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Iamkingnix Hello group, this will be my first post to the forum so please be gentle lol. So just for some back story, purchased a used 2002 ML320 about a year ago and at that time had around 136,000 miles. No issues until about 4mo ago when we had to patch a crack in the exhaust pipe system. Eventually I had to patch both sides, which apparently was done before cause the cracks developed where they tried to wield it on. Fast forward a few months, no issues then out the blue I get a dashboard full of lights. Pulled over, turned car off and back on and was back on the road. Then i noticed it would only shutdown or go “limp” when the car got to a certain temperature. So early mornings when it’s cold out I will literally have to wait for the car engine temperature to get to around between the 40-60 mark on the temperature gauge before it will go “limp” then turn off and start back up. As of today it still will do that plus now when the temperature gets to around the 80 mark will go “limp” again. So finally went to the mechanic and he prints out 3 sheets worth of codes which to my knowledge never knew about. But he said that the only code that mattered was the code that was current which was P2001 which said ETC CONTROL UNIT (N15/3) IS FAULTY. He warned me saying that it is a common problem with this vechilce and suggested to start looking for a new car. So I started researching and found this great forum and read several different reasons and/or soulutions for the issue but not one related to engine temperature and the ETC module. So I have to ask my if any would know if that is a symptom of the module and not reading properly or something different? Was thinking of switching out the thermostat just to see if that could be the problem? I also took the ETC to check for any fluid or liquid in the casing since I read that sometimes fluid can wick up the wire and into the casing but was clean on inspection. Nothing noticeable that I could see. Was going to purchase a unit off of eBay and just try and plug and play and see what happens. I also read somewhere that even after switching the unit that sometimes it won’t work unless the EIS fuse is pulled before trying to start the car. Just trying to make sure I am reading and interpreting the information correctly. If anyone has any suggestions or comments please feel free to comment. Thanks for the help in advance. #1 · Jan 15, 2021 (Edited) Hello group, this will be my first post to the forum so please be gentle lol. So just for some back story, purchased a used 2002 ML320 about a year ago and at that time had around 136,000 miles. No issues until about 4mo ago when we had to patch a crack in the exhaust pipe system. Eventually I had to patch both sides, which apparently was done before cause the cracks developed where they tried to wield it on. Fast forward a few months, no issues then out the blue I get a dashboard full of lights. Pulled over, turned car off and back on and was back on the road. Then i noticed it would only shutdown or go “limp” when the car got to a certain temperature. So early mornings when it’s cold out I will literally have to wait for the car engine temperature to get to around between the 40-60 mark on the temperature gauge before it will go “limp” then turn off and start back up. As of today it still will do that plus now when the temperature gets to around the 80 mark will go “limp” again. So finally went to the mechanic and he prints out 3 sheets worth of codes which to my knowledge never knew about. But he said that the only code that mattered was the code that was current which was P2001 which said ETC CONTROL UNIT (N15/3) IS FAULTY. He warned me saying that it is a common problem with this vechilce and suggested to start looking for a new car. So I started researching and found this great forum and read several different reasons and/or soulutions for the issue but not one related to engine temperature and the ETC module. So I have to ask my if any would know if that is a symptom of the module and not reading properly or something different? Was thinking of switching out the thermostat just to see if that could be the problem? I also took the ETC to check for any fluid or liquid in the casing since I read that sometimes fluid can wick up the wire and into the casing but was clean on inspection. Nothing noticeable that I could see. Was going to purchase a unit off of eBay and just try and plug and play and see what happens. I also read somewhere that even after switching the unit that sometimes it won’t work unless the EIS fuse is pulled before trying to start the car. Just trying to make sure I am reading and interpreting the information correctly. If anyone has any suggestions or comments please feel free to comment. Thanks for the help in advance. See less See more 4 Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Jan 15, 2021 Did you inspect and replace the 13 pin connector, and O-ring that comes with this, that plugs into the transmission, or just inspect the wires? This is a common failure that causes the fluid to be available to wick up the wires. I would reset all codes in all modules and start with the first error codes that pop up. #5 · Jan 17, 2021 I actually did check and change that first, as I read that it usually fixes the problem. Definitely needed to be changed but it did not help with the limp mode action I am experiencing as well as resetting the codes 0 Reply #3 · Jan 15, 2021 Welcome to BW Iamkingnix, Good to have you as a new member. That's alot of saved codes. Always, scan as used car before even looking thru it. If the seller isnt happy to oblidge you, walk away, Not worth the headaches. Ditto camobob. I would also humbly suggest get yourself a decent scanner for personal use. You are going to need it with a w163. Hopefully, the saved codes (to start with) dont come back after erasing them. The mention of the suv dying at higher temps, and then reviving after its cooler, also points the CPS. May not be related to the other issues. Try using the 'community search' at the top of the page as you get started in more investigation of your codes.

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www.benzworld.org Im not liking the C codes I see. #4 · Jan 16, 2021 Forget thermostat. Get your own scanner. Check 13 pin connector, erase all codes. Transmission needs input from wheel speeds for gear ratio monitoring. Used ETC must be from same vehicle. #6 · Jan 19, 2021 The good news is that the car still runs, and then fails. So stick with the simple things that are inexpensive before jumping into modules. A bad sensor can start a series of error codes, as these modules talk to each other about what values are expected. Keep the changes to one thing at a time. I vote with Khomer2, as the CPS to be looked at, since they fail with this kind of mileage. Every w163 that I have owned has had crankshaft position sensor replaced. It is inexpensive ($30 for a Bosch). I think this would be next and report back as to if the failure still occurs, after clearing codes. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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