How To Sew A Buttonhole | Automatic & Manual - Treasurie Blog

Learn how to sew a buttonhole. Practice does make perfect when it comes to making beautiful buttonholes. Most people know how to sew a button, it’s almost a life skill, but the buttonhole is another story. This tutorial will provide step-by-step instructions in buttonhole sewing, with a special automatic buttonhole foot or your regular foot and manual settings.

📌Table of Contents

• How to Sew a Buttohole (Quick Guide)
• Types of Buttonholes
• How to Sew a Buttonhole Automatically
• How to Sew a Buttonhole Manually
• Sewing a Buttonhole by Hand
• How to Sew a Buttonhole FAQs
• In Conclusion

Even the most experienced sewer can shy away from making their own buttonholes. However, a beautiful buttonhole adds the finishing touch, from shirts to blouses and beyond.

How to Sew a Buttohole (Quick Guide)

Here is a quick summary of sewing a buttonhole by machine:

To sew a buttonhole, mark the buttonhole length on your fabric, stabilize the area with interfacing, and use your sewing machine’s buttonhole stitch to sew the rectangle around the mark. Carefully cut the center opening and reinforce the ends with bar tacks. Buttonholes can also be sewn by hand using a buttonhole stitch.

Time required: 5–10 minutes

Skill level: Beginner

Types of Buttonholes

There are 2 ways to sew a buttonhole by machine: either with a buttonhole foot and the automatic settings on your machine, or a zig-zag foot and a zig-zag stitch. You can also do hand-sewn buttonholes with just a needle and thread.

Here we will go through:

TREASURIE BEGINNER SEWING SYSTEM

Stop Wasting Fabric (and Feeling Frustrated)

Everything beginners Google while trying to get it right - solved in one simple sewing toolkit.

• Fix thread bunching, skipped stitches & tension issues fast
• Never guess which needle or thread to use again
• Build straight seams and clean curves with guided sheets
• Plan projects so you actually finish them

Get the Beginner Sewing Toolkit Today

1. Automatic Buttonholes
2. Manual Buttonholes
3. Hand sewing buttonholes

Buttonhole Methods Comparison:

Method	How It Works	Skill Level
Automatic Buttonhole	Sewing machine creates the entire buttonhole automatically using a special presser foot.	Beginner
Freehand Machine Buttonhole	Sewn manually using a tight zigzag stitch without a dedicated buttonhole setting.	Intermediate
Hand-Sewn Buttonhole	Buttonhole is stitched by hand using a buttonhole stitch around the cut opening.	Intermediate to Advanced

How to Sew a Buttonhole Automatically

Supplies

To Sew a Buttonhole You Will Need:

• PRESSER FOOT – Buttonhole foot or zig-zag foot.
• MANUAL – The sewing machine manual for the settings for the buttonhole.
• SCRAP – A scrap of the fabric you plan to sew on for your practice sample.
• BUTTONS – If you are not sure which button to use, read about the types of buttons and button sizes. Your buttons don’t need to be metal or plastic as you can also make fabric buttons.
• MARKING TOOLS – A fabric marking pen. This should be either a removable pen or a tailor’s chalk.
• THREAD – Sewing machine thread in either the same color as the garment. I used a contrast so you could see the stitching, but beginners should always use a matching thread.
• SCISSORS – Sharp scissors or a seam ripper.
• PINS – Straight pins.
• INTERFACING – Fusible interfacing to reinforce the area where you will sew the buttonhole. (Read: types of interfacing)

This section will show you how to sew a buttonhole with a buttonhole foot and the automatic buttonhole settings on your machine. If you don’t have a specialty foot or automatic buttonhole, go to the manual buttonhole settings section.

1. How to Attach Buttonhole Feet

You can get specialized buttonhole feet like the one below or use a regular zig-zag foot. This special foot has a spot at the back to place the button, and the machine will automatically create a buttonhole the same size. My buttonhole foot takes buttons up to 1 inch (2.5cm), which is fairly standard.

