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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Roll and tip problems

• Thread starter Woodland2828
• Start date May 25, 2011
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Who Replied? W

Woodland2828

New member

27 0 I sanded my hull with 120 grit and rolled and tipped with Brightside. I am not happy with the results because i can still see brush marks. My first attempt was with the foam brush and that looked so bad i sanded it all off. I then bought a better quality brush and that came out better but I'm still not happy with it. Any suggestions?

ScowVegas

Reporters

4,417 8 Chicago Was it really hot out? Direct sun? I'm thinking the stuff set up faster then it could level out - Also does it call for a reducer/thinner - Adding more thinner will reduce the viscosity and allow the brush marks to level out (if it calls for it) W

Woodland2828

New member

27 0 Michigan weather between 60 and 70. I didn't do it all on the same day. I thinned it about 2 oz per quart. Maybe I should have thinned it more put i have also seen directions of no thinning at all.

cavelamb

Super Anarchist

1,083 1 Texas

Knowitall said: Michigan weather between 60 and 70. I didn't do it all on the same day. I thinned it about 2 oz per quart. Maybe I should have thinned it more put i have also seen directions of no thinning at all. Click to expand...

What color? Dark colors show more. Which direction did you work? Horizontal or vertical. Maybe you should have tried a test section rather than doing the whole boat? Maybe that way you would learn about proper thinning, brush angle, speed, etc? F

five guys named moe

Member

244 0 Seattle In my experience, you need to thin more than that. More like 8%. You could try 5% and work up from there based on how the brush feels.

sailingrugger

Anarchist

786 0 Cleveland Yachting Club

Five Guys Named Moe said: In my experience, you need to thin more than that. More like 8%. You could try 5% and work up from there based on how the brush feels. Click to expand...

Use a hair brush, not foam. Make sure not to press too hard -- just let the tip ride against the surface. I tipped my boat's deck and topsides side to side/up and down (as opposed to along the waterline).

tommays

Super Anarchist

1,512 138 Northport Use the Redtree foam roller thin to the max and plan on more coats the brush should only pop the air bubbles

JimConlin

Anarchist

573 0 Wellesley, MA With Brightside, I've used Penetrol to stretch it out. Overall, while it's relatively easy to apply, Briteside's poor longevity has convinced me that LPU paints (Awlgrip, Perfection) are worth the added cost and effort. Last edited by a moderator: May 25, 2011 D

Dick Ishuge

Member

370 1

Jim Conlin said: With Brightside, I've used Penetrol to stretch it out. Overall, while it's relatively easy to apply, Briteside's poor longevity has convinced me that LPU paints (Awlgrip, Perfection) are worth the added cost and effort. Click to expand...

+1 perfection and perfection's thinner. Roll and tip. Make sure all pinholes filled !!!! Can add craterx if filling pinholes is not possible. I used a light wipe with Gougeon epoxy under. Beautiful. Last edited by a moderator: May 25, 2011

cavelamb

Super Anarchist

1,083 1 Texas

Dick Ishuge said:

Jim Conlin said: With Brightside, I've used Penetrol to stretch it out. Overall, while it's relatively easy to apply, Briteside's poor longevity has convinced me that LPU paints (Awlgrip, Perfection) are worth the added cost and effort. Click to expand...

+1 perfection and perfection's thinner. Roll and tip. Make sure all pinholes filled !!!! Can add craterx if filling pinholes is not possible. I used a light wipe with Gougeon epoxy under. Beautiful. Click to expand...

Hey BIG, How about a bit more verbiage about the "light wipe with Gourgeon epoxy under"? What exactly are you doing, and why? Inquiring minds, you know?

tommays

Super Anarchist

1,512 138 Northport It took 24 oz of Awlgrip mixed 2:1:1 per coat on a 29 ft hull how much you going to save ?

