Raccoon Care - Orphaned Wildlife Care

1 week old Raccoons

CONTENTS

IS THIS RACCOON TRULY ORPHANED?

THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS: WARM THE BABY

THE SECOND ORDER OF BUSINESS: CHECK FOR INJURIES

ATTEMPTING TO REUNITE WITH THE MOTHER

IF THE BABY IS AN ORPHAN THAT NEEDS TO REMAIN IN CARE, READ ON

BABY RACCOONS NEED TO BE RAISED WITH OTHER BABY RACCOONS

RACCOONS DO NOT MAKE PETS

RAISING A SINGLE RACCOON

INITIAL FEEDINGS NEED TO BE REHYDRATION SOLUTION

FEEDING TOOLS FOR BABY RACCOONS

KMR OR ESBILAC ARE MILK REPLACEMENT FORMULAS FOR BABY RACCOONS

HOW MUCH TO FEED IS BASED ON THE BABY RACCOON’S BODY WEIGHT

HOW OFTEN TO FEED WILL DEPEND ON THE RACCOON’S AGE

FEEDING A BABY RACCOON

BATHROOM BUSINESS #1: FLUIDS IN THE TOP, OUT THE BOTTOM

BATHROOM BUSINESS #2

FIRST HOUSING – BIRTH TO ABOUT 6 WEEKS

INTERMEDIATE HOUSING – 6 WEEKS TO ABOUT 12 WEEKS

PRE-RELEASE CAGING – 12 WEEKS TO ABOUT 16 OR 18 WEEKS

RELEASE WHERE THEY WERE RAISED AND HOUSED OUTSIDE THEY WILL BE BONDED TO PERSON AND PLACE

AFTER RELEASE

CHART: STAGES OF DEVELOPMENT AND CARE GUIDE FOR RACCOONS BASED ON EXPERIENCE OF WILDLIFE REHABILITATORS IN THE NORTHERN UNITED STATES AND CANADA

MEDICATIONS

INTERNET SITES

IS THIS RACCOON TRULY ORPHANED?

When people find young raccoons, whether tiny eyes-closed infants or slightly older eyes-open (but un-weaned) babies, it is usually due to one of 6 scenarios:

1. The mother is gone – trapped and removed or killed. Young can be found in a den or on the ground, or even in hard to reach places in and around our dwellings – having fallen inside walls for example, when the mother is removed, and they are left behind in an attic or tree cavity.
2. The den site has been disturbed or destroyed – often due to human activity such as tree cutting, or renovation/building work on sheds, garages, decks, roofs, chimneys or attics.
3. The mother is moving small eyes-closed babies, and one or more have fallen or been separated. Older young, big enough to be out following her can also become separated – for example by being chased by a dog or other predator or falling into something they can not get out of, such as a dumpster.
4. The den site has become too hot – occasionally, after a prolonged heat spell later in the season, mobile eyes-open young may be compelled to leave their den during daylight hours, if the den is in a too-warm enclosed space (such as an attic or tree cavity).
5. Predation of the nest has occurred – and one or more baby is left behind.
6. The family pet brings a baby home – this scenario can follow any of the first five, if a pet finds a baby on the ground.

Obviously the first scenario means the young are orphaned and in immediate, often desperate need. Eyes-closed infants will be dehydrated and starving, usually having waited for their mother for a day or more before wiggling out of the nest. Slightly older eyes-open babies may be scared and wary or they may be desperate enough to approach and follow people. Baby raccoons rely on their mother for a long time. They wean gradually after about 12 weeks in the wild, but remain with her for close to a year, and den with her over their first winter. So, a fluffy little 8 week old, eyes-open baby, although mobile, is still totally dependent.

In the second, third and fourth (but only occasionally fifth and sixth) scenarios, the young may still be reunited with their mother, so long as they are not injured (unless the injury is superficial). One thing to note is that eyes-open babies who have been missing their mother for only hours rather than days (i.e., mom is still nearby) will be more wary than in the first scenario, and not likely to approach people, because they will not yet be desperate.

