2010 Volvo XC70 D5 AWD - The Scruffy Barge - Page 15
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So I have tried the Jag disc in the Volvo and it works great. I didn't notice it doing a firmware update though? I was in the boot with the car on through so maybe it did. I still seem to have POI's which is weird...Edited to add - I did have the seat belt recall done last year at Volvo which involved it being plugged in - maybe they updated firmware then? Glad it worked for you. There's a screen in the settings which shows you which version you're running, you could compare it to mine. Maybe your car has run some more recent discs at some point? I think for a while Volvo used to post them out to owners for free - my car had the paperwork for that scheme in the glovebox but it looks like the original owner never bothered.Weird that your POIs still work but mine don't! Uh-oh, the barge is broken...
I was accelerating up a hill when it seemed to lose boost and threw a CEL. I limped to our destination and parked it up for four hours. On return, the CEL was still present but power was back to normal for the first couple of miles, it then sputtered back to it's boost-less state for the rest of the 30 miles journey home. It was an interesting challenge trying to build momentum ahead of hills.Back at home, I found two codes...ECM-P00BD00 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance - Air Flow Too High. General Failure Information. No sub type information.ECM-P029900 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition. General Failure Information. No sub type information.I was hoping that the lack of boost might be due to the computer cutting it once it entered some sort of limp mode, but with it briefly returning whilst the code was still active that seemed less likely.I cleaned the MAF last night, I'm not really expecting that to be the cause but it's a simple one to rule out.
I inspected the hoses to and from the intercooler, I can't see any obvious tears. There's another hose under the engine that I haven't been able to check yet. The intercooler itself looks dry and intact. I've nipped up a few jubilee clips on the intake, but nothing was obviously loose.From some Googling last night it would appear that the most likely culprit is the hose between the throttle body and the intercooler. I think mine might have been repaired before as it's got a couple of extra clips and a rigid section in the middle that doesn't look OE. I can't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I'll remove it for a better look when I get chance. The intake manifolds also seem somewhat prone to cracking, that's a bigger and more expensive job that I'd like to avoid. I might try and make a smoke machine to rule that one out. I also found one report of the same codes being thrown by a clogged fuel filter, I swapped the filter only 4000 miles ago, so that seems unlikely, but it would be an easy/cheap part to rule out.Hmm... Cleaning the MAF made no real difference, I had boost for a few minutes but it was soon gone and the underboost error returned. No MAF error this time.I removed the intercooler hoses to inspect them carefully, no holes.I removed the MAP sensor and it’s pretty cruddy, I’ve given it a good clean. Hopefully that’s the problem, although I’m not that confident and it’ll be tomorrow before I have time to reassemble and find out. From my time in a Volvo dealership, there is one of the intercooler pipes that goes soft and collapses under boost, causing poor performance.Unfortunately I can’t remember which one it is. Thanks - from my best Googling the soft hose issue maybe seems to be on earlier D5s.Having not really found anything particularly conclusive on English sites I think I’ve had some luck searching a Russian car blogging site for the part number of the turbo pressure control valve. There are numerous reports with identical symptoms/scenarios and the same underboost error code:https://www.drive2.ru/parts/volvo/31219138/B9bjwEA...Through the power of Google Translate, this all fits…
I’m not a big fan of throwing parts at something on the off-chance it fixes it, but feeling semi-confident I’ve ordered a replacement valve. Fingers crossed. How you getting on with diagnosis/fix? I'd have thought this is where VIDA would come in to it's own, perhaps by offering a test routine for the actuator systems? Good timing, it's fixed! With hindsight, I've made a bit of a hash of getting to this point. In my defense I'm running on the levels of sleep you'd expect with a new child around 
Let's backtrack and cover what I did after cleaning the MAF. I also removed the MAP sensor which looked pretty grubby...
I cleaned it with contact cleaner and some careful scraping with a toothpick.