The buttonhole foot attaches to the shank with the button section to the back. This does seem a little strange as a lot of the foot is hanging over at the back, but this is normal.

2. Preparation

Most fabrics need interfacing as reinforcement under the buttonholes, even if not specified in your sewing pattern.

1. Press a lightweight to medium interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric.

2. Next, measure where you plan to place the buttons. Buttons should be evenly spaced along the opening of the right side.

PRO TIP: If there will be many buttons on a blouse front, for instance, then use two strips of masking tape lined up with space for the buttonholes.

3. Use a ruler and your fabric pen to draw a line with markings at the top and bottom to show the start and end of the buttonhole. This will resemble a capital I.
4. Your buttonhole could be set horizontally or vertically, depending on the item you are making. Most jackets and blouses have horizontal buttonholes.

FORMULA: length of buttonhole = diameter of button + height of button

3. Prepare your Machine

1. Attach your buttonhole foot and check you have enough thread in your bobbin. There is nothing worse than running out of thread halfway through a buttonhole.
2. The stitch length will be set automatically when you put it on a the buttonhole setting.

PRO TIP: Read your manual and check that you have done everything required to prepare the machine.If you don’t have a manual, try getting a free one online. Read download sewing machine manuals to see if you can get one for your model.

4. Sewing a Buttonhole

Many machines have slightly different variations or orders of these steps, but this will give you some guidance on how to get started.

The basic steps for sewing a buttonhole on your machine are:

1. First side
2. First T bar
3. Second side
4. Second T bar

When using a buttonhole foot, your machine generally does all the steps for you. It will have some kind of indicator that will communicate to the machine when to reverse back, giving you perfectly sized buttonholes.

IMPORTANT: Check your machine manual or start a test stitch. Some machines start at the top and go backward, and some start at the bottom and go forward.

My Janome starts at the t bar and then goes backward.

Remember not to pull or push the fabric, as this affects the tension badly and sets the buttonhole foot off course. The buttonhole foot is specially grooved to allow the two sides of the buttonhole to stitch up parallel to each other, and if you pull, the material slips and the foot takes the wrong steps.

5. Cutting the Buttonhole Opening

Check that both sides of the stitching are not overlapping so that when you cut through the buttonhole, you are cutting fabric and not stitching.

Place a pin over the bar at the top and bottom, and insert the seam ripper to create an opening.  The pin will stop you from overshooting the mark and ruining the buttonhole. Also, pay attention to the fact that you are cutting straight through the middle. I was in a hurry to take this photo, went a little off track, and cut through some stitches.

A handy tool called a buttonhole chisel or buttonhole cutter is useful for cutting through the buttonhole if you are doing larger quantities. The chisel will need a cutting board behind it so you don’t chisel a hole in your table! If your fabric frays easily, add a little Fray Check to prevent fraying.

After you have finished sewing the buttonhole, it is time to learn how to sew a button.

How to Sew a Buttonhole Manually

You can do a buttonhole with an ordinary zig-zag foot and simple zig zag stitches and settings.

Start by preparing your machine, adding interfacing, and marking the position of the buttonholes, as per steps 1 and 2 in the previous section.

1. First Side

Make sure you have lined up the needle to start exactly at the top of the T bar, ready to sew down the first side in a straight line. Try a stitch width of 2.0 with a length of 0.3-0.5.

Slow down the machine, stopping at the T bar as you get to the end of the first line.

2. First T Bar (Bar Tack)

Ensure your machine needle is up and turn your setting to the next step of the buttonhole. Try a width of 5.0 and a length of 0. Your machine should stitch several stitches across the bottom of the buttonhole to secure the T bar. If you are nervous here, you can turn the flywheel by hand to make about six stitches to secure the end of the buttonhole.

