How To NEVER Have To Clean Your Shop Vac Filter - Shop Hacks

Shop Vac Filters - NEVER have to clean your shop vac filter again with this DIY system!

7/15/2019

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• How to organize your tools without feeling overwhelmed
• The Ultimate DIY Air Filtration System - A step-by-step how to build your own system that outperforms a $500 Powermatic air cleaner.​

• Never requires you to touch the filter again
• Improves the filtration efficiency of your vac system
• Allows you to mount your vac out of the way to reduce noise

• How cyclone separators work
• Why a cyclone separator is not enough to create a maintenance free system
• The differences between shop vacs and dust extractors

1. Cleaning a shop vac filter exposes you to the dust you want to avoid
2. What if I told you that you never have to clean your shop vac filter again?
3. How do I know this system is safe?
4. Why don't manufacturers make all shop vacs this way?
5. ​What's the secret to NEVER having to clean your shop vac filter?
6. Benefits of never having to touch your shop vac
7. How to build your own maintenance free shop vac system
8. Shop Hacks maintenance-free shop vac system recommendations
9. Deep Dive - More options and more insights for the curious...

• How do cyclone separators work?
• Do you still need to use a filter with a cyclone separator?
• Shop vac cyclone separators options?
• How to make your own cyclone separator.
• Choosing a collection bin
• Choosing a shop vac
• Shop vacs vs. dust extractors - is there a difference?

​This is a picture of my 3-year-old shop vac filter that has never been cleaned. It has over 700 hours of vacuuming CNC router (a tool that cuts wood all day long) dust from various types of woods and composites and it still works like new. As you can see, the filter has very little dust in it. Even after 700 hours of use it still flows air like it did the first day.

Who likes having to clean your dirty shop vac filter? You take it out, hold your breath and beat it on the ground and/or blow it out with compressed air and install it back into the vacuum. You end up wearing and breathing the dust that you bought the filter to protect you from in the first place! Not to mention, there's never a convenient time to clean a shop vac filter. It always needs to be cleaned in the middle of a job.

Not only have I never had to clean or change my filter, it still cleans my workshop air as I'm using the vacuum. Even when I'm vacuuming fine dust from cutting MDF, the air quality in my workshop (measured by a Dylos DC1100 Pro laser particle counter) remains in the "very good" range and particle counts do not rise at all. If you want to save a few dollars and don't mind buying somewhere other than Amazon then click HERE for more options and a lower price. That's not an affiliate link but the price difference is enough that I want you to be aware of it.

You might ask yourself, "If there's a way to design a shop vac so that you never have to clean a filter again then why don't the manufacturers design shop vacs this way?". The answer is simple. It is very similar to the situation with home vacuum cleaners 20 years ago... the technology to make home vacuum cleaners bagless had been around for many decades but it was more profitable to sell bags than it was to sell bagless vacuum cleaners. It wasn't until Dyson gained enough market traction with his bagless "cyclone technology" vacuum ​ that manufacturers were forced with a decision to either fall behind or adapt their vacuums to consumer demand. Dyson integrated a 50+ year-old technology into home vacuum cleaners and totally disrupted the entire market.

In the same way, workshop vacuum manufacturers make a lot of $$$ selling filters. The technology has been around for decades to make a shop vacuum that never requires the filter to be cleaned but manufacturers won't be willing to change until someone disrupts the market with a product that forces them to give up their cash cow... new filters! It appears that focus on profits outweighs concerns to offer customers the best product possible. Although some shop vac manufacturers are starting to integrate cyclones into their systems, the practice hasn't become widespread yet.

• You save time and money
• You don't have to breathe or wear the dust that you bought your filter to protect you from in the first place

• in the attic
• in a ventilated cabinet or utility room
• outside of your workshop
• from the ceiling in an unused area

1. The Dust Sheriff DIY Standalone Cyclone Separator ($9.95 for plans)
2. A Home Depot or Lowes 5-gallon bucket or 5-Gallon Bucket with Sealed Lid ($8 amazon)
3. Ridgid VF3502 High Efficiency, Dry Pickup Dust Bags for 12 - 16 Gallon Ridgid Wet / Dry Vacuums ($18.97 Amazon, 2 Pack)
4. Ridgid VF6000 Genuine Replacement 5-Layer Allergen, Fine Dust, and Dirt Wet/Dry Vac Filter for Ridgid 5-20 Gallon Vacuums($29.95 Amazon)
5. The Ridgid WD1450 14-Gallon 6-Horsepower Wet/Dry Vacuum ($188 Amazon)​​

1a. The Dust Sheriff DIY Cyclone Separator ($9.95 for plans)After testing the Dust Deputy and the Dustopper I designed a cyclone that you can build yourself in under an hour . The Dust Sheriff flows 30% more air than the Dust Deputy and separates 5x more fine dust (corn starch used for testing).The Dust Sheriff is also the only cyclone separator that includes an optional integrated filter inside the cyclone housing.

