Rhubarb - Growing Your Own / RHS Gardening

Once established, rhubarb needs little maintenance, apart from removing flower stems and faded leaves, and mulching in spring. Clumps should also be divided once they become overcrowded. For a crop of early, sweeter stalks, you can force (or blanch) them in winter.

Watering and feeding

Once established, rhubarb rarely needs watering, but young plants and those in containers do need regular attention:

  • Newly planted rhubarb – water regularly during dry spells throughout its first growing season, until well rooted
  • Established rhubarb plants – water only during prolonged dry periods in summer. Growth will slow down and even stop if conditions are too hot and dry
  • Rhubarb in containers – water regularly throughout the growing season, as the compost will dry out quickly. Keep it moist but never waterlogged . Waterlogged compost can lead to roots rotting

Mulching (see below) should provide sufficient nutrients for rhubarb to grow well. If you have poor soil and growth is slow, applying a high-nitrogen, organic-based fertiliser, in spring or summer, will boost growth.

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Mulching

Every spring, apply a mulch of well-rotted organic matter, such as homemade garden compost, in a layer about 7cm (2½in) deep around rhubarb plants, but take care not to bury the crown, as that could cause rotting. Mulching helps to retain moisture in the soil and suppress weed growth.

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Forcing rhubarb

Earlier harvests of sweeter, tender, pale stalks can be produced by covering rhubarb plants with a forcing jar, tall bucket or dustbin in mid-winter, so the stems form in the dark. Choose an early variety, such as ‘Timperley Early’, and only use a strong, healthy plant. Once stalks appear, they will grow quickly so check them regularly. They'll be ready to harvest four to eight weeks after being covered.

After you have harvested the first flush of forced stems, remove the covering and allow the plant’s subsequent stems to develop normally. Avoid forcing the same plant in consecutive years. For more information on forcing rhubarb, see our guide below.

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Forcing rhubarb

For an even earlier harvest, lift some roots in November. Ideally leave the lifted roots outside for up to two weeks, to expose them to more cold - this is needed to overcome dormancy . Then pot up with peat-free multipurpose compost and bring into a cool room or greenhouse at a temperature of between 7-16ºC (45-60ºF). Exclude light with buckets and keep the roots only slightly moist. Stalks can usually be harvested in five weeks. Crowns forced in this manner are significantly weakened and usually discarded after harvest.

Removing flowers

Rhubarb clumps might produce flowering stems in spring and summer, these should be removed at the base as soon as they appear, to prevent them weakening the plant.It is believed that some varieties are more prone to flowering than others, and that seed raised rhubarb may have a higher likelihood of flowering. Flowering is more common in a wet summer or if a high nitrogen feed has been overused. Also, older plants that haven't been divided for many years are more likely to flower.

Dividing mature plants

Large clumps of rhubarb should be divided every five years or so, especially if the leaves are overcrowded or growth has become weaker. This will give you several vigorous new plants for your own garden or to share with friends, but only propagate from strong healthy plants to ensure they are virus-free. Dig up the entire clump while dormant , between mid-autumn and early spring. Use a spade or an old kitchen knife to slice it into several smaller sections, each with a portion of the rhizome (thickened underground stem) and at least one growing point ( bud ). Sections from the outer part are better than the centre of old plants. Discard any weak or decayed parts. Replant the sections straight away or wrap them in damp sacking for a short time if necessary.

Overwintering

Rhubarb is hardy and needs no protection over winter. In fact, exposure to cold is necessary to trigger new growth in spring. In autumn, allow the leaves to die back naturally, then cut or pull them all away to expose the growing points to winter cold. The faded leaves can be added to the compost bin – there’s no need to worry about the poisonous oxalic acid they contain, as this breaks down during decomposition.

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