Removing Chrome Plating From Watch Cases - WatchUSeek

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Habitant H I always seem to have one or two vintage watch cases waiting to be restored that have failed chrome plating over ferrous metal cases. Typically, I've slowly and patiently removed the old plating by physical means – some form of abrasive, carefully used so as to remove the old plating prior to re-plating and yet not change or alter the profile of the case in hand at the same time. It's far from an ideal approach. And takes a long, long time as I feel it has to be done manually, rather than using powered wheels, etc. There seems to be three non-abrasive methods to use: 1. Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) 2. Sodium Hydroxide (lye) 3. Reverse electroysis. Does anyone have any experience on using any of these techniques and care to share their opinion as to the efficacy and merits of one of them? I don't think I'd be likely to try reverse electrolysis, as I don't have the equipment (not to mention that the the YouTube video I've seen of this in action makes it clear that this is even more dangerous that 1. or 2. Thanks for any advice. #1 · Jul 29, 2015 I always seem to have one or two vintage watch cases waiting to be restored that have failed chrome plating over ferrous metal cases. Typically, I've slowly and patiently removed the old plating by physical means – some form of abrasive, carefully used so as to remove the old plating prior to re-plating and yet not change or alter the profile of the case in hand at the same time. It's far from an ideal approach. And takes a long, long time as I feel it has to be done manually, rather than using powered wheels, etc. There seems to be three non-abrasive methods to use: 1. Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) 2. Sodium Hydroxide (lye) 3. Reverse electroysis. Does anyone have any experience on using any of these techniques and care to share their opinion as to the efficacy and merits of one of them? I don't think I'd be likely to try reverse electrolysis, as I don't have the equipment (not to mention that the the YouTube video I've seen of this in action makes it clear that this is even more dangerous that 1. or 2. Thanks for any advice. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jul 29, 2015 I've purchased chrome stripper, and that works well, especially if heated. Be careful though, small items can disintegrate! Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD #3 · Jul 29, 2015 Chrome stripper - is that a brand name? I presume it's Muriatic Acid packaged up for consumers… (or Caustic Soda&#8230

Snakepottery said: I've purchased chrome stripper, and that works well, especially if heated. Be careful though, small items can disintegrate! Andy Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Click to expand...

0 Reply #4 · Jul 29, 2015 Nope, a generic term. I bought a plating kit of the web which included a chrome stripper, seemed to work well, when I had success. unfortunately I had very inconsistent results, at least with nickel plating. Not tried the chrome replica playing yet. I sent a watch case and bezel if for professional chrome playing, whilst it was expensive it was fantastic. Rather put my mediocre attempts to shame😕 since then I haven't done any. I think it was only a strong sodium hydroxide with hydrochloride acid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD #5 · Jul 29, 2015 Thanks.

Snakepottery said: Nope, a generic term. I bought a plating kit of the web which included a chrome stripper, seemed to work well, when I had success. unfortunately I had very inconsistent results, at least with nickel plating. Not tried the chrome replica playing yet. I sent a watch case and bezel if for professional chrome playing, whilst it was expensive it was fantastic. Rather put my mediocre attempts to shame since then I haven't done any. I think it was only a strong sodium hydroxide with hydrochloride acid. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Click to expand...

1 Reply #7 · Jul 31, 2015

Habitant said: I always seem to have one or two vintage watch cases waiting to be restored that have failed chrome plating over ferrous metal cases. Typically, I've slowly and patiently removed the old plating by physical means - some form of abrasive, carefully used so as to remove the old plating prior to re-plating and yet not change or alter the profile of the case in hand at the same time. It's far from an ideal approach. And takes a long, long time as I feel it has to be done manually, rather than using powered wheels, etc. There seems to be three non-abrasive methods to use: 1. Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) 2. Sodium Hydroxide (lye) 3. Reverse electroysis. Does anyone have any experience on using any of these techniques and care to share their opinion as to the efficacy and merits of one of them? I don't think I'd be likely to try reverse electrolysis, as I don't have the equipment (not to mention that the the YouTube video I've seen of this in action makes it clear that this is even more dangerous that 1. or 2. Thanks for any advice. Click to expand...