1b. The Dust Deputy DIY Standalone Anti-Static Cyclone Separator ($50 Amazon)I bought the Dust Deputy because it was the only mainstream shop vac cyclone available when I was researching this topic. I have tested the Dust Deputy and it removes over 95% of very fine dust like corn starch. It removes closer to 98% of most dust produced by common equipment such as routers , table saws and the like. It removes 100% of larger particles such as chips from a planer. It doesn't perform as well as the Dust Sheriff but it is a solid choice for anything but the finest dust.There are more expensive and cheaper models from different brands available. I will cover them in a following section. They are all about the same efficiency give or take a few percent.

1c. Dustopper High Efficiency Dust Separator, 12 in. dia, with 2.5 in hose, 36 in. long ​($48.75 Amazon, $40 through Home Depot)I haven't personally used or tested the Dustoppper but I feel comfortable recommending it because I've designed and tested several cyclone separators just like it. I include it in my recommendations list because it has one specific advantage over the Dust Deputy... it has a much lower height allowing the vacuum hose to connect much lower to the ground. This makes it more stable than the Dust Deputy which is very unstable unless you have it mounted to a cart or some other stable structure.The Dustopper is likely slightly less efficient when it comes to removing very fine dust such as drywall or wood sanding dust. If you plan to use your cyclone for a lot of very fine dust applications then use the Dust Deputy or one of the other cone shaped cyclones. Otherwise, the Dustopper should work great. If you like the low profile of the Duststopper or the lower price then it is a good choice for most situations.​

2. A 5-Gallon Bucket with Sealed Lid ($8 Amazon)You will need a receptacle under the cyclone to catch most of the dust and debris. You can use this link but if you live near a Home Depot or Lowes you can find buckets and lids cheaper there.​

3. Ridgid VF3502 High Efficiency, Dry Pickup Dust Bags for 12 - 16 Gallon Ridgid Wet / Dry Vacuums ($18.97 Amazon, 2 Pack)This is the bag that I use. I suggest NOT using a high efficiency bag since the shop vac cartridge filter will handle the very fine particles and a high efficiency bag is likely to clog up before the end of the life of the shop vac. This link is for a 2-pack of bags. You probably won't need the second bag but if you get into vacuuming very fine dust, like drywall dust, it is possible you may need to replace the bag at some point so a having a second bag is handy.​

4a. Ridgid VF6000 Genuine Replacement 5-Layer Allergen, Fine Dust, and Dirt Wet/Dry Vac Filter for Ridgid 5-20 Gallon Vacuums ($29.95 Amazon)This filter is made from HEPA rated material. That means the material will capture 99.97% of all particles 0.3 microns or larger. I recommend this filter if you frequently vacuum particles that you may be sensitive to. This is Ridgid's highest rated filter. You will lose a small amount of flow rate over time using this filter but it won't be noticeable and this filter offers a high level of protection.

4b. Ridgid VF5000 - 3-Layer Pleated Paper Vacuum Filter ($21.89 Amazon)This filter is rated slightly lower than the VF6000 but I still didn't detect a rise in particle counts in my shop while using it so I recommend this filter if you would prefer a slightly higher flow rate with a slight reduction in filtration efficiency. Either of these two filters will work well.​

5. The Ridgid WD1450 14-Gallon 6-Horsepower Wet/Dry Vacuum ($188 Amazon)​ I like this vacuum because it flows more air than most shop vacs that cost 3x as much (200 CFM vs 150 or less). It has a foam liner around the impeller housing (Scroll Noise Reduction Technology) which reduces the high frequency noise which makes it much easier on the ears. I would not call it "quiet" but it doesn't have that annoying high pitched whine than most shop vacs have. I have over 700 hours of use on mine and it is still running like new.​

Power Tip to make your system completely "no touch" . ($11.99 Amazon)By adding a remote power switch you can turn the vacuum on and off even if it is mounted out of reach. I use this switch which is rated for up to 15 Amps. I've tried other remote switches that all eventually failed within 6 months or so. This switch has lasted well over a year now.Think about the possibilities now that you don't have to worry about emptying your vac anymore. Just run a flex hose from the vac to some 2.5" or 3" PVC to the top of the cyclone separator and collection bin which can be mounted on the wall.

​Prevent implosion with a simple fix - My shop vac can easily implode any 5 gallon plastic bucket and most trash cans. To avoid this problem I cut out a plywood ring to a size that allows it to press fit about halfway down the bucket. This adds just enough strength to the bucket to prevent it from collapsing when the hose gets blocked.

