How To Shave With A Safety Razor - Double ... - Gentleman's Gazette

Nowadays, there are quite a number of shaving methods possible, like the innovative electric razor, which gives you a quick shave, and the multi-blade models sold by many companies from Gillette to Dollar Shave Club, but the tried-and-true method of shaving with a double-edged safety razor is still “a cut above.” Today, we’ll discuss some techniques for you to master this supreme shaving technique.

Table of ContentsExpandCollapse

1. Have Your DE Shaving Arsenal Ready
2. How Do You Shave With A Double-Edged Safety Razor?
3. How Can You Achieve A DE Result Faster?
4. Conclusion
5. Outfit Rundown

Have Your DE Shaving Arsenal Ready

1. Good DE Razor

First and most obviously, every good shaving kit needs, well, a razor—particularly, in this case, a good DE safety razor. But, what does that mean exactly: “good?” There are a few variables to take into consideration when choosing the right DE razor—and we say this in reference specifically to the razor itself and not the blade because that is an entirely different topic all on its own. Many of these variables are, in fact, subjective and entirely dependent on your personal preferences.

Consider the Razor’s

Weight and balance

A good DE razor needs to be well-weighted and balanced. A razor’s balance affects your control over the tool you’ll be using. Its weight will determine the innate pressure it puts on your skin. The heavier the razor, the more the pressure, and the less pressure you will need to exert on it; the inverse the true for lighter razors. For beginners, the heavier razor is typically preferred since the razor will do most of the work for you.

Adjacent to weight and balance are handle length and type. There are many to choose from, and some are even made by craftsmen. In regards to length, this variable will largely depend on the size of your hand. Obviously, with a langer hand, a longer handle might be ideal; and inversely for a smaller hand. However, there are those who prefer one or the other regardless of the size of their grip, as longer handles provide more room to finesse the razor, and shorter handles may be better for balance.

For types of handles, specifically material, a large majority of DE razors come in some sort of metal—either stainless steel or a zinc alloy, wherein the latter is the cheaper option. Most metal-handled razors have ridges to improve grip. Some even offer telescopic handles for ease in storage and travel, as well as versatility in length.

Some DE razors also come with wood handles and are usually carved ergonomically for better control. Poorer quality wood handles can also be prone to mold. The material of your handle is entirely predicated on feel, so, in this regard, go with whichever feels best for you.

A DE razor’s blade gap determines its aggressiveness. This refers to how much of the blade is exposed. This is also adjacent to another variable, which is the razor’s comb type. To understand which blade gap and comb type combination works for you, think of these two variables as a gradient scale. The wider the gap and the more open the comb, the more aggressive your shave will be. This grants the advantage of a closer shave and is ideal for longer and denser facial hair but may cause irritation for more sensitive skin types. Conversely, the tighter the gap and the closer the comb, the milder the shave, which is ideal for more sensitive skin types and regular shaver who never let their facial hair grow thicker than stubble.

Now, at this point, you may wonder why you should go through all the trouble of figuring all this out when cartridge razors, plastic razors, or even electric razors can be more convenient. Well, there are actually are number of reasons why DE razors are far better than these.

We discuss the differences between all methods in more detail in a different guide, but at the forefront of the discussion are price, quality, and craftsmanship.

Double-Edge vs. Cartridge vs. Electric Razors

Know THEIR DIFFERENCE!

First and foremost, there is the matter of price. A cartridge razor refill will cost you two, three, or even upwards of $5 per cartridge, which you would ideally replace every four to five shaves, not counting for the handle itself, which would cost north of $10. An electric foil razor can cost anywhere from $20 to $40, and a rotary razor can even go up to $800, depending on the brand. These last you anywhere between five to fifteen years, depending on quality.

Compare these prices to a DE razor of decent quality, which comes at a much wider range—from $10 to upwards of $300. While it can be a sizable investment, especially if you go closer to the higher end of that scale, you’ll find dividends in the price of blades. A box of 100 high-quality blades can be purchased for about $10. That’s a staggering 10 cents per shave with a razor that could, if well chosen and well care for, potentially last you a lifetime. And that’s if you change blades with every shave, which you’re likely not to do.

With a DE Safety razor, You can

Have a superior shaving routine

Depending on your budget, the price may not be a factor for you, so you may be more interested in the quality of your shave.

Cartridge razors have multiple blades that mechanically do multiple passes with a single stroke. Some even have lubricating strips and pivoting heads that theoretically lessen irritation and aid with control.

