2006 V50 Non-Turbo Won't Start. Bad Alternator? Or? - SwedeSpeed

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teatimecrumpet T Hi, Our 2006 V50 non-turbo automatic won't start. So Yesterday the car was making a whirring/electronic kind of noise and you could hear it at low speeds and got worse as you accelerate. I had thought it was a PCV (other thread) but someone thought it sounded more like an alternator. Well, after driving around the block twice this morning testing by taking out the dipstick (which I thought made it sound better) I went to do yard work. 5 hours later I went to go start the car to go to my mom's and it won't start. Nothing the key just locked in the car and wouldn't turn back to take out. My dad came to jump me but it still wouldn't start. I didn't get anything except the light next to the stick that lights up by the "P" for parking. His car was running when I connected it all up. Went to dinner came back home and tried again. This time by having his car off connecting the cars and then trying again. What I get is dash lights It I can control the overhead cabin lights, the vent lights come on if I press the climate controls. I cannot shut the sunroof (which I opened to dry out the car!...because of leaking sunroof), I cannot control the locks. The dash has a weird message that says something is wrong with the airbag it said "malfunction" I believe. And then that message disappears and all I get is the red triangle around the "!" And there is a buzzing in the engine bay. Once we disconnect the two cars everything shuts down immediately. Any help appreciated! My brother-in-law says it should start up with a bad alternator? #1 · Apr 22, 2018 (Edited) Hi, Our 2006 V50 non-turbo automatic won't start. So Yesterday the car was making a whirring/electronic kind of noise and you could hear it at low speeds and got worse as you accelerate. I had thought it was a PCV (other thread) but someone thought it sounded more like an alternator. Well, after driving around the block twice this morning testing by taking out the dipstick (which I thought made it sound better) I went to do yard work. 5 hours later I went to go start the car to go to my mom's and it won't start. Nothing the key just locked in the car and wouldn't turn back to take out. My dad came to jump me but it still wouldn't start. I didn't get anything except the light next to the stick that lights up by the "P" for parking. His car was running when I connected it all up. Went to dinner came back home and tried again. This time by having his car off connecting the cars and then trying again. What I get is dash lights It I can control the overhead cabin lights, the vent lights come on if I press the climate controls. I cannot shut the sunroof (which I opened to dry out the car!...because of leaking sunroof), I cannot control the locks. The dash has a weird message that says something is wrong with the airbag it said "malfunction" I believe. And then that message disappears and all I get is the red triangle around the "!" And there is a buzzing in the engine bay. Once we disconnect the two cars everything shuts down immediately. Any help appreciated! My brother-in-law says it should start up with a bad alternator? See less See more Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Apr 22, 2018 Battery is dead... hard to say if alternator is until that’s fixed. Proper jump start is to connect the cars and allow the dead car to charge for a few minutes before trying to start. If you did this and as soon as disconnected it goes black, the battery is totally hosed. If you have a desuflicating charger it’s worth a shot, otherwise just get a new one. Don’t go cheap, literally everything in these cars depends on solid power. Also make sure it has a warranty (2-3y) and give them your phone number or whatever because if it is the alternator then it will eat the new battery too. Check the alternator belt, you can see it from the top, if it’s still there and you continue to have power issues w/new battery replace the alternator and belts (alt and AC). They are ~100,000 mile consumables. If you are near 100k and haven’t done timing belt yet do that too! #3 · Apr 22, 2018

theshadow27 said: Battery is dead... hard to say if alternator is until that's fixed. Proper jump start is to connect the cars and allow the dead car to charge for a few minutes before trying to start. If you did this and as soon as disconnected it goes black, the battery is totally hosed. If you have a desuflicating charger it's worth a shot, otherwise just get a new one. Don't go cheap, literally everything in these cars depends on solid power. Also make sure it has a warranty (2-3y) and give them your phone number or whatever because if it is the alternator then it will eat the new battery too. Check the alternator belt, you can see it from the top, if it's still there and you continue to have power issues w/new battery replace the alternator and belts (alt and AC). They are ~100,000 mile consumables. If you are near 100k and haven't done timing belt yet do that too! Click to expand...