JimConlin

Anarchist

573 0 Wellesley, MA The big cost is in the prep, which has to be very good. Every zit shows, in high gloss!

mad

Super Anarchist

31,268 2,845 That island just off Europe

Knowitall said: I sanded my hull with 120 grit and rolled and tipped with Brightside. I am not happy with the results because i can still see brush marks. My first attempt was with the foam brush and that looked so bad i sanded it all off. I then bought a better quality brush and that came out better but I'm still not happy with it. Any suggestions? Click to expand...

120 grit prep?? try going down the grades a bit, 320 grit minimum. W

Woodland2828

New member

27 0 Thanks for the tips. Its been raining pretty steady so I might have to wait till next fall to redo it. I want to get it in the water to race next Wed. D

Dick Ishuge

Member

370 1

Cavelamb said:

Dick Ishuge said:

Jim Conlin said: With Brightside, I've used Penetrol to stretch it out. Overall, while it's relatively easy to apply, Briteside's poor longevity has convinced me that LPU paints (Awlgrip, Perfection) are worth the added cost and effort. Click to expand...

+1 perfection and perfection's thinner. Roll and tip. Make sure all pinholes filled !!!! Can add craterx if filling pinholes is not possible. I used a light wipe with Gougeon epoxy under. Beautiful. Click to expand...

Hey BIG, How about a bit more verbiage about the "light wipe with Gourgeon epoxy under"? What exactly are you doing, and why? Inquiring minds, you know? Click to expand...

This is all you ever need to know. http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/waynehicks/chapter_25_skimcoating.htm B

b6sfull

Anarchist

814 0 Midland, Ontario (Georgian Bay) temp/humidity all play a role......I varnish my hull every year....I like to use 320 grit wetsand.....70's temp is good...low humidity. no direct sunlight. 10% thinning. I always use a foam brush to tip....and always towards the wet finish, never tip to dry surface. I find that the brush carries too much product with it over and leaves excess at each end....hence it curtains. perhaps with Briteside, a soft brush, very soft brush would be best. and of course never go back to correct a mistake. Last edited by a moderator: May 31, 2011

BobBill

Super Anarchist

4,611 103 SE Minnesota. Great info. Appreciated, as I am roll/tipping small dinghy and encountered similar problems. Feint brush marks need to go...   I understand the light touch, but it seems where the new coat meets the previous coat one needs more pressure to spread out, mix, etc. Is that right or not thin enough?   I use mohair or foam short roller to smooth our on small flat areas, tip and proceed. On vertical surfaces, stern, just roll and tip small areas, applying toward previous application.   Advice to say thin 10%, is that by weight or volume? Am guessing by volume, but good to know for sure. I just finished 3rd coat and about to sand, this time I may wet sand, although it may be overkill, then go for thinner paint, if that makes sense. Seems to be better to wait 2 days to assure hard coats, instead of 24 hours, humidity and temp considered.   The reference piece link above is close to what I did, using seal coat of plain epoxy, to seal pin holes, but was not perfect, and now note some things I should have seen and fixed. Author is right on course with advice about cabo...forget it, save glue...I ended up sanding off and use thick epoxy for verticals, at least for me.   Next time, it will be perfect, but for now, time to sail. Will add pics in morning.   Thanks for great stuff.   FWIW...Using topside Mega Gloss paint as boat is dry-sailed, stuff is quite nice, and the choice was by color, not brand. Oil base acrylic, uses naphtha to thin, a bit messy, but right color, good coverage, lower cost. Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2011

BobBill

Super Anarchist

4,611 103 SE Minnesota.

tommays said: Use the Redtree foam roller thin to the max and plan on more coats the brush should only pop the air bubbles Click to expand...

Beautious, almost a crime to wet it.   You sand between all coats? Wet or dry? Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2011 G

gkny

Anarchist

503 127 One bit of advice that I saw somewhere was to use two good brushes when you tip and roll. I've done some tip and roll and a really dry brush does a much better job of tipping off. If you have two brushes, you can keep one brush in thinner and then spin it dry. When the 2nd brush is getting too wet then switch brushes. I have not tried this advice but it made sense to me.

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