That didn't help. I still had the same P0299 underboost error. The lack of any other errors made me think that I'd maybe cured the original MAF high volume + underboost issue by cleaning the MAF or tightening something. This led me to focus only on the underboost error and to identify the turbo control valve/solenoid as a likely suspect. I ordered a replacement, but due to the long bank holiday weekend, I had a bit of a wait. In the interim, I refitted the hoses from the intercooler that I'd removed to inspect and then extracted the existing TCV from the back of the engine bay. Access is relatively easy, in the scheme of things.
I bench-tested it by manually applying 12v to it and blowing air through it, it seemed to be actuating just fine and not leaking. I didn't do a vacuum test but I started to feel less confident in my diagnosis at this point.The replacement was a new-old-stock genuine part - 31219138. It's made by Pierberg, I later discovered that Car Parts in Motion sell the Pierberg branded part (70222100) for only a few pounds more than I paid. I'd probably have ordered that instead if I'd known sooner, this valve dates from 2015 but did appear to be unused.
The original vacuum line clamps are single-use. I ordered a set of spring clamps hoping to find a good fit. Typically, 10mm was a bit loose and 9mm a bit too tight to slide over the lumps made by the barbs of the hose outlets. I managed to make the 9mm clamps work with some fiddling.
As suspected the new TCV made no difference, as soon as the car passed the point at which the smaller turbo should kick in at around 2,000rpm the underboost code was thrown and the car went back into limp mode.The more I thought about it the more I realised that I should have spent longer troubleshooting the combination of codes that were originally thrown. I should have also read the codes using the Volvo VIDA software rather than the 3rd party VDASH software. I like VDASH as it's a bit quicker to use and it logs all connections and errors into an online portal, which makes it easy to review historic codes once cleared. However, the Volvo software is smart enough to recommend possible solutions based on the combination of multiple errors, this might have pointed me in the right direction sooner.I should have spent longer testing rather than guessing at solutions based on Googling codes, this is a side-effect of not having much free time over the bank holiday to tinker, but it's a good reminder to run through the basics before jumping to conclusions.What my Googling had taught me was that the handful of other people with the same code combination typically seemed to have a crack in the plastic intake manifold. I was back to chasing leaks in the intake system. I ideally needed to do a smoke test. I briefly contemplated buying a smoke tester, but I remembered seeing DIY smoke testers in use online and realised I had everything I needed to make my own lying around the house and garage. This led me to cobble together this contraption...
It's a glass jar with a cheap soldering iron glued into the lid. Inside there's enough cotton wool to touch the tip of the soldering iron soaked in baby oil to produce smoke. There's a car tyre valve glued into the lid to allow me to connect an air supply, and a length of tubing to allow the smoke out.I removed the airbox and MAF from the car and connected it to the intake using a glove and a hose clamp...
My helper wasn't too impressed by the loss of her oil...
It took a while to fill the intake with enough smoke to show anything, I could probably have done with a larger jar and wider tubing. I had to add some hot glue around the top of the soldering iron as it was leaking smoke through the body of the iron. But it eventually worked, after a while I spotted a leak between the inlet manifold and the throttle body...This is undoubtedly my fault. I will have removed that hose clamp whilst removing the EGR to get to the failed thermostat. I'm always a bit cautious when clamping around ageing plastic pipework so I suspect I just didn't tighten it enough. The clamp was now completely loose as the lower portion of the pipe had popped out, there's enough stuff in the way that I missed that during my previous visual inspections.
