How To Plant Potatoes In A Raised Bed - New Life On A Homestead

The first time I ever heard someone talking about planting potatoes from seed, I wondered to myself, “Where are the seeds in potatoes? I’ve never seen seeds.” I was completely serious.

I can laugh at myself now, knowing what I know, but for those who are starting out where I started out (completely naïve), let me fill you in.

This, my friends, is a “seed potato”– otherwise known as an old, sprouting potato spud. Once planted, those sprouts will grow into beautiful green plants, and the developing roots will form brand new potato tubers in the ground below.

I have to warn you though, potato genetics are funny, and most of the time you never know what kind of potato you’ll end up harvesting when planted from a true seed. It is likely it will not be the same kind of potato you originally planted. Might be a fun thing to experiment with though!

My seed potatoes are potatoes that are leftover from last year’s harvest. They’ve been sitting in a crate in my kitchen since last Fall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmi8pb8F2jI

They shriveled before we could get to them, so I let them sit and sprout, waiting to be repurposed in this year’s garden.

Every now and then, I sorted through them and removed any rotten potatoes. There weren’t many, but a few.

I love growing colored potatoes alongside our white ones. These purple and red potatoes have gorgeous sprouts, don’t they?

Over the years I’ve tried many different ways of planting potatoes. I’ve tried planting in post holes, traditional mounds, trash cans, using the “no dig” method, planting in tubs… all of which had pretty dismal results.

Planting in raised beds has by far provided the most abundant crops. We harvested over 100 lbs of potatoes last year from two 5′ x15′ raised beds! I’ll definitely continue planting in raised beds from now on.

Selecting Seed Potatoes

Head to the grocery store, and you’ll find only about a half a dozen different kinds of potatoes. On the contrary, when you start shopping for seed potatoes from your favorite seed company, you will find hundreds of types. You’ll be able to have much more control over what you grow – and how.

Do some research before purchasing your seed potatoes, though. It’s important to have an understanding of which types of potatoes will grow best in your area, as well as what the seed potatoes were treated with.

Make sure you only purchase seed potatoes from a reputable dealer to ensure that they are disease free and have been treated to prevent rot.

When you are shopping for seed potatoes, you will generally have three varieties to choose from: early season, mid-season, and late season.

Early season potatoes generally reach maturity within 75 to 90 days. These potatoes are popular if you have a very short growing season. Some of the most popular options include Yukon Gold, Norland, and Irish Cobbler potatoes.

Mid-season potatoes take about 95 to 110 days to mature. Popular options include:

• Catalina
• French Fingerling
• Ida Rose
• Kennebec
• Red Pontiac
• Rose Finn Apple
• Yukon Gem
• Viking
• Gold Rush
• Purple Viking

Finally, late season potatoes are those that mature in the latest days of the growing season, taking up to 135 days to mature. Some of the most popular include Katahdin, which is resistant to verticillium potato wilt as well as bacterial wilt, as well as:

• Butte
• German Butterball
• Purple Peruvian
• Carola
• All Blue

I love growing colored potatoes alongside our white ones. These purple and red potatoes have gorgeous sprouts, don’t they?

Ways to Plant Potatoes

Over the years I’ve tried many different ways of planting potatoes. I’ve tried planting in post holes, traditional mounds, trash cans, using the “no dig” method, planting in tubs… all of which had pretty dismal results.

Planting in raised beds has by far provided the most abundant crops. We harvested over 100 lbs of potatoes last year from two 5′ x15′ raised beds! I’ll definitely continue planting in raised beds from now on.

When you’re planning out your potato garden, you should keep in mind that you have way more planting options with your spuds than you do with other types of plants.

Here are some of the most popular ways to plant potatoes – and once you’re done reviewing them, keep reading. I’ll tell you about my absolutely favorite way to plant potatoes!

Trench Planting

Trench planting, also known as planting in hilled rows, is one of the easiest and definitely the cheapest ways to plant potatoes. All you have to do is dig shallow trenches about three feet apart in fertile soil.

You’ll plant your potatoes twelve inches from each other and over them with a few inches of additional soil. When your potato shoots are about one foot tall, you’ll mound soil against the plants – or “hill” them. You will do this multiple times throughout the season to ensure your potatoes are covered.