Meanwhile, DE razors utilize a single, double-edge blade, meaning a single stroke equals a single pass. With proper shaving preparation, more control and precision over the number of passes you make does more to prevent skin irritation and razor burns than many lubricating strip or pivoting head can.

Moving on, electric razors catch hairs and cut them with either rotating or vibrating blades, working much like how scissors would. They typically have a foil that presses down on your skin, exposing the hairs and protecting your skin from the blade.

The problem therein lies with keep these blades sharp. While there are replacement blades available, they can be extremely costly and quite a hassle to replace; compare this with the affordability and ease of a DE razor. Because, we can tell you, no amount of convenience is worth shaving with a dull blade.

Moreover, electric razors of lesser quality may not provide the close shave that you may want, leaving you with a rough stubble rather than a baby-smooth shave.

While it is possible to get a good, close shave with any of the methods we mentioned here to today, really each have there own pros and cons to consider, and, in the end, it truly comes down to your own preference and priority.

2. High-Quality Blade

As important as a good razor is a good blade, and as many things there are to consider when choosing your DE razor, you may be surprised to learn that there are also some things you need to keep in mind when choosing the right blade.

What is more immediately important is the blade’s sharpness—or rather, how aggressive it may be on your skin. You see, this variable is mostly dependent on your skin type and hair type—whether you have sensitive and acne-prone skin or smoother and more resilient skin, and whether you have coarser or finer hair. Also important to consider is your skill level in regard to DE shaving.

Keeping a blade sharp is important as we’ve pointed out, but sharpness comes in a variety of levels.

Take into consideration

The sharpness of your blade

Sharper, more aggressive blades may cause irritation and burns on sensitive skin and may cause cuts on acne-prone skin when not handled with care. Thus, blades on the sharper end of the spectrum are better for more experienced shavers. They’re particularly useful for men with coarser hair who would, otherwise, require more passes on a duller blade, potentially subjecting them to, again, irritation.

On the other end of the spectrum, blades that are less sharp are better for people with, yes, more sensitive skin, but also those who have finer hair that would require less passes and, in which case, a sharper blade would be overkill. This is also better recommended for newcomers to the method, who may not be as accustomed to what specific kind of blade they may need or how much pressure they would need to use. And if they find themselves lacking in these milder, graduating to a more aggressive option is always an option without having to risk irritation, nicks, or cuts.

Brand	Country of Origin	Where to Buy
Astra	Russia	Amazon
BiC	Greece	Amazon
Bluebird	Turkey	Amazon
Derby	Turkey and Sweden	Amazon
Feather	Japan	Amazon
Gilette	Russia and India (Primarily)	Amazon
Lord	Egypt	Amazon
Merkur of Germany	Germany, the Czech Republic	Amazon
Mühle of Germany	Germany	Amazon
Parker	Sweden	Amazon
Personna	America	Amazon
Shark	Egypt	Amazon
Voskhod	Russia	Amazon
Wilkinson Sword	Germany (Classic Line)	Amazon

While price can be a major factor here, the affordability of any reasonable choice of blade makes it less important to discuss. But, for those interested, we do go into more detail about that in our post where we review blades.

Reviewing DE Safety Razor Blades

HERE’s WHAT WE THINK!

3. Product

Once you have your razor and blade at hand, you are ready to choose how you’d like to prepare your skin and get a comfortable shave. The first of these is your choice of product, which can be a soap, gel, foam, oil, or cream.

Again, we go into the details of each choice in detail in another guide, but really, each choice comes with its own strengths and weaknesses—balancing between not only softens the skin and hair, but also how well it protects the skin well beyond the shaving routine. Moreover, some choices may require a learning curve to truly bring out the best it can offer.

SHAVING SOAPS Can Give

A good lather

Shaving soaps, when properly prepared, offer excellent skin softening and lather. It’s a traditional choice that may require some practice and additional tools to use, but it’s cost-effective and feels fantastic if you appreciate taking your time.

Creams are easy to use and are very moisturizing. They’re great for beginners, but be wary of cheaper options that may contain harsher chemicals, in which case it might do more harm than good. It can be more costly than shaving soap, but its simple and effective.

But as easy as they are, even more so are foams that come in cans and instantly lather. Indeed, these are accessible, convenient, and as simple to use as pressing a button. But these aren’t good for your skin. They provide little to no lubrication and zero moisturizing benefits.

