P320 Maintenance And Cleaning | SIG Talk

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mbroadus Good evening Gents...bought my first handgun last week, Sig P320 9mm compact and I have several questions about gun maintenance. Have my new gun but have not shot it yet and would like to know if I need to oil/grease before going to the range? I may put a little on the rails with the supplied Lucas oil. I know I need to clean and oil afterward which brings me to my next question. I've been watching videos and reading websites regarding different brands of gun cleaning supplies and I'm a little overwhelmed. My wife knew I was going to buy a pistol so she bought me a Hoppe's Bore Snake cleaning kit, Hoppe's sportsmen's lune and Tetra gun grease. After reading great reviews, I purchased M-Pro 7 gun cleaner, Gun oil LPX and Barricade rust protection from Amazon. After a little more research on M-Pro 7, I'm hearing that it may harm the gun's finish. Anyone have any problems with M-Pro 7 harming the finish or composite handle? Thoughts? Many thanks, Mike Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk #1 · Jan 20, 2016 Good evening Gents...bought my first handgun last week, Sig P320 9mm compact and I have several questions about gun maintenance. Have my new gun but have not shot it yet and would like to know if I need to oil/grease before going to the range? I may put a little on the rails with the supplied Lucas oil. I know I need to clean and oil afterward which brings me to my next question. I've been watching videos and reading websites regarding different brands of gun cleaning supplies and I'm a little overwhelmed. My wife knew I was going to buy a pistol so she bought me a Hoppe's Bore Snake cleaning kit, Hoppe's sportsmen's lune and Tetra gun grease. After reading great reviews, I purchased M-Pro 7 gun cleaner, Gun oil LPX and Barricade rust protection from Amazon. After a little more research on M-Pro 7, I'm hearing that it may harm the gun's finish. Anyone have any problems with M-Pro 7 harming the finish or composite handle? Thoughts? Many thanks, Mike Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jan 20, 2016 Most definitely you should field strip and thoroughly clean, oil and lube the gun before shooting it for the first time. Use oil and lube sparingly. Clean the barrel and bore well and then put a light slick of oil in the bore and on the barrel. This will make cleaning easier after shooting. I use M Pro 7 and have not had any problems at all with it. I have the P320 and I DO NOT apply the M Pro 7 directly onto the polymer frame. I spray a little onto a clean cloth and then wipe down the frame. That's really all it needs. Enjoy your P320. Its a great shooter. #3 · Jan 20, 2016 The really nice thing about the P320 is you can take the whole firing system out of the gun and clean her up very quickly. Lube her up well after a good cleaning. #4 · Jan 20, 2016
neorebel said: Lube her up well after a good cleaning. Click to expand...
Lube what up well? I've never lubed up well a striker fire pistol. I keep it simply just like with my AR15, no fancy gun oil and use CLP to clean. After I have it very clean leave a very light coat of CLP around the barrel and then put some Penzoil Platinum synthetic motor oil (what I use for my car) on the parts where the FCG meets the slide. You can also use some synthetic grease. 0 Reply #5 · Jan 20, 2016 CLP.....excellent choice.....Clean....Lubricate....Protect.....is the key for cleaning, lubeing-not a word, and protecting it while in storage. I also use tetra grease for the gun rails and barrel lugs. Congrats and shoot straight. #6 · Jan 20, 2016 Here's the link to the sticky that gives a basic run down of cleaning. http://sigtalk.com/p250-p320-modula...0-modular-pistols/49054-factory-maintenance-lubrication-specs-p320-pistols.html I just made the switch to mil-comm, but cleaners and lube are all personal preference so use what you like. As far as cleaning, just get a good clean on the FCU, I would take it out of the gun after every 4-5 times of shooting, spray down with cleaner, let sit, wipe excess, clean off any hard deposits with q-tip or plastic pick, wipe or blow dry as best as possible, apply a little lube, wipe any excess and be done. Just add oil/grease to the four corners of the FCU that will touch the slide. Also apply oil/grease to anywhere that has metal on metal contact. Once I put the slide back on, I rack the slide a good amount of times, disassemble again and check for any excess oil/grease and to make sure the oil/grease got distributed fairly evenly. Hope this helps and congrats on the new weapon! It's a great one to own! #7 · Jan 20, 2016
notlimah said: Here's the link to the sticky that gives a basic run down of cleaning. http://sigtalk.com/p250-p320-modula...0-modular-pistols/49054-factory-maintenance-lubrication-specs-p320-pistols.html I just made the switch to mil-comm, but cleaners and lube are all personal preference so use what you like. As far as cleaning, just get a good clean on the FCU, I would take it out of the gun after every 4-5 times of shooting, spray down with cleaner, let sit, wipe excess, clean off any hard deposits with q-tip or plastic pick, wipe or blow dry as best as possible, apply a little lube, wipe any excess and be done. Just add oil/grease to the four corners of the FCU that will touch the slide. Also apply oil/grease to anywhere that has metal on metal contact. Once I put the slide back on, I rack the slide a good amount of times, disassemble again and check for any excess oil/grease and to make sure the oil/grease got distributed fairly evenly. Hope this helps and congrats on the new weapon! It's a great one to own! Click to expand...