An inexpensive option, this method of growing requires no movement or soil or any building at all. However, if you have heavily compacted soil or infertile soil, it might not be the best. Plus, it’s not the greatest method when it comes to controlling weeds and moderating moisture.

Mulch Planting

Many people like the economics of planting in rows but don’t like the increased susceptibility to weeds and drought. Mulch planting can eliminate these concerns.

To do this, you will plant your potatoes in the exact same way as you would when trench planting. However after you plant, you will cover your rows with a few inches of loose straw. Instead of mounding soil as the plants grow, you will mound up straw.

This method is prized because it conserves moisture and reduces the amount of weeds = you have to deal with it. However it produces a significantly smaller yield of potatoes and it doesn’t help to keep rodents and other pests away from your plants!

Wire Cylinders

If you have a super wet yard to contend with, planting in a wire cylinder might be your best bet. To do this, you will want to use hardware cloth with thin mesh to make a cylinder that is roughly 18=24 inches in diameter. It should be about two feet tall.

You’ll fill with soil part of the way, then plant a few seed potatoes before covering them with more soil. You will add more soil as the potatoes become taller and larger. Harvesting is easy, since all you will have to do is lift back the soil.

This growing method is best for people in wet areas because the wire mesh provides drainage and prevents the soil from becoming waterlogged. However, it does not produce the highest yields since you can’t plant that many seed potatoes in this amount of space.

Grow Bags

If you’ve ever ordered from a seed catalog – which I’m guessing you have – you have probably seen commercial grow bags for sale. These are usually made out of dense polypropylene and are a great way to plant seed potatoes.

You will simply fill one with some soil or compost before adding three or four pieces of seed potato. Then you’ll cover with three more inches of soil, adding soil until you have filled the bag.

When it’s time to harvest, all you have to do is dump the bag out. It’s as easy as that! This method is perfect for people who need to plant on a patio or where the garden soil is nutrient deficient. However, the bags aren’t cheap, making this a cost-prohibitive option.

Garbage Bags

Lots of people like the benefits of planting in grow bags yet don’t have the cash necessary to do this – that’s where the idea of planting in garbage bags comes in.

This idea works great in theory –after all, shouldn’t it function in a similar fashion as a grow bag? – but you might have some issues with drainage. Plus, garbage bags aren’t super aesthetically appealing. The plastic can allow the soil to become too hot, too, which can limit tuber formation.

Raised Beds

Without a doubt, planting in raised beds can produce some of the highest yields in your potato garden.

You can use all kinds of materials for a raised bed, including beds made out of traditional wood, metal, or plastic. You can also repurpose materials like old tires and drums to create makeshift, virtually free raised beds.

While you’ll still have the expense of adding soil to your raised beds, potatoes grown in beds usually are much healthier and numerous than those grown in the ground. Your spacing and planting recommendations will remain the same as in the trench method of planting.

When you plant in a raised bed, there are tons of benefits. You’ll have fewer weeds, less compaction, and less tilling. Plus, you can often plant more potatoes closer together.

How to Plant Potatoes in a Raised Bed

Here’s how to plant potatoes in raised beds. You’ll love how easy it is…

How to Make and Prepare a Raised Bed for Planting

You can build a raised bed out of a variety of materials. Here’s a basic guide on raised beds but know that they can be made from just about any kind of material, including:

• Cinder blocks
• Rock
• Concrete
• Old tires
• Steel
• Galvanized metal
• Wood (untreated options like cedar, Douglas fir, redwood, and black locust are best)

How Deep Does a Raised Bed Need to Be For Potatoes?

The answer is that it depends on the type of potato you’re growing. For early or baby potatoes, a depth of 8-10 inches is usually sufficient. Maincrop potatoes will need a minimum depth of 12 inches, because they will produce larger tubers.

Of course, deeper beds will give your potatoes more room to grow, so if you have the space, it’s always better to err on the side of too much rather than too little.

How Many Potatoes Can I Plant in a 4×4 Raised Bed?

The answer to this question depends on a few factors, including the type of potato you are planting and the spacing between plants.

For example, if you are planting Yukon Gold potatoes, you will need to allow for about 9-12 inches between plants. This means that you could potentially fit up to 16 Yukon Gold potatoes in a 4×4 raised bed.