The reason the fourth and fifth scenarios only occasionally lead to a reunion with the mother is that predators are often attracted to unguarded den sites, where the mother has already gone missing (trapped out and removed, or killed), or predation itself has caused an injury, and an injured baby should not be returned to its mother.

CAUTION about “creating” orphans: Raccoons choose warm protected places to have their young (usually in March, April, or May), sometimes in and around our dwellings – in attics or chimneys for example. Baby raccoons are often “created” orphans when homeowners hire pest control companies to remove the mother. The best solution for babies and usually the homeowner as well is to leave the mother raccoon alone for a grace period of a few weeks – she will move her young herself once they become mobile and start to venture out with her on her foraging rounds. At that point it is safe to exclude the entire family and make repairs so the situation does not repeat itself the following spring. If you have found very young babies (with scant fur and eyes closed) and their birth nest has been destroyed or the mother barred entry to it, she may not be able to take the babies elsewhere. She may not have another den site safe and warm enough to keep such fragile infants alive. Therefore if this is the case, if at all possible, try to restore the birth nest in hopes the mother will be able to continue to care for the babies there. Older, mobile and fully furred youngsters are hardier, and the mother is more likely to have an alternate den site that will suffice for them in an emergency – and she will often choose to move older babies if the birth nest is threatened.

CAUTION about kidnapping raccoon babies: As mentioned above in the fourth scenario, later in the season, after a prolonged heat spell, older eyes-open young may occasionally be compelled to leave a too-hot den during daylight hours. If you think this is the case it is best to wait and watch. If the young seem at risk of straying off too far gather them into a cardboard box or pet carrier for the day – set in a safe comfortably cool place in the shade nearby. Also, baby raccoons do not venture far out of their birth den until they are about 8-9 weeks old, but at that point they start to follow their mother on her foraging rounds after dusk. They will still be un-weaned and totally dependent on her. At this stage, the mother sometimes chooses a safe tree and instructs the young to remain there while she continues to forage – and occasionally the impatient babies will come down and play around, crying for mom to come back. It will be hard for you to tell if babies are orphaned in either of the cases above, but if they look well, it is best to wait and watch for several hours before taking any action. Be very careful not to scare them away since the hope is that mom will be back for them soon.

NOTE: if the mother is still there she will take her young back, given the opportunity, even if you have touched them. If they are old enough to follow her she will encourage them and lead them and if they are small she will pick them up one at a time and carry them off to safety providing she has a safe and warm enough den site to take them to.

READ ON TO FIND OUT HOW TO DO THIS PROPERLY

THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS: WARM THE BABY

1. Use a soft cloth to pick the baby up. Wear gloves for eyes-open youngsters – they will be scared and may put up a bit of a struggle and growl out of fear, and they have little nubs of baby teeth by about 4 weeks of age. Always take precautions to avoid being bitten while you are handling any animal, but don’t be alarmed by the fuss a baby raccoon makes when first picked up, it will soon calm down when it realizes you are not going to harm it. Wrap the baby up in the cloth, snugly, head and all, and let it get warm by holding it in your hands. You want it completely warmed up, to your own body temperature. Mother raccoons do not seem to recognize a baby as their own if its body temperature is not normal, and babies cool down quickly once they lose the insulated protection of the nest.

2. If there is more than one baby, or it is very cold you will want to put them in a small box or pet carrier with several layers of soft cloths while they warm up. Make sure bedding is non-ravelling since wiggly little animals can quickly become strangled in threads or holes. Provide external heat by setting the box/carrier half-on, half-off a heating pad set to low, or put a hot water bottle well wrapped in a soft cloth in the box beside them so they can snuggle against it. Make sure there is enough room in the box/carrier for them to wiggle away from the hot water bottle (or to the part of the box/carrier not on the heating pad) if they get too hot. Cover them over, head and all, with soft cloths. If using a box, close it securely since even young babies may escape, but make sure to punch breathing holes in the top. Place the box/carrier in a warm, dark, quiet place and check them often, every 10 or 15 minutes, while their body temperature returns to normal (your body temperature).

