Mounting To Hardie Board | Electrician Talk

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I need to mount a small disconnect (spa) possibly to Hardie board siding. What is the best way to drill and mount to it? #1 · May 2, 2016 I need to mount a small disconnect (spa) possibly to Hardie board siding. What is the best way to drill and mount to it? Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · May 2, 2016 It's closer to cinder block than anything... with fibre added. Can you drill clean through and attach fender washers and lock nuts ? I would not trust screw threads to last. HIlti makes some outstanding toggles that support 1/4-20 hardware. I'd use them if I couldn't reach around to the back side. #3 · May 2, 2016 Can't drill clean through, there is a finished room on the inside. 0 Reply #4 · May 2, 2016 Lag bolts would be ideal if you could hit a stud, I've had some luck with those big silver he head screws or toggles into the voids like tesla said Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk #5 · May 2, 2016 Reading up on Hardie Board there is a 10 year transferable limited warranty on the product. As ugly as it might be consider a free standing 7/8" stainless steel Unistruct and matching hardware. JMO Hardie Board #6 · May 2, 2016 Is there plywood behind it? #7 · May 2, 2016 The thing is you don't really want to clamp down on the hardie board, it is crumbly and it's not a flat surface. You want to attach to the sheath under the hardie board. Toggles won't work, but it will be easy with snaptoggles.

These require a half inch hole. What I'd do is start the hole with a 1" bit, but go just until you're through the hardie board, stop when the bit touches the wood. A spade bit will work but a 1" hole saw might be a little safer, start it in reverse to score the hardie board first, then drill the right direction. Then drill through the wood with the half inch spade bit, the point of the bit following the pilot from the larger bit to keep the holes concentric. Use a stack of 1/4" x 1" fender washers as a spacer on each bolt to get you out past the hardie board so you box is attached to the wood, just out past the siding. This way it will be strong and plumb. The box won't be touching the hardie board. Put the bolts through the box, put the stack of washers on, snug the washers up to the box, and put a piece of masking tape around to hold them in place until you get the bolts started. Get all four bolts started, tear off the tape, hand tighten one by one getting the stack seated in there right. It's quick and easy, it will take less time to do than it took to read all that

#8 · May 2, 2016 Why not use screws long enough to fasten to the sheathing under the hardie board?? #11 · May 2, 2016 I'm not sure what is behind the Hardie. It's something either real thin or the Hardie is straight to the studs. Show more replies 0 Reply #9 · May 2, 2016 Id toggle strut to it then.. anchors and screws are useless. Almost every building ive done in a decade has this siding but I get benefit of doing it ground up a lot of times. #10 · May 2, 2016 There is strand board under the siding. Just use a 2 - 2 1/2" screw and be done with it! 👍 #14 · May 2, 2016 I think it really depends what's behind the Hardie. Figure that out first. #15 · May 3, 2016 Are you talking about Hardie Plank siding or concrete board that tile gets laid on? I can't imagine tile backer board being left exposed with no finish over it. #16 · May 3, 2016 Siding Show more replies 0 Reply #18 · May 3, 2016 I like the idea of using strut, but instead of building a free standing support, I think you can find the studs and support the strut with a long screw into the stud. I guess it's the commercial side of me coming out. :laughing: #20 · May 3, 2016 if the hardie is just the trim im thinking its not cement board? hardy makes other materials #23 · May 4, 2016 I talked the HO into letting me mount the equipment elsewhere. Thanks for all the suggestions, I'll "sav-um" for another time!

#24 · May 4, 2016 Over the years, it's amazing how many problems evaporate after the customer is talked out of a seriously bad idea. ( Any running scheme that's going to bust my ^%$#. ) My personal favorite was moving a heavy isolation transformer down from the second level -- to the concrete slab. ( 'Moving it' in the design phase -- not physically. ) My second favorite was placing the house panel next to the Service. The customer was thinking ( not very successfully ) about locating said panel half-way across the building. ( $4,000 down the drain. ) So it goes. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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