3. Second Side

Set your machine to the third setting of the buttonhole. Try a stitch width of 2.0 with a length of 03-0.5. Check that your needle is on the correct side of the buttonhole and ready to travel back to the top of the buttonhole. You will go in reverse at this stage. Let the machine work as the buttonhole foot guides the stitches to the other end of the T and ends next to the point where you started.

Finish this step with the needle up as you adjust the stitch on your machine.

4. Last T bar

This is the final step, and the machine stitch should be ready to do several stitches across the end of the buttonhole. Try a width of 5.0 and a length of 0. It is important at this stage to see that the stitches will cover the gap at the end of the buttonhole. Once again, you can control the flywheel by hand if you like. The four steps have been completed.

5. Tying the Ends

Now, on some machines, there is a fifth option of a little stitch to run the threads in and secure the end. If you don’t have that feature, you must tie the threads off by hand. Pull your garment out of the machine and leave a reasonable amount of thread at the ends. Pull the threads through to the reverse side, and you can knot the threads or sew the threads into the back of the buttonhole with a hand needle.

Sewing a Buttonhole by Hand

The humble hand-sewn buttonhole is a shining example of how a hand-stitched process can still be valuable in the world of machines. There are many occasions when sewing a buttonhole by hand is just the better option, and this tutorial will lead you through step by step

Hand-sewn buttonholes are assembled in a different order than the machine-stitched version. The hand-stitched buttonhole starts with cutting the hole before stitching begins. This is the exact reverse of the process when you machine stitch a buttonhole.

Supplies

To make a buttonhole by hand, you will need:

• Hand sewing needle
• Thread
• Scissors
• Ruler
• Tailor’s chalk

The best thread for hand sewing buttonholes is a strong, smooth, and durable thread. This ensures that the buttonhole is neat, resilient, and able to withstand frequent use.

Here are some commonly recommended types of buttonhole threads:

1. Silk Buttonhole Thread: Silk thread is very strong for its diameter. This allows for tightly sewn stitches without adding bulk.
2. Polyester Buttonhole Thread: This offers strength and durability similar to silk but at a lower cost. It’s resistant to abrasion.
3. Embroidery Floss: Some sewers use embroidery thread for buttonholes due to its thickness and strength. It can be split into strands to adjust the thickness.
4. Gütermann Buttonhole Gimp: This is a specific product designed for hand-sewing buttonholes. It’s a cord that is sewn along with the buttonhole stitch.

When choosing thread for buttonholes, consider the fabric weight and color, and the garment’s style. A heavier fabric may require a thicker, stronger thread, while a lighter fabric will need a finer thread to avoid puckering. The thread color should match the fabric or provide a desired contrast if visible stitching is part of the design.

It’s also good practice to test a buttonhole on a scrap piece of the same fabric to ensure the thread behaves as expected and achieves the desired look and durability.

Here is how to hand sew a buttonhole:

1. Mark Position

Prepare your fabric and measure and mark your buttonhole position with chalk or a tailor’s pencil. This means using the actual button to mark the distance and checking how many buttonholes you will need. For thicker types of buttons, don’t forget to add the depth of the button to the length of the buttonhole.

Formula: buttonhole length = length of button + depth of button + 1/8″ extra

In the preparation, decide on whether you will sew a horizontal or vertical buttonhole. This could be specified in the pattern or your own personal choice. While the majority of the jackets in my cupboard have horizontal buttonholes, some are placed vertically. You can even make a hand-sewn buttonhole diagonally. There is no real right or wrong.

For thin fabrics, you may need to add some interfacing behind the place where the butthole will be placed. This will give some strength to the buttonhole and prevent it from stretching out after a few uses. The fabric should be at least double.

2. Sew an Outline Stitch

To make a buttonhole by hand, choose a contrasting thread to run a row of small running stitches around the edge of the buttonhole before you cut. Beeswax can smooth the thread, preventing tangles and making it easier to thread.

This is especially important on thick fabrics for coats and jackets and very thin slippery fabrics for blouses. It helps to secure the fabric and keep the multiple layers together.