With that pushed back in and clamped down tight the boost is back! I took it for a relatively long test drive and happily never saw limp mode. It might be placebo but the power delivery possibly seems smoother, the clean MAF & MAP can't have hurt.I've spent £55 that I didn't need to spend on the TCV, but after finding plenty of reports of them failing and leaving the car in limp mode I'm happy to treat this as preventative maintenance, it would be an annoyingly simple little part to ruin a long trip. I feel like I've got off lightly as I was expecting to find a crack in the inlet manifold which is a pricey lump of plastic at over £400. Accelebrate said: There's something so ridiculous about this, I love it. Always wanted to smoke test my cars but never had the skill to come up with a rig thats good work! although annoying spending money on a few things at least it was simple in the end! I want to clean the Map sensor on our XC90 soon. alex98uk said: There's something so ridiculous about this, I love it. We'll have to try it on your car sometime. Hopefully, it's free of boost leaks now that you've secured the Symposer delete bung that you fired across Anglesey the-norseman said: Always wanted to smoke test my cars but never had the skill to come up with a rig thats good work! although annoying spending money on a few things at least it was simple in the end! I want to clean the Map sensor on our XC90 soon. Thanks - it looked very Heath Robinson but it did the job, so it's currently my favourite tool. Given how easy access is an occasional MAP clean can't hurt. Don't think the Map is in the same place on my engine, it seems to be hidden. To close the loop on something I mentioned in my original post - the intercooler inlet hose hadn't been repaired, on the twin-turbo D5s there's a vacuum line connected to it which accounts for the additional coupler and hose clamps. The line connects in around the back out of sight so it wasn't immediately obvious.I must have been having a weak-wristed day when I did the thermostat. There was a single-use hose clamp that I replaced with a jubilee clip on the EGR exhaust. It carries coolant away from the EGR system. Whilst running the engine trying to diagnose the boost leak I noticed that it was weeping enough coolant to drip onto the engine block and down onto the undertray. I nipped it up a bit and the leak has stopped. That does at least account for the occasional coolant use the car has had since the thermostat was swapped.I've been putting off replacing the gearbox oil as the car has a weeping driveshaft seal on the driver's side. I cleaned it off when I swapped the engine oil a few months ago to see how quickly it came back, the gearbox is quite wet again so I'll prioritise that next. I've ordered the seal and some oil. At this rate you're going to end up with a new car! In which case, can I have all the old bits to rebuild the original scruffy XC70 D5? Then I can embark on a renewal project of my own, and someone can have all the old bits to build their own XC70 D5... Perpetual Ship of Theseus!Or this, if you prefer... LunarOne said: At this rate you're going to end up with a new car! In which case, can I have all the old bits to rebuild the original scruffy XC70 D5? Then I can embark on a renewal project of my own, and someone can have all the old bits to build their own XC70 D5... Perpetual Ship of Theseus!This is relatively restrained by my usual standards. My brother christened my MX5 as The Mazda of Theseus a few years ago and I think it still had all its original body panels at the time! I put a couple of hundred motorway miles on the barge over the weekend, with no boost issues, confirmed by reading the codes when I got home. I did have a new code that I haven't seen before for a failed air quality sensor, I'll ignore that one for now.A very small oil seal arrived in the post. Looks like I ordered the seal for the output shaft inside the gearbox bell housing rather than the driveshaft seal. It was suspiciously cheap. The correct seal has hopefully been ordered. I might pre-emptively order some droplinks before tackling the driveshaft removal, the current set look to be in good shape but they rarely seem to come apart cleanly.We've got some longer trips coming up so I've fitted the roofbox for the first time. I didn't buy the box for this car, but to my eyes it suits it...
Failed air quality sensor is probably the most common error code on this version of Volvo. The three I've owned all had the same error code. You can't have a faultless car, so just keep that as the only error 
S100HP said: Failed air quality sensor is probably the most common error code on this version of Volvo. The three I've owned all had the same error code. You can't have a faultless car, so just keep that as the only error That's not in the spirit of this thread though Looks like it's a £50ish part, fitted by dismantling the glove box. I'll see if the error returns after clearing it. I revisited the new TCV that I'd installed. I wasn't happy with the cheap spring clips I'd purchased from Amazon, they had very little tension and could be easily opened by hand. I ordered some new 10mm clips made by Mikalor, who seem to be known for making decent-quality hose clamps.