THE SECOND ORDER OF BUSINESS: CHECK FOR INJURIES

1. In a safe spot, with good light – in a small washroom for example, unwrap the baby and check it all over for injuries. Wear latex exam gloves or rubber gloves. It is handy to have a few more clean cloths and a basin of warm water and a washcloth (white is best so you can see any blood) to clean away dirt from a suspected injury. At this stage it is important for an adult to carefully assess the raccoon in a quiet room without children or pets present. The washcloth should be wrung out in warm water and then made to mimic the mother gently licking the baby clean – all over. Try to use a light cloth like those used for human babies so that you can feel the orphan through the cloth. Go slowly and take your time, and this will help to calm the baby and make your examination easier.

2. When cleaning the baby, please pay special attention to the face, checking for dried blood in the nose, and mouth, to make sure it can breathe easily. Also pay attention to the genital area – try to see if the baby pees when gently stimulated with the soft warm cloth or a Q-tip or tissue, and note the colour of the urine. On males stimulate the penis – a small nub an inch or two above the anus (half way to the navel); on females stimulate the little nub very near the anus. Stimulate for a full minute or two using light feathery strokes.

3. Remove any external parasites you see (fleas, ticks), and any fly eggs. Fly eggs are whitish specks that will be stuck to the fur or inside/around wounds, eyes, ears, nose, mouth, or genitals – hatched eggs are tiny whitish larvae. If there are many such parasites it is a good indication the mother has been missing for days – and in that case you will need to carefully bathe the baby in a basin of warm water with a little diluted dishwashing liquid (“Dawn” is good) to get rid of the parasites. An old toothbrush will help dislodge sticky fly eggs. Thoroughly dry and warm the baby after its bath.

4. In terms of injuries to look for: falls can result in broken legs, and head or spinal injuries. Very young eyes-closed infants will be naturally weak, so it may be harder for you to tell, but look to see that the legs are held in the right position, not twisted or dragging limply. Older eyes-open youngsters should use all four legs. Try lightly pinching each paw and the tail, since if the baby can feel the pinch it will pull away. Cat caught babies may have obvious injuries or sometimes just puncture wounds that are almost invisible to our eyes, and because cats’ claws and teeth carry a bacteria that is fatal to wildlife like baby raccoons, cat caught babies should be put on a course of antibiotics right away. An injured baby is not a candidate to try to return to its mother – please take it to a veterinarian for an assessment.

ATTEMPTING TO REUNITE WITH THE MOTHER

The raccoon is NOT a candidate for attempting to reunite with mom if it:

1. is injured, unless the injury is superficial
2. has a lot of fleas or fly eggs/larvae (which is a good indication the mother has been missing for days)
3. is thin and debilitated, perhaps with urine that is dark in colour – indicating dehydration
4. is an eyes-open baby that has been following people around

If you believe the mother is still around, and you attempt to return the young to her, please be patient and very vigilant. Since the mother raccoon will be most active after dark, put them out at dusk as close as possible to where you found them or where you know the den to be (mom will not know to look anywhere else). Improvise a way to illuminate the spot, such as an extension cord and “trouble” light or powerful flashlight that will last for hours – so that you are able to monitor from a distance or from inside a building. The young need to be kept safe and warm. Place them in a sturdy box or pet carrier in a nest of soft non-ravelling cloth. Put a hot water bottle well wrapped in a cloth in the box for them to snuggle against. You will need to refill it every few hours, but if you add a couple of pop bottles filled with hot water beside it and wrap it all in an old wool sweater, the heat will last longer. Make sure there is room in the carrier for the babies to wiggle away from the heat if they get too hot. Remember, mother raccoons do not seem to recognise a baby as their own if its body temperature is not normal.