Decide if you want a keyhole (rounded) ending which is useful if the button is very big and you want it to sit well. The keyhole should be facing the center edge so when the button is done up it can rest in the keyhole position.

3. Cut the Buttonhole

Using sharp scissors, cut your hand sewn buttonhole and mark the ends with a straight pin. If the fabric is an open weave or one that is prone to fraying, you can put a stop-fray solution on the edges to increase durability.

4. Sew Buttonhole Stitch

Now start stitching using your buttonhole stitch. Always practice a few times to get the stitches correct.  Buttonhole stitch is not the same as a blanket stitch so cut a scrap of fabric and a slit to practice first.

1. Insert the needle for buttonhole stitch from the top (1) to the cut edge (2).
2. Wrap the thread around the needle at the bottom going under the tip of the needle to make the buttonhole stitch.

3. When you pull your thread through, there should be a little knot at the top of the cut edge. This is sometimes referred to as the ‘purl’ stitch and gives a nice ridge to the neatened buttonhole.
4. Repeat with a small stitch along the buttonhole edge.
5. At the end of the buttonhole, add a few long bar tack stitches to prevent the cut from fraying.

What is the difference between buttonhole stitch and blanket stitch? Blanket stitch is stitched in the opposite direction and there is no knot or ‘purl’ stitch finish. Practice first and you will see the difference.

Tips for a Hand Sewn Buttonhole

1. Keep stitches even and close together as precision is important.
2. It is possible to lay a piece of fine cord along the edge of the buttonhole and to sew over the cord to create a raised edge. This gives some extra support around the edges of the buttonhole.
3. Remember to stitch several times at the top and bottom of the buttonhole to secure the ends.
4. Work any keyhole in a fan shape.

Why Do a Hand Sewn Buttonhole?

If you’re asking yourself if you should do a machine buttonhole or a hand-sewn buttonhole, here are a few reasons to consider.

1. You don’t have a buttonhole system on your machine, and you really need a buttonhole.
2. Your fabric is too thick to be buttonholed by a machine.
3. You are nervous about the confusing buttonhole gadgets on your machine.
4. A bad experience with a machine buttonhole makes you prefer hand sewing.
5. It’s a decorative option, and you like the idea of crafting it yourself.

How to Sew a Buttonhole FAQs

How do you sew a buttonhole on a sewing machine?

Most modern sewing machines have an automatic buttonhole setting. Mark the buttonhole length on your fabric, attach the buttonhole presser foot, and select the buttonhole stitch on your machine. The machine will sew a rectangular buttonhole automatically. Once finished, carefully cut the center opening with small scissors or a seam ripper.

How big should a buttonhole be?

A buttonhole should usually be slightly longer than the button’s diameter. A good rule is to add about 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the button size so the button can pass through easily without stretching the fabric.

How do you cut open a buttonhole safely?

The safest way to cut a buttonhole is to place a pin across each end of the buttonhole before cutting. Use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut the center. The pins stop the blade from accidentally cutting through the bar tacks.

Do all sewing machines make buttonholes?

Most modern sewing machines can sew buttonholes automatically or in several steps. However, if your machine does not have a buttonhole setting, you can sew a buttonhole manually using a tight zigzag stitch.

In Conclusion

Remember it is wise to practice on a scrap before stitching your garment. Use the fabric you will make the buttonhole on and prep it exactly as you plan to use it.

Now, step back and admire your workmanship as you know how to sew a buttonhole. Push the button through its very neatly and firmly made buttonhole. Now you can say you ‘have buttoned up’ the four-step process of a machine-stitched buttonhole. Well done!

The next step is sewing a button! If you need a refresher for this, read how to sew a button. Try these button alternatives if the thought of sewing buttonholes still makes you nervous.

4.9/5 - (15 votes) Share it Now, Make it Later!

• 

Author - Luisa Clare

Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie and a sewing educator with over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education. She creates clear, beginner-friendly tutorials and printable patterns that home sewists and crocheters worldwide use to build skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.