They're much better, pliers very much required and they've clamped down nice and tight. I treated the barge to a bottle of injector cleaner ahead of a trip down to the south coast to visit my in-laws. I don't have any obvious fuelling issues, and I'm never quite sure how I feel about additives on the snake-oil scale but it can't hurt to find out at this mileage...
Curiously, the roof box has made no obvious impact to the MPG and there's no noticeable increase in wind noise. The same box and design of bar on our Mini was really noisy, I guess it must be down to the difference between roof and rail mounting brackets. The Volvo cabin does a better job of isolating you from the outside world too. It's now done over 500 miles since the boost issue without drama.
Having said I wouldn't rush to do anything about the failed air quality sensor my need to research stuff got the better of me. The Russians have worked out that the Volvo part (31250491) is interchangeable with a cheaper and more ubiquitous VW part (1K0907659). Some further research suggested that part had been replaced by a newer VW part (5K0907659). I found one in a UK breaker from a 2018 Alhambra for £23 delivered.Access requires the glove box to be removed, half a dozen screws and it slid out easily...
The sensor is a fiddle to remove as it's tucked up high and close to the firewall. I could have done with a smaller pair of hands.
New and old. The newer variants of these sensors are a bit curvier in shape, but identical where it matters.
Everything refitted, code cleared and it doesn't seem to be returning.
The car also got a trinket from the amusingly named Swedish Boost Mafia - https://swedishboostmafia.com
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guitarcarfanatic
1,940 posts
156 months
[report] [news]Thursday 26th May 2022 So I have tried the Jag disc in the Volvo and it works great. I didn't notice it doing a firmware update though? I was in the boot with the car on through so maybe it did. I still seem to have POI's which is weird...Edited to add - I did have the seat belt recall done last year at Volvo which involved it being plugged in - maybe they updated firmware then? Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Thursday 26th May 2022 Glad it worked for you. There's a screen in the settings which shows you which version you're running, you could compare it to mine. Maybe your car has run some more recent discs at some point? I think for a while Volvo used to post them out to owners for free - my car had the paperwork for that scheme in the glovebox but it looks like the original owner never bothered.Weird that your POIs still work but mine don't! Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Friday 3rd June 2022 Uh-oh, the barge is broken...I was accelerating up a hill when it seemed to lose boost and threw a CEL. I limped to our destination and parked it up for four hours. On return, the CEL was still present but power was back to normal for the first couple of miles, it then sputtered back to it's boost-less state for the rest of the 30 miles journey home. It was an interesting challenge trying to build momentum ahead of hills.Back at home, I found two codes...ECM-P00BD00 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range/Performance - Air Flow Too High. General Failure Information. No sub type information.ECM-P029900 Turbocharger/Supercharger A Underboost Condition. General Failure Information. No sub type information.I was hoping that the lack of boost might be due to the computer cutting it once it entered some sort of limp mode, but with it briefly returning whilst the code was still active that seemed less likely.I cleaned the MAF last night, I'm not really expecting that to be the cause but it's a simple one to rule out.I inspected the hoses to and from the intercooler, I can't see any obvious tears. There's another hose under the engine that I haven't been able to check yet. The intercooler itself looks dry and intact. I've nipped up a few jubilee clips on the intake, but nothing was obviously loose.From some Googling last night it would appear that the most likely culprit is the hose between the throttle body and the intercooler. I think mine might have been repaired before as it's got a couple of extra clips and a rigid section in the middle that doesn't look OE. I can't see anything obviously wrong with it, but I'll remove it for a better look when I get chance. The intake manifolds also seem somewhat prone to cracking, that's a bigger and more expensive job that I'd like to avoid. I might try and make a smoke machine to rule that one out. I also found one report of the same codes being thrown by a clogged fuel filter, I swapped the filter only 4000 miles ago, so that seems unlikely, but it would be an easy/cheap part to rule out.Hmm... Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Friday 3rd June 2022 Cleaning the MAF made no real difference, I had boost for a few minutes but it was soon gone and the underboost error returned. No MAF error this time.I removed the intercooler hoses to inspect them carefully, no holes.I removed the MAP sensor and it’s pretty cruddy, I’ve given it a good clean. Hopefully that’s the problem, although I’m not that confident and it’ll be tomorrow before I have time to reassemble and find out. Davehornby1
