The Professional Framer's Secret For Cutting A Double Mat
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Logan's Complete Guide to Picture Framing The Professional Framer's Secret for Cutting a Double Mat Home » Learning Center » Complete Guide to Picture Framing » The Professional Framer's Secret for Cutting a Double Mat Guide Navigation Introduction to Picture Framing & Matting - The Purpose of Matting
- Do it Yourself Framing
- Introduction to Picture Framing
- Reading Artwork
- Selecting a Color
- Tips on Choosing Colors in Matting
- Matboard Types
- Understanding Differences in Mat Boards
- Frame Types
- What is Conservation & Archival Framing
- Mat Styles
- Determine Window Size
- Designing Mats for Standard Size Frames
- Designing with Standard Sizes
- Mat Size and Proportion
- Mat Proportion
- Should Mat Bottom be Wider?
- Trends in Matting Design
- Glazing Your Artwork
- Glazing
- Glass or Plexiglass?
- Measuring and Sizing Picture Frame Mats
- Border Finder
- Measuring for Mats
- How to Calculate Border Size
- Standard Frame Sizes
- How To: Standard frame sizes
- Basic measuring for Picture Framing
- How Much Can You Save by Doing Your Own Picture Framing Yourself?
- Why is Picture Framing so Expensive?
- How Much Should Picture Framing Cost?
- How to Hold Down Cost of Picture Framing
- Measuring for Frame Making
- Cutting Picture Frame Moulding
- Sanding Picture Frame Moudling
- Joining with Studio Joiner F300-1
- Joining with Pro joiner F300-1
- How to Get Perfect Corner Joints
- Tips for Joining Using Pro Joiner
- Types of Wood Used in DIY Framing
- Can You Use Hardwood Nail on Soft Wood?
- Making the Most of a 32 x 40 Sheet
- Trimming Mat Board to Size
- Trimming Mat Board to Size with Straight Edge
- Trimming Mat Board to Size with Compact
- Trimming Mat Board to Size with Simplex
- Mat Cutting
- Cutting Single Mat Using a Straight Edge
- Cutting a Single Mat With a Simplex-Basics
- Cutting a single mat with a simplex-detailed
- Cutting a double mat
- Cutting a double mat- detailed professional version
- The professional framers secret for cutting a double mat
- How to measure and cut a double mat,
- Cutting a stepped corner mat – basics
- Cutting stepped corner mats – detailed
- Offset (stepped) corner mat
- Cutting an inlay mat
- Cutting a v groove mat with the trim –and-tape method
- Cutting a v groove with the tape – and –flip method
- Cutting a v groove using a logan V groover (discontinued)
- Adding decorative ink lines to your mats
- How to cut a multiple opening mat
- Multiple opening mat examples
- Cutting oval and circle mats
- Cutting a double oval mat
- Cutting a double inlay mat
- Cutting a roman mat
- Cutting an arch mat
- Cutting a notched oval mat
- Cutting an oval or circle mat
- Proper cutting technique model 201
- Understanding the differences between mat cutters
- The crucial importance of a squaring arm in mat cutting
- Sorting out the differences in the new simplex mat cutters
- Slip sheets
- The importance of using a slip sheet when cutting
- The importance of using a backing sheet
- Why am I getting a ragged cut?
- How to avoid rough or ragged edges when cutting mats
- Dealing with inconsistencies in the bevel edges
- Adjusting your mat cutter for proper blade depth
- The importance of proper blade depth
- Why am I getting a hook in the corners or curve in the bevel cut?
- How come I don't cut all the way through the mat board?
- How to conquer overcuts and undercuts?
- Dealing with overcuts and undercuts
- Why am I getting overcuts in the corners?
- Why are my mats not coming out square?
- Why is my bevel cut going the wrong way?
- How to cut left handed
- How to cut a 40" sheet of mat board on the 32" compact mat cutter
- Is using production stops the fool proof way to get perfect mats?