I work for a company that supplies plating chemistry so have a little knowledge. You have to remember that chrome is plated over nickel, do you want to remove that as well? To remove the chrome you can use 50% hydrochloric then if you don't want to, or have to, remove the nickel you will still have to reactivate the surface. For that you can use 10% sulphuric acid. You have to bare in mind that any imperfection that is through the chrome will more than likely be through the nickel as well as the chrome is only 0.0005 inch thick. The case would then have to be polished before being copper plated to allow a build up of material that will cover up the blemishes. The soup that is left over from stripping would have to be disposed of safely and legally and should not be tipped down the drain. Forget about reverse electrolysis as it is very difficult to do, chemicals are expensive and equipment even more so, and even if you do manage it you'll still be left with a chemical soup to dispose of safely and legally. I'd suggest that as you are only likely to do small objects and not very often that you might be better contacting a local plating shop. If you give me an approximate area I'd be happy to suggest a shop that you could use. Graham #8 · Jul 31, 2015 (Edited) Thanks for your reply. I've used 3 companies for plating in the UK (the other was RePlateIt in Canada), but I'm always open to suggestions if you have them. I guess what I'd really like would be to able clean off the old plating myself and prepare the case for any replating that has to happen. There's always a bit of surface deterioration, etc to polish out. All the companies are ok platers, but I suspect that their attention to detail is a teeny bit more casual than my own. And, by the way, I used 'chrome' as a generic term - typical 40s and 50s cases seem to be chrome over base (brass seems to be what I come across most often), wouldn't they? That's been my impression; I always thought that rhodium is more modern process for watch case finishing. But I guess what you've suggested is that removing the plating isn't that easy, right? 0 Reply #9 · Jul 31, 2015 You're right, it isn't that easy to do well and there's always the chance of doing yourself harm with various nasties. Get it wrong and chemical burns might be the least of your worries as some of the gasses given off will kill you if you get mixes wrong. Do it outdoors if you can as this will lessen your risk and remember that you still have to dispose of them afterwards. As you mentioned brass you have to be careful of using HCI to strip to bare metal as it will try and remove the zinc from brass. If you use your local plater to strip back you can then spend the time polishing the bits ready for re-plating, most jobbing shop will allow you to do this. This will take the chemical issues away from you and still allow you to do the re-polishing before returning for plating. Let me know what area you live in and I'll suggest someone who can help Graham #10 · Jul 31, 2015

GrahamB said: You're right, it isn't that easy to do well and there's always the chance of doing yourself harm with various nasties. Get it wrong and chemical burns might be the least of your worries as some of the gasses given off will kill you if you get mixes wrong. Click to expand...

To play devil's advocate, I would say that if it did kill him, there would be nothing more to worry about. ;-) :think: 0 Reply #12 · Aug 22, 2015 Hi, sorry to hijack the thread but I don't suppose anyone could recommend someone to re chrome a UG who's case has seen far better days. UK based preferably Thanks! #13 · Aug 22, 2015 I used a company called Ashford Chroming. Not cheap, they have a minimum charge of £65 I recall, and my case which was a 3 piece cost £80 but well worth it. They did a fabulous job which included striping and triple playing. Don't hold your breath with them, very slow at around 6 weeks but worth the wait in my opinion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD #15 · Aug 22, 2015

Snakepottery said: I used a company called Ashford Chroming. Not cheap, they have a minimum charge of £65 I recall, and my case which was a 3 piece cost £80 but well worth it. They did a fabulous job which included striping and triple playing. Don't hold your breath with them, very slow at around 6 weeks but worth the wait in my opinion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Click to expand...

Amazing! Thanks for the recommendation, I picked up the watch super cheap so even with the chroming cost Im happy. Six weeks is going to be a bit of a killer though. I'll be sure to post some before and after shots 0 Reply #16 · Aug 22, 2015 Yes, we shall all look forward to the pics! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Insert Quotes Post Reply

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