5 posts
59 months
[report] [news]Friday 3rd June 2022 From my time in a Volvo dealership, there is one of the intercooler pipes that goes soft and collapses under boost, causing poor performance.Unfortunately I can’t remember which one it is. Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Saturday 4th June 2022 Thanks - from my best Googling the soft hose issue maybe seems to be on earlier D5s.Having not really found anything particularly conclusive on English sites I think I’ve had some luck searching a Russian car blogging site for the part number of the turbo pressure control valve. There are numerous reports with identical symptoms/scenarios and the same underboost error code:https://www.drive2.ru/parts/volvo/31219138/B9bjwEA...Through the power of Google Translate, this all fits…I’m not a big fan of throwing parts at something on the off-chance it fixes it, but feeling semi-confident I’ve ordered a replacement valve. Fingers crossed. TurboRob
357 posts
194 months
[report] [news]Wednesday 8th June 2022 How you getting on with diagnosis/fix? I'd have thought this is where VIDA would come in to it's own, perhaps by offering a test routine for the actuator systems? Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Wednesday 8th June 2022 Good timing, it's fixed! With hindsight, I've made a bit of a hash of getting to this point. In my defense I'm running on the levels of sleep you'd expect with a new child around Let's backtrack and cover what I did after cleaning the MAF. I also removed the MAP sensor which looked pretty grubby...I cleaned it with contact cleaner and some careful scraping with a toothpick.That didn't help. I still had the same P0299 underboost error. The lack of any other errors made me think that I'd maybe cured the original MAF high volume + underboost issue by cleaning the MAF or tightening something. This led me to focus only on the underboost error and to identify the turbo control valve/solenoid as a likely suspect. I ordered a replacement, but due to the long bank holiday weekend, I had a bit of a wait. In the interim, I refitted the hoses from the intercooler that I'd removed to inspect and then extracted the existing TCV from the back of the engine bay. Access is relatively easy, in the scheme of things.I bench-tested it by manually applying 12v to it and blowing air through it, it seemed to be actuating just fine and not leaking. I didn't do a vacuum test but I started to feel less confident in my diagnosis at this point.The replacement was a new-old-stock genuine part - 31219138. It's made by Pierberg, I later discovered that Car Parts in Motion sell the Pierberg branded part (70222100) for only a few pounds more than I paid. I'd probably have ordered that instead if I'd known sooner, this valve dates from 2015 but did appear to be unused.The original vacuum line clamps are single-use. I ordered a set of spring clamps hoping to find a good fit. Typically, 10mm was a bit loose and 9mm a bit too tight to slide over the lumps made by the barbs of the hose outlets. I managed to make the 9mm clamps work with some fiddling.As suspected the new TCV made no difference, as soon as the car passed the point at which the smaller turbo should kick in at around 2,000rpm the underboost code was thrown and the car went back into limp mode.The more I thought about it the more I realised that I should have spent longer troubleshooting the combination of codes that were originally thrown. I should have also read the codes using the Volvo VIDA software rather than the 3rd party VDASH software. I like VDASH as it's a bit quicker to use and it logs all connections and errors into an online portal, which makes it easy to review historic codes once cleared. However, the Volvo software is smart enough to recommend possible solutions based on the combination of multiple errors, this might have pointed me in the right direction sooner.I should have spent longer testing rather than guessing at solutions based on Googling codes, this is a side-effect of not having much free time over the bank holiday to tinker, but it's a good reminder to run through the basics before jumping to conclusions.What my Googling had taught me was that the handful of other people with the same code combination typically seemed to have