How To Sew An Invisible Zipper In 10 Simple Steps - Craftsy

Zippers can feel super intimidating to beginner sewers, but they’re actually pretty easy to pull off, and some are easier to insert than others. Like the invisible zipper. When you add one, there’s no machine stitching visible from the right side of the project. Everything is done behind the scenes, totally concealed within the seam allowances.

If you want to sew invisible zippers all the time — they can be used in skirts, tops, dresses, even decor pillows — investing in an invisible zipper foot (sometimes called a concealed zipper foot) can save you time and energy. Plus, using one will give you a more quality look than you’d be able to achieve with a regular zipper foot. Once you have it in hand, this is how to put it to good use.

How to Sew an Invisible Zipper Foot

Level: Easy

What You Need

• Invisible zipper foot (or regular zipper foot)
• Fabric marker or pins
• Ruler
• Tape

Good to Know: Invisible zippers should be sewn in when the pattern pieces are separate and still flat. You’ll also sew them to the right side of the project, contrary to all other types of zipper applications.

Instructions

1. Prepare the Seam Edges

Finish or serge the joining seam edges where the zipper will be added. Place the joining seam edges side by side, right side up. If you're making a dress or skirt, do not sew in the back seam.

Mark ¾” from the top edges of both pieces. This indicates the placement of the zipper and ensures that both sides of the joined pieces align perfectly.

2. Mark the Seam Allowances

Mark a ⅝” vertical seam allowance where the invisible zipper will be placed.

3. Prepare the Zipper

Open up the zipper, rolling and pressing out the curled zipper teeth so they lay slightly flat. (This will help you get a closer stitch, resulting in a cleaner finish for the zipper.) Be sure to press with a low setting — too much heat can melt the teeth.

4. Pin the Zipper

Place the zipper coil right side down along one of the marked ⅝” seam allowances and pin in place.

Pro Tip: Pinning in place should be sufficient if the fabric will not shift and is stable. If the fabric is slippery and likely to shift during stitching, hand baste the zipper in place. Then remove your pins.

5. Sew One Side of the Zipper

Double-check the zipper coils are rolled out and flat, then position the zipper teeth under the proper groove in the invisible zipper foot. Start at the top edge and stitch in place until the foot reaches the zipper stop. Backstitch to lock and remove.

6. Pin the Other Side of the Zipper

Good to Know: It is important that the ¾“ markings along the top edge of each pattern piece are aligned with one another. Otherwise, the zipper will be sewn in uneven. Adjust and re-pin if necessary.

7. Sew the Other Side of the Zipper

Sew the zipper to the other side of the pattern piece. Remember to make sure the zipper coils are rolled out and lying flat, then position the zipper teeth under the proper groove in the foot. Start at the top edge and stitch in place until the foot reaches the zipper stop. Backstitch to lock and remove.

8. Finish the Seam Below the Zipper

Close the zipper. Place right sides of the fabric together and move the zipper tails out of the way. Place the project into your sewing machine; lower the needle as close to the last stitching line as possible. Lower the foot and stitch away from the zipper for about 2”.

Pro Tip: When sewing seams, remember to backstitch at both the beginning and end so it stays nice and secure.

9. Complete the Seam

Change to a regular presser foot. Complete the seam on the project following the last stitching line.

Photos by Marni Weaver

Here are some more resources on zippers from Craftsy and National Sewing Circle

How to Shorten Any Zipper How to Sew a Front Fly Zipper The Best Way to Sew Exposed Zippers Helpful Hacks For Sewing Zippers

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8 Responses to “Sewing an Invisible Zipper Is Easy Thanks to This Quickie Tutorial”

1. I finally installed an invisible zipper with no mistakes. Thank you! Please add a step that shows how to place the second side of the zipper with the first side showing. That part always confuses me!! Also, photos of when you do the bottom of the zipper and enclose it would be helpful. Thank you for this, though.

   Reply

2. I am really confused - I have tried to sew the in just as the you have mentioned. However, the material does not meet when I return the fabric to the right side. There is a small gap and the zipper can be seen. Where have I gone wrong?

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3. I love it

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4. I like how you put the Invisible zip

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5. Love sewing..want to learn more than just joining fabrics together

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6. I am visual can you show me the right way of placing the zipper

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7. It may be helpful to add in Step 4 that the zipper should be placed with the zipper- pull face down. I know, I've been caught! It does show this in step 5, but may be too late for some.

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8. I have a question. Is step #8 sewn using the invisible foot, then finished with step using my regular presser foot? I’m wondering how that will work.

   1 Reply Reply