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I'm interested in getting an auto and it'll most likely be one of these movements. I realize they are sister companies. I realize they have the same bph. Does one have stronger resistance to positional variance than the other? Is one more or less reliable? More or less accurate overall? Thanks in advance all. I am a quartz guy reaching out of my comfort zone here. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk #1 · Dec 23, 2019 I'm interested in getting an auto and it'll most likely be one of these movements. I realize they are sister companies. I realize they have the same bph. Does one have stronger resistance to positional variance than the other? Is one more or less reliable? More or less accurate overall? Thanks in advance all. I am a quartz guy reaching out of my comfort zone here. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Dec 23, 2019 Tough question, I would think similar performance. But, it is tough as Orient movements are not as well documented as Seiko. #3 · Dec 24, 2019 What follows is strictly my own experience and personal opinion. Undoubtedly many will disagree. I have both, in an Orient Mako II and an SRP775. I haven't noticed a dramatic difference between them in terms of accuracy, or of positional variance. Then again, I haven't really paid that much attention. I don't really care. The thing to realize is that both of them are going to be less accurate than your quartz watches. Accuracy is a terrible reason to buy a mechanical, because they simply can't match the average $15 Casio. And if you're like most WISes, you're going to be switching things up regularly. When mine go into the watch box at the end of the day, neither has gained or lost enough to make me late for anything, and the next time I wear them, days or weeks later, I'm going to have to set the time and date all over again anyway. My advice is to buy what you like the best and not worry about the rest. As always, your mileage may vary. #4 · Dec 24, 2019 That's just it. I'm not overly concerned with accuracy since I got my new job. I don't need perfect time anymore. So if a watch is of by say 10spd, I can easily live with that. I'm wanting a couple of fun mechanicals to just switch things up. Although IMHO swiss is overpriced all around, and they can keep it. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 1 Reply #5 · Dec 24, 2019 I have watches with all three types of movement you quote and really I can't see much difference between any of them, but then like a lot of other people around here, I rarely wear a watch for more than a day at a stretch. So it comes out, gets wound or shaken a bit to get it running, I then set the Date/Day/Time and wear it. Normally during the day the time is way accurate enough so then at the end of the day the watch is put away again. So for me then, the accuracy of my automatic watches is not a great issue. Certainly as long as it is within +/- 15 secs a day, as a rule I would not bother to try and regulate it. Perversely, I do like my quartz watches to be very accurate, which fortunately most are, but whilst I want a mechanical watch to be at least within a minute or two of the right time, I don't get bothered more than that. But still if you want accuracy, then an automatic is really not the way to go, a standard quartz movement is going to be more accurate day to day than even the most expensive automatic. But with a quartz, you don't get the magic of that wonderful mechanical device running on your wrist, which is probably something that only a WIS will understand or appreciate! Very best regards, Jim #6 · Dec 24, 2019 I own watches w/ both movements F6922 (Ray II) and the NH35 (Helm Komodo). A comparison of accuracy, coin-flip, either will lose or gain time within specs. The one big difference between the NH35 and the F69, you can buy a NH35 in many microbrands and Seiko. You only get the F69 in an Orient, so it has a bit of exclusivity. #7 · Dec 24, 2019 So far Ixm being told that all 3 are roughly equivalent. That's a good thing for me then! The reason that I am asking is vecause I am after an auto diver, but unlike before, I am doing all of my homework before I am ready to buy. For the Orient divers the only one that appeals to me is the Kano with the black dial and red bezel. I dislike the bezels and crowns on the Ray II/ Mako II/ Kamasu. As for Seiko, I am warming to the Turtles. I like the Samurai quite a bit. But, Deep Blue uses Seiko movements, with sapphire, and in many cases ceramic bezels. The only place where Seiko outpaces is in lume. Which isn't a huge deal for me. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk #8 · Dec 24, 2019 FWIW, Orient rates the F6922 to -15/+25 spd, tighter tolerances than the -35/+45 spd that Seiko rates their 4R36 to. This excerpt from a Seiko technical guide gives more detail on the 4R35/36 movement, though I haven't been able to find an equivalently detailed document for the Orient F6922 movement.