a crack in the plastic intake manifold. I was back to chasing leaks in the intake system. I ideally needed to do a smoke test. I briefly contemplated buying a smoke tester, but I remembered seeing DIY smoke testers in use online and realised I had everything I needed to make my own lying around the house and garage. This led me to cobble together this contraption...It's a glass jar with a cheap soldering iron glued into the lid. Inside there's enough cotton wool to touch the tip of the soldering iron soaked in baby oil to produce smoke. There's a car tyre valve glued into the lid to allow me to connect an air supply, and a length of tubing to allow the smoke out.I removed the airbox and MAF from the car and connected it to the intake using a glove and a hose clamp...My helper wasn't too impressed by the loss of her oil...It took a while to fill the intake with enough smoke to show anything, I could probably have done with a larger jar and wider tubing. I had to add some hot glue around the top of the soldering iron as it was leaking smoke through the body of the iron. But it eventually worked, after a while I spotted a leak between the inlet manifold and the throttle body...This is undoubtedly my fault. I will have removed that hose clamp whilst removing the EGR to get to the failed thermostat. I'm always a bit cautious when clamping around ageing plastic pipework so I suspect I just didn't tighten it enough. The clamp was now completely loose as the lower portion of the pipe had popped out, there's enough stuff in the way that I missed that during my previous visual inspections.With that pushed back in and clamped down tight the boost is back! I took it for a relatively long test drive and happily never saw limp mode. It might be placebo but the power delivery possibly seems smoother, the clean MAF & MAP can't have hurt.I've spent £55 that I didn't need to spend on the TCV, but after finding plenty of reports of them failing and leaving the car in limp mode I'm happy to treat this as preventative maintenance, it would be an annoyingly simple little part to ruin a long trip. I feel like I've got off lightly as I was expecting to find a crack in the inlet manifold which is a pricey lump of plastic at over £400. alex98uk
253 posts
94 months
[report] [news]Wednesday 8th June 2022 Accelebrate said: There's something so ridiculous about this, I love it. the-norseman
14,950 posts
192 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 Always wanted to smoke test my cars but never had the skill to come up with a rig thats good work! although annoying spending money on a few things at least it was simple in the end! I want to clean the Map sensor on our XC90 soon. Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 alex98uk said: There's something so ridiculous about this, I love it. We'll have to try it on your car sometime. Hopefully, it's free of boost leaks now that you've secured the Symposer delete bung that you fired across Anglesey the-norseman said: Always wanted to smoke test my cars but never had the skill to come up with a rig thats good work! although annoying spending money on a few things at least it was simple in the end! I want to clean the Map sensor on our XC90 soon. Thanks - it looked very Heath Robinson but it did the job, so it's currently my favourite tool. Given how easy access is an occasional MAP clean can't hurt. the-norseman
14,950 posts
192 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 Don't think the Map is in the same place on my engine, it seems to be hidden. Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 To close the loop on something I mentioned in my original post - the intercooler inlet hose hadn't been repaired, on the twin-turbo D5s there's a vacuum line connected to it which accounts for the additional coupler and hose clamps. The line connects in around the back out of sight so it wasn't immediately obvious.I must have been having a weak-wristed day when I did the thermostat. There was a single-use hose clamp that I replaced with a jubilee clip on the EGR exhaust. It carries coolant away from the EGR system. Whilst running the engine trying to diagnose the boost leak I noticed that it was weeping enough coolant to drip onto the engine block and down onto the undertray. I nipped it up a bit and the leak has stopped. That does at least account for the occasional coolant use the car has had since the thermostat was swapped.I've been putting off replacing the gearbox oil as the car has a weeping driveshaft seal on the driver's side. I cleaned it off when I swapped the engine oil a few months ago to see how quickly it came back, the gearbox is quite wet again so I'll prioritise that next. I've ordered the seal and some oil. LunarOne
6,783 posts
