Inseam Pockets - Side Pocket Tutorial & Pattern - Treasurie Blog

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Inseam pockets are hidden in the side seams of garments and can add a functional and fun feeling to any pattern. They are easy to add even when the sewing pattern doesn’t have it included. Even beginner sewers can easily create side inseam pockets; this tutorial will show you how to sew inseam pockets with a free printable pattern.

What are Inseam Pockets?

Inseam pockets are medium-sized pockets hidden in the side seams of dresses, pants, and skirts. They are not obvious unless you put your hands inside them, making them a sleek and flattering option for all garments. Inseam pockets are large enough to put your hands inside, making them perfect for hiding a tissue, small purse, or phone.

Inseam pockets give you somewhere to put your hands and feel ever so confident and stylish.

Free Inseam Pockets Pattern

You can make your own pattern by tracing around your hand and then adding seam allowance, or here is a free inseam pocket pattern you can print.

Free Side Pocket Pattern

>Download inseam pocket pattern

Remember to measure the test square is correct and if you need printing help, read my article on how to print PDF patterns.

Inseam Pockets Supplies Needed

An inseam pocket pattern – You can make your own or download the Treasurie inseam pockets pattern.
Sewing basics – Sewing thread, pins, machine, and basic supplies
Matching fabric to your garment. If you are sewing thick fabric, for example, wool, you can use a thin pocket fabric in a matching color to reduce bulk.

I have used a contrasting fabric so you can see the side pockets clearly; most of the time, these pockets are designed with a matching pocket color. Alternatively, a contrast color pocket can add a cute pop of color that is exposed when you move or put your hands inside.

For this tutorial, I have photographed the pocket attached to a skirt, but this method works exactly the same for pants, shorts, or dresses. Any side seam will do!

Dress Pattern

The pattern featured here is from the Treasurie pattern shop. It includes inseam pockets and comes with 2 great options. Shop the dress pattern.

How to Sew Inseam Pockets, Instructions

Here is how to add pockets to a dress, skirt or pants:

Step 1 – Prewash and Cut the Pockets

Pre-washing your fabric is important since if the pocket shrinks more than the outside garment, you will end up with a puckered mess after the first wash. Also, check for color bleeding, as this can also ruin all your hard work.

My downloadable inseam pocket pattern includes seam allowances of 1/2 inch (12mm). You can add more or less if you need to.

When cutting the pockets, make sure you are cutting the fabric on a fold so that you end up with 2 pockets, a mirror image of each other. Alternatively, if you cut them separately from scrap fabric, flip the paper pattern over to cut the second one.

How Many Pieces to Cut – My pocket pattern says cut 4, assuming you are going to put the pockets on either side of your garment. If you only want to put the inseam pockets on one side, you will only need to cut 2 pocket pieces.

Step 2 – Placement of Inseam Pockets

Most patterns will indicate where to add the inseam pockets, but if they don’t, you will need to work it out yourself. Try on or hold up your half-made garment and determine the position just on or below your hip where it will feel comfortable.

Mark the top of the pocket placement on both the front and back of the skirt so you can match them up evenly.

Step 3 – Finishing Side Pockets

To prevent having to serger or finish awkward angles, it is easiest to serger the pocket edges now. Finish the rounded part of the pocket, keeping the straight edge unfinished for now.

Of course, a serger is easiest, but you can also use a zig-zag stitch or pinking shears. Bias tape is also an option, but it can get a little bulky and show on the outside of garments made from thinner fabrics.

Further Reading: Seam finishes

Step 4 – Join the Inseam Pockets

With the right sides together, stitch a pocket to the front of the skirt with the seam allowance. Do not stitch beyond the seam allowance at the top and bottom. Match the top of the pocket to the top of the mark you have made. Some patterns will have notches for the side seam and pocket that you will match up.

If my seam allowance is 1/2 inch (12mm), then stitch the seam at 1/2 inch (1.2cm). Stop at the top and bottom 1/2 inch from the edge.

Step 5 – Finish the Seam

Finish all the way down the side seam of the skirt (catches in the pocket edge). The best way is with a zig-zag, serger, or pinking shears. Finishing the edge now makes your sewing look neater and is less awkward later.

Step 6 – Press Open

Press the pocket open. Optionally, topstitch along the seam on the pocket, once again stopping 1/2 inch (12mm) from the top and bottom. I usually don’t topstitch, but if you have a bulky fabric that won’t stay open, this helps the pocket stay flat.

Step 7 – Joining the Pockets

Open up the pockets. With right sides together, stitch the front and back of the skirts together at the side seam and all around the pocket. Take care to leave the pocket opening open.

Step 8 – Press Inseam Pocket Toward Front

Press the pocket towards the front of the skirt. If you press the side seams forward, you won’t need to clip the corners of the pockets meaning there are no weak points that can fray.

Step 9 – Turn

Turn the garment to the right side, and you have a lovely inseam pocket ready to use.

Inseam Pockets step by step photos and close ups

Inseam Pockets – In Conclusion

Now you know how to sew inseam pockets, you can add them to almost any garment. They are slimline, discrete, and best of all, easy to sew.

Inseam pockets

Learn how to sew inseam pockets (side pockets) step by step. 5/5 – (10 votes) Print Pin Difficulty: Easy BeginnerKeyword: Sewing Total Time: 12 minutes

Difficulty

Tools

Sewing Basics
Pocket Pattern

Materials

Fabric

Instructions

Finish the edges of the pockets.
With right sides together, stitch a pocket to the front of the skirt with the seam allowance.
Finish all the way down the side seam of the skirt. Press the pocket open.
Open up the pockets. With right sides together, stitch the front and back of the skirts together at the side seam and all around the pocket. Leave the pocket opening open.
Press the pocket forward.
Turn the garment to the right side.

5/5 - (10 votes) Share it Now, Make it Later!

Author - Luisa Clare

Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie and a sewing educator with over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education. She creates clear, beginner-friendly tutorials and printable patterns that home sewists and crocheters worldwide use to build skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.

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2 Comments

Thanks so much! Very clear and well done
Thank you so much for the inseam pocket procedure .I have some pants and skirts that need pockets,so I definitely going to use your method to put them.

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