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metcalfr M Hi all, I did a search and found a little about this issue. I have a 2000 Jetta with VR6. I have been having issues with the immobilizer going off. I didn't realize that I have had the same on going issue for a year. This is usually my summer vehicle and it was doing the same thing at the end of the summer as it is doing now. It will start and run. As long as the RPM doesn't go below 1k it will still run. I had the dealership reset the immobilizer a week ago and now the issue is back and the vehicle is at the dealership again. They have told me that the code coming up is the immobilizer and they want to try a new key, as I only have one and they will recode it. If that doesn't work then I will need an ECU. I sure as hell can't afford a new one. I am unsure what would have to be done if I got a used one. I haven't looked at the serial number on mine. Has anyone had their immobilizer bypassed in their ECU? Were you able to use all of your cut keys after. On ebay there is a company that is doing a bypass. Their name is Immospec. They are in Fountain CO. Any help is appreciated. #1 · Sep 6, 2018 Hi all, I did a search and found a little about this issue. I have a 2000 Jetta with VR6. I have been having issues with the immobilizer going off. I didn't realize that I have had the same on going issue for a year. This is usually my summer vehicle and it was doing the same thing at the end of the summer as it is doing now. It will start and run. As long as the RPM doesn't go below 1k it will still run. I had the dealership reset the immobilizer a week ago and now the issue is back and the vehicle is at the dealership again. They have told me that the code coming up is the immobilizer and they want to try a new key, as I only have one and they will recode it. If that doesn't work then I will need an ECU. I sure as hell can't afford a new one. I am unsure what would have to be done if I got a used one. I haven't looked at the serial number on mine. Has anyone had their immobilizer bypassed in their ECU? Were you able to use all of your cut keys after. On ebay there is a company that is doing a bypass. Their name is Immospec. They are in Fountain CO. Any help is appreciated. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Sep 6, 2018 I would get the car scanned yourself and see what's coming up. Do you get the immobilizer light? The immobilizer should cut the car off after a few seconds, no matter the RPM so I wonder if there isn't something else going on. #4 · Sep 11, 2018

Rockerchick said: I would get the car scanned yourself and see what's coming up. Click to expand...

Rockerchick said: The immobilizer should cut the car off after a few seconds, no matter the RPM so I wonder if there isn't something else going on. Click to expand...

By "dealership" do you mean Pepboys, or are you actualy talking about Volkswagen? Volkswagen should know better, Pepboys, not so much... What your describing is not an immobiliser issue. Or not just an immobiliser issue.

Rockerchick said: Do you get the immobilizer light? Click to expand...

If no light, unlikely an immobiliser. Now you might still need an ECU. But I don't see failures very often in them. Yes if your havign immobiliser problems, you can ship the ECU out to a place like that on eBay and they will recode it and delete that from the ECU's code. The way the immobiliser works is pretty cool. It is in the instrument cluster actualy. It talks to the ECU, and the ignition switch module. If all three don't have matching codes, it shuts down after three seconds. When you put the key in the lock, it checks the key (I don't think it actualy starts even with an unchipped or bad key, but dont quote me on that point) and starts. Then vefifies the modules are all correct. If so, the instrument cluster sends a pass signal to the ECU and the ECU keeps chugging away. If the ECU doesn't receive this signal, it turns off in three seconds. The need for the ECU to see that signal, is what they code and delete out when you get an immobiliser delete. Oh and to get into the instrument cluster to tell it a module has been replaced, requires a SKC, or Security Key COde that VW makes almost impossible to get. The older cars came with a little black plastic tag that had the SKC on it. VW used to give this key out too if you asked nicely Now even the techs there don't have access to the code, the car gets hooked up to Germany via satalite. So don't change your ignition switch. Or ECU, or instrument cluster, LOL! Yes holding the battery cable ends together clears the memory and codes. I guess it would clear an immobiliser issue code too, not sure. 0 Reply #3 · Sep 10, 2018 Still haven't got my car back. If my immobilizer goes off again can I not just disconnect the battery and touch the battery cables together to clear the code? This might be total misinformation, but I read it somewhere. #5 · Sep 11, 2018 Here is all the info I have received from scan. Yes immobilizer light is now on. Still waiting for new key. Yes it is at a vw dealership. I also asked them to write down what scanner was used. #11 · Sep 12, 2018 Well the dealership should, hopefully, know what they are doing. But, it is an OLD car in dealership life. Scanner used shouldnt matter too much, they were at least using a proper VW type setup. The BEST thing would be to convince them to give you the SKC. I don't know if they can even see the SKC pin anymore though...