Thanks for the link, great info! How do you like the Mil-Comm compared to the other products you've used? I'm really curious about mil-comm and will give it a try when I'm done with the M-Pro 7. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 0 Reply #8 · Jan 21, 2016 This may help with the Mil-com question. N R A products are just Mil-com RE-packaged. PRODUCT APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS The following product application instructions will help you reduce the time and frequency of your firearms maintenance work and ensure optimal performance of your firearms. NRA® Licensed GUN CARE SYSTEM products are U.S. Military grade formulations engineered by MIL-COMM PRODUCTS COMPANY to powerfully clean and super-lubricate the working surfaces of all firearms parts – the bore, slides, rails, trigger mechanisms and all other wear-parts. STEP 1 -- Clean all working gun parts with NRA® Licensed GUN CARE SYSTEM’s MC25 Cleaner/Degreaser, a double-acting detergent and enzymatic cleaning solution that effectively cleans all metal and composite firearms parts. MC25® is an “all green formula” cleaner/degreaser that delivers powerful, gentle cleaning action. MC25® is non-hazardous, non-flammable, non-corrosive, biodegradable, water-based high-performance product that contains no harmful solvents. STEP 2 – Apply NRA® Licensed GUN CARE SYSTEM’s TW25B® GUN GREASE on all wear-parts and the bore as directed below … and use MC2500® GUN OIL as a complementary lubricant/protectant on hard-to-reach parts, triggers and for quick lubrication replenishment on all parts. PLEASE NOTE: NRA® Licensed GUN CARE PRODUCTS are non-hazardous and environmentally friendly. For detailed product formulation information, please see the TECHNICAL DATA section of this website. PREPARATION OF THE METAL 1. Before the initial application of lubricant, it is important to thoroughly clean all parts of pre-existing material. Why? TW25B® and MC2500® lubricants penetrate the pores of metal surfaces of cleaned parts and create a roller-bearing smooth surface on the metal. Inadequate cleaning will inhibit optimal lubrication and protection performance. 2. If you use a “solvent-based” cleaner such as CLP for cleaning, you should rinse treated surfaces with denatured or isopropyl alcohol (90% or better). Wipe excess alcohol with clean, dry cloth, and wait briefly as it evaporates off. Why? Solvent- based cleaners will leave a residue which acts as a barrier that interferes with TW25B® or any other material from making direct contact with metal surfaces. The use of denatured or isopropyl alcohol (90% or better) as a final wipe or rinse insures that all solvent residues are removed. 3. After the initial surface treatment of removing pre-existing material, we recommend using Mil-Comm’s MC25® water-based, pH-buffered cleaner/degreaser as your regular preparation treatment going forward. LUBRICANT APPLICATION 1. Determine your application based on the following table. TW25B®’s white color makes it easy to determine your degree of coverage. Conditions Thickness Required Visibility After Application Applicators • Very closely fitted parts • Sand or dust environments Very light to light White grease is not visible Brush, cloth, patch, spray • Heavy load bearing • Salt/fresh water corrosion • Heat or high speed • Long-term storage Light to moderate Opaque gloss is slightly visible Brush, cloth, syringe • Bearings, gears, grease fittings • Extended extreme load • Marine exposure Heavy White grease is plentiful Brush, caulk or grease gun, bearing packer 2. Apply TW25B® evenly to all parts, using the appropriate applicator. Wherever possible, polish TW25B® into the surface to make the application last longer. Chrome and chrome-plated parts do not need TW25B® lubrication. For a gun with a carbon-steel bore, swab until patch is clean (even though TW25B® is not a cleaner, it will draw out fouling). Inspect to insure that bore is free of any debris or residual lubricant and that the chamber is dry. WARNING: Residual or excess lubricant in the gun barrel chamber can hinder performance or cause damage to parts. SUBSEQUENT CLEANING AND APPLICATION 1. Disassemble firearm and wipe clean with soft cloth or patch. Dry wipes used after action will clean a good amount of carbon fouling off parts that are pre-treated with TW25B®. 