Removing Front Hubs For Replacement Rotors - Nissan Patrol Forum

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Nissan Patrol MQ/MK 160/260 series

fwnsp F g'day guys, i'm in need of some knowledge! i've got new brake rotors to fit to the front of my mk (after 3 weeks of repco stuffing me around)and i'm having some trouble getting the hubs off to fit the brakes. first off, after reading the repair manual, it says to take the caliper off first, which i did, but how can i lock the axle so the hub doesn't rotate when i try to undo the bolts? second, there are 2 sets of 6 bolts. 6 standard hex-head bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, and 6 sunken hex (i.e. allen key) bolts that appear to hold the hub together. the manual indicates to remove the standard hex head bolts, but just wanting to confim this with someone who know. thirdly, can anyone confirm the correct touque settings? the manual has half the number of torque settings than sets of bolts on the hub. info about the car:1986 mq2/mk swb, free wheel hubs (lock/free not auto)the manual i'm refering to is a gregorys' 500 (mq series diesel) cheers guys, josh #1 · Jun 26, 2007 g'day guys, i'm in need of some knowledge! i've got new brake rotors to fit to the front of my mk (after 3 weeks of repco stuffing me around)and i'm having some trouble getting the hubs off to fit the brakes. first off, after reading the repair manual, it says to take the caliper off first, which i did, but how can i lock the axle so the hub doesn't rotate when i try to undo the bolts? second, there are 2 sets of 6 bolts. 6 standard hex-head bolts that hold the rotor to the hub, and 6 sunken hex (i.e. allen key) bolts that appear to hold the hub together. the manual indicates to remove the standard hex head bolts, but just wanting to confim this with someone who know. thirdly, can anyone confirm the correct touque settings? the manual has half the number of torque settings than sets of bolts on the hub. info about the car:1986 mq2/mk swb, free wheel hubs (lock/free not auto)the manual i'm refering to is a gregorys' 500 (mq series diesel) cheers guys, josh See less See more Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jun 27, 2007 Remove hex heads from the free wheeling hub before even jacking it up, remove freewheeling hub. Take wheel off, take caliper off, circlip, wheel bearing locking nuts / plate and remove hub with rotor, clean old crusty grease out being careful of the seal at the back. Unbolt rotor from hub and knock it off, bolt on new rotor on being careful of greasy hands, clean rotor with metho, repack wheel bearings, put rotor / hub assembly back being careful the of formentioned seal with wheel bearings. Spinning the rotor, tighten wheel bearing lightly enough to just remove play. Put a NEW locking plate (i think the part number is 400-40264) in and bend tabs over then on with the locking nut. Rest is just reversal. This is pretty much the same proceedure apart from the locking nut as GQ's and GU's. I ditched the double nut fiasco and put the GU locking type on mine. Torque settings to follow unless someone beats me. #3 · Jun 27, 2007 awsome, thanks mate. few q's, what size hex bit do i need? with the locking plate, i'm assuming i'd have to order 2? are there different part numbers for L and R? cheers #4 · Jun 27, 2007 Think its a 10mm hex if your hubs are like mine. Don't worry about the seal at the back. Replace it! omg, for the whole $10-$15 it'll cost you for the pair, replace them! Repack the wheel bearings as said earlier too. The lock washers are the same left and right. I just overhauled the whole front axle on the weekend, swivel hub bearings and seals, axle seals, hub seals, repack bearings, and reshim the front diff. Took like 2 days but everythings sweet now. Cheers Mick Oh i've got the gregorys manual as well as the genuine nissan manual, any torque settings you can't find here let me know and I'll try and be arsed to get them for ya #5 · Jul 14, 2007 update: after a bloody month of repco ****ing me around, i got rotors from another shop (3 days from manufacture to purchase, brilliant). i've taken everything off, and slid the rotor with the half-hub still attatched. i've taken out the rotor bolts, and according to the service manual, i have to take the bearing race and bearing out. just wondering how i do this, or if i even have to just to change the rotor over. cheers, josh #6 · Jul 14, 2007 Hey mate, i'm assuming you mean the bearing at the back of the hub that is held in by the seal. you don't have to take the bearing out but as stated before, for the $10 - $15 it will cost to replace them you would be better off taking them out, cleaning the whole lot and inspecting the bearings while ya at it. just lever out the old seal with a large flat tip screwdriver. if ya gunna replace it, it won't matter if ya bend it. good luck and spend that few dollars to save ya time down the track. darren #7 · Jul 18, 2007 Last time i got bearings for the MK it cost me $160 for the front. $80 a side

not cheap, so look after the ones you got! Once the hubs off with the disc just take the bolts out and give it a gentle belt lol. Should come off. I don't think you have to take bearings out to do it. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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