Commodore VZ Installation Instructions Manual - ManualsLib

× Bookmark added × Added to my manuals

1. Manuals
2. Brands
3. Commodore Manuals
4. Stereo System
5. VZ
6. Installation instructions manual

Commodore VZ Installation Instructions Manual Hide thumbs 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

• page of 18 Go / 18
• Contents
• Table of Contents
• FAQs
• Bookmarks

Table of Contents

• 1 Introduction
• 2 Installation Instructions
• 3 Getting on with It
• 4 The Buffer (Output) Board
• 5 Auxiliary Input PCB
• 6 Finalising the Work to the Head Unit
• Frequently Asked Questions (2)
• Download this manual

Page 1 VY-VZ Commodore Blaupunkt audio system Low-level output conversion / Auxiliary Input

Installation Instructions

Introduction:

The procedures outlined in this document are intended as a guide to assist in the installation and modification to allow buffered line level outputs and/or Auxiliary Input. There are people of many different skill levels out there, and the instructions have been formulated to cater to many different levels. Whilst something may seem mundane and obvious to you, it may not be to everyone. I do encourage reading through the procedure entirely and to clear up any points of uncertainty before commencing. The job entails the mounting of one or two small PCBs (Printed Circuit Board) and attachment of an additional socket inside the head unit, and the cutting of a small slot into the cradle metalwork to facilitate mounting of the pins which mate with the socket. The kit consists of a small PCB containing the buffer components, the additional socket, a lead-out cable assembly terminated with gold RCA sockets and a bullet connector, a guide template to assist with the positioning of the slot which is to be cut into the cradle metalwork, some various internal hook-up wires, nylon standoffs to support the board(s) once installed, and a length of 0.5mm solder. On completion of the modification and re-fitting the unit to the vehicle, there is absolutely no visible evidence of any departure from factory stock – nobody will know until you turn up the volume control. The operation of the internal amplifiers remains unaffected, so if the time comes to move the car onward but you'd rather hold on to the "external" components of your system, the standard connections can be restored to the door speakers, and the unit will continue to function as it always had. The work involved does require some moderate soldering skills, and a generally handy nature with hand tools. Do not underestimate the potential for damage to occur – there are several connections that need to be soldered to the base unit PCB, which is heavily populated with "Surface Mount" components. As a general guide, if you've ever fitted a "mod chip" to a Playstation (or especially a PS2!) you will have little or no trouble with this aspect. Copyright © 2005 - ASR Electronics. All rights reserved. Previous Page Next Page

• 1
• 2
• 3
• 4
• 5

Table of Contents

Frequently Asked Questions (2)

• What types of audio inputs does the Commodore VZ Stereo System have?

  The Commodore VZ Stereo System can be modified to have an Auxiliary Input via a 3.5mm socket and activation switch. This modification also allows for buffered line level outputs.

  For more information, see pages 1, 6 and 15 of the manual. Read more Was this helpful? Yes No
• Can I connect an MP3 player to the Commodore VZ Stereo System?

  Yes, you can connect an MP3 player to the Commodore VZ Stereo System by installing an Auxiliary Input via a 3.5mm socket.

  Read more Was this helpful? Yes No

Need help?

Do you have a question about the VZ and is the answer not in the manual?

