Planting A Strawberry Patch

Q.: I am planting a new patch of strawberries and would like to know if April 1 is about right, or should I have gotten them in sooner? Jay Baar, Hudsonville area A.: Early April is a good time to set out new strawberry plants in Michigan. The rule of thumb is as early as the ground can be worked. Even though it was very cold this winter, most parts of Michigan had snow cover through early March and this cover kept frost from driving deep into the soil. Had we not had the snow, I suspect the soil would be barely workable by now. As it is, with snow absent for several weeks and some fine weather in late March, I think you'll find the soil very workable.

I had my first strawberry of the year a few weeks ago, purchased from the grocery store and not surprisingly, it looked better than it tasted -- but I sure am not complaining.

Growing strawberries at home is almost sure to yield a harvest more sweet and juicy than anything you can buy at the store, unless the store offers homegrown. I suspect my first strawberry came from California; years ago I remember visiting Disneyland in Anaheim and being surprised, for some reason, to see strawberry fields surrounding it. This was 25-plus years ago and I suspect the fields have since been re-located to less pricey real estate.

Growing strawberries is about as easy as growing tomatoes, not that you can't have problems, but that success is almost guaranteed if you follow general guidelines.

Choice of varieties is huge - probably 30 or more and these fall into one of two major categories: June bearing or ever-bearing. The June type is the most popular and depending on the weather, they begin yielding fruit by Memorial Day and continuing through July 4. Of course, these dates are arbitrary but they give you a sense of when you can expect to have fresh berries. Ever-bearing varieties produce fruit from about the same starting time and continue up through the first frost that in Michigan can be as early as Sept. 15 and as late as Oct. 15. June bearing types seem to be the most popular; perhaps this is when folks consider strawberries "in season" and thus especially fresh, tasty and wholesome.

The most serious pest problem we encounter is a disease called Red Stele. It is caused by a fungus and it is worse in soils that are either poorly drained or heavy. Unlike many fungal diseases, this one is most active in cool weather. The good news here is that many of the most popular varieties we grow are resistant to this disease, among them "Midway," "Delite," "Guardian," "Scot" and "Earliglow." When buying new plants, be sure to check the label for disease resistance.

The gardener who is successful with strawberries is always buying new plants, to replace those that have lost their oomph in the garden. Each plant remains viable for perhaps three or four years and even though daughter plants are spreading by way of runners, restoration of the original patch is needed on an annual basis, especially three years after it was first established.

We've covered planting time. Planting depth, feeding and moisture are other key areas.

New plants should be set out so the soil is up to the crown but not over it. Holes should be dug so the roots can be spread out. A planting hole fashioned with a soil cone at the base to hold the plant and allow for root dispersion is ideal. New plants should have soil firmed up around the base of the plant and watered thoroughly with a slow-trickle soaker hose. Avoid at all times overhead irrigation of strawberries as this can prompt disease which can in turn disfigure or ruin the berries and spread disease.

Spacing can be tricky, but a good rule of thumb is space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows and space rows 18 inches apart. This leaves plenty of room for runner and with them, the daughter plants that reach out and take root. It is important not to overcrowd the bed, as doing so will lead to a drop in production. Give the plants room to stretch and they will reward you with tasty berries.

One other growing tip is this: Disease can be reduced and overall performance increased by spreading a mulch layer of straw around the plants. Only a couple of inches are needed and the straw will help reduce spread of disease organisms and keep the soil helpfully cool and moist.

Beds should be kept evenly moist, but certainly not soggy or allowed to dry out. Strawberries grow in even poor soils - the natural fertility of the soil is not as important as sharp drainage. Strawberries do best on meager feedings; too much fertilizer leads to foliage at the expense of fruit-producing blossoms.