Prop the door of the carrier closed with something heavy enough to keep the babies in, but not so heavy that the mother can not move it to take them out. The mother may come, and check, and then leave only to come back in several hours for them. She may be off preparing a new den for them or simply anxious, cautious and scared. She can pick up and move only one baby at a time, so unless the babies are old enough to be able to follow her, the process will take hours. You will need to watch very carefully and protect the ones remaining (propping the pet carrier closed again each time after she leaves) while the mother relocates each one in turn. Please do not leave them unmonitored, they will be vulnerable to predation, and need you standing by to intervene if a predator discovers them. If the mother comes and takes some but leaves one or more behind, bring them inside at dawn for care and try again the next day at dusk. You can try a third night also, but after that it is unlikely the mother is still around.

IF THE BABY IS AN ORPHAN THAT NEEDS TO REMAIN IN CARE, READ ON

When a wild baby loses its mother it is in desperate trouble. Its best chance for survival will be for a rescuer like you to find a wildlife rehabilitator. Wildlife rehabilitators are community volunteers, often licensed by government wildlife agencies, and they will know how to raise your rescued baby so that it is releasable back into the wild. They will buddy it up with other orphans of its species and provide expert care. Your search for a wildlife rehabilitator may take you several hours and many phone calls, but try not to give up – they are usually unpaid volunteers and there are not nearly enough of them to provide this service in all areas or for all orphans. Try calling local humane societies, animal rescue groups, vet clinics and pet stores for contact information in your area, or try searching the Internet by typing in “wildlife rehabilitation” or “wildlife rehabilitator” and your location.

If you need to care for the baby while you are searching for a wildlife rehabilitator, or if you are unable, despite your best efforts, to find one in your area, please read this entire article now before beginning the care. It will help you avoid simple mistakes that are easy to make, and could result in injury or death to the baby and heartache for you. It’s a good idea to also print it out, so it’s handy to check details as questions arise when you are caring for the baby.

In some jurisdictions it is illegal to keep wildlife without a license, even small babies that need care. Carefully research the situation in your area.

Please keep wild babies separate from your pets and quarantine them for at least two weeks.

Orphaned raccoons can have parasites and are susceptible to several illnesses:

1. As noted above, debilitated little ones may have fleas, ticks, fly eggs or hatched larvae.

2. By the time their eyes open, raccoon kits can have intestinal roundworms (baylisascaris procyonis) that have matured enough to start shedding eggs in their feces – eggs that if ingested can infect other species including humans. Assume for your sake as well as theirs that baby raccoons have these parasites and de-worm them once they are stable (hydrated and eating well) if their eyes are open. If they are tiny when you find them, wait and de-worm them the day after their eyes open. Regular de-worming during the time they remain in your care is also highly recommended.

3. Raccoons are susceptible to Canine Distemper and three closely related parvoviruses: Feline Panleukopenia (a parvovirus sometimes referred to as “cat distemper”), Raccoon Parvoviral Enteritis and Mink Enteritis Virus.

4. Raccoons are characterized as a “high risk” rabies vector species. A baby raccoon that scratches or bites or sometimes even touches a neighbour’s child, or anyone for that matter, can end up confiscated by your government wildlife agency to be killed for rabies testing. Like any mammal raccoons can contract the rabies virus, but despite the “high risk” classification given this species, rabies incidence in adult raccoons is low and in babies rare. A raccoon must be sick with rabies to spread the disease, there is no “carrier” state. During the time it is “incubating” the virus, i.e. the time between exposure to the virus (rabies is almost always contracted via a bite from an infected animal) and onset of symptoms of illness, it is not yet sick itself, and is not infective to others. Once an animal is sick with rabies it will die within a short time.