A close cousin to foams is gels, which provide a bit more moisturizing benefits but still little making the skin soft enough. Having a clear appearance, they allow you to see exactly where your blade is going. They’re as easy to use as foams but also still contain those nasty chemicals that you find in aerosolized cans.

Shaving oils are less popular than the previous methods, but they provide a unique experience. They’re quick and easy to use like foams and gels, but they also provide the lubrication, moisturizing, and skin conditioning benefits that those two lack. While they may be the hail mary for sensitive skin, the downside of this option is its cost and that it may fall short when used on coarser hairs.

4. Accessories

Beyond the previous three items, you may need other accessories to enhance your shaving experience. While a kit with a razor, a blade, and a product is going to work fine, depending on the specifics of your previous choices, you may need things such as a shaving brush and bowl, a razor stand, and a handy pouch or dopp kit for when you travel.

If you had chosen either shaving cream or shaving soap for the product, you will need a shaving brush and bowl to actually use—and, of course, some decent practice. Choosing a brush requires you to pick between synthetic or natural bristles, usually boar or badger—each, again, comes with different strengths and weaknesses.

A razor stand allows you to dry your razors upright, which aids in the longevity of your tool and blades, as well as in the quality of your next shave. A properly cared-for razor will gunk less, last longer, and generally give you a better experience. Future you will thank you deerly for choosing to care for you razor.

Secure your shaving kit with

A reliable pouch for traveling

A pouch or dopp kit is useful for when you travel with your shaving kit. They typically come in leather and help protect your razor and anything it might come in contact with inside your luggage.

Additionally, you may be wondering how you are to dispose of used blades, and if so is the case, then you may want to consider getting yourself a blade bank. These are sealed cases similar to a coin bank, where you drop in used razors instead of pennies, keeping them there until they filled and ready to be safely binned. They are disposable, recyclable, and safe. You do not want to be disposing of used razors loosely in the trash, for your sake or the sake of the garbage collector—it’s the responsible, gentlemanly thing to do.

How Do You Shave With A Double-Edged Safety Razor?

Step 1: Pre-Shave Routine

We can’t emphasize the importance of a pre-shave routine enough. But, what does this mean? For one thing, you can take a hot shower, which makes your hair soft. If you don’t want to shower, you can use a wet towel, heating it for a a minute or so in the microwave. It’s very comforting, but it also helps your hair to get soft. If that’s too much time for you, you can also splash your face with hot water for a minute or two, until you can feel that your hair is getting soft.

Step 2: Apply Shaving Cream

Applying shaving cream or shaving lather to your face is next. If you’re in a hurry, we suggest using shaving cream from a tube. Never use cream from aerosol cans, because these products don’t have enough fat, which is a natural lubricant. You can also use a shaving soap, but you’ll need a brush to lather it up and it takes a bit more time.

A Shaving Brush Will

Help generate a good lather

Using the shaving brush is probably the best technique overall because it puts the lather all around each hair. It also may aid in moving your hair slightly away from your face, which makes the shave easier and will prevent cuts, nicks, and ingrown hairs.

Once you’ve got the shaving cream or a lather on your face, it’s time to actually shave.

PRO TIP

Avoid using products from aerosol cans as they don’t have enough fat to render a good lather.

Step 3: Begin Shaving, With the Grain

At this point, load up your razor’s head with your blade of choice, and make sure it’s straight and not crooked (because you don’t want to cut yourself). Begin the first pass; don’t worry about removing all of your hair, as a second and (optional) third pass will provide a perfectly smooth result. When you are just starting out, we suggest standing in front of the mirror and looking at the growth directions of your beard hair before you even start shaving or lathering up. If you can’t remember how your beard grows, use a pen and paper to diagram the directions you think your hair is growing. It’s very simple. Just look at it closely, and you’ll see it.

Why is it important to do this, you ask? Well, in the first pass, you want to shave in the direction of your hair grain (or “with the grain”), which is much less stressful on your skin. Honestly, every man has a slightly different growth direction, so it’s hard to make blanket statements.

When you make a pass, always ensure that your skin is tight or stretched (using your free hand) because if there’s loose skin, you’re much more likely to cut yourself. For example, that can mean pulling around your sideburn or reaching overhead to pull up, to tighten the area just before the razor blade goes over it. Sometimes, around your cheeks, you can also just puff them out with enough air to make the skin tight. In the area below your nose and around your mouth, you can also tighten your skin with your muscles, or just use your tongue from the inside.

