Cant Remove Alternator Pulley.... - My Turbo Diesel

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Jimigunne J It's a 2006 Jetta. TDI BRM. The alt clutch is bad. I bought the Metalnerd tools to replace it. I can't get it removed, it won't break loose. My 12 point 10mm is on the ratchet and is "locked"---can't rotate any ccw---resting against top wheel well structure. The end of the 12- point tool is firmly engaged on shaft and sure is not slipping. When I push counter clockwise on the 17mm box-end, it will rotate along with pulley and shaft about 2 inches ccw, probably more If I had more strength. I think factory torque is about 60 ft-lbs. Because of this torsion "springy-ness", I don't see how I am ever going overcome that among of torque and break it loose. if I jammed a screwdriver into the internal fan blades, then that would definitely lock the shaft up....and then I could apply the needed torque, but probably the alternator would have internal damage. I know that if I took the alt. out and put the pulley in a vise (completely locking up the shaft and pulley) then I could put a lot more torque on the wrench. But that would involve really tightening the vise to where perhaps the pulley might be damaged. Can't take any chances with that, since maybe I still would not succede in getting pulley replaced--- and then the car would be down instead of just noisy. Any ideas? #1 · Mar 6, 2017 It's a 2006 Jetta. TDI BRM. The alt clutch is bad. I bought the Metalnerd tools to replace it. I can't get it removed, it won't break loose. My 12 point 10mm is on the ratchet and is "locked"---can't rotate any ccw---resting against top wheel well structure. The end of the 12- point tool is firmly engaged on shaft and sure is not slipping. When I push counter clockwise on the 17mm box-end, it will rotate along with pulley and shaft about 2 inches ccw, probably more If I had more strength. I think factory torque is about 60 ft-lbs. Because of this torsion "springy-ness", I don't see how I am ever going overcome that among of torque and break it loose. if I jammed a screwdriver into the internal fan blades, then that would definitely lock the shaft up....and then I could apply the needed torque, but probably the alternator would have internal damage. I know that if I took the alt. out and put the pulley in a vise (completely locking up the shaft and pulley) then I could put a lot more torque on the wrench. But that would involve really tightening the vise to where perhaps the pulley might be damaged. Can't take any chances with that, since maybe I still would not succede in getting pulley replaced--- and then the car would be down instead of just noisy. Any ideas? Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Mar 8, 2017 No ideas but just curious how many miles has it been "noisy"? #3 · Mar 8, 2017 (Edited) Thy are on there very tight. What you do is rest one wrench on the body work like you figured out and use some sort of cheater for the wrench you turn. What I did was took a big combo wrench and slipped the combo end of that wrench over one open end side of the wrench the I'm trying the break loose. this gave me about 2 1/2 feet of leverage and the pulley broke loose easy peasey. Just use slow and careful pressure so you don't slip off and rack you knuckles or round out something. If anything, removing the alternator will make the task a lot harder. #4 · Mar 23, 2017 Just did this. Forget tools from Metalnerd. Mine was too stuck. Use an impact wrench air tool to do this, the toolcan be borrowed from AutoZone for free. OEM Alternator Decoupler Pulley Puller/Installer