Hey Shadow, Thanks. So should the car start with a jump even if the alternator is dead? How about the SRS light...I did try to fix the lower middle grill because it looked pushed in and that's the last thing I did this morning when I left the car. The timing belt was on the list of to-dos but I was going to go have that done at my friend's when he had time. 0 Reply #4 · Apr 22, 2018 None of the lights/messages are reliable unless the electrical system is working, everything is computerized and the modules need power to boot up and communicate. Yes, it will start w/o it under jump. Assuming the battery is healthy the car can actually run for a while with no alternator belt, but the battery will run way down and might not charge back up. Do not put off the timing belt. Worst feeling in the world when you realize that the repairs will cost twice the KBB of the car. Even if you do it yourself it’s $1.5-2k by the time all said and done. #5 · Apr 22, 2018 So I went to check the fuses and the diagram on the back of the cover says I should have fuses at F30 for the ECM and F31 for the alternator...but there's nothing there not a burnt out fuse-nothing. There was a little dust there but I can't imagine it got so hot it fried the metal conductors of the fuse completely without seeing any signs of a burnt mess. Any problems with sticking fuses there? #6 · Apr 22, 2018 Alright, so I was able to get enough charge after jump for like 20-30 minutes. Once we disconnected and the car was still running it died after 2-3 minutes. Going to go get the battery checked now. The alternator was super hot and had a warning message about the steering wheel failed or something like that. If a new battery doesn't work I guess it's the alternator. #7 · Apr 22, 2018 Sounds like you had catastrophic battery failure. Hopefully your alternator didn't work itself to death & everything will be OK with the new battery. #8 · Apr 22, 2018 Thanks for sticking around with me! I threw in a new battery and it started right up with no codes but I'm still getting a whirring noise and shutoff the car. I guess I should try to test if the alternator is bad with a multimeter? 0 Reply #9 · Apr 22, 2018 That would be a start. At least you can see what the charging voltage is. It's odd, the alt light is usually very reliable, often coming on a few days before complete failure. #10 · Apr 22, 2018 Started the car and no charge to the battery it actually went down a little to like 12.5 on the multimeter (down from 12.6 no start). So no charge going through and I still hear the whirring noise. Pep boys quoted me $600 for the allternator. I figure doing the Timing belt at the same time as the alternator change will be better. Any idea what an Indie should charge me? Also I had to ghetto rig my A/C for it to work with bread clips should I just swap out the whole assembly while everything else is coming out? Water Pump too? 0 Reply #11 · Apr 22, 2018 If you are going to farm out the timing belt anyway then yes, it would be a good idea. Look to FCP Euro for an alternator. $600 is factory pricing. If this is your first timing belt I'd skip the water pump. Many opinions, but you will see a real lack of water pump problems if you read these forums. Save it for your next timing belt change. Absolutely do the serpentines & consider tensioners all around, not just the timing belt. Again FCP has some great kits. No need to get a new AC clutch though. Do the real fix, it's not hard, especially if you use the free loaner tools at Auto Zone. #12 · Apr 22, 2018 Yeah, the $600 was plus labor. I'm down to do it because it looks reasonably easy. But my GF (it's her car) doesn't want me to work on it all day and run into trouble. But we can't really spend a lot or it wouldn't be wise to anyway. But I guess $200 or $300 in labor if we buy the parts from FCP isn't that bad if we can trust the mechanic. 2 Replies #17 · Apr 23, 2018 I did not use the serpentine tool on my belts; I think I just used a torx-bit socket in a breaker bar. I don't remember now. I don't see the serpentine belts as a big area for maintenance, kind of a "while-you're-in-there" type thing. JMO. If you are doing the belts, you'll still have that wheel and liner off, so do a clutch re-shim while you are in there. I just threaded in the small metric bolts to push my clutch plate off, but there are better ways to pull it. #18 · Apr 23, 2018 Alternator itself is exactly the same as turbo. Only much easier to remove on the 2.4i! bbrages, just so you are aware. A serpentine breakage on these cars often results in bent valves. The little strings wind themselves around the crank pulley and jump the timing. Don't ask me how they get inside that guard but they do. This is why I like to just do the whole works at 100k and be done with it. Here's the serpentine thread with links to other helpful ones. Unfortunately, the pics are dead. #19 · Apr 23, 2018 Yeah saw the other thread. Dang! no pics! I'm hoping to add photo when I'm done. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions I just don't want to make any mistakes and not have a drivable car for another week. It looks as though the tensioner has these posts in the back which means that the tensioner can only go in one way, correct? Meaning I don't have to worry about positioning it wrong? And I read somewhere else that someone was able to just unbolt it off but others said you had to drop the engine a couple of inches? I"d rather not lower the engine in case I drop it too much but will if I have to since I"m already putting in a new engine mount too. Thanks a gazillion Show more replies 0 Reply #22 · Apr 24, 2018 I can't view the pictures at work but serpentine routing is the same whether T5 or 2.4I. You easily get 3-4" in up down movement just by remove the right side (passenger) mount which will need to come out for the timing belt replacement. You also need to raise and lower the engine to get at all the bolts if replacing the water pump. I just did all this about a month ago on mine. For the alternator tensioner I had to lower the engine as much as I felt comfortable and push as far to rear as possible to get at the upper bolt. A universal joint or two on your socket/extension setup would be ideal here but not required, I bought some afterward for the next time to make it easier. Only thing I didn't replace was the alternator and didn't shim the A/C while I was in there just because neither have been an issue yet. The belts were very difficult to re-install for the serpentine and the A/C belts the alternator belt was quite a bit easier to get into place though. There is a nice alternator video replacement on you tube, hardest part of it will likely be removing the stock air box if still equip'd, the engineers were genius or evil depending on your outlook as they designed the old trap and intake plenum clearances to just allow the alternator to be removed through that area (no way to get it out the bottom that I know of unless the A/C is removed/lowered as well which would/may require recharging) . I think the alternator may be able to removed without taking out the stock air box but I'd definitely pull it from its mounts and slide it to the side as far as possible to give you as much room to work as possible. #24 · Apr 25, 2018 (Edited) Does anyone know the correct torque for the tensioners and the alternator itself? Can anyone confirm the below? 42Nm for the tensioners 50Nm for the 3x alternator bolts (listed under general torque specs for "M10 bolts" which I'm guessing means 10mm bolts) According to this link: http://www.volvohowto.com/volvo-s40-v50-c30-c70-petrol-engine-torque-specs-2004-2013/ #25 · Apr 26, 2018 Those are reasonable torques. These are just regular bolts, torqued into the aluminum block. Standard tightness based on fastener diameter and material. Personally I wouldn't even bother with a torque wrench for these. But don't mangle anything. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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