Depending on the head of your double-edged razor, you should hold your handle at an angle of about 30 to 45 degrees. You’ll hear what the right angle is once you do the pass. When you do the pass, you want to be very gentle on the skin. Don’t have any strong pressure. Just use gravity to slide the razor down on your face.

Ensure that you make short and slow strokes. When you start, make sure you shave in straight strokes perpendicular to the edge of the blade; that way, you’re less likely to cut yourself. Once you’re a little more advanced, you can also have a slight stride, which means you go at a slight angle, because this kind of movement creates a stronger cutting motion.

Angled razors heads

Help you with your strokes

You could also get a handle that is slightly angled, so if you pull down your handle straight, it always cuts the hair at an angle, therefore enhancing the cutting motion just like on a guillotine. We only suggest angled heads for people with very thick hair, because it makes for a more aggressive razor; if you have very thin beard hair, you’ll still get the same result with a less aggressive razor, and your skin will thank you for it.

Once you’re done with one or two strokes, just switch to the other side of the blade, and repeat once or twice.

Step 4: Rinse the Blade After Using Each Side

You can either do this under running water or in a sink that’s filled with water. If you feel any kind of pulling or any pain when you shave with a DE razor, it either means that you didn’t do a proper pre-shave routine, or that your blade is dull.

If you use shaving cream, you can clearly see where you’ve already shaved. You may also find it helpful to have a little bit of extra shaving cream in your free hand, so you can apply it after each pass. You can’t have too much shaving cream on your skin when you shave, because the cream protects and lubricates the skin. In the beginning, it may be tempting to go over the same area three or four times without reapplying shaving cream; but trust me, it’s better to have new shaving cream applied every time before you shave.

That being said, when you’re just learning a technique, everything is going to take you a lot longer, and so by the time you make it from your right side to the left side, you may already experience a drying feeling on your face. You don’t want a dry shaving cream, because it clogs up the razor and prevents skin protection. Therefore, if you can feel that it gets a little drier, wet your hand, go over the area again, and maybe reapply a little bit of lather or shaving cream so everything is fresh before you shave over it.

The tricky areas are usually right underneath your nose and underneath your mouth; experiment with using your tongue or filling your cheeks with air to make sure the skin isn’t loose in those areas. Also, around your jawline, it can be hard to get it smooth all the way along, so stretching the asking with your free hand can also be a good idea here.

Every man has different problem areas. For example, underneath his right ear, Raphael always has to go in a different direction, otherwise he doesn’t get all the hair. The chin is another area where it can be a little bit difficult. Again, use your fingers and your face muscles to keep the skin tight. Just shave in different directions, always reapplying the shaving cream. After you’re done with the first pass, there will likely be still some residual hair in certain places. That’s when it’s time for the second pass.

Lather up a better shave with a shaving cream!

LEARN MORE HERE

Step 5: Make A Second Pass, Across the Grain

Again, put shaving cream on your face with your hand (or you lather up and use a shaving brush), and then cut “across the grain.” What does this mean? Not against, but at a 90-degree angle, perpendicular to the direction of hair growth. Again, pull your skin tight and shave in the same manner as you did before, just at a 90-degree angle.

Step 6: Make An Optional Third Pass, Against the Grain

Most men are done after the second pass, but if you have thicker hair or if you want an even better and closer shave, you can do a third pass “against the grain.” Be aware, however, that this may cut your hair below the skin level, which could lead to irritation. Still, these “baby-bottom smooth” results are often viewed favorably by romantic partners!

When you shave against the grain, it can feel more aggressive on your skin, and you can also hear the cutting motion more. Shaving against the grain may lead to more irritation in some areas, as the hair may be cut below the surface. Trial and error should be your guide here. Once you’re done with the third pass, it’s time for the next step.

Step 7: Close the Pores with Cold Water

Rinsing with cold water

Closes pores and also stops bleeding!

Splash your face with cold water to close up your pores. Some people use ice water because they believe it does a better job of closing the pores and stopping any kind of bleeding, though you may find regular cold tap water does the trick.

Step 8: Soothe the Skin with A Post-Shave Product

Afterward, it is very important to add a post-shave balm or product. Every company that offers shaving creams also has post-shave products. Some will be more fragrant than others. The traditional, old-school, all-alcohol varieties are not recommended because they dry out your skin. Our team has had great results with an inexpensive Nivea aftershave balm for sensitive skin. There are also pricier options, like VitaMan aftershave balm, which has natural or vegan ingredients, which some also prefer.

How Can You Achieve A DE Result Faster?