#9 · Jan 29, 2020 I have both, Ray II and Cadisen, and I have been analyzing them in the past two weeks and here is my finding: In term of accuracy under normal usage (worn and resting in dial up position), both are just as accurate. I have regulated both watches and using WatchCheck to check for accuracy. F6922 average rate for a week is +1.7 spd (+2.1 spd in dial up and +1.0 spd while worn). NH36A average rate for two weeks is -1.8 spd (-2.3 spd in dial up and -0.5 spd while worn). Power reserve are exactly the same at 45.5 hours. But F6922 is better in the following regard: More stable under extreme movement. I wore both watches on my left and right arm and doing shadow boxing and 'rapidly beating the drum' for a few minutes. F6922 gained 2 seconds while NH36A increased by 4 seconds. During power reserve test, both watches resting in dial up position, F6922 average rate is +1 spd when it stops completely. At 42 hours mark it was still stable at -1.1 spd rate and only slowing down moderately at the last hour of 45 hours PR at -16 spd. NH36A average rate is -16.6 spd, slow down moderately to -17 spd at 37 hours mark, and slow down significantly to -138 spd during the last 30 minutes before stopping. Overall my Ray II is a little bit better in term of accuracy, but then again my Cadisen is only one third of the price

#10 · Jan 29, 2020 Thank you for the info. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 1 Reply #11 · Jan 29, 2020 I have one F6922 and a bazillion NH35s. The NH35s are all rock solid. The F6922 is all over the place. I have regulated it to be accurate on the wrist but it is nonsensical on the timegrapher. But it's a small sample and I'm sure most are fine. What IS an issue is that if I had an NH35 acting like that, I could simply replace it for $30. And while I was at it I could change the handset to anything I liked. Whereas I can't source a F6922 cheaply from anywhere (guess I'd looking to Orient themselves, or Cousins) and I've no idea what hands fit it. So I do have a preference for NH35 but it's because of service-ability and mod-ability, more than the average performance of a well-functioning example. #12 · Jan 29, 2020 I have both, and really don't see much of a difference in performance. I really love my orient, and the lume is fantastic, as well. I didn't care for the bezel or insert, so had those modded. I absolutely love my Samurai--one of my favorite watches. The turtle is excellent, as well, although I'm going to sell it, as I'm trying to reduce my collection. Bottom line, get the watch that excites you the most. You can't go wrong, either way.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk #13 · Apr 2, 2020 I have a very basic comparison for claimed vs actual power reserve , and very basic measurement of daily deviation

Watch	Movement	Stated power reserve	Start Date	End Date	Running time	Spare running time	Percentage	Daily deviation
Orient Bambino	calibre F6724	40:00:00	3/29/2020 20:37	3/31/2020 18:33	45:56:00	5:56:00	14.83333333	11.4
Stowa Flieger Klassik homage	Seiko NH36	41:00:00	3/29/2020 20:50	3/31/2020 17:54	45:04:00	4:04:00	9.918699187	8.5

#14 · Apr 2, 2020 Stowa Flieger Klassik with a Seiko NH36? Is that something new, because the listing on Stowa's website indicates an ETA 2824-2. #15 · Apr 2, 2020 On paper they are quite similar. I don't think either is necessarily 'better' than the other (I have both). Both simple workhorse movements from reliable Japanese brands that will probably last over a decade without a service. In terms of practicality, though, NH35 is more ubiquitous. Watchmakers will know it better, spare parts or loose movements will be easier & cheaper to come by. So in that sense, an NH35 watch can be 'fixed' more cheaply, whereas an Orient with F6922 is more disposable if it wears down. #16 · Apr 2, 2020 Rotor noise is louder on the Orient, as is hand winding, which also feels rougher. Otherwise they are pretty much functionally identical. All movements are going to vary wildly toward the tail end of their power reserve, and they won't run that low while wearing them. #19 · Apr 3, 2020 I don't hear the rotor in the Ray II, but do hear it quite loudly in my 36mm Bambino. I don't mind, but I know some really don't like rotor sounds. 0 Reply #17 · Apr 2, 2020 I want to say that my Orient movements looked cleaner on the timegrapher than my Seikos, but it's been a long time. I'll try to remember to throw them on there again. #18 · Apr 2, 2020 I have a Deep Blue with an NH36 movement. It was my first auto and I am impressed. Not terribly accurate day to day but it is good enough for me. I like the sapphire crystal as well. Has withstood my abuse Insert Quotes Post Reply

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