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Kensho K In the past I have run my C02 for 2 hours before the lights come on and shut off with they go out. Is there a down side to just having the C02 (slower release rate) on 24/7? #1 · Oct 8, 2016 In the past I have run my C02 for 2 hours before the lights come on and shut off with they go out. Is there a down side to just having the C02 (slower release rate) on 24/7? Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Oct 8, 2016 Large pH swings. 2 hours might not be a lot, but over say 8 hours of no light you might be looking at a pretty low pH Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk #3 · Oct 8, 2016 I dont know why you would want to dose the CO2 when the lights are off, since the plants dont use it during cellular respiration which occurs at night. At least I think that is how it works

#4 · Oct 8, 2016 To be more correct, cellular respiration occurs at all times of the day. Photosynthesis only occurs in the presence of light. CO2 is only used during photosynthesis Show more replies 1 Reply #6 · Oct 9, 2016 The most obvious reason for running CO2 24 hours a day is to be able to set the bubble rate and forget it. Another reason is to not have to be concerned about how long it takes to build up the concentration of CO2 in the tank every day. You can run CO2 continuously if the amount you are adding to the water is low enough that the reduced usage of CO2 by the plants at night doesn't raise the amount in the water above what the fish can live with. I'm sure if you use only 10 ppm of CO2 you can run it continuously. And, if you use 40 ppm you can't run it continuously. And, yes, of course it wastes CO2 to run it at night. #8 · Oct 10, 2016 I agree it would waste some C02, but over all my will be more stable. Instead of blasting a high bbl count during lights-on, and zero while they are offs. #9 · Oct 10, 2016 (Edited) there's nothing wrong with it. Shoot for something like 1 bubble / 30 seconds, depending on how large your aquarium is. You'd want it to build up over night to something like 25-30ppm before the lights turn on. No need to go higher than this. I wonder if it's a waste. CO2 24/7 1/30 sec = .033*60*60*24 = 2880 bubble CO2 8 hours 3/sec = 3*60*60*8 = 86400 bubbles just musing #10 · Oct 11, 2016 I know you have done a lot of tinkering with CO2 measuring over the past 2 years or so. Did you ever figure out how fast the CO2 dissolved in an aquarium will last before it drops down well below 10 ppm? Of course it depends on how much you have to start with, so assume you start at 20-30 ppm. I'm asking because what you posted above hints that the depletion will not be so fast that you need to keep adding it at a high rate throughout the photoperiod. Show more replies 0 Reply #12 · Oct 11, 2016 I leave my co2 at 1 bps in my 20L and have for well over a year. I keep a few oxygen-demanding species, including hillstream loaches, and they seem to do fine with the overnight co2. Make sure there's plenty of surface agitation for gas exchange and it should be fine. #14 · Oct 11, 2016

IntotheWRX said: i run 1 bbps on my 10 gal 24/7. mainly because I dont have a way to turn it on and off everyday so i leave it on. everything is fine. but theoretically better to turn off at night. Click to expand...

Do you guys know how much CO2 (ppm) is in your tank before the lights turn on? Show more replies 0 Reply #13 · Oct 11, 2016 i run 1 bbps on my 10 gal 24/7. mainly because I dont have a way to turn it on and off everyday so i leave it on. everything is fine. but theoretically better to turn off at night. #15 · Oct 11, 2016 When you have a medium to largish tank, add a sump, add powerheads, add heat from those pumps and lights, you really run through co2 way faster than you thought you would. Keeping the pH stable 24/7 with a controller isn't really worth it versus keeping it stable with a controller during the photoperiod only. I have noticed no difference, other than racing through co2 when I do not try to conserve it. #22 · Oct 12, 2016 I believe the surface area of my 21x21x21 cube would gas quite a bit of C02. #23 · Oct 13, 2016 From what I've read recently, Co2 is not just for plants. It also sustains the nitrifying bacteria colonies. I've changed mine to stay on all the time. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/2...23-algae/1090265-importance-constant-24-7-co2-nitrifying-bacteria-colonies.html #24 · Oct 13, 2016 Nitrifying bacteria is aerobic I think. They need O2 more than anything. Show more replies 0 Reply #26 · Oct 13, 2016 (Edited) @mrfiock I agree - I am starting with LOW everything (fertz, Light C02) and slowly bring tweak each. I am going to stay away from 'needy' flora and fauna this go round. I'll start 24/7 and see how it goes. #27 · Oct 28, 2016 If a solenoid is used, why would the bubble count have to change? Just use an on/off timer and each morning when it turns on the solenoid opens and whatever count is set is ready to go. At night, the timer releases the solenoid and the CO2 flow stops. I have tried on all the time, on during the day, and controlled by a Milwaukee PH controller. When running 24/7 the PH never drops below 6.4 at night. With the CO2 only on during the day, the PH climbs to 6.9 maybe 7 as the tank degases at night. Just my experience. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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