy the worms are. For a beginner worm farm, start off by raising 1 lb (0.45 kg) or so of worms.
    • It’s important to know how many worms you have, so you know what to feed them.

    Did You Know? You can find about 500 worms in 1 lb (0.45 kg).

  3. Step 3 Transfer the worms into your bin. 3 Transfer the worms into your bin. Pour the worms into the bedding and let them get comfortable in the newspaper, soil, and leaves. Don’t worry about moving the worms around manually—they’ll find their way around the farm soon enough.[5]
  4. Step 4 Add 1⁄2 lb (0.23 kg) of food scraps when first starting your farm. 4 Add 1⁄2 lb (0.23 kg) of food scraps when first starting your farm. Save your food scraps after each meal in a large bag, then spread them on top of the bedding. Start by adding a small amount of food scraps, like egg shells, fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, dryer lint, and leftover cereal and pasta.[6]
    • Common scraps like apple skin, carrot peels, leftover cereal, discarded coffee grounds, and leftover lint from your dryer are great options to include in your bin.
    • Don’t add leftover meat, animal waste, oily food, leftover dairy products, citrus peels, or onion scraps to your worm bin, as these foods will entice other pests.
    • Worms will have an easier time eating your food scraps if you break them into small chunks.[7]
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Part 3 Part 3 of 4:

Sealing off the Bin

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  1. Step 1 Insulate the top of the bin with a piece of dry newspaper. 1 Insulate the top of the bin with a piece of dry newspaper. Take a dry section of black-and-white newspaper and layer it on top of the food and bedding. This can prevent your worm farm from smelling really bad, and stops fruit flies from hovering around your farm.[8]
    • You can also use a piece of wet cardboard instead, as the worms will eat this over several months.
  2. Step 2 Place your perforated lid on top of the worm farm. 2 Place your perforated lid on top of the worm farm. Grab 1 of your lids and secure it on top of the bin. Check that your worm farm has plenty of air and drainage so it stays in great condition.
  3. Step 3 Stack the worm farm in a second bin to help with drainage. 3 Stack the worm farm in a second bin to help with drainage. Place your second, perforated lid face-down in a flat area. Arrange your worm farm in the empty, perforated bin, which you can put on top of the upside-down lid. To give your bins more height, stack them on 4 upside-down cups.
    • If your lid catches any leftover liquid from the worm farm, you can use it as liquid fertilizer.
    • Sturdy plastic cups may be a good option for this.
  4. Step 4 Move the worm farm to an open area that’s between 60 and 80 °F (16 and 27 °C). 4 Move the worm farm to an open area that’s between 60 and 80 °F (16 and 27 °C). Find an outdoor or indoor area that’s a warm temperature. While your worms will be okay between 40 to 60 °F (4 to 16 °C) or 80 to 90 °F (27 to 32 °C) temperatures, they’ll really thrive in warm conditions.
    • Worm farms do well in a variety of places, like a laundry room, shady outdoor area, garage, or beneath a kitchen sink.
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Part 4 Part 4 of 4:

