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#1 · Nov 21, 2021 Hi, I have a 2006 xc90 v8. This is my 2nd time replacing the alternator in 1 year (happy to give advice and point to resources). This time, the wiring harness plug snapped off (generating many curses for my neighbors to hear). Does anyone here have a source for a replacement? I've found a couple of plugs online but do not think there is enough room between the engine and the firewall to be splicing in wires. I'm hoping to find a plug attatched to wires that I can splice in further up the line. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated. Seth Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Nov 21, 2021 Can you share the picture of the connector ? Are you talking about this BOSCH Molex connector?

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Buy Alternator Connector Fits Audi and VW 1J0973772: Alternators - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases www.amazon.com I have replaced this on my car , just the connector, you can de-pin & repin it. Although you have to loosen & disconnect the fuel lines for that. Actually any splicing on that loom will require you to take intake off and the fuel lines off. Holler if this is the same one you are talking about and I will share pictures on the this thread of the associated job. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk #3 · Nov 21, 2021 Close. Mine has smaller +-shaped connections, rather than the larger T-shaped connections. There is a tiny bit of green wire and a small push-button on the back (see pic). Yet there is still only ~1.5" clearance behind the engine (from above). I already have the fuel lines disconnected; not sure exactly what the intakes look like. Thanks for responding and for any advice. Cheers, Seth

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0 Reply #4 · Nov 21, 2021 If it is the V8 alternator then the field wire plug connector I shared should work. It's for the voltage regulator. Now I seem to remember there were two versions of the alternator one where the voltage regulator was independently controlled and the other (like yours with one lead blocked off) where the voltage regulator is directly controlled by ECM . So the connector which I shared should theoretically work because there is only type for all the alternators ( I just replaced min with a BOSCH alternator from FCP and it works flawlessly) Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk #5 · Nov 21, 2021 Oh shoot, looks likes I didn't take pictures while re-pinning the alternator connector . But I am attaching the picture with the upper intake manifold off. The problem I see with the connector you sent is that you seem to have broken off the wire.itself. The wire needs to de-pinned (one way if your connector is stuck on the alternator is to try to break the plastic casing of the connector with slow & patient blows ) Once de-pinned, there some gymnastics you need to do with the connector because there are these.little plastic tabs that need to released in order to get the Molex end seated into the new connector, then some finagling to lock the tabs back into place. What I did was disconnect the fuel lines on the rear valve cover, disconnect the ignition coil connectors and then unscrew the plastic capped bolts that hold the wiring harness in the rear in place , swing that around towards the front of the car and then work on de-pin/re-pin the connector.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk #6 · Nov 21, 2021 Ah, that helps. So I should be able to use the 2-pin version and just snip/ignore the unused wire slot, correct? Thanks much, Seth PS - your engine looks great! #17 · Nov 29, 2021

mayo0016! said: Ah, that helps. So I should be able to use the 2-pin version and just snip/ignore the unused wire slot, correct? Thanks much, Seth PS - your engine looks great! Click to expand...

Here, I found some of my pictures of the connector replacement. This is all I have for the harness. Remember to use Silicone Fuze tape (not electrical tape) for the insulation.

Alternator Connector & Rear Bank Cable

8 new items · Album by Sambuddha Sarkar

photos.app.goo.gl Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk 0 Reply #7 · Nov 21, 2021 Yeah absolutely, you should do that. Just remember to mark the terminal/ spot where the dummy plug goes into. ( I took pictures , like the one you have and referred to it multiple times haha) Thanks you! It was quite a lot of work but I am happy how it turned out, I have an S80 so space is super limited. I am jealous of the space you XC90 folks have lol. I am attaching a few more pictures for reference, hopefully it makes it a little but easier for you: 1. First 3 images, alternator marking , the plug location & don't forget to remove/cut out the plastic guard where the air duct fits over the alternator, that's where the voltage regulator is so cooling is essential 2. Connector , it completely came apart on mine, it was heat fatigued to hell. The pink tabs you see are the ones you need to disengage/engage while they are housed inside the connector, once you disengage the tabs the pink part will become loose and move around in the housing almost seems to come out but it won't. That's your cue the tabs are released and put the Molex connector in. Use a pair of those thin tweezers from cellphone repair/precision screwdriver set. 3.Molex connectors look like this (this is from the injector electrical connectors which I replaced, but the Molex design is the same for almost all low voltage sensors on these Volvos) 4. The mouse cursor points to the cable harness I was referring to , the one which you need to swing forward (pivoting near the transmission side of the engine) Good luck my friend!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk #8 · Nov 21, 2021 I suggest you cover those intake runners. They are magnets for foreign objects. You may not even know you've dropped something in there until it's too late... #9 · Nov 22, 2021 He has them covered, see photo of one of my motors from the other end- Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

#10 · Nov 22, 2021 Shisha. I'll have to try a mirror and such to see if I can remove that plastic guard while the alternator is on the engine. It looks like your alternator is a bit different than mine tho, so we'll see. I'm in MN, working outside, with winter fast approaching, so I am trying to at least button up all the bottom stuff and then work on the top stuff. I've replaced alternators on many different vehicles (including another Volvo) and its always been a relaxed 1 hour job. This one is f---ing ridiculous! It almost makes me wish it had the inline-5 rather than the v8...almost. #12 · Nov 24, 2021

mayo0016! said: Shisha. I'll have to try a mirror and such to see if I can remove that plastic guard while the alternator is on the engine. It looks like your alternator is a bit different than mine tho, so we'll see. I'm in MN, working outside, with winter fast approaching, so I am trying to at least button up all the bottom stuff and then work on the top stuff. I've replaced alternators on many different vehicles (including another Volvo) and its always been a relaxed 1 hour job. This one is f---ing ridiculous! It almost makes me wish it had the inline-5 rather than the v8...almost. Click to expand...

I don't think you can remove the plastic cover that way, that part is covered by the air duct.. so if you haven't taken that Plastic part before installation , you will have to remove the alternator & disassemble the air duct to be able to reach that. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk 0 Reply #11 · Nov 23, 2021 No idea on PN for connector replacement but I have a couple old alternators around for photos. Digital camera Camera accessory Machine Reflex camera Gas

Digital camera Camera accessory Machine Reflex camera Gas

#13 · Nov 24, 2021 Have you tried the auto wreckers? Or a couple of spade terminals? #14 · Nov 24, 2021 Referring to the photo in post #7, the normal cover below comes off and the ducted cover (with the tabs) gets installed. I'm not 100% following the need to open the cutout underneath. See V8 alternator stories- Power warning light | Page 2 | SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum for some background and photos. Watch Font Bicycle part Nickel Auto part

Watch Font Bicycle part Nickel Auto part

#15 · Nov 24, 2021 Ah, so the alternators from factory were different on 06 XC90 & 07 S80! OP was right that alternator part was different, so weird that FCP euro lists them the same (atleast the time I checked while buying mine, XC90 & S80 V8 had same cross-referenced P/N) These are the comparison pictures I took. The old one have the plastic cover absent just right where the duct sits.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk #16 · Nov 24, 2021 Interesting, the Bosch part accommodates both fitments (snorkel or no) without having to remove the installed back. Someone smart from Bosch inserted themselves in the rebuild line, thanks very much for posting the photos. Apologies to the OP for the digression. This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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