Major Electrical Issues - 2005 V50 T5 - SwedeSpeed

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GoBigRed G While driving my V50 yesterday many aspects of the electrical system went haywire all at once. The horn started blowing, the high beams flashing on and off, the hazard lights flashing, doors locking and unlocking, etc. This kept up for several blocks until I got the rest of the way home (driving slower, very loudly). Not everything stopped when I shut down the car - the horn kept blowing for another minute and the locks were opening and closing. Lights might have been flashing, too. I was in a rush, so I simply left the car in the driveway and waited to check it today after work. Tonight the battery was completely dead, so I opened the door with the key (Fob wouldn't do anything) and jumped the car with a battery back. It started and ran, but with all of the same electrical crazyness. After I shut it back down unnoticed a faint rapid clicking and the battery quickly drained to nothing again. Very faint smell of electrical burning. Any guesses? Fried computer is mine... hoping for something simpler. #1 · Mar 29, 2017 (Edited) While driving my V50 yesterday many aspects of the electrical system went haywire all at once. The horn started blowing, the high beams flashing on and off, the hazard lights flashing, doors locking and unlocking, etc. This kept up for several blocks until I got the rest of the way home (driving slower, very loudly). Not everything stopped when I shut down the car - the horn kept blowing for another minute and the locks were opening and closing. Lights might have been flashing, too. I was in a rush, so I simply left the car in the driveway and waited to check it today after work. Tonight the battery was completely dead, so I opened the door with the key (Fob wouldn't do anything) and jumped the car with a battery back. It started and ran, but with all of the same electrical crazyness. After I shut it back down unnoticed a faint rapid clicking and the battery quickly drained to nothing again. Very faint smell of electrical burning. Any guesses? Fried computer is mine... hoping for something simpler. Sort by Oldest first Oldest first Newest first Most reactions #2 · Mar 29, 2017 Have you by chance checked the CEM? This is located underneath the passenger side glove box. Might need to take some things in the dash apart but this unit is what controls the high beams, etc. If it went bad it could be sending crazy signals on the CanBUS network causing all of this to go crazy. If you have VIDA you can narrow this down exactly to tell whether or not it's a problem with the computer or just a physical electrical problem itself. Do you have VIDA? I can walk you through a test if so. If not I'd definitely check the CEM Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk #3 · Mar 29, 2017

GoBigRed said: While driving my V50 yesterday many aspects of the electrical system went haywire all at once. The horn started blowing, the high beams flashing on and off, the hazard lights flashing, doors locking and unlocking, etc. This kept up for several blocks until I got the rest of the way home (driving slower, very loudly). Not everything stopped when I shut down the car - the horn kept blowing for another minute and the locks were opening and closing. Lights might have been flashing, too. I was in a rush, so I simply left the car in the driveway and waited to check it today after work. Tonight the battery was completely dead, so I opened the door with the key (Fob wouldn't do anything) and jumped the car with a battery back. It started and ran, but with all of the same electrical crazyness. After I shut it back down unnoticed a faint rapid clicking and the battery quickly drained to nothing again. Very faint smell of electrical burning. Any guesses? Fried computer is mine... hoping for something simpler. Click to expand...

Let's start with the simplest thing first. These cars like to do some crazy stuff on a dead battery, I'd check how it behaves with a known good battery first. After that you can start worrying about more complex issues. #4 · Mar 29, 2017 I'm confident that the battery wasn't dead before this issue appeared, but it certainly is completely dead now. When I can get a jump start I'll be bringing the car over to my mechanic's to have him scan using VIDA. Interesting suggestions about checking the CEM. My mechanic also suggested the ignition switch, which was most recently replaced a couple years ago. Not sure how many electrical issues that single switch could cause, though? #5 · Mar 29, 2017 I don't think the ignition switch could cause your high beams and all to flash along with the horn, etc. I'd still be very interested in checking the CEM as that's what all of those functions lead back to... They're all controlled by the CEM. Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk #6 · Mar 29, 2017 Yeah, could be a short at the CEM. But I agree with the above - first get a new battery and then start to see if the situation replicates. It's unusual to have these sort of issues. At the worst though, contact an old priest and a young priest

