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Why does Craft Beer taste so bad?
Aunty Donna enjoying a lovely couple of Craft Bevvies with the Boys (auntydonna.com)

Why won't people admit that craft beer tastes bad? This is one of life's ubiquitous questions for me, along with "Why are the Black Caps so sinusoidal?" or "How do the clothing shops on Ponsonby Road make any money?"

Watching neo-hipsters and bankers alike wince as they chew their way through a 7.8% room temperature stout on a sweltering summer afternoon, I can't help but think, "Mate, have you tried Heineken?"

The biggest growing market segment for Craft Beer in New Zealand is in the 4.5 - 5% segment, termed the 'Gateway Styles'. It’s telling a considerable segment of production is dedicated to easing consumers into the experience, the sentiment similar to tattooed people saying to the uninitiated "oh it absolutely doesn't hurt, but maybe start with a small one" *winks*.

Yet, somehow the industry is booming, people are trading in their Peronis and Carlsbergs for Sour Mash and Hops Bombs. On K' Road you are now more likely to see someone drinking a can of Peach & Lemon Meringue Pale Ale than a Lion Red.

How has this happened?

I contend that it is because by and large, the craft beer industry, whilst not knowing how to craft a beer that you can drink two of consecutively without gagging - know how to craft a brand. Even the smallest brewery has a defined and consistent brand message and aesthetic, manifesting as crisp packaging, eye-catching content and contemporary, effective (mobile-friendly!) websites.

The only time I have drunk a Garage Project beer was when my groomsmen taped two to my hands on my Stag-do as punishment, but I could spend a whole day browsing their uber-slick website. It is so good that whilst I was retrieving the hyperlink for the above, I tried to buy their Shinrin Yoku Print… It was sold out. I’ll come back.

The Hallertau destination-centered brand experience is superb. The Bier Gardens are cool and groovy, top-notch fit-outs, landscaped to perfection (by fellow Textile Lofts compatriot Jared Lockhart), I just have to make sure I don't order any of the beer that comes in the sexy numbered bottles.

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Much like David and Goliath, for these smaller businesses to compete with the incumbent mega-brewers, they have to be savvy. They rely on leverage of their brand capital. The best way to do that is with a well honed aesthetic, genuine community engagement and a powerful web assets.

So the next time you walk into a bar after a long, hot day, and at the behest of the moustached bartender, order a pint of molasses-cum-potpourri for $14.50, maybe have a think to yourself, "my product isn't this bad, imagine what would happen if I put a bit more work into my brand and website."

-JW

PS: Sorry Cory...

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Share 11 Comments Stuart Whitney, graphic Stuart Whitney 5y
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This writer is trying to be controversial for the sake of it. Utter rubbish

Like Reply 1 Reaction Leigh Featherstone, graphic Leigh Featherstone 5y
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 Like your writing Justin Wannenburg. I  do hate the term craft beer but IMHO - #1 that it tastes bad is a sweeping generalisation but  a good headline #2 the prime reason that craft beer does so well is because some mainstream beers in NZ can be bland and boring.  It's not about the ABV either. NZ Heneiken is a totally different drink to the Dutch original. In fact most north european countries have good mainstream industrial beers that sell huge volumes on the back of strong and engaging brands. Where I agree though is on pricing - if being charged wine prices for beer just say no! And don't get me started on what is and what is not a pint...

Like Reply 3 Reactions 4 Reactions Matt Loughlin, graphic Matt Loughlin 5y
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Stephen Skegg did you co-write this?

Like Reply 3 Reactions 4 Reactions Simon Millar, graphic Simon Millar 5y
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Sweeping generalizations from a narrow experiential range, heartfelt eloquence and creative exaggeration aside, most people love craft beer, they just don't know it yet. 

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