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vdub6v V I tried to rebuild it with a Salvox kit. Leaks bad but ran great LOL What's the best resource to either purchase a remanufactured or have one rebuilt? Image Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk #1 · Jun 20, 2020 I tried to rebuild it with a Salvox kit. Leaks bad but ran great LOL What's the best resource to either purchase a remanufactured or have one rebuilt? Image Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk See less See more Preview image for a collapsed post. 1 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jun 20, 2020 Every rebuild article I’ve seen mentions permatex Indian head shellac, as the sealant on the metal gasket. Personally, I’d take it apart and try again. It’s not that bad of a job. Out of curiosity, what did the kit include, as a gasket? -Todd #3 · Jun 21, 2020 Here's the kit I used. It's like a stainless steel diaphragm, looked identical to the original. https://www.ebay.com/itm/272891302798 Yup, I used a sealant as prescribed. Your comment leads me to believe you've never done this before. It seemed straight forward enough but here I am with leaks! I doubt I can pull the unit apart without wrecking the new diaphragm since it is covered with sealant :( Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk #4 · Jun 21, 2020 No, I’ve done it before, but we’re going back over a decade. When I did it, I’m unsure if kits were available. I went to the auto parts store and went though a bunch of fuel injector seals until I found ones that would work. I also reused my steel shim. Unsure what you used as a sealant, how long you allowed the sealant to set up, etc. -Todd #5 · Jun 21, 2020 I used the specified loctite. Let it sit for weeks before I tried it. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk #6 · Jun 21, 2020 I rebuilt my Volvo CIS distributor with a few mods. I have not hooked it up to calibrate it but if you have to use sealer, then the surfaces were not prepped right. The factory never used sealer [that I know of] so if done right, it does not need it. I honed the surfaces and ended up with a 2k finish. While honing the surface, I noticed there was scratches as I was honing the surfaces but I honed until there were no more. I suspect that you have the same issues. When I finally get to the final assembly, if there is a leak, I will put a small bead of a Loctite product around the steel shim [both sides] to keep the fuel in. I'm suspecting there will not be. Final surface finish. Image #7 · Jun 21, 2020 I recall using a scotch brite to remove either sealant or maybe fuel residue from the mating surfaces. Whatever it was, the steel shim needed to be gently pried off. With your surfaces being that polished, I’m curious if you’ll need the shim. -Todd #8 · Jun 21, 2020 The stainless steel diaphragm regulates the fuel flow to the injectors. It has to be there. #9 · Jun 21, 2020 Thanks Butcher I don't have machine tools to do a proper hone. Im not sure what machine shop would be knowledgeable in reworking these pieces. I coated the entire diaphragm with the specified loctite. Are you only putting a bead around the outer edge? I think I'm just going to send it out for a rebuild. Found several outfits that offer the service, just not sure who is best suited to perform the work. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk #10 · Jun 21, 2020 Over the years I've rebuilt several. Back a very long time ago when CIS was a new system, I attended some Bosch Technical Training programs - including for CIS FI. I still have the training manuals and data books. After you've done it a few times it doesn't seem extremely difficult as Butcher says. But actually it is difficult to get right, especially if you've never done it before or not really sure of what you're doing (no offense to anyone). There are some tricks, and several very essential things that must be done. It is much more than just replacing some seals. And to test and calibrate everything correctly requires a bit of equipment/rig. I really don't recommend it as a DIY project. And leaks like you found will turn your car into a pile of charcoal, plus it won't work correctly before then. The thin plate isn't a gasket and shouldn't require sealant if everything is correct. That's what Butcher is referring to. Definitely do NOT use anything like Indian Head inside it; that will likely lead to damage when trying to open it again. And you will need to open it again because it won't work right. It is possible that yours may have been damaged trying to rebuild it, if it already wasn't before. There is a reason many people hate CIS, and typically it relates to a improper functioning fuel meter unit. #11 · Jun 22, 2020 (Edited) Thanks Dr. Jeff, no offense taking. I'm mechanically competent but as you mentioned, this isn't as straight forward as rooting around a box of o-rings and slapping some sealant on the distributor halves. The car has been sitting since 1996 so I presume it was a stuck plunger. Now it runs, but that whole carbon transformation thing has got me a little worried. With that said, who has experience sending these out for rebuild? I've heard some nightmares but don't recall who it was with. Google says these are my options: $370 (listed on website) http://www.specialtauto.com/node/107 $520 (emailed Larry) http://www.cisflowtech.com/ $615 (estimate based on other pricing) https://www.partsklassik.com/c-58-cis-fuel-injection.aspx $900 (list on website) https://fuelinjectionproducts.com/p...s.com/products/porsche-fuel-distributor-bosch-0438100065-fit-924-2-0l-1977-1982 #12 · Jun 22, 2020 (Edited) I have not confirmed if mine leaks or not. I elected to try this method before I try using any sealer. I'm not opposed to it, but sealer is a bandaid for a bad prep job. I would put a tiny amount of Loctite around the outer edge of the plate if there is a leak [I would have to separate the two halves again]. The clearances on this distributor is very small so a small amount of sealer would spread far. A toothpick is what I would use to spread it around. It would look like I took a pen and drew a small line around the stainless plate. As for honing, I purchased a plate of marble and lots of sheets of wet/dry sand paper. Started with 220 and ending up with 2k. Lots of time moving a hunk of cast iron to finish the surface. Lots of time, not money wasted. #13 · Jun 22, 2020 Butcher thanks for the great input. Since my return to the vortex you have been an excellent resource. Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk #14 · Jun 22, 2020 Regarding where to have the fuel meter rebuilt. I have been involved with Italian cars for many decades and, like VW's, I love the vintage stuff from the 70's - so plenty of CIS there also. A good friend of mine has a large independent Italian vehicle (mostly Ferrari) service facility in SoCal. For years he sent out the CIS distributors to be rebuilt (I don't recall where) and was not happy with the results. I hear the same feedback form my contacts in the Porsche crowd. Seems some of the services offered for these components are not very reliable. And they tend to be very expensive. So my friend decided to learn how to rebuild his own CIS stuff and invest in the related equipment and inventory. Furthermore I've never had any of my own distributors rebuilt by an outside service so I cannot speak for any of the ones you posted links to. I took a look at all three of those web sites. The first one seems to be a decent looking site, but naturally that says NOTHING about the work they do. And their prices are more reasonable. The second site looks very suspicious to me. Almost sounds like a guy in his garage. It could just be a poorly constructed site that does not reflect anything about the shop. But it certainly does not instill any confidence for me. The third one looks reasonable as far as content, but certainly not in terms of pricing. They are EXPENSIVE. I realize none of this really helps you. But the point I wanted to make is it does matter where you have the work done. So do yourself a favor and take the time to do as much research as possible before choosing. Let us know what you find out. #15 · Jun 22, 2020 Thanks Dr. Jeff, great feedback. This is a Porsche, but not a real one, LOL, it is a 924 so it's just a rebadged Audi/VW. I updated the links with price points, from least to greatest. How often have you been able to reuse the diaphragm when you've cleaned out a distributor and changed seals? #16 · Jun 22, 2020 I highly agree first impressions are important but if any of you met me, you would run for the hills. I work on ultra expensive cars and some would freak out. Maybe that is why I pick up and deliver all my clients vehicles. If they drove in, they would keep on driving. It works for me [and my clients] that they do not come into my shop. It's better that they see the results. Kinda like a Butter Face. #17 · Jun 23, 2020 Feel free to send your parts to a shop that specializes in these, but if you search the internet there are plenty of DIYs, about this topic. Are all of these DIYs from Bosch certified shops? I doubt any of them are. Bosch typically never releases this type of info. Last I checked, this was an enthusiast/DIY forum. Should we start replying to all threads with “seek a trained professional”? Calibration into beer bottles, counting turns on the regulators, etc, are the normal procedures. As mentioned, I’ve done this in the past successfully. I’ve also rebuilt the CPRs, resealed and modded countless IDI IPs, resealed TDI IPs, did the mods to run the ALH IP on a 1Z/AHU engine, indexed the press on hub sprocket on the ALH IPs, and guess what....? They all worked and ran fine. I’m not a Bosch certified tech, but based on what’s being stated in this thread, it’d seem nothing I’ve done should work. Let us know where you send your parts. -Todd PS, I also get lightly involved in body work and paint, but since I’m not formally trained, I probably shouldn’t be delving into that area, either. #18 · Jun 23, 2020 I agree with the DIY philosophy. IIRC the official party line for the fuel metering unit is "it can't be rebuilt, get a new one". Same with the IM shaft bearings; official line is if they're worn, get a new block :screwy: I've used the Loctite without leaks so methinks some error was made, wrong Loctite, improper application, etc... How I do it is in here: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...p?8637722-CIS-fuel-distributor-metering-unit-rebuild&highlight=fuel+distributor Insert Quotes Post Reply
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