How To Prevent Those Annoying Ingrown Hairs After Waxing - Byrdie

The looming possibility of ingrown hairs and the red, angry bumps that herald their arrival is enough to dissuade anyone from going through the already painful ordeal of waxing in the first place. To make matters worse, areas with thicker follicles (the exact ones we're targeting to begin with) or curlier hair, like men's facial hair, underarms, or the bikini line, are usually the most susceptible—but that doesn't exclude other parts of the face or body. We've been there enough times to finally throw in the towel and consult the experts on how to deal with the irritating situation.

Ahead are 14 dermatologist-approved ways on how to prevent ingrown hairs after waxing and how to treat them if they do.

Meet the Experts

• Onyeka Obioha, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Boutik Dermatology.
• Alicia Zalka, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Surface Deep.
• Alexandra Bowles, D.O., is a board-certified dermatologist at MONA Dermatology.

Causes of Ingrown Hairs

Ingrown hairs are caused by hairs that fail to break the surface of the skin and, as a result, can't grow in the right direction. According to dermatologist, Onyeka Obioha, MD, "ingrown hair is hair that curls inward and grows downward under the skin instead of outward from the hair follicle."

Dermatologist, Alicia Zalka, MD explains: "The waxing process opens up the skin, and hair is removed. But by the time the hair grows back, the skin has healed over it, and the hair gets stuck. The stuck hair may become inflamed and cause symptoms."

How to Prevent Ingrown Hairs

Pull In the Right Direction

The goal in waxing is to remove the entire hair from the follicle, but it may break either above or below the skin's surface when being tugged. This can happen if there isn't enough "pull" or when too much wax is applied to an area (like trying to remove a large section all at once).

The trick is to get the hair out so that you can see the bulb at the base with more deliberate pulls. "Wax in the direction the hair grows," says Dr. Obioha. You'll have better chances of getting the entire hair out versus breaking it. When waxing at home, be sure to follow directions very carefully, prepping skin, applying product, and removing it.

Find a Seasoned Tech

If you do choose to pay for your service, don't go to just anybody who's licensed. We know that the bumps can happen despite the greatest intentions. However, those who are crafty have the best chance of not breaking the hair and avoiding other side effects. For example, some techs prefer hard wax for at least part of the bikini area, which is wonderful for coarse hair, as it "shrink wraps" hair so that it can be easily lifted. This type of discernment and tailored experience is what separates an expert tech from the rest.

If you know you're prone to ingrown hairs, be sure to inform the tech before starting.

Exfoliate Before and After

Lightly exfoliating before waxing with an ayate cloth or another mild exfoliator helps remove dead skin cells, allowing for a better and easier service. Dr. Zalka recommends using exfoliating cleansers three to four days per week that contain salicylic acid or glycolic acid. "But be mindful of the skin becoming sensitive right before the day of the wax," she says. "Hold this the day or two before your visit for extra caution if you have delicate skin."

Also, gently exfoliate a day after the wax if the area isn't red, inflamed, or irritated. When the hair does start coming back, the exfoliation may help it point up and grow in the right direction, opposite of skin. "Keep the skin soft and gently exfoliated (keep the sleeping bag zipper from getting stuck)," suggests Dr. Zalka. "When the hair grows back and it meets up with smooth skin that is not too dry or plugged up it can grow back freely with no blockage," Dr. Obioha notes that using body wash with lactic acid, as well as the aforementioned glycolic and salicylic acid, can help the hair to grow in the right direction.

Keep the Skin Clean

Waxing on clean skin is a no-brainer, but keeping the area clean immediately (and long) after wax day is essential to keeping ingrown hairs at bay. Gently washing any oil, dirt, and debris from the skin will ensure both pores and hair follicles are kept free of anything that could cause a clog.

Moisturize the Area

Proper skin hydration and moisture levels are beneficial across the board, but especially for recently waxed skin. Dr. Obioha recommends moisturizing the area with a barrier cream to reduce irritation and reinforce the skin's barrier.

Steer Clear of Tight Fitting Clothes After a Service

After any type of body waxing, you want the skin to be able to breathe, rather than be constricted. "Avoid tight clothing or compressive garments that can add to the problem (like a bear sitting on you in the sleeping bag as you're trying to get out) until it is resolved," says Dr. Zalka. Not only can tight clothes irritate freshly waxed areas, they can also damage hair follicles.