Maintaining the Worm Farm

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  1. Step 1 Increase the food scraps you add over the next few weeks. 1 Increase the food scraps you add over the next few weeks. Give your worms time to adjust to their new surroundings. After giving them small rations of scraps for 1-2 weeks, slowly add more food to the bin until you’re feeding the worms twice their body weight in scraps. Choose a specific time each week to refill the bin with food scraps so your worms stay nourished.[9]
    • You may want to mix some of the food scraps beneath some of the newspaper. This can prevent fruit flies from hovering around.
  2. Step 2 Replace the top piece of newspaper on an as-needed basis. 2 Replace the top piece of newspaper on an as-needed basis. Keep an eye on the insulation newspaper and see if it looks soggy or mushy. Remove the wet newspaper and replace it with a clean, dry sheet, so your worm farm stays fresh and insulated.
    • It may help to have a container of dry newspaper near your farm for safekeeping.
  3. Step 3 Fluff and spritz the newspaper bedding with water to keep it damp. 3 Fluff and spritz the newspaper bedding with water to keep it damp. Slip on a pair of gloves and move around the bedding to give your worms some fresh air. If the bedding seems dry, spray over it with lukewarm water until it’s slightly wet.[10]
  4. Step 4 Replace the bedding as it gets used up by the worms. 4 Replace the bedding as it gets used up by the worms. Examine the bedding whenever you tend to your worm farm. As the worms use up the bedding, add in 2 in (5.1 cm) of wet newspaper strips.[11]
    • You may need to replace the bedding if it starts getting really smelly or if fruit flies start gathering around.
  5. Step 5 Harvest the worm casings after about 3-6 months. 5 Harvest the worm casings after about 3-6 months. Look for a black, dirt-like substance collecting in your worm farm. Slide on some gloves and push this black dirt to 1 side of the bin, while pushing the bedding and food to the opposite side. Scoop out these worm casings and place them in a bucket or pot so you can put them to good use.[12]
    • Over time, your worms will start leaving the casings on 1 side of the bin and living in the other side.
  6. Step 6 Incorporate the casings in your gardening as a source of compost. 6 Incorporate the casings in your gardening as a source of compost. Add the casings to your potted plant soil in a 1:3 ratio, or use it to fertilize the different plants in your garden. To make a liquid fertilizer or “tea,” soak the casings in water, then transfer the liquid to a watering can.[13]
    • For instance, you can add 1 to 2 in (2.5 to 5.1 cm) of worm casings along the base of the plants in your garden, like cucumbers, tomatoes, or your favorite perennial flower.
    • Worm casings aren’t great for woody trunks and stems, so steer clear of those.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question Can worm farms just be a jar with dirt and food or do I need a bigger container Janice Tieperman Janice Tieperman Community Answer Worm farms are generally made with a large container like a plastic bin or bucket, so you can harvest a lot of casings eventually. Thanks! We're glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow Yes No Not Helpful 6 Helpful 7
  • Question Should I wet the soil for my worms if it gets dry? Janice Tieperman Janice Tieperman Community Answer Yes! If the newspaper bedding and soil mixture begin to dry out, spritz them with some water. If you end up spraying too much water, add some dry newspaper strips to your worm farm instead. Thanks! We're glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow Yes No Not Helpful 2 Helpful 9
  • Question If doing a worm farm outside any concerns about high temps and how do you resolve that Janice Tieperman Janice Tieperman Community Answer Worms are pretty hardy and can live in temperatures up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius). Ideally, worms do best in warm temperatures, so try and find a shady area to keep your worm farm. Thanks! We're glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow Yes No Not Helpful 1 Helpful 6
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Tips

  • Plastic bins aren’t the end-all-be-all for worm farms. You can use whatever large containers you have lying around, like a bucket or styrofoam container.[14] Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
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Warnings

  • While worms thrive on most food waste, they don’t like leftover meat, oily foods, pet waste, citrus fruits, leftover dairy, or onions.[15] Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
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Things You’ll Need

  • 2 8 to 10 US gal (30 to 38 L) bins
  • Electric drill
  • 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) drill bit
  • 1⁄16 in (0.16 cm) drill bit
  • Newspaper strips
  • Leaves
  • Dirt
  • Wet cardboard
  • 1 lb (0.45 kg) of worms
  • 2 lb (0.91 kg) of food scraps
  • Dry newspaper
  • Gloves
  • Water
  • Bucket or basin

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References

  1. https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/worm-composting
  2. https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/worm-composting
  3. https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/worm-composting
  4. https://www.rhs.org.uk/soil-composts-mulches/worm-composting
  5. https://compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/steps.html
  6. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/
  7. https://compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/steps.html
  8. https://compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/steps.html
  9. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/
More References (6)
  1. https://compost.css.cornell.edu/worms/steps.html
  2. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/
  3. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/
  4. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/
  5. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CvCCuvi6eHw&t=1m43s
  6. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/worm-composting/

About This Article

Ben Barkan Reviewed by: Ben Barkan Garden & Landscape Designer This article was reviewed by Ben Barkan and by wikiHow staff writer, Janice Tieperman. Ben Barkan is a Garden and Landscape Designer and the Owner and Founder of HomeHarvest LLC, an edible landscapes and construction business based in Boston, Massachusetts. Ben has over 12 years of experience working with organic gardening and specializes in designing and building beautiful landscapes with custom construction and creative plant integration. He is a Certified Permaculture Designer, Licensed Construction Supervisor in Massachusetts, and a Licensed Home Improvement Contractor. He holds an associates degree in Sustainable Agriculture from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. This article has been viewed 140,184 times. 54 votes - 82% Co-authors: 12 Updated: June 5, 2025 Views: 140,184 Categories: Compost Mulch and Soil Preparation In other languages Italian Japanese
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