The result of a DE shave is superior to any cartridge razor shave, and on par with systems like Supply or OneBlade. Some may argue it’s not quite as good as shaving with a straight razor, but that also takes a lot longer and requires even more technique. Try it if you like, but you’ll likely find (as we have) that a straight-razor shave is best saved for the weekend or other times when you really want to enjoy the shaving process.

The big question here is, how can you achieve that same result of a DE shave, just a lot faster? Consider trying our founder, Sven Raphael Schneider’s shaving routine, which is geared towards the best result in the shortest amount of time.

Raphael’s Personal Method – Step 1: Pre-Shave Routine

First, Raphael starts by taking a warm shower (not doing any other prep work with towels), or just splashing his face, to get his hair in the right condition.

Discover our fool-proof pre-shave skin care regimen!

READ HERE

Step 2: Apply Shaving Cream by Hand

Save time by Applying products by hand

Raphael applies shaving cream out of the tube with his hands because that way, he doesn’t have to lather up or clean a brush.

Step 3: Make A First Pass with an Electric Shaver

Raphael uses an electric shaver to get rid of all the excess hair on his face. This is the equivalent of the first and maybe the second pass, but it’s a lot faster–and you don’t have to pay attention to cutting yourself because electric shavers are pretty good at minimizing this. All you have to ensure is that your electric shaver is meant to get wet; if not, you have a problem!

Raphael prefers a wet electric shave compared to a dry electric shave, simply because it gets a much closer result, and it can be done with shaving cream.

Step 4: Make A Pass Against the Grain with a Safety Razor

Once he’s done with the electric shaver, Raphael simply reapplies shave cream with his hand and shaves against the grain once with his double-edged razor. In addition to saving time, another advantage is that his razor blades last a lot longer this way–after all, it’s just one pass, not two or three.

Step 5: Post-Shave Routine

Finally, Raphael cleans up with cold water and adds his post-shave balm. And that’s it! Raphael can do all of this in about five to six minutes. Of course, when you’re starting out, it may take you a little longer, and this method has a disadvantage in that you also have to invest in a waterproof electric shaver, which can add $200 or $300 to the overall upfront investment. Like Raphael, though, you may find that the savings in time spent justify the cost.

UsE cold water to

Complete the shaving regimen

A good post-shave routine includes a thorough rinse with cold water. The low temperature soothes the skin that has been exposed to blades by reducing swelling and closes the pores.

Conclusion

That’s everything you need to know about necessary tools and how to shave with a DE razor in the classic way, as well as Raphael’s personal time-saving way. If you want to learn more about shaving, check out our complete shaving guide.

What’s your current shaving method? Do you use a DE razor? Share with us in the comments!

RECOMMENDED

Master the Art of Shaving with Our Shaving Guide

Each man has different needs, and even though we love a deep dive into one part of shaving, we know that the Big Picture is just as important. To answer the many shaving questions and concerns that we receive from men every day, we put together the most comprehensive Shaving Guide out there.

In assembling this work, we personally tested over one hundred shaving products to see how they performed. Our expert testers have extensive experience with all shaving methods, including cartridge, double-edged or safety, and straight razors, techniques, and tools. All products were tested comparatively by the same team, so you can be sure that every suggestion, tip, and review is unbiased and the direct result of our genuine opinions and assessments.

Download the eBook for $25.00

Experience the Ultimate Gent’s Luxury

A Shave at Heimie’s

Outfit Rundown

Fort Belvedere

Silk Bow Tie in Burgundy Red Glen Check – Pointed End

Shop Here

Fort Belvedere

Brick Red Pocket Square Art Deco Egyptian Scarab pattern in green, orange, yellow, blue with green contrast edge

Take A Look

Fort Belvedere

Shadow Stripe Ribbed Socks Charcoal and Orange Fil d'Ecosse Cotton

Shop Here

Raphael is wearing a combination of an orange or salmon-colored shirt with a fair isle knit vest in brown. He is combining it with a light beige herringbone tweed jacket and a Prince of Wales check bow tie in burgundy. It’s from Fort Belvedere, just like his silk-wool pocket square, which picks up the earthy tones of red, brown, green, and yellow.

Raphael’s pants are mid-brown corduroys, and he’s combining them with Fort Belvedere socks in charcoal and orange shadow stripes, which from afar creates a look of something brownish, and therefore pair well with the pants as well as his olive green Derby shoes, while still providing enough contrast and picking up the orange and other warm tones in the outfit.

Enjoy an ASMR wet shave experience

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