Avoid Irritating Products

Skin irritation is never a welcomed condition, but that goes double for freshly waxed skin. If you have a history of being prone to developing ingrown hairs, check your usual body or skincare lineup for sensitizing or irritating ingredients that could make matters worse. A main contributor to lookout for, especially in body-care products, is fragrance.

Reach for Targeted Products

Many products are created to help fight and prevent ingrown hairs before they appear. With exfoliating and moisturizing ingredients, preventing ingrowns is much easier than tackling the redness and bumps later on. Try an ingrown hair treatment. Apply the product 48 hours after removing the hair at a cadence of once per day, or according to the product's directions.

Consider Topical Treatments

If you know you're prone to developing ingrown hairs consistently, it may be time to consider prescription-strength treatments. "Apply a topical anti-inflammatory (hydrocortisone) to the area after waxing—over-the-counter (1% or 0.5%) or prescription strength," says Dr. Obioha, who also suggests using topical retinoids to increase cellular turnover and help the hair follicle grow in the right direction.

Try Sugaring

An alternative to waxing is sugaring paste, which also lifts the entire hair. Unlike waxing, which removes hair in the opposite direction of hair growth, the paste removes it in the direction that it grows. This is meant to put less strain on the hair so it's less likely to break either above or below the skin.

Avoid Hot Showers After Waxing

Alexandra Bowles, DO, advises avoiding taking hot showers at least 24 hours after waxing as the heat can dilate your pores and disrupt the skin's barrier, making it easier for bacteria to enter and increasing the risk of irritation or ingrown hairs. "I usually recommend sticking to lukewarm water and avoiding saunas, steam rooms, or intense workouts for at least a day," she says. Instead, Dr. Bowles, recommends keeping the area cool and calm to support proper healing and help reduce the chance of bumps or redness.

Be Mindful of Your Hormonal Cycle

Hormonal shifts can influence how your skin responds to waxing, according to Dr. Bowles. "I've seen that patients who wax around their period often experience more sensitivity, inflammation, and even a higher chance of ingrown hairs," she says.

Byrdie Tip

If you can, try to schedule appointments during the middle of your cycle when hormones are more balanced. "It usually makes for a smoother and more comfortable experience," Dr. Bowles adds.

Apply a Cold Compress Right After

A cold compress can be a simple yet effective way to soothe the skin, reduce inflammation, and gently shrink pores to help prevent ingrown hairs. "I like to use a clean cloth with ice wrapped inside or a cold gel pack and apply it in short intervals," Dr. Bowles says. "It helps calm any stinging or redness right after waxing and supports a faster recovery."

Add Niacinamide to your Post-Wax Routine

"Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is one of my go-to ingredients for calming and strengthening the skin," says Dr. Bowles. The mighty vitamin regulates oil, minimizes redness, and keeps pores clear, she adds.

What to Do If You Already Have an Ingrown

If you weren't quick enough to thwart an ingrown before it developed, don't fret. While you may still see a few bumps form, there are ways to remedy the irritation. "If ingrown hair becomes red and sensitive, switch to a benzoyl peroxide wash or glycolic acid toner," says Dr. Zalka, who suggests allowing the hair to grow gradually and applying warm compresses. Both cold and "warm compresses [on] the area help reduce inflammation," says Dr. Obioha. Most importantly: Fight the urge to pick!

Oils with moisturizing and hydrating properties will soften the skin and encourage the healing process. Opt for natural, plant-derived oils like jojoba that won't further inflame the skin or cause any additional breakouts. For bumps with extra sensitivity or irritation, look for products that can soothe the skin. Aloe vera, green tea extract, or colloidal oatmeal are skin-calming powerhouses that also have anti-inflammatory properties to tame redness or swelling.

"See your waxing professional for help or see your dermatologist if a rash or larger ingrown hair (aka cyst or boil) occurs," says Dr. Zalka. According to Dr. Obioha, a board-certified dermatologist can dislodge the ingrown hair if necessary, but a topical and/or oral antibiotic may also be required depending on the severity. "If the problem becomes severe or recurrent, see your dermatologist and also consider laser hair removal if appropriate and affordable," continues Dr. Zalka.

The Takeaway

The painful bumps, irritation, and redness of ingrown hairs are likely something we will all have to face at some point or another, regardless of our hair-removal style of choice. "Ingrown hairs can occur after waxing, shaving, and/or using depilatory creams," says Dr. Obioha. But, luckily, there are lots of ways to prevent and treat the irritation at home. However, if the issue becomes persistent, "removing the hair permanently/semi-permanently with laser hair removal is the best long-term management plan to eliminate ingrown hairs," notes Dr. Obioha.