2. Apply cleaner as necessary. 3. Reapply TW25B® to critical friction points and exposed surfaces (ref. the table above). Remember, “less is more” when using TW25B® Questions? Want more application information? Write: info @ nraguncare.com YOU ARE NOW READY TO ENJOY MORE SHOOTING AND LESS #9 · Jan 21, 2016 As gray wolf pointed out, the first cleaning and application can be a bit tedious, but IMO it's worth it and shows practically right away. My previous cleaning methods, no matter how meticulously clean the gun was, would still have a slight gritty feeling after re-assembly and racking the slide a few times. With the mil-comm, it was like butta! And my first time applying it I didn't even follow the directions correctly and still felt better then before, but of course, YMMV! #10 · Jan 21, 2016 Gents - I'd be curious as to what you guys use for the EXTERIOR of the gun? I use Breakfree and CLP for the interior to both clean and lubricate, and I use SLP 2000 on the rails. Once I'm finished, I spay down the exterior with good old RemOil. I've not had any problems, and like the way it makes my guns look, but RemOil is a poor rust inhibitor. Is there a better choice? #11 · Jan 22, 2016
Rolex John said: Gents - I'd be curious as to what you guys use for the EXTERIOR of the gun? I use Breakfree and CLP for the interior to both clean and lubricate, and I use SLP 2000 on the rails. Once I'm finished, I spay down the exterior with good old RemOil. I've not had any problems, and like the way it makes my guns look, but RemOil is a poor rust inhibitor. Is there a better choice? Click to expand...
I've heard Barricade was very good. Image Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 0 Reply #12 · Jan 22, 2016 barricade, formally called sheath, is a very good rust inhibitor/protector and all around good product for external protection of any firearm. I trust it for internals also for a least a year if I were to store in an environment that was not to hostile. As a lubricant it will work but I would say it's very low on the list of good ones. Then again it's not sold as a lube. #13 · Jan 22, 2016 I've tried MANY different products for my pistols... The very best is CLP for all the metal parts and a light coat of Lucas Oil Red grease for the exterior barrel and rails. I'm a zealot for cleaning after firing. After thousands of rounds, the absence of significant visual wear is all the verification I need to stop looking for something better... #14 · Apr 13, 2025 Always clean a new pistol prior to hitting the range. They will have shipping grease caked in them. I also clean a used gun after what I've seen on the inside of them even though the dealer should have cleaned it. Not all places have knowledgeable people breaking them down and properly cleaning them. #15 · Apr 13, 2025 Here we go again with oils and cleaner. These products are like A@@h0les, everyone has one, but some are smellier than others. Take any cleaning products or lube suggestions with a grain of salt. See how many people use some of the off the wall items. Enough said. Use something reppreble made by a quality company. #16 · Apr 13, 2025 Seriously then archive it! #17 · Jun 16, 2025 I've used a number of products - Hoppe's, Mil-Comm, Slip 2000, Tetra, Wipe-out, and probably a few others I'm not remembering. One can really go down a rabbit hole trying to find the best product. I've learned to not fuss too much any more about which product to use. The main thing is to keep your gun clean, protected and lubricated. The key is to stay on top of it, not which product you use. Insert Quotes Post Reply
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