1. A brushed motor with a closed impeller to pump air. Typically around 1200 Watts with a free flow rate of around 150 to 200 CFM and produce between 3 to 4 psi of vacuum when the hose is blocked.
2. One or more filters
3. A bin to collect the dust and debris

1. Noise suppression
2. Speed control
3. A more efficient form factor
4. Most "extractors" use quality bearings and brushes for their motors. Some shop vacs do and some do not.
5. Auto start power receptacles

• Filtration. If you use the setup I recommend in this article and you are NOT vacuuming toxic materials then a shop vac will offer enough filtration to prevent detectable increase in the particle counts in your work area (for particles >0.5 microns). If you are vacuuming toxic materials then you need to invest in a certified HEPA vacuum.
• Flow Rate. Most dust extractors flow around 150 CFM and use 1.5" hoses which are much more restrictive than the 2" ID hoses used with most shop vacs. The Ridgid shop vac I use flows closer to 200 CFM. You will see reviews comparing which vac sucks up water the fastest or how high it will raise a ball in a tube but, honestly, how often do you use your shop vac to suck up water or to lift balls in the air? Those tests are designed to favor particular vacuums. The only thing that really matters is how many CFM does your vacuum flow in the configuration that you use it in 80% of the time. Some dust extractors use motors that produce 20% more pressure when the hose is blocked. This extra pressure may help when connected to tools with very small dust ports (less than 1" ID) but it creates a lower maximum flow rate when the tool is used with an open hose. Either way, you won't notice a very significant difference between most dust extractors and most full size shop vacs in terms of pressure or flow rate.
• Noise Level. This, in my opinion, is the single most beneficial feature of dust extractors vs. shop vacs. The two dust extractors listed above operate at a very comfortable noise level with no annoying high pitched whine. They include a speed control that allows you to turn the speed of the vacuum motor down which lowers the noise level even more.
• Auto-start power plugs. Dust extractors include auto-start power plugs that turn the vacuum on when you start a tool that is plugged in. This is handy for tools like sanders because you don't have to turn the vac on and off each time you turn the tool on and off. Everything is automatic. For some work flows this could be a very valuable time saver. You can buy such plugs for a shop vac too to make it work the same way. One caution... most of these vacs draw around 11 amps from a 110 VAC outlet. That only leaves a few amps more until you reach the limit of a 15 amp breaker. You can get by running a sander and the vacuum on the same circuit as long as there are no other significant power draws on that circuit but you may find yourself kicking a breaker otherwise.
• Durability. I've talked to a lot of people who swear their shop vac died a painful death after just a year of light use and there are others who claim that the vacuum their great great grandfather brought from Germany is still running like new (joke ;-). I can tell you that my shop vac has over 700 hours of use and it is still running like new on the original bag and filter. There are differences in motor bearing and brush quality so it is hard to say which models will provide more life. I think it is safe to say that the very best vacuum motors should not be expected to operate more than 1000 hours before the brushes wear out or the bearings fail. To date, no one that I know of uses brushless motors in their vacuums. When they do you can expect the vacuum to last at least 6000 hours before the motor wears out. It is bound to be on the drawing board by now.
• Ergonomics. This is another area where dust extractors have a significant advantage over shop vacs. They are designed with a rectangular form factor that makes them more volume efficient . You can easily store a dust extractor in a small space . The Festool system also allows stacking of storage containers on top of the vacuum which is very helpful to some users. Shop vacs are still manufactured in a cylindrical geometry for some reason. Maybe manufacturers will wise up one day and stop throwing away over 20% of the capacity they could have if they made designed their units with a rectangular form factor.

It's a great point that cleaning the shop vacuum will create a lot of dust that you don't want to breathe in. My uncle is worried about all the dust he has breathed in over the years. He needs to get a dust collector so that his air is clean and easy to work in.

Very well detailed guideline you provide. Your post is fulfill with unique information. I am very glad to see such a great post. Can you please provide me some price range? Thanks in advance.

Great article, gotta try those filter bags (never thought to do that). I’d add a couple of items to this article. The remote control outlet is good, but even better if you are using this for a CNC router is to use a triggered remote outlet. This is just like the one you show, except it also has 2 pins on the side that take 12VDC. I’ve connected that to the “flood coolant” pins on my x-carve’s x-controller. In my CAM I tell it to turn on the coolant by default. So now the shop-vac starts when the router spins up (also controlled by a triggered outlet connected to the spindle pins). The downside of this is since I have no idea where the little remotes are, to start the shop vac for my other tools or to vacuum I need to go onto the CNCJS console and manually turn on coolant... The one item not mentioned in the article is static electricity control. Static electricity in dust collection systems is dangerous and can interfere with electronics (such as the x-controller on an x-carve). I own the dust deputy, and I bought it with the conductive plastic option. I also ran copper tape down the cyclone making sure it made contact with the hose and metal collection bin underneath. The hosing I used is all conductive and most importantly grounded (via connection to the metal wire inside (per the manufacture’s recommendations). Also the electrical engineer who checked it out for me, mentioned I needed to ground it to the same ground as the x-carve (so I have a ground-only plug on the the same outlet as the x-carve). This completely eliminated interference on the x-controller, and greatly reduced the chance of a dust explosion.

That's good to know that shop vacs can last thousands of hours. My brother is considering getting a workshop for his business. I'll make sure he finds a durable vacuum.

Thank you for writing this

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