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Physiography of the Alto Paraná basin

The Grande River rises in the Serra da Mantiqueira, part of the mountainous hinterland of Rio de Janeiro, and flows westward for approximately 680 miles; but its numerous waterfalls—such as the Marimbondo Falls, with a height of 72 feet (22 metres)—makes it of little use for navigation. The Paranaíba, which also has numerous waterfalls, is formed by many affluents, the northernmost headstream being the São Bartolomeu River, which rises just to the east of Brasília.

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From its origin in the Grande-Paranaíba confluence to its junction, some 750 miles downstream, with the Paraguay, the Alto Paraná receives many tributaries from both the right and the left. The three most important tributaries—the Tietê, Paranapanema, and Iguaçu rivers—all join the Alto Paraná on its left bank and have their sources within a few miles of the Atlantic coast of Brazil.

The Alto Paraná first flows in a southwesterly direction down a deep cleavage in the southern slope of the ancient Brazilian Highlands, the configuration of which determines its course. Just before it begins to run along the frontier between Brazil to the east and Paraguay to the west, the river has to cut through the Serra de Maracaju (Mbaracuyú), which in the past had the effect of a dam, until the Itaipu hydroelectric dam project was completed there in 1982; the river once expanded its bed into a lake 2.5 miles wide and 4.5 miles long, with Guaíra, Brazil, standing on the southern shore. The river’s passage through the mountains was, until 1982, marked by the Guairá Falls (Salto das Sete Quedas), which had eight times the water volume of the Niagara River of North America. Since the completion of the Itaipu project’s first stage, the falls and lake have been submerged, and a reservoir now extends upstream for some 120 miles and covers more than 700 square miles.

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The Iguaçu River (Iguaçu meaning “Great Water” in the Guaraní language) joins the Alto Paraná at the point where Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina converge. Rising in the Serra do Mar near the Brazilian city of Curitiba (for which reason it is sometimes called the Rio Grande de Curitiba), the Iguaçu flows about 380 miles from east to west, during which some 70 waterfalls reduce the river’s elevation by a total of about 2,650 feet. While the Ñacunday Falls are 131 feet high, the spectacular Iguaçu Falls, on the frontier between Brazil and Argentina, 14 miles upstream from the Iguaçu–Alto Paraná confluence, have a height of about 270 feet—almost 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls. As the river approaches the falls, it widens before plunging over the crescent-shaped edge, producing horseshoe-shaped cataracts more than two miles wide. Below the falls, the river passes for several miles through a gorge (Garganta del Diablo; literally, “Devil’s Throat”) that is only 164 feet wide between heights varying from 65 to 328 feet.

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From the Iguaçu confluence to its junction with the Paraguay River, the Alto Paraná continues as the frontier between Paraguay and Argentina. So long as it is flanked on the left (Argentine) bank by the steep edge of the Sierra de Misiones, the river proceeds in a generally southwesterly direction, but it twists repeatedly to and fro over a rocky bed studded with outcrops of porphyritic basalt. At Posadas, Argentina, however, where it is about 1.5 miles wide, the river turns abruptly westward and begins a more meandering course, embracing islands of considerable size and punctuated so frequently by rapids and by outcrops of basalt that navigation is difficult. At the Apipé Rapids the river is only about 4 to 6 feet deep.

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