- Tips for working with production stops on your mat cutter
- Basic mat cutter maintenance
- Mounting your artwork
- Grappling with conservation and archival mounting concerns
- Supporting Artwork
- Hinge mounting T, V and S methods
- A simple method to a T-hinge mount
- Trapping methods
- Permanent mounting
- Wet mounting
- Pressure sensitive adhesive mounting
- How to mount artwork using positionable mounting adhesive (PMA)
- Spray adhesives
- Mounting paper art
- Hanging paper art
- How to mount a watercolor
- Mounting Pastels or Charcoal drawings
- Mounting stretched canvas
- How to mount and frame a canvas board
- Mounting Needle art
- Framing needlework and fabric
- Shadow box mat
- Creating shadow box effect
- Mounting 3D objects
- Glazing your artwork
- Hard and Fast: Glass vs Plexiglass, Which is better?
- Essential tools for glazing when picture framing
- Reducing glass to size
- Cleaning and cutting glass
- Tips for cleaning glass when picture framing
- Fitting Basics
- Options for securing the contents in a picture frame
- Loading and securing your framing components
- Fitting wood frames
- Fitting metal frames
- Fitting art on canvas
- How to hold stretched canvas in a picture frame
- Installing a dust cover
- Installing hanging hardware
- Installing hanging wire and bumper pads
Many people find cutting a double mat a frustrating mystery. It seems simple and straightforward but it rarely turns out right unless you know the secret for cutting it correctly.
A double mat is not what many people think it is. A double mat never involves cutting through two thicknesses of mat board. Rather a double mat is just two single mats stacked together, two single mats with two different size windows stacked together so the window of the under-mat appears as a band of color around the inside of the window of the over-mat.
Once the framer grasps what a double mat actually is, the proper way to cut it seems clear. Just take two mats of the same overall size and cut a window in one slightly smaller than the window in the other, and then tape them together.
Actually, it is possible to cut a double mat this way, but the framer nearly always runs into difficulties getting the perimeter edges of the two mats to align while he's getting the band of color to line up in the window.
These alignment difficulties stem from the fact that the original 32"x40" sheet of mat board may not have been square when purchased. Squareness in this instance doesn't refer to the shape of the mat board but to whether it was cut at precise right angles. In fact most mat board is not perfectly square when you buy it.
This slight discrepancy in the squareness, however, doesn't matter much when cutting a single mat. It only becomes an issue when cutting a double mat, because a double mat requires two full size sheets, one for each color, two full size sheets that may be slightly out of square, but not relative to each other.
So when the framer cuts a window in one slightly smaller than the other and tries to tape them together he notices that they are not perfectly aligned along the perimeter edges. He jostles them around until the perimeter edges line up, and then he notices that the band of color in the window is out of alignment.
The solution is simple. Stop trying to line up the perimeter edges. It's not necessary. By making the overall size of the under-mat slightly smaller than the overall size of the over-mat you eliminate the need to align the perimeter edges. Now all you have to do is line up the band of color in the window and you've got it.
Grasping this, you may now take the approach of cutting two different size windows in two different colored mats of the same overall size, and then trimming the edges of the under-mat and taping the two mats together. This can work, but it's not nearly as fast and efficient and as the professional method for cutting a double mat, the secret that eludes many novice framers. Here it is:
Start by trimming the under-mat smaller overall. For example, if your frame size is 16"x20", trim the overall size of the under-mat to 151/2"x191/2", and leave the over-mat at 16"x20".
Next cut the window in the over-mat. Then – and here's the most startling thing about the technique – tape the under-mat to the back of the over-mat before you cut the window in it.
The logic of this is clear when you realize that when you cut the over-mat, as you did a moment ago, you used the perimeter edge of the over-mat against the mat guide of the mat cutter as you marked and cut it. Now, as you cut the under-mat, because you have trimmed it smaller overall and taped it to the back of the over-mat, you will still have the perimeter edge of the over-mat against the mat guide of the mat cutter as you mark and cut it. Consequently, whatever you cut it under-mat must come out perfectly aligned with what you cut in the over-mat.
With this technique you get perfect alignment every time. What's more, when you finish cutting you are finished; the two mats are already taped together; you don't have to fuss around with alignment as you attempt to tape the two mats together.
Remember to replace the drop-out piece back in the window of the over-mat before taping the under-mat to it. You will need the stability through the center of the over-mat as you cut the under-mat. But when you are finished cutting, the double drop-out piece will fall out and you will be finished.
This article reveals the logic and approach for cutting a double mat by the professional method. In the next article I will explain how to measure for the double mat and guide you step-by-step through the process of cutting it.
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