Like a puppy or kitten, your rescued baby raccoons may become sick if they are not vaccinated and treated for parasites, so it is important to try to find a veterinarian who is willing to cooperate with you while you care for them until they are big enough to release back into the wild. Veterinarians will have de-worming medications and vaccinations formulated to protect pets against distemper, parvovirus and rabies, and these vaccines can be administered “off-label” to raccoon kits to protect them as well. At the end of this article you will find a list of vaccines and de-worming medications that wildlife rehabilitators have used for raccoons, and links to on-line sources.

BABY RACCOONS NEED TO BE RAISED WITH OTHER BABY RACCOONS

If you determine that the raccoon is orphaned, it will have littermates that also need help so please continue to check the area frequently for a week or more. If no siblings are found contact local humane societies, animal rescue groups, vet clinics and pet stores to try to find a baby raccoon buddy. Please make every effort to search out a buddy, but when introducing a new baby raccoon to ones you have already quarantine it for two weeks first in case it is incubating an illness. Young raccoons are very social, hate to be alone, and readily accept other baby raccoons, even if their ages are not exactly matched. Baby raccoons raised with other baby raccoons bond to each other, learn from each other, and rely on each other for warmth, play and companionship not only during rehabilitation but after release as well – young raccoons in nature will stay together and den with their siblings and mother until they are about one year old. Please understand that it is vitally important to the raccoon’s proper socialization and eventual release into the wild that it be raised with other raccoons. It must learn the social “etiquette”, the “language” of being a raccoon. A baby raccoon that is raised alone without other baby raccoons has a greatly reduced chance of a successful release, and will be very difficult for you to keep happy. It will feel insecure and cry when left alone.

RACCOONS DO NOT MAKE PETS

Please think ahead and focus on the fact that by the end of the summer or early in the fall the small baby you have rescued will need to be set free into the wide world. Raccoons belong in the wild, and do not make pets. Once they are no longer babies, they are active, and independent – and yes, if their natural independence is thwarted they will become very destructive and bite the hand that feeds them. Spend a few minutes thinking about the deprivation of a life in a cage or a house for such a wild animal.

RAISING A SINGLE RACCOON

If it seems impossible to find a buddy – try not to give up, but continue looking, because even older youngsters will still accept other young raccoons without much fuss, and it is very important to release hand-raised raccoons in late summer or early fall in small groups of 3-6 animals to mimic a family size unit, so that they can den together for warmth over their first winter. While continuing to search for buddies, make every effort to raise a single orphan (as you would a group of orphans) so that it retains a healthy fear of pets (particularly dogs) and other humans. When it is released its very life will depend on such natural wariness.

On the other hand, a single orphan will bond to you as its mother substitute because like other species of mammals, a baby raccoon’s psychological well being depends on the feeling of security it will get from loving attentive care. Thus you will need to handle, cuddle and play with it, to provide comfort and some of the tactile stimulation it will miss from not having a mother or siblings to sleep and play with every day. Interaction with other people should be minimal – the ideal being that only one person ever handles it.

A single baby raccoon is nothing if not demanding and needs lots of care. Raccoon kits hate being alone and a single will cry a lot if left on its own. For them it is a deprived situation, because as noted above, in nature they would spend their first year of life constantly in the company of their mother and siblings. However, please remember that if the baby scratches or nips someone it could end up paying with its life. Therefore, except for the times when you interact with it, keep it confined safely in a room away from high traffic human activity. Do not treat it like a pet, in the sense of getting it used to free run inside the house, or habituating it to other people or species it should fear (such as dogs) since this will increase the likelihood it will get into trouble with people or pets once it is released.

INITIAL FEEDINGS NEED TO BE REHYDRATION SOLUTION

Orphans that have been without their mother will be suffering from chill and dehydration.