However, if you are planting Russet potatoes, which can grow to be quite large, you will need to allow for more space between plants. As a result, you might only be able to fit 8-10 Russet potatoes in a 4×4 raised bed.

In addition to the type of potato you are planting, the spacing between plants will also depend on how you intend to harvest them. If you want to harvest your potatoes by digging up the entire plant, you will need to allow for more space so that the plants can swell without crowding each other.

However, if you plan on harvesting your potatoes by gently digging around the base of the plant and only removing what you need, you can get away with planting them closer together.

What Happens if I Plant My Potatoes Too Shallow?

If you plant your potatoes too shallow, the tubers may not develop properly and the plants may not produce a good yield. The tubers need to be buried deep enough so that they can develop a strong root system.

If they are planted too shallow, the roots will not be able to anchor the plant properly and it may topple over when it starts to produce fruits or vegetables.

Additionally, shallow planting can also lead to potatoes being exposed to sunlight, which can cause them to turn green and develop a bitter taste.

For best results, plant your potatoes at least eight inches deep. This will give them enough room to develop properly and produce a bountiful harvest.

Planting the Potatoes

Once your raised bed is built and filled with soil, you can start planting.

To do this, first, dig a long trench for your potatoes to be buried in. I use a hoe and dig down as deep as I can to the hard soil at the bottom of the raised bed, about a foot deep.

You want to at least be able to cover your potatoes completely with soil. Space the rows about 18″ apart.

If you have a limited supply of seed potatoes, you can cut them into quarters or halves, making sure each chunk of the potato has a sprout or eye on it- otherwise it won’t grow a plant.

If you plan on cutting your potatoes, give them a couple of days to “cure” so the cut side can dry up. Curing reduces the chances that your seed potato gets a disease.

Chitting the Potato

Most people allow their potatoes to “chit” or sprout before planting. This is done by placing the eggs in shallow trays with shoots facing upwards. Put the tray in the sunlight, protecting it from frost and extreme heat. You will want to let the potatoes sprout for about six weeks.

Chitting is not mandatory, but it can help. If the potatoes have already begun to sprout or if you have a variety of potato that is early-maturing and want an even earlier harvest, chitting can be a smart choice. Make sure you do this at least one month before your planting date!

When you’re ready to plant, you can choose to cut your potatoes or not to cut them. Some people do this in order to stretch their seed potatoes out a little bit, helping to make more from their money.

While the choice is up to you as to whether you do this or not, know that cutting your potatoes does increase the likelihood of rot.

If you choose to cut your potatoes before planting, cut them so that each piece has at least one eye. You can have more than one eye per potato, but you need to make sure there is at least one to ensure production. The potato also needs to be relatively large – at least an ounce.

Let your cut potatoes cure in a cool, humid place for about three days. Then, you can go ahead and plant.

I don’t cut my seed potatoes anymore because I have more than enough to plant our beds using whole potatoes. When you put the sprouting potato in the ground, make sure the sprouts are facing up. Space each seed about a foot apart in rows.

Once the rows are filled, cover the potatoes with dirt and mulch heavily with straw, grass clippings, pine needles, or crumbled leaves. As the plants grow, add more soil or mulch to cover almost all of the plant to encourage more tubers to develop along the root system.

Planting Potatoes

Timing your planting is of the utmost importance. Potatoes that grow in too-cold or too-wet soil can rot, while potatoes grown in soil that is too warm or dry may simply not produce. Plant your potatoes after the danger of frost has passed but while you are still experiencing a light frost.

When you plant, put them about two or three inches deep and 24 inches apart. This will be done, typically, regardless of how you choose to plant your potatoes.

The planting methods may vary slightly if you are planting in a grow bag or another similar container, but in raised beds and rows, the same process will be required.

Keep in mind that if there is a light frost after you plant, it can potentially kill your new growth. However, try not to panic. This won’t kill your potato plants and the potatoes will put on new foliage quickly.

Caring for Your Potato Plants

When it comes to fertilizer, less is more when it comes to potatoes. Too much fertilizer can actually lead to fewer and smaller potatoes, since a flush of nitrogen encourages too much leafy green growth at the expense of the tubers. A light application of fertilizer every few weeks is all that your plants will need.

