The Complete Guide To Hand-Tied Hair Extensions - Byrdie

There is no better way to add length and fullness to your hair than to get hair extensions. The best par. But before you go out and buy a bundle of hair, allow us to educate you about the one of the newest installation methods—hand-tied extensions.

We asked the experts about the basics of hand-tied hair extensions, how to install and care for them, and how they differ from tape-in extensions. Keep reading for their advice, below.

Meet the Experts

• Nicolette Rauchut is a senior hairstylist and extension specialist at Lrn Beauty in New York City.
• Ashley Gomila is a celebrity hair stylist.
• Brittany Johnson is a licensed cosmetologist and the senior content manager for Mayvenn Hair.

What Are Hand-Tied Extensions?

"Hand-tied extensions are sewn in wefts. Most techniques are installed by first applying a beaded row which the weft will be sewn in with a nylon thread," says Rauchut. The detailed process is ideal for those looking to add more volume and length that looks natural without putting too much tension on the scalp or hair.

The Benefits

According to Rauchut, there are several reasons why a client may choose hand-tied over other extension methods.

• Creates a bolder approach to the final look.
• No adhesive, which means faster removal time.
• Can go from a short length to super long hair with it still looking natural.
• You can still do deep conditioning treatments without the attachment sight sliding like a keratin bond would or tape in.

Hand-Tied vs. Tape-Ins

"The difference [in hand-tied hair extensions] is that the stylist attaches wefts onto the row of beads by hand-tying the wefts in with cotton or nylon thread," Johnson explains, whereas tape-ins use medical grade tape. "The number of rows and wefts used depends on the client's hair density, length, and overall desired end result. They differ from tape-ins because tape-ins use a medical-grade tape adhesive to 'sandwich' pieces of a client's natural hair in between two pieces of extensions. The two tape tabs attach and create the section of the tape-in, and is repeated throughout the head."

Like hand-tied extensions, the number of tape-in packs used will vary depending on the client's hair density and the client's hair goals. Aside from the technical differences, the two processes differ in time. Ultimately, how much time you spend in the chair will depend on your hair's unique qualities, but you can generally expect a hand-tied session to take between two and two-and-a-half hours, while tape-in appointments can last up to an hour and a half.

How Much Are Hand-Tied Extensions?

According to Rauchut, "hand-tied extensions can range from $500 to $2000 and up, depending on the desired look and your salon's location. This is based on the amount of hair needed for fullness, density and/or length."

Generally, you'll need between four to eight wefts if your objective is volume, and those with finer hair types can expect to use up to 10 wefts (meaning you'll likely need to purchase two packs of hair). Upkeep is typically less of an investment over time, starting at $100 to push up (aka tighten) one row, and the price increases depending on the number of rows that need adjusting.

As for the cost of hair, you have options. Glam Seamless offers eight individual wefted 20-inch hand-tied weft bundles, starting at $399. Dallas-based Lustro Hair also offers hand-tied bundles in a variety of lengths, starting at $145. If you're unsure about what hair to invest in, talk with your stylist. They can offer guidance and even provide the hair for your appointment.

How Are Hand-Tied Extensions Installed?

To start, shampoo the hair thoroughly and do not use any conditioner. Rauchut emphasizes that It's important to have clean, dry hair that is not conditioned to have a secure attachment.

"Next, divide the hair into sections, creating horizontal partings from the nape of the neck upward. The number of sections depends on the desired coverage and the amount of hair being added," she says. "Then, you're going to create a track where a small section of the natural hair is sectioned off horizontally, close to the scalp. This section will serve as the base where the hand-tied weft will be attached."

Once hair has been sectioned, it's time to place the hand-tied weft (a narrow strip of hair that has been pre-sewn by hand). Rauchut says that it's important to choose a weft that matches your natural hair color and texture, as the weft is placed under the sectioned hair, aligning it with the parting, and then it is sewn onto the natural hair using a needle and thread.

"The weft is sewn onto the natural hair using a looping and knotting technique. A needle and thread are then used to create a secure stitch, looping through the weft and the folded natural hair," she says of the process, which is repeated along the entire length of the weft.

Gomila prefers the applying extensions with a bonding agent or bead as it is less damaging than other techniques. "This technique is a lot safer than sew in or gluing and actually lasts a lot longer with an average of four to six months of wear," she says.

Once all hand weft extensions are attached, the hair is combed through to ensure that the natural hair and extensions are blended seamlessly. You can then cut and style the extensions as desired.

Do Hand-Tied Extensions Work Well With All Hair Types?

Johnson recommends hand-tied hair extensions for people with straight to wavy hair textures because the beads will lay flatter against the scalp, and detangling can be done closer to the root, just below the beads. Tape-ins also work well with straight to wavy hair types and offer natural-looking results. For curlier hair textures, she recommends sewn-in wefts.

"Specifically, I think they are great for someone who wants a big impact without having to sit for long appointments. Because you can custom fit a hand tied it makes it a good option for most clients whether they want a simple volumizing appointment or a full lengthening and volumizing appointment," says Rauchut.

Most extension companies now are well-versed in hair textures and patterns, says Rauchut, meaning those with curly, wavy, straight, or an in-between texture can achieve hair goals without having the sacrifice styling their hair a certain way.

How Long Do Hand Tied Extensions Last?

The longevity of your style will depend on how you care for your hair post-appointment. "Generally, hand-tied extensions can last for about six to nine weeks before needing to be redone," says Johnson. But, she also says the time between appointments depends on how fast your hair grows and if you're taking the time to care for your hair properly. "The hair extensions themselves should last longer if they are being properly cared for, and can generally be reused for about six to eight months."

Rauchut says that clients can expect extensions to last for six to eight weeks. "After that time, you will move up the weft. Typically you can reuse the hair two to three times depending on how you maintain the hair and the quality stays," she says,

You'll also want to ensure that you are scheduling proper maintenance appointments to reduce tension on the scalp. "Having them moved up and removed in the right time frame will help make sure that there's not too much tension on your hair as they grow out," says Johnson.

How Can I Care for my Extensions?

Aside from scheduling maintenance appointments, Johnson encourages properly detangling, cleansing, and moisturizing your own hair even while wearing hand-tied hair extensions. Rauchut recommends detangling hair twice a day to avoid tangles and knots, as "aggressive brushing can cause tension on the root."

"The main key to caring for your hand-tied extensions is to carefully brush them out daily and nightly," says Gomila, taking care not to aggressively brush your hair as it can cause tension at the root. "It's important to treat the ends with a leave-in conditioner before daily combing. I highly recommend using Living Proof Restore Perfecting Spray for detangling on wet hair before combing.

"Make sure to sleep with your hair pulled back or in a bonnet to reduce friction on the attachment site or end tangling. Treat it like it's your hair try not to over style or over shampoo," she adds.

Thinking of letting your hair air dry? Don't. Rauchut says that leaving hair sopping wet to air dry is a no-no. Instead, she says to gently dry the attachment site and roots with a dryer on low heat and low speed until it feels 80-90 percent dry. "This can alleviate any issues with a bond, tape, or weft falling apart prematurely due to water saturation," she says,

When you're on the hunt for products to keep your extensions looking their best, many of the tried-and-true hair "dos" apply, especially when it comes to your shampoo and conditioner: Stay away from sulfates, and when heat styling, Gomila says to apply a heat protectant to prevent damaging your hair and causing split ends on your extensions (yes, extensions can develop split ends, too).