They must be thoroughly warmed first, and then, although they are starving, they must be given warmed rehydration solution before any milk formula is offered. Their dehydrated little body is simply unable to digest food (i.e. the milk solids in formula) and if given formula or other food before they are rehydrated it can kill them, or cause debilitating diarrhea. Pedialyte is a rehydration solution made for human babies, and is available in drug stores – it often comes fruit flavoured, but if you can find the unflavoured kind that is best for wildlife babies. It should be heated to body temperature and offered frequently: every 30 minutes to babies that will take only a small amount, or every 2 hours to those that take a larger amount. Feed only Pedialyte for the first several feedings– as much as the baby wants until it is rehydrated and producing lots of light yellow urine when you stimulate it. Stimulate it at each feeding using light feathery strokes.

In an emergency, a homemade rehydration solution can be made by mixing: ½ teaspoon salt + ½ tablespoon of sugar + 2 cups of water – warm slightly to dissolve sugar and salt. Use this homemade solution only until you can get to a drug store. Pedialyte is a balanced electrolyte solution, much better for the baby. Once Pedialyte is open refrigerate between feedings, and discard any unused portion after 72 hours. It can be frozen in an ice cube tray and the cubes stored in the freezer for use within a couple of months.

FEEDING TOOLS FOR BABY RACCOONS

At first, use a human baby nipple, pushed onto the end of a 10cc syringe. Once feeding is well established graduate to a human baby bottle and nipple (see photo of feeding tools). Please do not use the small pet nursing bottles available at pet stores. It is critical for YOU to control the flow of fluids, and with the little pet nursing bottles you cannot do that – nor will the baby raccoon be able to nurse from them anyway. The short stubby nipples on these little bottles seem to look “right” to our eyes but they are next to useless for feeding baby raccoons. For the first few feedings it is best to use a 10cc oral feeding syringe (graduating later to a human baby bottle). You can find syringes at a vet clinic or drug store – ask for o-ring syringes rather than the single use ones which will stick after only a few uses. A human baby bottle nipple (try to find the ones made for premature babies since they are a little softer) works well for baby raccoons, and can be pushed onto the end of the 10cc syringe. If the fit is not tight enough you can use a wire twist tie to hold it on more securely (see photo of feeding tools).

If you find that a human baby nipple is too big for a very tiny newborn raccoon, PetAg makes a replacement nipple that is about the size of a woman’s baby finger, and although it fits their little pet nursing bottles, please use it instead pushed on the end of a 3cc oral feeding syringe (see photo of feeding tools). To make a perfect hole pierce the nipple with a darning needle and then boil it and cool it with the needle still inserted. If the resulting hole is too small do this again with a larger needle or toothpick. If the hole is a little to large, it will shrink slightly if you soak the nipple in boiling water again briefly.

Practice with the syringe and nipple by expressing liquid into a cup before trying to feed the baby. For the first few feedings when the baby is debilitated or desperately hungry it may be difficult to establish a smooth, gentle feeding regime. The baby may fight against accepting the nipple or be frantic and want to suck the fluids too quickly (risking inhaling fluid into its lungs, which must be avoided), or weak and need you to slowly drip small amounts of rehydration fluid into its mouth. The first feedings may feel a little like a raccoon wrestling match. You will likely have to clamp your hand gently but firmly around the baby’s muzzle holding its mouth over the nipple at first while you drip formula into its mouth, until it understands what this new feeding regime is all about. Some baby raccoons are very opinionated and need a lot of encouragement to start nursing from the nipple while others catch on easily. Try massaging its back from its neck down to the base of the tail to stimulate its “purr” and sucking reaction.