Part Number: 27275 Shortest spline bit ,2nd from left bottom row in picture is for impact tool for removing Others to put it back on. First Take off the alternator,which is done easily if you take off the fan pulley and just let it rest in the engine area. This will give you room to unscrew the two 13 inch bolts holding the alternator. Disconnect the ground on battery and Unplug plug and take off wires behind alternator. 1 plug one wire.Easy. The fan needs to be held still around the metal shiny clutch pulley that the serpentine belt turns, and a 8 mm Allen wrench bit inserted and unscrew. Tooluxe 02006L adjustable pin wrench is what I bought on Amazon for $7.50 To hold the fan pulley while I unbolted the 8 mm Allen bolt. No need to put front of car in service position. I actually replaced belt and belt tensioner too. Not too hard with fan out of the way a little. My car sounded like crap rattling for a year, now it purrs like new. I used the impact wrench to put on new pulley though the tool kit has the tools to Put the new pulley on to about 90 lbs torqued. Steering was poor but ok now with new alternator pulley. #5 · Mar 23, 2017 Maybe even a generic gear puller. #6 · Mar 23, 2017 ...or you can just replace the alternator assy...along with tensioner and belt and be done with it. Sometimes the added cost of buying VW only specialty tools "for one time use" makes repairing cost more than replacing. #7 · Mar 24, 2017 Very true. My pulley has been bad for a while but with the original alternator getting ready to turn 260k miles I wonder how much more life is in it. 0 Reply #8 · Mar 24, 2017 Just get a new one I have seen them for under $100, but I had already spent 40 on the pulley and 30 on tool, which is ok because I have 2 2005 Passats tdi 2005, sedan and wagon. Don't hesitate to contact me. If I haven't done it I know which forum has the answer. #9 · Mar 24, 2017 Correct me if I am wrong but can put a new belt on without taking off the AC belt if one has removed the alternator and fan pulley? #10 · Oct 21, 2020 Hey all, just wanted to put my $0.02 cents in here as I just did my alternator pulley on my MK5 TDI. The main thing I experienced was HOLY S$%T that thing was on there tight... Used the correct tools from Princess Auto (here in Canada) and literally had to use a 2ft pipe extension on the spanner to get the torque I needed to break the pulley free, even with soaking the inner spline in penetrating oil all night. My main takeaway points for anyone doing this job are to make sure you are holding the 1/2" drive still which goes in the centre through the spline tool and holds the alternator shaft still. Then rotate the 17mm wrenched on the spline tool counter clockwise towards the back of the car to loosen the pulley. Lefty loosey and all that. And don't be surprised if you have to use a TON of force to break the pulley free. My car only has 160k km and the mating surface between the pulley and alternator was all rusty. THE ALTERNATIVE to the above, is to brace the 17mm spanner in the clockwise direction against the crossmember at the front of the engine bay and have a breaker bar on the inner spline tool going to the alternator shaft and pull the breaker bar towards you. What this will do is rotate the inner alternator shaft clockwise which breaks the pulley loose counter clockwise (if that makes any sense). Basically just the reciprocal of the method above. I basically ruined all the special alternator tools I bought (luckily with princess auto you could buy a tool, use it daily for 20 years, then put it in sea water for another 20 and they would still give you your money back). This was a PITA but I'm glad in the end I just got the Inna pulley and kept the OEM alternator given my low K's. #11 · Nov 17, 2021

dvandoor said: Hey all, just wanted to put my $0.02 cents in here as I just did my alternator pulley on my MK5 TDI. The main thing I experienced was HOLY S$%T that thing was on there tight... Used the correct tools from Princess Auto (here in Canada) and literally had to use a 2ft pipe extension on the spanner to get the torque I needed to break the pulley free, even with soaking the inner spline in penetrating oil all night. My main takeaway points for anyone doing this job are to make sure you are holding the 1/2" drive still which goes in the centre through the spline tool and holds the alternator shaft still. Then rotate the 17mm wrenched on the spline tool counter clockwise towards the back of the car to loosen the pulley. Lefty loosey and all that. And don't be surprised if you have to use a TON of force to break the pulley free. My car only has 160k km and the mating surface between the pulley and alternator was all rusty. THE ALTERNATIVE to the above, is to brace the 17mm spanner in the clockwise direction against the crossmember at the front of the engine bay and have a breaker bar on the inner spline tool going to the alternator shaft and pull the breaker bar towards you. What this will do is rotate the inner alternator shaft clockwise which breaks the pulley loose counter clockwise (if that makes any sense). Basically just the reciprocal of the method above. I basically ruined all the special alternator tools I bought (luckily with princess auto you could buy a tool, use it daily for 20 years, then put it in sea water for another 20 and they would still give you your money back). This was a PITA but I'm glad in the end I just got the Inna pulley and kept the OEM alternator given my low K's. Click to expand...

Hi dvandoor, Is it possible that you could share the part number for the tool you purchased from princess auto? Looking to do this job soon. Thanks! 0 Reply Insert Quotes Post Reply

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