What To Seal A Monster Mud Project With? - Halloween Forum

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I'm ready to seal my monster mud reaper, and I'm stumped on what to use to waterproof him. Thompsons water seal has a wood, brick, concrete sealer, but I don't know it that would just absorb. I found a quart of shellac at Menards for about $7, it's more of a gel application than a liquid. Just wondering what everyone else uses. #1 · Aug 27, 2008 I'm ready to seal my monster mud reaper, and I'm stumped on what to use to waterproof him. Thompsons water seal has a wood, brick, concrete sealer, but I don't know it that would just absorb. I found a quart of shellac at Menards for about $7, it's more of a gel application than a liquid. Just wondering what everyone else uses. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Aug 28, 2008 How about Dry-loc? I heard that is good. #3 · Aug 28, 2008 I've never used it but, plan on it this winter. I checked the sites on google after doing a check and most said polyurethane. A water based one that dries fast and has very low odor compared to the oil based. I'm just quoting what it says at Terror Syndicate. Regards #4 · Aug 28, 2008 I have several MM props and have never sealed any of them with anything....OK, maybe I sealed one, but the rest are seal-less! I painted them all with exterior grade paints and they stay out about 6 weeks a year with no ill affects. #5 · Aug 28, 2008 I usually polyurthene mine. But I am considering drylock now. I have always painted the prop and then left with no choice than to do clear polyurthene. Drylock, I THINK, is white...so would have to be done, before finish painting, I THINK> ( a whole lot of I thinks, and not much knowing for 'Sure" LOL. But I am in the middle of a mud prop too...and decided that I was going to drylock before actually painting my piece. Then maybe poly coat it too. I live in Florida... and more and more I worry about damp or wetness. Haven't had any mud props go bad. ( usually cover them with big plastic bags or something if a big storm comes up) otherwise light rain hasn't been much of a problem. ok...long winded...but there is my 2 cents. LOL. #6 · Aug 28, 2008 You can get Dry-Lok in either white or gray. I used gray on mine and then went back and just applied weathering effects with a dark wash. This will be the first year it has been set out so will see how well it does

#7 · Aug 28, 2008 Seal it up Whatever seal you use consider the gloss. whatever gloss you use I suggest using a paint on one because sprays can get costly on a big project. I *prefer* sprays because I am comfortable using them but don't mind spending a bit more...*shrug*. In the heat a spray dries pretty quick. Some props looks really nice if you do a semi gloss on them (like for a bloody section or polished skull). I know thompsons water seal is a really nice effect. I painted some river rocks I have as ornamental landscape in my yard (during non haunt season) and loved the look so much I did it on some paper mache skulls I did. Turned out nice. I never used drylock on a statue but have done it on a fountain (to seal a clay bowl and papermache sculpt). I think if you were to do this you should also seal whatver paint you put on top of it. It should help in keeping the paints fresh looking. The extra layer on top of the paint also might help with wear over time. #8 · Aug 28, 2008 Where can you get drylock from? Do you get it at Lowes or at craft stores...? #9 · Aug 28, 2008 Yes at lowes kinda pricey if ya ask me at 22 bucks a gallon. #10 · Aug 28, 2008 I got mine at Home Depot. But, brace yourself for the price, $22 a gallon. I am using it for the first time on my tombstones. Because it is white (I think you can tint it though) I am painting it on before I paint my weather effects. But I'll be using exterior paint so the colors should still be fine. I've heard it also comes in gray but my Home Depot didn't have that. The bonus? Dry-loc has sand particles in it so it is giving my tombstones a terrific stone texture. I didn't even expect that. It's flat (no gloss) too. So far, I'm liking it. Why I think dry-loc is so cool is because it is designed to waterproof masonry (basement walls) so it literally sucks itself into the project to create its seal. #11 · Aug 28, 2008 Last year in the paint section at Big Lots, I saw something called Dry Block that cost $10 a gallon. It was white. It acted like it was comparable. That is all I know about it. Someone might want to try it out and let everyone know if it works as well. #12 · Aug 28, 2008 I'm going a route a little off center (surprise, I know) this year, and doing the coloring with an oil based stain instead of painting. (also mixing sand into the monster mud to get a stone-like finish, among other oddities). I'll be sealing them with Thompsons water seal. Will let you all know how they weather. #13 · Aug 28, 2008 This is what I saw that I thought might work good. It seals wood, brick and concrete...and it's quite a bit cheaper. Thompson's® WaterSeal® Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer - ThompsonsWaterSeal.com $22 a gallon seems rather steep to me, but I'll have to see #14 · Aug 29, 2008 I have had my first MM prop for 6 years and just used exterior grade paint when mixing with the mud. He has stood up pretty good with out it being sealed. My newer props I have use cheapo porch paint and primer sealer from krylon. It is made for use on Wood, Metal, Wicker, Wrought Iron, Glass, Craft Foam, Plaster, Ceramic, Fabric, Paper, Paper Mache.( Pretty much covers anything I might use to build a prop!) Comes in gray and white, water beads of of it pretty well. Does anyone else mix their sealer with their mud? Insert Quotes Post Reply

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