The Secret Crochet Circle Formula (and How To Tweak It)

Hi folks 🙂

Do you love making circles like me?  It’s fun and easy once you know the secret formula.

The Formula for a flat circle

So let’s look at a circle made with the standard formula with a starting round of 12 stitches (tr UK terms, dc US terms):

Round 1: 12 sts

Round 2: 2 sts worked into each st of Round 1 {24 sts}

Round 3: 2 sts worked into the first st, 1 st worked into the next st, repeated all the way around. {36 sts}

Round 4: 2 sts worked into the first st, 1 st worked into the next 2 sts, repeated all the way around. {48 sts}

Round 5: 2 sts worked into the first st, 1 st worked into the next 3 sts, repeated all the way around. {60 sts}

Round 6: 2 sts worked into the first st, 1 st worked into the next 4 sts, repeated all the way around. {72 sts}

And so on, increasing the “into the next ‘X’ number of sts” by 1 each round. You can alter the number of stitches in the first round. In this case, that’s 12 stitches are added each round.  If you begin with 6, your stitch count will increase by 6 each round.  If you begin with 8 sts, then you’ll increase by 8 each round and so on.

When hooking up a circle, this is how I do it mentally, from Round 3. I count the stitches of each round repeatedly, knowing that st numbers 1 & 2 are worked into the same stitch.  In my head, it kinda looks like this (the numbers in brackets are worked into the same st):

Round 1: 12 sts

Round 2: (2 sts) in each st {24 sts}

Round 3: (1, 2), 3, (1, 2), 3 etc

Round 4: (1, 2), 3, 4, (1, 2), 3, 4, etc

Round 5: (1, 2), 3, 4, 5 (1, 2), 3, 4, 5 etc

That’s all fine if you’re using double crochet (US)/treble crochet (UK), as in the rainbow above, but if you’re using single crochet (US)/double crochet (UK), once you get into it, you start to get points where you are working the 2 sts into the same stitch each time and a whorl pattern appears in the circle. When making circles with this small stitch, you usually begin with 6 and increase by 6 stitches each round.

Round 1: 6 sts

Round 2: (2 sts) in each st {12 sts}

Round 3: (1, 2), 3, (1, 2), 3 etc {18 sts}

Round 4: (1, 2), 3, 4, (1, 2), 3, 4, etc {24 sts}

Round 5: (1, 2), 3, 4, 5 (1, 2), 3, 4, 5 etc {30 sts}

Not really a circle is it?

How to make a real circle

It is possible to make a true circle though. All you need to do is change the spot the 2 sts are worked into the one stitch. Using the same formula as above, here’s what I changed to avoid those pointy bits. I’m going to go all the way up to Round 10 so you can see the changes I make each time.

The first 4 rounds are the same.

Round 5: 1, 2, (3, 4), 5, 1, 2, (3, 4), 5, 1, 2, (3, 4), 5 etc

Round 6: (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, etc

Round 7: 1, 2, (3, 4), 5, 6, 7, 1, 2, (3, 4), 5, 6, 7, etc

Round 8: (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, etc

Round 9: 1, 2, 3, 4, (5, 6), 7, 8, 9, 1, 2, 3, 4, (5, 6), 7, 8, 9, etc

Round 10: (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, etc

Basically, each odd round, I changed where the 2 stitches are worked into the one stitch to somewhere in the middle of the repeat and the even rounds are the same as before. It doesn’t have to be in the middle each time, just in a different spot to the even rounds. Round 7 could just as easily have worked with (4, 5) or (5, 6).

It’s makes a big difference I’m sure you can see.

Other things to note

When working with sc/dc, it’s more usual to work in a spiral, not joining each round with a slip stitch.

You can use a scrap of yarn as a stitch marker, and don’t move it each round. It can be enough to keep track of where you are up to.

But If you really want to keep track, using a stitch marker is the way to go. Pop it in the first stitch of each round as soon as you make it.

How to fix your circle when it isn’t flat

Depending on your desired end result, you can be a little flexible and work with how it feels rather than the strict formula.

To be honest, as you get bigger, it doesn’t matter much if you don’t stick to the formula exactly. I don’t stress about it too much. If you begin your next round a repeat too early or late, it’s only a 1 stitch difference in the round. It’s no biggy, unless you need a certain number of sts for a specific pattern, such as a tapestry crochet bag base where you may need a specific number.

Also, depending on your crochet style and the yarn and hook combo you are using, you may find after a while you get ruffling or cupping. I go with it by dealing with these problems as I notice them, rather than ripping out rows.

If you notice it ruffling, it means you have too many stitches.

It’s easily fixed if you modify your pattern as soon as you notice. Just do a round or 2 without increases until it is flat again, then continue your increases from where you were up to.

On the other hand, if it is cupping, you don’t have enough stitches and need to increase more.

Repeat the last few rounds of increases – eg if you were up to Round 6, do (1, 2), 3, 4, 5, 6, (1,2), 3, 4, 5, 6 a couple of times and see if it flattens out, then continue with your increases.

Creating these lovely flat crochet circles has given me a great deal of inspiration over time, have a look at some of the ways I’ve used them in my designs…

I used these circles as the basis for my  Crochet Bags tutorial, which is an adaptable recipe more than a pattern.

If you love starting projects with a crochet circle, you might like Dotty Spotty with its 5 sizes of circles going square, and it comes with video support.

For the more advanced crocheters try Corners and Curves with 45 granny squares that all begin with circles.

For more crochet fun, sign up for my weekly newsy newsletter or join me in Granny Square Circle.

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