In terms of watering, potatoes love moisture, so be sure to keep the soil evenly moist throughout the growing season.

Common Potato Problems

Potatoes are super hardy crops, which is why so many gardeners choose to produce them! When you grow them in a raised bed, you’ll notice higher yields that will get you through an entire year when the tubers are preserved correctly.

There are some problems you’ll need to watch out for, though.

Potato Scab

Potato scab is common issue. This issue is caused by a too-high soil pH. Placing straw atop the potatoes can help prevent bacteria, and making sure your soil is nice and acidic can help prevent scab.

Cabbage Worms

The larvae of the cabbage worm are a common sight on potato plants. These small, green caterpillars feed on the leaves of the plant, causing extensive damage. In addition to eating the leaves, the larvae also leave behind a sticky substance that can attract other pests.

The best way to control cabbage worms is to use an insecticide that is specifically designed for larvae.

This type of insecticide will kill the larvae before they have a chance to do any damage. In addition, it is important to keep an eye out for early signs of infestation and to act quickly if larvae are present.

Colorado Potato Beetle

Another issue on the list of common pests and diseases is the Colorado potato beetle. This pest will need to be hand-picked from where they appear on the undersides of leaves. You can also use diatomaceous earth to control them.

Other Common Potato Diseases

Besides potato scab, potato plants can be affected by a number of other diseases, including blight, early die back, mosaic virus, and root rot.

Blight, including both early blight and late blight, is a fungal disease that attacks the leaves and stems of the plant, causing them to turn brown and wilt.

Early dieback is caused by a bacteria that infects the potato itself, causing it to rot from the inside out.

Mosaic virus is spread by insects and causes the leaves of the plant to turn yellow and mottled.

Root rot is caused by a fungus that attacks the roots of the plant, making it difficult for the plant to absorb nutrients and water.

These diseases can all have a significant impact on the yield of a potato crop, so it is important for growers to be aware of them and take steps to prevent them.

One of the best ways to prevent these diseases is to purchase disease-free seed potatoes. This will reduce the likelihood of your plants being impacted by any kind of disease.

Another tip is to make sure your watering and fertilizing are on point. Many common potato diseases are caused by nutrient imbalances or too much or too little water.

Make sure your soil is loose and well-draining – consider adding a layer of compost and working it into the soil with a garden fork prior to planting, ideally sometime in March or April. This will ensure that your soil is both fertile and adequately well-draining.

Harvesting Potatoes

Potatoes are ready for harvest about three weeks after the plants have stopped flowering – if you want new potatoes. If you only want to harvest mature, large potatoes, wait until the plant’s foliage dies back.

Then, start counting down on the calendar – you will need to wait another two or three weeks. The tops of the vines must completely die before you start to harvest.

If you plan to store your potatoes, stop watering them, unless it’s extremely dry, toward the end of the growing season. If you aren’t sure how ready our potatoes are, you can dig a test hill. Mature potatoes will have skins that are thick and firmly attached to the flesh.

To harvest your potatoes, wait until a dry day. Then, dig gently, trying not to bruise or cut the potato skin in any way. This will cause rot during storage. If your soil is wet, make sure you let the potatoes dry before storing them.

You don’t need to leave your potatoes out in the sun to let them cure, but you should let them sit in a cool, dry place for two weeks to preserve and cure the skins.

When you store your potatoes, don’t keep them with apples. This can cause the skin to rot. Similarly, you should avoid storing your potatoes in the refrigerator and you shouldn’t wash them until you are ready to use them.

You can save seed potatoes from year to year, too, but this is done at your own risk. Some seed potatoes can transmit soil borne diseases, and since you can’t test your seed potatoes like seed companies can, you might be putting your harvest at risk.

Two months later…

It’s May now, and the potatoes are looking great! If I had another row of railroad ties that I could stack on top of these and fill in with more dirt, I’d get way more potatoes. But even in the 10″ of dirt they’re in we still expect to harvest another 100 pounds or so.

Kendra Lynne

A city girl learning to homestead on an acre of land in the country. Wife and homeschooling mother of four. Enjoying life, and everything that has to do with self sufficient living.