metcalfr said: I should here back in the next day or two if new key does the trick. Still not in yet. If happens again I will send the ecm out for a immobilizer delete. Anyone know of a company they have dealt with before that worked? For a good price? Click to expand...

An immobiliser deleter is $60 on eBay. There is at least one company on ebay selling this service. There are other companies listed in multiple threads here doing it, but they also charge a little bit more. I remeber seeign prices from $99-199. Do yourself a favor, go to the junkyard, get a correct ECU, send THAT off for the delete. My local JY charges likr $30 for an ECU. 0 Reply #6 · Sep 11, 2018 Sorry. For some reason my login with my phone won't allow me to post. Will load with computer in a bit. #7 · Sep 12, 2018 K. Newbie question..... How the hell do I post pics from my computer? #8 · Sep 12, 2018 Screw it. For whatever reason phone and computer wont let me post pics. Two fault codes were found. 2 faults found: 16524 - oxygen (Lambda) sensor B1 S2 P0140 - 35-10 no activity - Intermittent 17978 - Engine start blocked by Immobilizer P1570 - 35-10 intermittent I believe they used the VCDS windows based VAG/VAS emulator running on windows 7 Vcds version 18.2.1.2 x64 #14 · Dec 24, 2023 New to Jetta. I was a certified mechanic for 27 years, but I have alzheimers and Parkinsons on top of CSVD so I've forgotten so so much it's sad. My 2000 vw jetta gls 2.oL mk4 I just bought has a weird obd connector ( it's a purple 16 pin rectangle with tabs coming out each 2 top sides. VAS-5051/2 adapter) I've never seen before. See pic. Is it on all Jetta & how if possible can i change it to trapezoid connecter? or how do you use a scanner & which scanner. I've been going nuts now trying to trace anything down on it. Most pics I see have the trapezoid connector 0 Reply #9 · Sep 12, 2018 fwiw I sometimes get locked out and same code on my gti. Usually when I put key in and immediately turn. Found if I wait a second the issue doesn't appear or goes away. Light even popped on a few weeks ago while driving but had no effect. Key and ignition are replacements coded by a locksmith by previous owner and I lean to blaming those components rather than ECU or cluster. Interested in seeing how your issue resolves. I'll just live with mine. #10 · Sep 12, 2018 I should here back in the next day or two if new key does the trick. Still not in yet. If happens again I will send the ecm out for a immobilizer delete. Anyone know of a company they have dealt with before that worked? For a good price? #12 · Oct 11, 2018 Just an update. Sent off my ECU to reflect tuning in SC and have received it back. I reinstalled the ECU and everything appears to be working normally now. Haven't had a chance to do a good test drive on it, as it has been so bloody cold and wet and unfortunately I need a new heater core. Hopefully this weekend I can test drive a bit more and then on Monday get a heater core installed. It only cost 75$ including return shipping to have immo delete done. I am out 0ver 400 dollars at the dealership with nothing to show for it, aside from a new key that I didn't even need coded d/t the immo delete. #13 · Oct 12, 2018 I am messing around with a couple ECUs for my setup, and not sure that the 2.0 engine will even stay in my car. So I picked up the VagTacho software kit and extra transponder pills. The delete is so much easier... But for the tool and pills I am only out $40, not $400. Pretty messed up that the dealer couldn’t work with you to make it right. $400 is way too much for one key. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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