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1998-2011 New Beetle
1.8 Liter Turbo

awschubert A I recently replaced my Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) from AutoZone. I got a Remanufactured Bosch Cardone Reman/Mass Air Flow Sensor. My problem is when I drive, if I have to come to a stop or press the clutch or shift to netural the rpm's drop well below 1000 for a second, then come back up to about 8500-9000RPM's and on random occasions my beetle will stall. I disconnected the MAF and it ran great but the ESP and EPC lights came on and it was a bit sluggish on hard acceleration so Im assuming that my beetle went into "limp" mode. I plugged the MAF back in and the lights turned off but again with the stalling and idle drop. After my little trouble shoot I have determined that it has to be the MAF. I am wondering if anyone can recommend if I should just put out for the new MAF, if anyone has had issues with this particular brand or if there is a different recommended brand MAF? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! #1 · Nov 24, 2011 I recently replaced my Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) from AutoZone. I got a Remanufactured Bosch Cardone Reman/Mass Air Flow Sensor. My problem is when I drive, if I have to come to a stop or press the clutch or shift to netural the rpm's drop well below 1000 for a second, then come back up to about 8500-9000RPM's and on random occasions my beetle will stall. I disconnected the MAF and it ran great but the ESP and EPC lights came on and it was a bit sluggish on hard acceleration so Im assuming that my beetle went into "limp" mode. I plugged the MAF back in and the lights turned off but again with the stalling and idle drop. After my little trouble shoot I have determined that it has to be the MAF. I am wondering if anyone can recommend if I should just put out for the new MAF, if anyone has had issues with this particular brand or if there is a different recommended brand MAF? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Nov 29, 2011 maf problem I think the computer needs to re-calculate the new maf sensor. You need to reset the computer by unplugging the battery plus cable leave off for a while ie 10 minutes , plug back in. The car will drve different after that untill the computer sets up it's new peramiters for the new maf sensor. Mine did the same thing when I cleaned the maf and throttle body and replaced different plugs. I just ran it a few days like that untill it came back to normal. Good luck man.

#4 · Dec 3, 2011

esse10 said: I think the computer needs to re-calculate the new maf sensor. You need to reset the computer by unplugging the battery plus cable leave off for a while ie 10 minutes , plug back in. The car will drve different after that untill the computer sets up it's new peramiters for the new maf sensor. Mine did the same thing when I cleaned the maf and throttle body and replaced different plugs. I just ran it a few days like that untill it came back to normal. Good luck man. Click to expand...

So do you think that would cause the car to shutter when accelerating and make the CEL flash then turn off after a second? The car stops shuttering after it gets up to speed or I let off the accelerator. 0 Reply #3 · Dec 3, 2011 I ended up getting a new Bosch MAF from BAP Auto, my car doesnt die when I push the clutch or come to a quick stop, but now it seems to shutter when I accelerate on occasion. I also replaced my plugs cuz they looked kinda bad and I wanted to do it since I bought the car cuz who knows when the last owner changed them. Anywho, When accelerating to get to highway speeds it shutters and seems like its missing, and sometimes the check engine light will flash but then turn off. I dont know what it could be. I even checked all of the plugs to make sure they were all ok and they all looked just fine.. Any other ideas? #6 · Dec 3, 2011 What type of spark plugs did you replace the old ones with? Did you check the gap before installing them? Did you make sure the coil packs were seated properly. I cleaned my coil packs and rubber sleaves and used a little Dialectric grease on the boots and the tip of the spark plug. Also make sure the Coil packs are bolted down and the plugs are seated securely. Since you changed the spark plugs they seem to be the first choice to check for proper heat range and gap. 0 Reply #5 · Dec 3, 2011 My guess with the misfires would be coil packs. #8 · Dec 4, 2011 (Edited) Took it to Autozone today and had them run the codes. I had the 2 current codes come up as active: P0304 - Definition: Cylinder 4 misfier condition. P0300 - Definition: Random Cylinder misfire Detected. Then he said i had the current codes "pending": P1225 - Definition: Injector circuit cylinder 1 short to ground P1126 - Definition: Injector circuit cylinder 2 short to ground P1127 - Definition: Injector cirucit cylinder 3 short to ground P1128 - Definition: Injector circuit cylinder 4 short to ground P1176 - Definition: Rear O2s correction limit obtained P1137 - Definition: Long term fuel trim add. fuel B1 system too rich P0102 - Definition: Mass or volume Air flow sensor curcuit low inpuit P1245 - Definition: Tank ventilation valbe short to ground -- One think I do not understand at all is that my car ran perfect until I changed the damned MAF and spark plugs.. now all this crap!!!! Im completely lost as to how this could all happen all at once randomly.... I also bought a new coil pack and replaced it in what I was told was cylinder 4. No dice, still misses when accellerating. also note that I did reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to ensure that it all cleared out of the computer to make sure that i was starting fresh. I did purchase the same plugs that were in there Autolite Platinum. Also the shuddering/misfire is felt under heavy acceleration, after shifting into second and third gear and letting off the clutch completely, if I bring the RPM's up high enough it wont miss or shudder... Show more replies 0 Reply #7 · Dec 3, 2011 My money is on the Spark Plugs. I bet you are running some Autolite or Motorcraft crappy plugs that just don't work. VW's are picky about spark plugs especially the 1.8T engine. I would replace them with a set of OEM NGK's and I bet your troubles will be over. Home Page > Search > PFR6Q > ES#592 Spark Plugs - Set Of Four (#PFR6Q) - PFR6Q4CYL Here is a link of someone complaining about Misfires in his beetle. He replaced MAF and sparkplugs and hat multiple misfires until he swapped out his Autolite plugs for the NGK's. Problem solved. http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?5245345-1.8T-New-Beetle-Misfire #11 · Dec 4, 2011 Here are the spark plugs you should be running. I'd personally go for the NGK's since they are OEM but they are on the expensive side. NGK or Bosch are all I would run in my car. #18 · Dec 4, 2011 I just realized I never posted the link to the plugs :eek:

GermanAutoParts.com If you can get NGKs locally, I'd run those. Insert Quotes Post Reply

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