KMR OR ESBILAC ARE MILK REPLACEMENT FORMULAS FOR BABY RACCOONS

KMR is a kitten milk replacement formula, and Esbilac is a puppy milk replacement formula, that you should be able to purchase at a vet clinic or pet store (both products are made by PetAg). KMR is closer in terms of fat-protein ratio to the mother raccoon's milk. Even if staff at a clinic or store claim they have a product that is "just as good" (for example, those little boxes of cat milk for adult cats) to substitute please do not accept it, but call around until you find either KMR or Esbilac. Get the powdered product rather than the liquid, and keep it refrigerated after opening. Cow's milk, goat's milk, soymilk, human baby formulas, and most other pet products are not suitable and will likely cause severe diarrhea/dehydration, malnutrition or death for the baby, and a great deal of heartache for you. Likewise, the homemade recipes for wildlife formulas that are posted to the Internet are often referred to as "death formulas" by experienced wildlife rehabilitators, so please do not use them. Again - your baby raccoon's life depends on you getting the right formula - if you get the wrong formula both the baby and you will undoubtedly suffer.

Gradual introduction of milk formula, following rehydration: After the baby has had several feedings of rehydration solution introduce milk formula gradually using the following 4 steps:

1. 1. mix 3 parts rehydration solution with 1 part milk formula for one or two feedings
2. 2. next, mix rehydration solution and milk formula half and half for one or two feedings
3. 3. next, mix 1 part rehydration solution with 3 parts milk formula for one or two feedings
4. 4. finally, go to full strength milk formula

One easy way to do this is to draw up one syringe of KMR or Esbilac (reconstituted according to the directions below) and express it into a coffee mug, then draw up 3 syringes of Pedialyte and express that into the mug. Mix and then feed with that solution, warmed to body temperature, for the first introduction of formula feeding . . . and so on. Some wildlife rehabilitators advise using plain water instead of Pedialyte to dilute formula in this 4 step gradual introduction. Important mixing instructions for PetAg formula (Esbilac): See www.ewildagain.org for detailed information on mixing Esbilac. PetAg changed the manufacturing process for Esbilac in 2008, resulting in a powder that does not dissolve as readily - the powder particles apparently have a hard 'shell'. So, it is important to follow these mixing directions carefully. The milk powder must be dissolved fully for your baby raccoon to be able to digest it.

• Keep powdered formula refrigerated after it is opened.
• Turn the can over several times to mix powder before measuring out what you need because some nutrients (the heavier solids) may settle to the bottom.
• Mix up enough formula for 24 hours at a time and keep it refrigerated.
• Mix 1 part powder + 2 parts water.
• Use very hot water (about 175F), but not boiling because boiling may destroy some nutrients.
• Add half of the water and stir thoroughly for at least a minute to make a smooth thick liquid, then add the other half of the water and again mix thoroughly.
• If it is lumpy when you mix it, strain it, but push the lumps through the strainer so you retain all the nutrients.
• Try not to incorporate air into the formula as you mix it, and always let the reconstituted formula rest for several hours in the fridge (at least 4, preferably overnight) before using it to feed the baby. This will allow the milk powder particles to fully dissolve.
• At feeding time stir the formula again lightly and then remove only what is needed for that feeding. Warm the serving and stir again before feeding.
• You may add a tiny bit of plain unsweetened full fat yoghurt (or probiotics such as lactobacillus acidophilus from a drug store) at feeding time to the warmed formula, once or twice a day. If using yoghurt add about 1 teaspoon (5 ml) to each 1/3 cup of warmed formula.

Another Option but it must be ordered: Fox Valley Animal Nutrition makes milk replacement formulas specifically for wild orphans, including baby raccoons. If you have more than one baby raccoon and, if they are very young and will require formula feeding for some time, you might want to look into this option. It is available online at http://foxvalleynutrition.com or call 800-679-4666 (in the U.S.) or 815-385-6404 (outside the U.S.). You will save on the cost of formula by ordering it because pet store prices are usually higher. The Fox Valley formula for baby raccoons is 40/25. If you order the Fox Valley formula, once it arrives it is a good idea to gradually change over from the Esbilac or KMR you have been feeding: Mix 3 parts Esbilac or KMR with 1 part Fox Valley for a few feedings, then mix the formulas half and half for another few feedings, then 1 part Esbilac or KMR with 3 parts Fox Valley for another few feedings, and then go to full strength Fox Valley.