#7 · Mar 29, 2017 If you have smoke and burning smell the last thing you want to do is drive the car. I would recommend towing it. #8 · Mar 30, 2017 Is the car named Christine? It sounds possessed. A failing battery can cause strange electrical issues with these cars. Might try disconnecting the battery, charge it with a battery charger, and reconnect. When you reconnect, place the key in position II first, reconnect and then key to position 0. #9 · Mar 30, 2017 Surprised to hear a battery could cause such issues. I'm on my third battery and am confident it wasn't low... but I'll mention to my mechanic. Towed the car to the shop this evening and already pointed him to this thread (hi Pat!). Thanks! 0 Reply #10 · Mar 31, 2017 (Edited) I also had major electrical issues, all related to the additional electrical equipment. Look at CEM (Ford design - called GEM) which is under the dash on the passenger side. There are two relays on the upper side of the CEM. Remove and check the relay R18 - relay comfort functions. Mine was faulty #14 · Apr 3, 2017 how does one go about checking this relay? multimeter, and what's it supposed to read? 0 Reply #11 · Apr 3, 2017 My mechanic discovered that a coolant line was leaking onto my CEM module (for who knows how long?) and likely destroyed the unit. He said it was heavily corroded and recommended replacing rather than trying to salvage it. A new one plus reprogramming is about $1,100. And I need the fix the coolant leak, and replace the battery since the shorted CEM apparently drained it completely and destroyed the battery. Prelim estimate is around $1,800 to fix/replace all that. On a car with 165k miles that Kelly Blue Book values at about $3,000. Gulp. I'll try to get another year out of it, but these are the last repairs for sure. Will check in when I get it back and have it actually running. #12 · Apr 3, 2017 i had dash warning lights flashing upon vigorous movement of the steering wheel (as the weight shifted about), the odd "ABS temporarily disabled" message, and the car even stalled once. I removed the CEM, cleaned all the contacts with contact cleaner and blew it out with my air compressor. It hasn't flashed again. While I was there I changed the cabin filter. (my car is RHD). #13 · Apr 3, 2017 If you dont have ability let someone resolder and clean it... Costs nothing and may fix it... Sure there might be more serious issue due short but give it a try.. #15 · Apr 3, 2017 You can use the multimeter to check for continuity. http://m.wikihow.com/Test-a-Relay?amp=1 Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk #16 · Apr 3, 2017 Ok. So, just check all the pins for continuity? Or is there a particular method to the madness? Show more replies 0 Reply #18 · Apr 3, 2017 6, if i remember correctly. There are 2 relays on the CEM one with 4 and 1 with 6 pins iirc. The top PCB is intensively coated with water sealing lacquer. (the 'high power' one). the one with the fine electronics isn't sealed. Perhaps you can have a specialist have a look at the CEM. Have you tried how the coolant smells? the faint smell can also be the coolant. Perhaps the CEM is still in tact. I would pull it first. Unscrew the two little thumb-screws in the front, pull it slightly forward while tilting it downward. Unplug the top plugs in the back, then the lower ones and then the upper ones on top. The box has a few screws in it, you can take it apart pretty easily, the top is held in place with a few clips, just use a thin metal insert to unhook them. Just take your time. It might be a faulty unit, but it also might have been the water that created the issues, cleaning might help. Don't use a contact spray, use something like rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. it appears you could buy a 2nd hand; (they are fair cheap) #19 · Apr 21, 2017 I had this EXACT same thing happen on my 06 V50! It took the dealer over 3 weeks to figure out. They thought computer too...but it turned out to be a wire chafing problem right under the computer. I did not see the problem, but that's what they told me, and they only charged for some wire splicing/repair, so I assume that's accurate. Dave 06 V50 2.5T 6-spd #20 · May 9, 2017 A hose in my coolant system failed on the cabin side of the firewall and dripped down onto my CEM module for who knows how long. That leak destroyed my CEM, which in turn destroyed my battery, and it took my independent mechanic weeks (of not urgent work) trying to get a new module programmed. Huge pain in the ass, and hugely expensive. Tl;dr it is worth checking coolant lines and pressure testing. Two months ago I started having fluctuating engine temperatures while driving my 2005 V50 with about 160k miles. Discovered that my coolant system was approx 1 gallon low on coolant. Refilled and pressure tested, found no leaks. Turns out there was indeed a slow leak inside the cabin --- no idea what the coolant lines come through the firewall at all, found that surprising --- that was dripping directly onto the CEM. The contacts on the CEM corroded and eventually shorted out. While it was shorted all of the electrical systems were going crazy and couldn't be turned off, which quickly drained my battery to 0. Took about 6 weeks for my mechanic to chip away in off hours at diagnosing, replacing the CEM, and then trying unsuccessfully to program a new CEM. That proved impossible for him as well as for our local Volvo dealer, but the dealer is the only one who can call Volvo for a manual override on programming. Finally got that all done and the dash reassembled yesterday. $1800 later for repairs to the coolant lines, a new battery, a new CEM, software, and a fair bit of labor. Ugh! #21 · May 10, 2017 I had a water ingress issue in the cabin that began affecting electronic items. I assumed the CEM had got wet and wasn't liking life. Because the CEM runs the immobilizer show, it is necessary to program it to the car, etc. Luckily I got the car dried out and everything seems to be ok for now. In my research I found the cheapest method for CEM replacement was to source a matching used CEM from a junkyard (numbers must match) and then send to a programming service who will "clone" your old CEM onto the donor for about $75. They claim they can usually do this even when the CEM is water damaged. I figured it might be worth it to pick up a used CEM for cheap when I can and get a clone made so it's not an emergency should I ever have CEM troubles. Also would be a good diagnostic piece - try the spare! Insert Quotes Post Reply

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