158 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 At this rate you're going to end up with a new car! In which case, can I have all the old bits to rebuild the original scruffy XC70 D5? Then I can embark on a renewal project of my own, and someone can have all the old bits to build their own XC70 D5... Perpetual Ship of Theseus!Or this, if you prefer... Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Thursday 9th June 2022 LunarOne said: At this rate you're going to end up with a new car! In which case, can I have all the old bits to rebuild the original scruffy XC70 D5? Then I can embark on a renewal project of my own, and someone can have all the old bits to build their own XC70 D5... Perpetual Ship of Theseus!This is relatively restrained by my usual standards. My brother christened my MX5 as The Mazda of Theseus a few years ago and I think it still had all its original body panels at the time! Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Monday 13th June 2022 I put a couple of hundred motorway miles on the barge over the weekend, with no boost issues, confirmed by reading the codes when I got home. I did have a new code that I haven't seen before for a failed air quality sensor, I'll ignore that one for now.A very small oil seal arrived in the post. Looks like I ordered the seal for the output shaft inside the gearbox bell housing rather than the driveshaft seal. It was suspiciously cheap. The correct seal has hopefully been ordered. I might pre-emptively order some droplinks before tackling the driveshaft removal, the current set look to be in good shape but they rarely seem to come apart cleanly.We've got some longer trips coming up so I've fitted the roofbox for the first time. I didn't buy the box for this car, but to my eyes it suits it... S100HP
13,521 posts
188 months
[report] [news]Monday 13th June 2022 Failed air quality sensor is probably the most common error code on this version of Volvo. The three I've owned all had the same error code. You can't have a faultless car, so just keep that as the only error Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Monday 13th June 2022 S100HP said: Failed air quality sensor is probably the most common error code on this version of Volvo. The three I've owned all had the same error code. You can't have a faultless car, so just keep that as the only error That's not in the spirit of this thread though Looks like it's a £50ish part, fitted by dismantling the glove box. I'll see if the error returns after clearing it. Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Wednesday 15th June 2022 I revisited the new TCV that I'd installed. I wasn't happy with the cheap spring clips I'd purchased from Amazon, they had very little tension and could be easily opened by hand. I ordered some new 10mm clips made by Mikalor, who seem to be known for making decent-quality hose clamps.They're much better, pliers very much required and they've clamped down nice and tight. Accelebrate
Original Poster
5,548 posts
236 months
[report] [news]Monday 20th June 2022 I treated the barge to a bottle of injector cleaner ahead of a trip down to the south coast to visit my in-laws. I don't have any obvious fuelling issues, and I'm never quite sure how I feel about additives on the snake-oil scale but it can't hurt to find out at this mileage...Curiously, the roof box has made no obvious impact to the MPG and there's no noticeable increase in wind noise. The same box and design of bar on our Mini was really noisy, I guess it must be down to the difference between roof and rail mounting brackets. The Volvo cabin does a better job of isolating you from the outside world too. It's now done over 500 miles since the boost issue without drama.Having said I wouldn't rush to do anything about the failed air quality sensor my need to research stuff got the better of me. The Russians have worked out that the Volvo part (31250491) is interchangeable with a cheaper and more ubiquitous VW part (1K0907659). Some further research suggested that part had been replaced by a newer VW part (5K0907659). I found one in a UK breaker from a 2018 Alhambra for £23 delivered.Access requires the glove box to be removed, half a dozen screws and it slid out easily...The sensor is a fiddle to remove as it's tucked up high and close to the firewall. I could have done with a smaller pair of hands.New and old. The newer variants of these sensors are a bit curvier in shape, but identical where it matters.Everything refitted, code cleared and it doesn't seem to be returning.The car also got a trinket from the amusingly named Swedish Boost Mafia - https://swedishboostmafia.com Reply OP Posts Only Prev 12...1314 of 451617...4445 Next OP Posts Only Reply OP Posts Only Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff
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