Ask a question

Summary of Contents for Commodore VZ

• Page 1: Installation Instructions

  Page 1 VY-VZ Commodore Blaupunkt audio system Low-level output conversion / Auxiliary Input Installation Instructions Introduction: The procedures outlined in this document are intended as a guide to assist in the installation and modification to allow buffered line level outputs and/or Auxiliary Input. There are people of many different skill levels out there, and the instructions have been formulated to cater to many different levels.
• Page 2 Page 2 The writer assumes no responsibility whatsoever for any damage of any kind suffered as a result of attempting this modification. Also be aware that any sub-assembly that has been modified will no longer be covered by the manufacturers warranty. If this modification is done without taking the proper care, any resultant damage –...
• Page 3 Page 3 the front, with a few extra centimetres (the holes are drilled from the back of the cradle’s rear panel), and wide enough to provide stable support for the cradle. Solder Wick (de-soldering braid) – Braided copper strands a few mm wide used to absorb excess solder during rework.
• Page 4 Page 4 Getting on with it: OK, enough of the preamble - Let’s make a start. The very first thing to be done is to remove the head unit. Grab your “special extraction tools” and head out to the car. Insert the wires into the holes on either side of the front panel making sure the notches face toward each other.
• Page 5 Page 5 The following step is only required in the case of single disc player versions. If you have the six- stack unit, skip to the next section. Single disc player units vary slightly in the stripdown procedure. Begin by removing the top cover of the unit –...
• Page 6 Page 6 The photo on the left shows the locking connector used for the six-stack CD player connection. (with the ribbon cable removed) The brown coloured part of this connector slides left or right to locked/unlocked positions respectively. Move this to the unlocked position before withdrawing the cable, and make certain it’s in the fully unlocked position when reconnecting the ribbon cable during reassembly.
• Page 7 Page 7 have a close look at the “step“ on top, there’s a small raised section a couple of millimetres wide – make sure the socket isn’t sitting up on that, but is pushed back against the edge of that step. Apply an appropriately sized fold-back paper clip to clamp the arrangement together, and check the side and back alignment again making sure that the...
• Page 8 Page 8 NOTE: Just about all the electrical connectors have a release tab on them. DON’T just yank on the wires, you need to press the lock tab before the connector will pull out. Once the electricals are unhooked, the centre panel can be lifted clear of the console.
• Page 9 Page 9 Now remove the two screws holding the tabs on the cradle metalwork at the bottom, and a single screw from the bottom centre of the back of the cradle. (Don’t remove the single screw in the centre at the front, that’s holding the storage bin underneath.) The next part is a bit tricky –...
• Page 10 Page 10 Now is a perfect time to cut off the “ears” on the top of the harness connector. They seem to serve no useful purpose, and in fact get in the way of the pin assembly you’re going to mount there. Cut them off flush with the top of the connector with sidecutters or a trimmer knife –...
• Page 11 Page 11 At this point take the pin/lead-out cable assembly and make certain that the pins fit through the slot with a little clearance all around. Don’t drill the holes for the mounting screws yet though, that comes later. The time has come now to turn our attention back to the head unit. Before actually mounting anything, it’s a good idea to prepare the points on the PCB in the base unit we are going to connect to.
• Page 12 Page 12 The method I’ve found easiest for the connection of the input wires is as follows. Strip and dress one end of the hookup wires (ie. twist the strands together) and I recommend lightly tinning these wires so the strands don’t fray out. Insert these ends through the corresponding vias and solder them into the base PCB.
• Page 13 Page 13 A blob of fresh hot-melt glue can now be applied to the tops of the standoffs and the buffer board set in place. The connector pins have also been partially inserted in the photo. At this point if you’re not installing the Aux Input switching board as well, skip over the next section and proceed to the following one.
• Page 14 Page 14 straighten the lead before removing the component from the board. Solder the white hookup wire to C1529 “+”, and the grey wire to C1529 “-”. The red hookup wire goes to C1528 “+”, and the orange to C1528 “-”. If the installation is input only, you’ll also need to connect the Constant +12V and the Standby wire.
• Page 15 Page 15 We also need to mount the 3.5mm socket and activation switch somewhere. You’ll notice that these items attach to a short length of cable with a 5 pin connector – this has been done such that the trim item where the socket and switch are mounted can be removed from the car without being tied to the Aux In cable attached to the back of the cradle.
• Page 16 Page 16 Finalising the work to the head unit: OK, at this point the PCB(s) should be mounted in the base unit with hot-melt, and all the connections between the base unit PCB and the modification PCB should be done, we now need to insert the socket pins into the receptacle we epoxied to the original connector block.
• Page 17 Page 17 Normally I encourage people to run some tests before reassembling these kind of things, but unfortunately we’re not in a position to be able to in this case. What we can do instead is to double – and even triple – check all our work.
• Page 18 Page 18 Now remove the pins from the socket, and take the head unit back out of the cradle. Drill the holes through the rear panel of the cradle to 2.5mm, and match the holes in the pin PCB also. De-burr these holes and fit the lead-out assembly to the cradle with the supplied 2.5mm screws.

This manual is also suitable for:

Vy-vz

Table of Contents

Print

Print page 1 Print document (18 pages)

Rename the bookmark

Cancel

Delete bookmark?

Cancel Delete

Delete from my manuals?

Cancel Delete

Login

Sign In OR Sign in with Facebook Sign in with Google Don't have an account? Sign up! Restore password

Upload manual

Upload from disk Upload from URL Thank you for your help!